HomeMy WebLinkAbout04010036 Building PlansTOP OF RIDGE
P130%
(P_ RIDGE b'-6"
:RI -Ail
TOP OF RIDGE
24' WIDE GAMBREL ROOF GARAr.,F_Q,�.+
N
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v ✓
I
I
-
(2) 2x12 SUPPORT RIDGEBEAM
_-
'
IxlO LEDGER BOARD
x10 LEDGER
® FRONT OVERHANG
---
BOARD O
_
2xb RAFTERS
BEGIN STUD
' TOP OF PLATES
12 (2) 2x10 HEADER AT
- m
®Ib" O.G.
SPACING ®Ib"
HANGER
LADDER OPENING
TOP OF PLATES
IxIO LEDGER BOARD
O.G. FROM
b'
nil2xb
®48" O.G.
2l
THI5 CORNER —
(2) 2xb HEADER
WALL OF
ABOVE PLATES
• p
OPTIONAL DORMER
2xb WALL TIES
® CARGO DOOR
®48" O.G.
O.G. ®
b"
_011 2'-b"3
DORMER OPTION)
3._b..
3/4" T46 PLYWOOD
q' -b"
4X4 POSTS
CARGO DOOR
b O" ¢ -
••
�
SUBFLOOR
LAP FLOOR JOISTS
BOLT TO HEADER
O
G. .
TOP OF 5UBFLOOR
AT BEAM
2x4
BEARING PLATE
2x4 HANDRAIL AND
OPTIONAL DOR
�
-
TOP OF PLATES
�
TOP OF SUBFLOOR
INTERMEDIATE RAIL
'
2x10 FLOOR JOISTS
® Ib" O.G.
BEAM -REFER TO
TOP OF 50FLOOR
Ixb RAKE BOARD
M
i
Q
5'-O"
FOUNDATION PLAN
z
SOLID BLOCKING
TOP OF PLATES
R.O.
FOR 51ZE
-
*
O J I
A T JOIST OVERLAP
O
2x10 FLOOR JOISTS
SOLID BLOCKING
3" DIA. STEEL
m
2xIO TREADS
"Z" FLASHING
\
_
AT JOI5T OVERLAP
PIPE COLUMN
�
'
NOTE: AT SLAB
2x4 STUDS ®Ib O.G.
(2) 2x12 HEADER 2
() 2x12 HEADER
•�
FOUNDATION ALL
`�
PRECUT STUDS
'
R15ER5 WILL BE
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING
2'-5 I/4"
q2q2-5/51'q2-5/51'q3/
- b«
,4.«
2x10 LADDER RAIL
-
® FRONT WALL
10.1/2"
q'-1 1/2" R
2,_ „
5 1/4
_ BRICK MOULDING ® 0' q' -I 1/2" R.O.
REFER TO TREAD SUPPORT WITH DOORS AND WINDOWS
DETAIL 2xb BLOCK `� TYPICAL (3) 2x4 STUDS
� OR 1.1/2"x3/8" GROOVE TI -II SIDING BELOW BEAM (Y2xb PRE55URE
TREATED KICK PLATE O
Ix4 TRIM AT DOUBLE 2x4 JACK STUDS r-
- 10 �5_0��
o o GONRER (TYPICAL) ® O.H. DOOR OPENING
SECTION A -A SCALE: 1/4"= I' -O" GRADE
56GTION B'B
24'-O' WIDE ALL DEPTH OPTIONS � SCALE -W NVE: 1/4" = 1'-0" FR4l`IT ELEVATION REFER TO DETAIL
SCALE: t/4" = 1'-O" FOR CORNER
GAMBREL ROOF MTN OPTIONAL DORMER R40F ALL D87M OPTIONS 24'-0' NDEFRONT FRAMING
q'-11 1/8" LADDER 5EGTION G R� ALL DEPTH OPTIONS 24 -0HIM NATION SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-0"
8'�b 5/8" Two SINGLE GARAGE DOORS GAN®REL• ROOF „ ALL DEPTH OPTIONS
RECESSED TWO SINGLE GARAGE DOORS
q -I o SUPPORT 51-43/411 - 12'-I I.I/4" 12'-O" RAIN LEDGE C BEAM 12'-O"
�y 2� 12 12 I' -II I/2" 12'-10.1/2" ®SUPPORT RIDGE I o L — —
c---� I — J
N 1 I
GUTTING RATIO 'y `3.1/2 5� 212 ° ° ---------------,------ °
GUTTING RATIO N CUTTING RATIO 6" 1/2" 5� 12" — — — — — — — — — — — 0 0
RAFTER TEMPLATE �` 10 I/4"
NO SCALE RAFTER TEMPLATE — — — — — — — — — — — — — 4" — 12"
NO SCALE RAFTER TEMPLATE GUTTING RATIO 2'-21/4m q'-1 1/2" 4 I/2" » 10 I/4
C7AM5 WIDE A L DEP'm OPflONS No SCALE RAFTE"j? TEMPLATE 2-2 v4 "
• 6AF1BRE1•, ROOF 24'-0' WIDE ALL DEPT}{ OPTIONS NO SCALE 24'-0"
LOMER RAFTER &A 13RQ ROOF 24'-08 NUDE ALL DEPTH OPTIONS 24'-0■ WIDE FOUNDATION PLAN
• ' 12" 2'-0" 4'-0" 4'-p' » 6 L ROOF 5HORIT ED GAMBREL ROOF ALL DEPTH OPTIONS 24'-0' WIDE SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-o"
COMER RAPIER UPPER RAFTER AT DORMER OPTION GAt�REL ROOF ALL STH OPTIONS
—4-0 — — 41-011 — — 4'-0« 12" TWO SINGLE GAip �RAIGE �
DOORS
N I 0 ° ° 0 0 0 ---0
1------------------------ I
N I I I 28' ELEVATION SHOWN
ADD • 10 I I I TKt�5FOR A
ALL LL 28' ELEVATION SHOWN
DEPTH OPTIONS ADD TO LENGTH AT
I I BREAKLINES FOR ALL
32'-0' t oP'noN
I I DEPTH OPTIONS
Ixb FA561A BOARD
WINDO _ -
_ I I
DORMER
N I ° ° 0------------------•-----I
0
0
I°----------------------------
• I I -- I
I I "Z" FLASHING
50'-O' DEPTH OPTION I
I I I I
I I I
N
(------------------------------ , OPTIONAL
— — — — — 1 I PERSONNEL
,... �-•�----------------_— — — — —
_____---------- -1 o - DOOR oPr10NALwINDow
N IIr--
---------------------0--0 ° ° ---
�I
0
ANCHOR BOLTS --- I
v cv I I I 4'0.G. MAx GRADE
3 O GRADE
�_x3-Ox4 » 1 r u
° I I' FROM CORNER MAX. I TYPICAL„ �r WE ELWATM CONCRETE STOOP
SCALE: 1/4" = r' -O" REAR ELEVATION
I I 24-W NM SCALE, 1/4" = I' -O"
SEE SECTION ' ALL DEPTH OPTIONS 248-0' NDE TYPICAL RK�HT SIDE ELEVATION
• O I LA FOR THI5 BREAK LINE I 8" TVP. wTH OPTIONAL D10 Aj�p Da01Z ALL DEPTH OPTIONS SCALE: I/4" = I' -O"
cm I LADDER DETAIL i RELATES TO THE I GAI"BREL ROOF 24'x• J^uj
I I LOCATION OF THE 4'-O" 10'-0" SUPPORT RIDGE BEAM !"NTN OP TONAL ALL DEPTH OPTIONS
I 20-0" GAMBREL NUTH oPnoNAL WINDOW
o I I BRF_AK LINE FOR 4,-0„ 9
• ALL DEPTH OPTIONS I ( Ib" O.G. 2'-0r 10'-O" SUPPORT RIDGE$EAM NOTE: WALL_ TIES
I I I I I (2) 2x12 " FOUR STUD POST AT
® 48 O.G. (I6 O.G. OPTIONAL BEAM SUPPORT
12'-0" TO OF BEAM -� - � � •DORMER OPTION
O z I I 12'-0" TO C�OF BFB I O !_EWER ®SUPPORT ARONT �D� M 2'-0" Ib" O.G. SEE
( LOFT FLOOR FRAMING
3" DIA. STEEL I I
z NOTE: SEE SEPARATE PIPE COLUMN
(2) 2x12 PLAN)
O WALL TIE -2 IG M
N14- BE SUPPORT RM A
O ° I I
O A I COLUMN AND FOOTING OPTIOI ICALAL-- I i AT Ib" O.G. ® DORMER ®FRONT OVERHANG
ELEC
w0- CONFIGURATION DETAILS I OUTLET A OPTION ONLYLu (2) 2x10 HEADER
O Q I I FOR SPACING AND BEAM 51ZE i
I I
IxlO LEDGER BOARD
OPTIONAL SUPPORT P05T
' d LIGHT FIXTURES ( I (2) 2i�i0 (2) 2x6 HEADER
m O p I I I HEADER o
NOTE
LADDER IxlO LEDGER
------
LADDERLEFT SIDL FRAMING BOARD
_ — I OPENING FIELD ELEV. WITHOUT '
I (2) 2xb VERIFY FIELD DORMER OPTION WILL
HEADER 4' R.O.VERIFY BE SIMILAR Toy' OPTIONAL DORMER
• N O I F PERIMETER FOOTING ! I I = R.O. r RI(•4{T
Ib „
G.
I I I I I WINDOW
FRAMING
I ELEVATION. 2xb RAFTERS
3„ STEEL DIA
I ®I6” O.G.
281-00 DF3P1N OPn� . WINDOW
N o PIPE
I BEAM
I 2xb RAFTER5
BOTTOM PLATE
BLOCK D ® Ib" O.G.OWN FOR � I Ll
-
N OPTIONAL
PER50NNEL DOOR cV I OPTIONAL
WINDOW
r Y. 2'-10' Ix4 (2) 2xb HEADER
• I I
I" REGE55ED I THI5 AREA I 2 TYPFt13D
lz I I RAIN LEDGE SHOWBRACING BEGIN STUD SPAGING
I S SLAB Ix4 VER) Q
® I b" O.G. FROM FIELD
`r I w/ BLOCK CURB I LET -IN R.O. BEGIN 5T11_ THIS CORNER VERIFY
— — — — — — --
CONSTRUCTION BRACING SPACING ® \ R.O.
0
_ ---- ----------I Ib O.G. (3) 2x4 STUDS
�
°`fl �tI FROM THIS BELOW BEAM O
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — ° O Q>> CORNER- WITH SUPPORT STUDS T
AT EACH 51DE
IONALFOUNDATION PLAN L 1x4 LET -IN
(, 4'-5.1/4" DOOR 5-1.1/2" BRACING
SCALE: 1/4" = I' -O" LIFT sm EL WATION 5'-1.1/2" TOP OF SLAB
24'-0' WIDE ALL DEPTH OPTIONS SCALE: i/4" = t' -o" ELEVATION _ 5'-1.1/2
GAN®REL ROOF 24'-08 NIDE 5GAL-E: 1/411- I -o" RIGHT SIDE
TWO SINGLE GARAGE DOORS �F Me OPTION i -ON NUDE FRAMING ELEVATION
. w1H SER AND PER5ONNEI_ DOgZ ALL DEPTH OPTIONS 24'•x' WIDE SCALE: 1/4"
R'O'B WITH OPTIONAL DORMM GAMB;tm ROOF 28' DEPTH OPTION
WITH OPTIONAL WINDOW
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a
REAR FOUNDATION WALL
REAR FOUNDATION WALL PERIMETER FOOTING
21_/ 11 BEAM 12'-0"
PERIMETER FOOTING
9'-6" 2'_611 BEAM 12'-0"
0 0
o I M
o —A---�
24' WIDE GAMBREL ROOF GARAGES
MINIMUM RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST SIZE AND SPACING - 24' DEPTH
24'-0' X 28'-08
Q
LlFLOOR
DOUBLE 2x10 HEADER
LADDER
OPENING
DOUBLE 2x10 j
FLOOR JOISTS
I
I
I
iI
DOUBLE 2x10 HEADER
LADDER
OPENING
DOUBLE 2x10
J015T5
11
FLOOR JOISTS
II
II
(3'-6" SPAN)
(8'-6" SPAN)
7" SPAN)
II
II
o
RIGHT SIDE UPPER
N
—
r
II
II
I
2x6@16"O.C.
II
II
m
II
II
30 7'
I
N I I U)
II p
0.k I I N
II
(4)
OPTI
FOR
OF
II
II
F
30 15
2x6@16"O.C.
I
_________________
2x12@16"O.C.
PI
II
I I
JU
0 ii O
O U it O
N ® I I ryk
II
II
I
I
II
II
40 15
2x6@16"O.C.
L,= --=
II
II
2x12@12"O.C.
II
II
2x6@16"O.C.
II
II
2x8@16"O.C.
II
--------- -------------------- I
r
Lumber Specifications
II
II
II
2A
RI
(G
I
II
II
II
248-0' X 30'-0"
----------------------
-
I
II
�
II
II
II
LL I
I I
0 0
o I M
o —A---�
24' WIDE GAMBREL ROOF GARAGES
MINIMUM RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST SIZE AND SPACING - 24' DEPTH
24'-0' X 28'-08
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
O
�t
DOUBLE 2x10 HEADER
LADDER
OPENING
DOUBLE 2x10 j
FLOOR JOISTS
I
0
LIVE DEAD
iI
t
r
FLOOR JOISTS
II
II
(3'-6" SPAN)
(8'-6" SPAN)
7" SPAN)
II
II
o
RIGHT SIDE UPPER
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
II
20 15
2x6@16"O.C.
II
II
m
I
30 7'
I
N I I U)
II p
0.k I I N
II
(4)
OPTI
FOR
OF
2 x 8 16"O.C.
F
30 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
PI
2x6@16"O.C.
II
I
I
2x12@16"0.C.
40 15
2x6@16"O.C.
L,= --=
3'
G
2x12@12"O.C.
II
II
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
II
--------- -------------------- I
r
Lumber Specifications
For Rafters and Floor Joists: E = 1.4 x 10^6 p.s.i. @ U240
II
2A
RI
(G
6'-O" I 8'-O" ( 8'-O" I 8'-O"
II
II
248-0' X 30'-0"
o
I
�
LL I
I I
p
IL
o
�
tt1
I I WITHOUT DORMER I
I
I
`FI
(4) 2x10
II
�
OPTIONAL BEAM
II
II �
FOR SUPPORT
�I
OF ENGINE LIFT
xIQ
-
W
D
Al
o
3 DIA STEEL --��
�
PIPE COLUMN I
I
L—J
3'-O"x3'-0"x11_//111111
I
-
CONCRETE F06TIN6
_
I
N
2x l0
I
RIM J015T
(CONTINUOUS)
--------
dJ
-------
0 0
o I M
o —A---�
24' WIDE GAMBREL ROOF GARAGES
MINIMUM RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST SIZE AND SPACING - 24' DEPTH
24'-0' X 28'-08
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
O
�t
DOUBLE 2x10 HEADER
LADDER
OPENING
DOUBLE 2x10 j
FLOOR JOISTS
I
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
SHEATHING
LIVE DEAD
iI
t
r
FLOOR JOISTS
II
II
(3'-6" SPAN)
(8'-6" SPAN)
7" SPAN)
II
II
o
RIGHT SIDE UPPER
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
II
20 15
2x6@16"O.C.
II
II
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
30 7'
I
N I I U)
II p
0.k I I N
II
(4)
OPTI
FOR
OF
2 x 8 16"O.C.
II
II
30 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
PI
2x6@16"O.C.
II
I
I
2x12@16"0.C.
40 15
2x6@16"O.C.
L,= --=
3'
G
2x12@12"O.C.
II
II
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
II
--------- -------------------- I
I
Lumber Specifications
For Rafters and Floor Joists: E = 1.4 x 10^6 p.s.i. @ U240
II
2A
RI
(G
6'-O" I 8'-O" ( 8'-O" I 8'-O"
II
II
248-0' X 30'-0"
RIDGE
_
II
0 0
o I M
o —A---�
24' WIDE GAMBREL ROOF GARAGES
MINIMUM RAFTER & FLOOR JOIST SIZE AND SPACING - 24' DEPTH
24'-0' X 28'-08
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
AT DORMER
UPPER RAFTER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
SHEATHING
LIVE DEAD
LOWER RAFTER
UPPER RAFTER
@DORMER (11'-
FLOOR JOISTS
LOAD LOAD
(3'-6" SPAN)
(8'-6" SPAN)
7" SPAN)
O
o
RIGHT SIDE UPPER
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
I
20 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2 x 6 16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
30 7'
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2 x 8 16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
30 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"O.C.
40 7
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@16"0.C.
40 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@12"O.C.
45 15
2x6@16"O.C.
2x6@16"O.C.
2x8@16"O.C.
2x12@12"O.C.
Shaded area indicates designed load value - Use # 2 S.P.F. of better
Lumber Specifications
For Rafters and Floor Joists: E = 1.4 x 10^6 p.s.i. @ U240
Fb = 875 p.s.i. BASE VALUE @ 7 day snow load
O I I I O 21_611
O 2 -6
= N R106E
L—�—J i
2x10 -
ONAL BEAM I
SUPPORT I — -
EN61NE LIFT d ' Y
r�w _
-
mI>. o
--i z
O
O
d-
24'-0' X 28'-08
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
SHEATHING
D=
O
24'-0' X 28'-08
I8'-0" 8'-O'1 5'-0 6'_011
4'-0"
4'-0" b' -O" 8'-0" 41_0"
O
8' -O"14'-.011
r -T t
I
(V
O
M J015T
ONTINUOUS)
I =
-------- ---
2x10 END •3/411 ¢RAFTER RAFTER ¢ RAFTEK
J01O END
15T (CONTINUOUS) W43/4"J015T (GONTINUOUS)
NOTE: ONLY IF AND WHERE SOLID BLOGKINC7 NOTE: ONLY IF AND WHERE 50LID BLOCKIN6 24'-0" X 28'-08
JOISTS MUST ABUT, MEET AT AT JOIST OVERLAPJOISTS MUST ABUT, MEET AT AT J015T OVERLAP
CENTER LINE OF BEAM. CENTER LINE OF BEAM. RIGHT 51DE LONER
DOUBLE FLOOR J015T5 DOUBLE FLOOR J015T5 GOLL I AND FOOTING
® DORMER OPTION COLUMN AND FOOTING ® DORMER OPTION NOTE: LEFT SIDE WILL BE
GOIC'I'URATION GONFI6URATION 51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
SGALE: 1/4" = 1'-0" DETAIL SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-0" LOFT FLOOR FRAMING PLAN SCALE: I/4" = I'-0" DETAIL SCALE: I/4" = I'-011
LOFT FLOOR FRAMING PLAN 2'-611
WIDE
26'D
H OPTION 24'-0' WIDE 28'-0' DEPTH OPTION 24'-0' NNDE 30' DEPTH OPTION 24'-0' WIDE 30'-0' DEPTH OPTION = � RIDGE
24' -ON G ROOF 6AMBM ROOF GAMBREL ROOF '
6AMBREL ROOF -
- O
I O
- REAR FOUNDATION WALL < TT l P_ 7
O
O
i
'ct
24'-0' X 28'-08
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
'
D=
O
24'-0' X 28'-08
I8'-0" 8'-O'1 5'-0 6'_011
4'-0"
4'-0" b' -O" 8'-0" 41_0"
O
I
O
o
RIGHT SIDE UPPER
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
I
d
II
24-0 X28-0
DIA STEEL —I—Q
O
v -
IIS I
PE COLUMN
w
NOTE: LEFT SIDE WILL BE
LEFT SIDE UPPER
J
tt 2'-O"
E
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
AT DORMER
L — —
II
LU
D
O
-O"x3'-O"xI'-o" J -
O
I I 1
ONGRETE FOOTING I
m
_ 4'-O" 20'-0"
4
6'-O" I 8'-O" ( 8'-O" I 8'-O"
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
248-0' X 30'-0"
RIDGE
_
I
(V
O
M J015T
ONTINUOUS)
I =
-------- ---
2x10 END •3/411 ¢RAFTER RAFTER ¢ RAFTEK
J01O END
15T (CONTINUOUS) W43/4"J015T (GONTINUOUS)
NOTE: ONLY IF AND WHERE SOLID BLOGKINC7 NOTE: ONLY IF AND WHERE 50LID BLOCKIN6 24'-0" X 28'-08
JOISTS MUST ABUT, MEET AT AT JOIST OVERLAPJOISTS MUST ABUT, MEET AT AT J015T OVERLAP
CENTER LINE OF BEAM. CENTER LINE OF BEAM. RIGHT 51DE LONER
DOUBLE FLOOR J015T5 DOUBLE FLOOR J015T5 GOLL I AND FOOTING
® DORMER OPTION COLUMN AND FOOTING ® DORMER OPTION NOTE: LEFT SIDE WILL BE
GOIC'I'URATION GONFI6URATION 51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
SGALE: 1/4" = 1'-0" DETAIL SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-0" LOFT FLOOR FRAMING PLAN SCALE: I/4" = I'-0" DETAIL SCALE: I/4" = I'-011
LOFT FLOOR FRAMING PLAN 2'-611
WIDE
26'D
H OPTION 24'-0' WIDE 28'-0' DEPTH OPTION 24'-0' NNDE 30' DEPTH OPTION 24'-0' WIDE 30'-0' DEPTH OPTION = � RIDGE
24' -ON G ROOF 6AMBM ROOF GAMBREL ROOF '
6AMBREL ROOF -
- O
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- REAR FOUNDATION WALL < TT l P_ 7
O
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i
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24'-0' X 28'-08
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
SHEATHING
D=
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8'-O" I 8'-O"
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o DORMER OPTION
LOFT FLOOR FRAMING PLAN SGALE: 1/4" = 1'-0"
24'-0" WIDE 32' DEPTH OPTION
6AMBREL ROOF
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)PTIONAL BEAM
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(CONTINUOUS)
PERIMETER FOOTING
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CONCRETE FOOTING
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GOLlJ1" M MV FOOTM
CAQWWRATION -
DETAIL SGALE: 1/4" = 1'-0'
24'-0' N M 37-0' DEPTH OPTION
/611 �nl_nll , 3'-6" '
¢RAFTER ¢RAFTER RAFTER
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24'-0' X 28'-08
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
6FI i i ® EACH 510E
42" HIGH WALL
II
II
I I OPTIONAL DORMER I LOFT PLAN
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LOFT PLAN SCALE: 1/4' = 1'-0"
24'-0' WIDE �- DEPT14 OPTIONS
GAMBREL R00F WITH OPTIONAL DORMER PLAN
RIGHT 51DE UPPER
NOTE: LEFT 51DE WILL BE
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
RIDGE
O
O
24'-0' X 28'-08
lu
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
6FI i i ® EACH 510E
42" HIGH WALL
II
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I I OPTIONAL DORMER I LOFT PLAN
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8'-O" I 8'-O"
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PLYWOOD
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24'-0" X JO' -0"
LEFT SIDE UPPER
II
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m
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6'-O" I 8'-O" ( 8'-O" I 8'-O"
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
248-0' X 30'-0"
LEFT SIDE LONER
AT DORMER
p
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tt1
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LOFT PLAN SCALE: 1/4' = 1'-0"
24'-0' WIDE �- DEPT14 OPTIONS
GAMBREL R00F WITH OPTIONAL DORMER PLAN
RIGHT 51DE UPPER
NOTE: LEFT 51DE WILL BE
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
RIDGE
O
O
24'-0' X 28'-08
lu
AT DORMER
4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
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24'-0' X 30'-0'
RIGHT SIDE LONER
NOTE: LEFT 51DE WILL BE
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
O 2'-6"
LU = RIDGE
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24'-0' X 28'-08
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AT DORMER
4'x8'
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LEFT 51DE LOVER
AT DORMER
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a.-ONI 81-011 I 81_01' I n1_yll -
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R16HT SIDE UPPER
NOTE: LEFT SIDE WILL BE
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION
¢ RAFTER RAFTER ¢RAF R
24'-0' X 28'-08
LEFT 51DE LOVER
AT DORMER
RIDGE
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4'x8'
a.-ONI 81-011 I 81_01' I n1_yll -
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4'-0" 8'-0" 4'-0" 4'-0"
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
24'-0" X JO' -0"
LEFT SIDE UPPER
AT DORHM
4'-O" 22'-0" 4'-O"
O
6'-O" I 8'-O" ( 8'-O" I 8'-O"
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
248-0' X 30'-0"
LEFT SIDE LONER
AT DORMER
2'-6"
1
2'-6"
24'-00 X 32'-0"
LEFT SIDE UPPER
AT DORMER
4'-O"
4'-O" 24'-0"
R106E —
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4'x8'
PLYWOOD
5HEATHIN6
a.-ONI 81-011 I 81_01' I n1_yll -
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8'-O" I S'-0"
¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER r" ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER ¢ RAFTER
24'-0' X 32'-0' 24'-00 X 32'-08.
RIGHT SIDE LONER NOTE: LEFT 51DE WILL BE LEFT 516E LONER
51MILAR WITHOUT DORMER OPTION AT DORMER
ROOF %EATHIN6 LAYOUTS SCALE: I/e" = 1'-0"
/111
24'-0' WIDE ALL WIDTH OPTIONS
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2x4 FRAMING
FLAT
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CARCO DOOR
FRAMIN6 56ALE: 1/4" = 1'-0"
24'-O' WIDE ALL DEPTH
OPTIONS
10'-0" 5UPPORT RIDGE BEAM
(2) 2xI2
5UPPORT RI06E
BEAM ® FRONT
OVERHANG
2xb RAFTERS —
0 .Ib" O.G.
(4) 5TUD P05T
AT OPTIONAL
SUPPORT BEAM
(5EE LOFT FLOOR
FRAMING PLAN) -
BOTTOM PLATE —
(2) 2xb HEADER
OPTIONAL WINPeH
Ix4
LET -IN BRAGING —
BEGIN STUD 5PAGINCG
® Ib" O.G. FROM
THI5 GORNER
Ix10 LEDGER
BOARD
(2) 2xIO
HEADER
LADDER
OPENING -�
WINDOW
I1 I VI - - -
RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
24'-0' WIDE
GA WEL ROOF
A. -I[ 1/1111
TI -II c
SIDING r
AI_II IM"
Ix4
TRIM
CARCO DOOR CARGO DOOR
SIDING 5GALE: 1/4" = 1'-0" TRIM SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-0"
24'-0' WIDE A OPDEPTH TIONS2*-Oo NVE
ALL DEPTH
FRMIN6, EI ♦♦
24' -Om P41DE • 1 i`i=1
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1n11YI cJ 9=/ 0r OlMr PRIPAM
(2) 2x12
SUPPORT RIDCEmwl
® FRONT OVERHANG
WO L MiC BOARD —
NOTE: WALL TIES
® 46' OAC. pb" O.G.
® DORMER OPTIOW
2xb
O Ib' O.G.
AT71V P05T
SOPTIONAL
SUPPORT BEAM
(SEE LOFT FLOOR
FRAMING PLAN)
BOTTOM PLATE
OPTIONAL_ WINDOW
(2) 2x& FEADW
BEGIN STUD 5PAGIN6
A 160 O.G. FROM
THIS CORNER
Ix4
LET -IN BRAGIN6
(2) 2x12
SORT PJDSE BEAM
�OMERHAN6
WALL TIPS
WILL 13E AT W O.G.
® DORMER COWN ONLY
IxI0 LE1'/16Eit BOARD
(2) 2x10
LADDE* OF UNG
WINDOW
2xb RAF[HZ5
0 I b" 0L.
Ix4
LET -19 !L/IwI INe
DO PE
BE
SP 4!
Ib"
NAIL SIZING CHART
LENGTH
PENNY
GAUGE
2"
6
111/2
21/2"
8
101/4
3"
10
9
31/4"
12
9
31/2"
16
8
IaSW SIDE FRAMING EL&VATION SCALE: 1/4" = 1'-0"
24'-' NIDE 32' DEPTH OPTION
6A RM IWOF WITH OPTIONAL_ WINDON
nA l_nll
(2) 2x12
SUPPORT RIDGE BEAM
® FRONT OVERHANG -
IxIO LEDCER'
BOARD
WINDOW
Ix4
LET -IN
BRA61%
OPTIONAL
PERSONNEL
DOOR
BEGIN 5TUD
5PACIN6
Ib" O.G.
FROM THIS
CORNER
NOTE: VERIFY ALL DOOR A
. �MATE�tIAS�LIS� Note:
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MATERIALS LIST FOR 22'X-28'
_he�garage-'c
z
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MATERIALS LIST FOR 22'X
26'
GAMBREL ROOF GARAGE WITH DORMER
DESCRIPTION CITY UNIT
SIZE
CONCRETE SLAB FOUNDATION (w/16" x 24" Ftg.)
22'X 26'
2500 psi Concrete
16
cu. yds.
- SIZE
#5 Rebar
20
ea.
20' length
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 6 10/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
roll
Concrete Block
72
ea.
8" x 8" x 16"
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
ea.
1/2"x 18"
Masons Cement
4
bags
80 Ib.
CONCRETE BLOCK FOUNDATION (5 courses)
4
bags
2500 psi Concrete Footing
4
cu. yds.
16" x 8"
#5 Rebar
16
ea.
20' length
Concrete Block
375
ea.
8" x 8"x 16"
Masons Cement
20
bags
80 Ib.
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
ea.
1/2" x 18"
Concrete Slab
8
cu. yds.
4"
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 610/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
8
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft..
1/2" x 4"
POURED CONCRETE FOUNDATION (8" x 4')
POURED CONCRETE FOUNDATION (8" x 4')
Foundation Wall
t i
2500 psi Concrete Footing
4
cu. yds.
16" x 8"
#5 Rebar
29
ea.
20' length
Foundation Wall
11
cu. yds.
8" x 4'
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
ea.
1/2" x 10"
Concrete Slab
8
cu. yds.
4"
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 6-10/10
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
lin. ft.
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft.
1/2" x 4'
WALL FRAMING
Sill Sealer
1
roll
Sill Sealer
1
roll
4"x 100'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
3
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Pre-cut wall studs
100
ea.
2 x 4 x 92-5/8'
Double top plate
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Double top plate
5
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Double top plate
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Double top plate
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Header
4
ea.
2 x 12 x 10'
Steel Pipe Column
2
ea.
3" x 8'
Interior L.V.L. Beam
2
ea.
1-3/4'x 9-1/2"x 26'
Blocking
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Plumb and Line Bracing
8
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
LOFT LEVEL FLOOR
Rim Joists
2
ea.
Rim Joists
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Rim Joists
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
End Joists
4
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Floor Joists
36
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
3 •
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
Solid Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
T & G Decking
17
shts.
3/4" x 4' x 8'
Glue
5
qts.
Plate
LOFT LEVEL WALL FRAMING
Loft Wall Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
4
ea.
Loft Wall Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Loft Wait Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
18
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Front & Rear Wall Studs
17
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Plate
11
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Plate
10
ea.
2 x 4 x i6'
Header @ Cargo Door
1
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Header (Ladder Opening)
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Dormer Studs
6
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Dormer Studs
10
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Cargo Door Framing
6
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
LADDER
LadderTread
3
ea.
Kick Plate (Pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Ladder Rails
2
ea.
2 x lox 12'
Ladder Tread
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Tread Supports
2
ea.
2 x 8 X12.
Rail Posts
3
ea.
4 x 4 x 8'
Hand Rails
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
8
ea.
1/2" x 6"
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
4
ea.
1/2" x 8"
ROOF FRAMING
Upper Rafters
42
ea.
Ridge Board
2
ea.
2 x 8 x 10'
Support Ridge Board
2
ea.
2 x 12 x 10'
Upper Rafters
.30
ea.
2 x 6 x 10'
Upper Rafters
17
ea.
2 x 6 x 14'
Lower Rafters
30
ea.
2 x 6 x 10'
Ledger Board
2
ea.
1 x 10 x 10'
Ledger Board
1
ea.
1 x lox 16'
Wall Ties
16
ea.
2 x 6 x 16'
Spacer ■ Wall Ties
3
ea.
2 x 6 x 12'
Hanger for Wall Ties
8
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Gable Stud
21
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Roof Bracing
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Eave Soffit framing ® Dormer
2
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Fascia at Eaves
2
ea.
1 x 8 x 10'
Fascia at Eaves
4
ea
1 x 8 x 14'
Fascia at Gable Rake
10
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Plywood Roof Sheathing; includes header spacers
30
shts.
1/2" x w x 8'
Rake Edge
9
pcs.
10'
Drip Edge
11
pos.
10'
15# Roofing Felt
3
role
432 s.fJrotl
Shingles
30
bridle.
ea.
SIDING AND TRIM
Garage Door Stop
2
am
Flashing above O.H. Door
2
pcs.
1-1/2' x 10'
Brickrnoid Trim G O.H. Door
52
gn. fL
pcs.
Jamb G O.H. Door
4
ea.
1 x 6 x a'
Jamb 0 O.H. Door
2
ea.
t x 6 x 10'
Garage Door Stop
4
ea.
t x 3 x 8'
Garage Door Stop
2
ea.
1 x 3 x 10'
Plywood Siding T1-11
49
shts.
5/8• x 4'x V
Z Metal Flashing
8
pcs.
5/8' x 10'
Cargo Door Trim
1
ea.
1 x 4 x 8'
Cargo Door Trim
6
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Comer Trim
8
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Comer Trim
2
ea.
1 x 4 x 12'
Nails for T1-11 Siding
34
lbs.
8d Gely.
Frieze Trim at Eaves
2
ea.
1 x 2 x 8'
Frieze Trim at Eaves
6
ea.
1 x 2 x 10'
MISCELLANEOUS
Galvanized Casing Nails for Trim
8
lbs.
Overhead Garage Door
2
ea.
9'x 7'
Window
2
ea.
Approx. 3'x 3'
Header for Window
2
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Flashing above Window
1
PC.
1-1/2' x 10'
Nails for Rough Framing
40
lbs.
16d
Ings for Rough Framing
16
lbs.
10d
Nails for Root Sheathing .14
Trim Around Opening
lbs.
6d
Nags for Soffit
•'1
Ib.
4d. Gal.
Galvanized Roofing Nails
20
lbs.
1-1/4'
Galvanized Casing Nags for Trim
8
lbs.
6d GaIv.
Shim Stock
1
bndl.
ae.
Fkxx Decking Nails
12
lbs.
8d
CARGO DOOR
Flash ft above Door
1
PC.
Siding T1-11
2
shts.
5/8' x 4' x 8'
Framing
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Trim
6
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Trim Around Opening
2
ea.
1 x 4 x 12'
OPTIONS
FLOOR OPTION
Pre -Hung Exterior Personnel Door
PERSONNEL DOOR
Engim Lit Reinforcement
3
aa.
Pre -Hung Exterior Personnel Door
1
ea.
2'-8" x 6'-8'
Header for Personnel Door
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Keyed Lockset for Personnel Door
1
ea.
shis.
Flashing above Door
1
PC.
1-1/2"x 10'
WINDOW
32
bs.
8d Gely.
Window
1
ea.
Apprax. 3' x 3'
Header for Window
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Flashing above Window
1
pc.
1-1/2"x 10'
FLOOR OPTION
6
ea.
10' Mrrylh
Engine Lift Reinforcement
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
OTHER SIDING PACKAGES
26
ere.
24' oc
Let -in Bracing
14
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Front Well Sheathing
12
shis.
1/2" x 4'x8'
Lap Siding (1(' Exposure) 1490
In. ft.
12"
Galvanized Skiing Nails
32
tbs.
8d GaIv.
Pre -formed Outside Comers
52
ea.
10"
Wal Sheathing
45
skis.
1/2"x 4' x 8'
Nails for Wag Sheathing
20
lbs.
6d
GUTTERS
Gutter Sed
1 lubes
Preformed Gutter
8
ea.
10' Iength
Spices
36
ea.
24" oc
Ferrules
36
ea.
24" oc
Slip Joint Connectors
7
ea.
10'
Outlet Section
3
ea.
3Wklr4r
Elbow
9
ea.
12b'
Downspout
3
ea.
10' length
Downspout Strap
9
as.
12'-8'
Cap
3
so.
3/45112'-6"
LEnd
eft End Cap
3
am
1/2'x12'-8"
Caper Seal
1
tunes
12'-6'
ConcreM Splash Block
2
aa.
65ka2'4'
Rivals
i
box
box of 100
VINYL SIDING AND TRIM
PC&
(10 -VZ SCO
�D Roofing Nail
Starter Strip
8
pcs
10
1 J -Cho nal (door & window)
13
pus
3/4"x12'-6"
Ulky Trim (door & window)
4
pus
12'-6'
Outside Cormr Past
5
pcs
10'
UtRy Trip (under saw)
6
pas
12'-6"
j.Ch mel (gable "under savo/afnd roof)
14
pcs
3/4"x12'-6'
J•dtmtal (soNQ
9
pcs
1/2"x12'-6"
Vetted Sal■
2
pcs
12'-6"
Nowt nted Soffit
1
pcs
12'-6"
Fascia Cap
8
pcs
6"x12'-6"
Fascia Cap
5
pcs
8"x12'-6"
Double 4' Vinyl Siding
135
pis
(11-1/4 sq.)
Gahlerlized Roofing Nag
12
it>s
1-1/2'
Aluniwlm Trim NaA
1
itt.
1-1/4"
GABLE OVERHANGS
1/2'x 4'x 8'
additional Frieze Trim
3
Framing ler Cattle Overhangs
20
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Fuming fir Gable Ovedi ngs
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
ad - I I PIA Roof Sheerning
3/8" x 4' x 8'
GABLE OVERHANGS - VINYL
(requited for 1" Gebla Ovel tang)
4
shts.
1/2' x 4'x e'
edMonal Frieze Trim
3
ea.
1 x 2x8'
adMonal Fiiams Trim
7
es.
1 x 2 x 10'
atlNortei Soft Plywood
3
sills.
3/8' x C x C
GABLE OVERHANGS - VgllYl.
J•CftaretN (soffit)
13
pcs
1/2"x12'4r
NarlNrned Soffit
7
pcs
12'4'
ND WINDOW ROUGH OPENII
X0.7: Yfe:.S•%. "Y`.: "�12rtl� y��j7 1
iosenyy�calls��or, �aftersl�a �• •' o. • < o
MATERIALS LIST FOR 22'X-28'
o' ' I
DESCRIPTION OTY UNIT
SIZE
CONCRETE 'LAB FOUNDATION (w/16" x 24" Ftg.)
2500 psi Concrete
MATERIALS LIST FOR
22'X 26'
GAMBREL ROOF GARAGE WITHOUT
DORMER
DESCRIPTION OTY UNIT
- SIZE
CONCRETE SLAB FOUNDATION (w/16" x 24" Ftg.)
616 sq. ft.
2500 psi Concrete
16
cu. yds.
#5 Rebar
20
ea.
20' length
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 610/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
Concrete Block
72
ea.
8"x 8"x 16"
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
ea.
1/2" x 18"
Masons Cement
4
bags
80 Ib.
CONCRETE BLOCK FOUNDATION (5 courses)
16" 8"
2500 psi Concrete Footing
4
cu. yds.
x
#5 Rebar
16
ea.
20' length
Concrete Block
375
ea.
8"x 8" x 16"
Masons Cement
20
bags
80 lb.
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
ea.
1/2"X 18'
Concrete Slab
8
cu. yds. 4'
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 610/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft.
1/2" x 4"
POURED CONCRETE FOUNDATION (8" x 4')
Foundation Wall
t i
cu. yds. 8" x 4'
2500 psi Concrete Footing
4
cu. yds. 16' x 8"
#5 Rebar
29
ea.
20' length
Foundation Wall
11
cu. yds: 8" x 4'
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
26
as.
1/2' x 10'
Concrete Slab
8
cu. yds. 4"
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20' x 50'
Welded Wire Mesh
580
sq. ft.
6 x 6-10110
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft.
1/2" x 4'
WALL FRAMING
2 x 4 x 8'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
Sill Sealer
1
roll
4"x 100'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
3
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Pre-cut wall studs
100
ea.
2 x 4 x 92-5/8'
Double top plate
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Double top plate
5
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Double top plate
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Double top plate
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Header
4
ea.
2 x 12 x 10'
Steel Pipe Column
2
ea.
3"x 8'
Interior LV.L. Beam
2
ea.
1-3/4"x 9-1/2'x 26'
Blocking
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Plcrnb and Line Bracing
8
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
LOFT LEVEL FLOOR
2 x 10 x 10'
Floor Joists
39
Rim Joists
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Rim Joists
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
End Joists
4
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Floor Joists
35
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
Solid Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
.
T & G Dedddng
14
shis.
3/4' x 4'x 8'
Glue
4
qts.
11
LOFT LEVEL WALL FRAMING
2 x 4 x 12'
Plate
12
Loft Wall Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Loft Wall Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
25
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Front & Rear Wall Studs
17
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Plate
8
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Plate
12
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Header ® Cargo Door
1
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Header (Ladder Opening)
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Cargo Door Framing
6
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
LADDER
2 x lox 12'
Ladder Tread
3
Kick Plate (Pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Ladder Rails
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
LadderTread
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Tread Supports
2
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Rail Posts
3
ea.
4 x 4 x 8'
Hand Rails
4
as.
2 x 4 x 12'
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
8
ea.
1/2" x 6"
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
4
ea.
1/2' x 8'
ROOF FRAMING
2 x 8 x 12'
Support Ridge Board
2
Ridge Board
2
as.
2 x 8 x 10'
Support Ridge Board
2
ea.
2 x 12 x 10'
Upper Rafters
42
ea.
2 x 6 x 10'
Lower Rafters
42
ea.
2 x 6 z 10'
Ledger Board
2
ea.
1 x 10 x 10'
Ledger Board
2
ea.
1 x 10 x 16'
Wall Ties
6
ee.
2 x 6 x 16'
Spacer ■ Wall Ties
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 12'
Hanger for Well Ties
3
ea.
2 x 6 x a'
Gable Stud
13
ea.
2 x 4 x a'
- - -- Beef Brecing
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Fascia at Eaves
4
ea.
t x8 x 14'
Fascia at Gable Rake
9
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Plywood Roof Sheathing; incudes header spacers
29
shts.
1/2' x 4'x8'
Rake Edge
10
PCs.
10'
Drip Edge
11
pcs.
10'
15# Roofing Felt
3
rile
432 s fAd
Shingles
28
binds.
32
SIDING AND TRIM
1/2"x 4' x 8'
Rake Edge
10
Flashing above O.FI. Door
2
pcs.
1-1/2' x 10
Bric*mold Trim ■ O.H. Door
52
IkLfL
3
Jamb ■ O.H. Door
4
ea.
1 x 6x 6'
Jamb ■ O.H. Door
2
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Garage Door Stop
4
ea.
1 x 3 x 8'
Garage Door Stop
2
am
1 x 3 x 10'
Plywood Siding TI -11
42
shits.
5/8' x 4'x8'
Z Metal Flashing
a
pcs.
5/a' x 10'
Cargo Door Trim
1
ea.
1 x 4x8'
Cargo Door Trim
6
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Corner Trim
8
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Naga for TI -11 Siring
34
Ibs.
8d Gallia.
Frieze Trim at Eave
2
se.
1 x 2x8'
Frieze Trim at Ewe
4
ea.
1 x 2 x 10'
MISCELLANEOUS
i x 4 x 12'
Cargo Door Trim
1
Overhead Garage Door
2
ee.
9'x7'
Nats or Rough FramYtg
40
floe
16d
Naas for Rough RaMng
16
Iba.
10d
Naffs for hoof Sheathing
14
Ibs.
6d
Nails for Soffit
1
b.
4d GaIv.
Galvanized Roofing Nab
20
lbs.
1-1/4'
Galvanized Casing Nails for Trim
8
lbs.
ed GaIv.
Shim Stock
1
bride.
2
Floor Decking Nails
12
Ihs.
8d
CARGO DOOR
1-1/2"x 10'
Nails for Rough Framing
42
Siding T1-1.1
2
alis.
518'i 4' x V
Framing •
4
aa.
2 x 4 x 12'
'film
6
sa.
1 x 4 x f0'
Trim Around Opening
2
ea.
1 x 4 x te'
OPTIONS
1-1/4'
Galvanized Casing Nails for Trim
9
PERSONNEL DOOR
6d Galv.
Shim Stock
1
Pre -Hung Exterior Personnel Door
1
ea.
2'-8'x6'-8'
Has& for Personnel Door
1
ae.
2 x 6x8'
Keyed Lockst for Personnel Door
1
aa.
2
Flash ft above Door
1
PC.
1-1/2' x t0'
'WINDOW
2 x 4 x 12'
Trim
6
Window
1
ea.
Apprar. S' x 3'
Header for Window
1
a&
2 x 6x8'
Window ft above dow
1
pc.
1-1/2'X 19
FLOOR OPTION
Pre -Hung Exterior Personnel Door
1
Engim Lit Reinforcement
3
aa.
2 x 10 x 12'
OTHER SIDING PACKAGES
2 x 6 x 8'
Keyed Lockset for Personnel Door
1
Let -in Bracing
14
as.
1 x 4 x 10'
front Walt Shea •
12
shis.
1/2' x C x 8'
LapOft(1o" 1950
MA.
12"
GaIiianized sidig Nails
32
bs.
8d Gely.
Pre4orned Outside Carriers
40
ea.
10'
Nai for Wall Shoaling
20
los.
8d
GUTTERS -
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
OTHER SIDING PACKAGES
Preformed Gutter
6
ea.
10' Mrrylh
14
25
so.
24' oc
Frnrles
26
ere.
24' oc
Stip Joint Connectors
6
es.
Galvanized Siding Nails
Outlet Safion
2
ea.
Pre -formed Outside Corners
Ebow
6
as
Nails for Wall Sheathing
Downspout
2
am
10' WQM
Downspout Skop
6
K
Spikes
Right End Cap
2
ser.
Ferrules
Left End Cap
2
ser.
Slip Joint Connectors
Gutter Sed
1 lubes
Cgwrds Splash Block
2
ea.
Rivets
1
bar
box of 100
VINYL SIDING AND TRIM
3
ea.
10' length
Starter Strip
8
pre.
10'
J -Cha (door& window)
11
pcs.
3Wklr4r
lily (door& window)
3
prig.
12b'
Corner Post
4
pcs.
10'
Uti Trim (under save)
5
pos.
12'-8'
J-Channsl(g erWulder save)
13
pus.
3/45112'-6"
J•Chennof (sopa)
6
Los.
1/2'x12'-8"
NowVeded Soffit
1
pa.
12'-6'
Fascia Cap
6
pts.
65ka2'4'
Fascia Cap
5
Pa.
85A2W
4" Vinyl Skfng 126
PC&
(10 -VZ SCO
�D Roofing Nail
11
los
1 -VZ"
IAllumimen Trim Nail
1
pcs.
3/4"x12'-6"
GABLE OVERHANGS I
Framing Gable Overhangs
2D
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
addiiorls Rod sheathing
2
pcs.
12'-6"
(required fo 'Gable Overhang)
4
able.
1/2' x 4' x 8'
Frieze Trim
3
M•
1 x 2x8'
Frieze Trim
6
rte.
1 x 2x10'
add SoQ Plywood
3
able.
3/8' x 4' x 8'
GABLE OVERHANGS - VINY
lbs
1-1/2"
Aluminum Trim Nail
J•Chanml (soffit)
12
Pa•
125c r
Nm -awned sofflt
6
pa•
12'x'
VGS WITH MANUFACTURER
alts
MATERIALS LIST FOR 22'X-28'
o 0=
'o to
GAMBREL ROOF GARAGE WITH DORMER
DESCRIPTION OTY UNIT
SIZE
CONCRETE 'LAB FOUNDATION (w/16" x 24" Ftg.)
2500 psi Concrete
17
cu. yds.
#5 Rebar
20
ea.
20' length
Welded Wire Mesh
616 sq. ft.
6 x 6 10/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20' x 50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
Concrete Block
75
ea.
8" x 8" x 16"
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
27
ea.
1/2"x 18'
Masons Cement
5
bags
80 Ib.
CONCRETE BLOCK FOUNDATION (5 courses
2500 psi Concrete Footing
N
cu. yds.
16'x 8"
#5 Rebar
17
ea.
20' length
Concrete Block
400
ea.
8"x 8'x 16'
Masons Cement
22
bags
80 Ib.
Anchor Bolt -Complete w/nut & washer
27
ea.
112'x 18"
Concrete Stab
8
cu. yds. 4'
Welded Wire Mesh
620
sq. ft.
6 x 610/10
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x50'
Gravel
8
cu. yds.
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft.
1/2'x 4"
POURED CONCRETE FOUNDATION (8" x 4')
2500 psi Concrete Footing
4
cu. yds. 16"•x 8"
#5 Rebar
30
ea.
20' length
Foundation Wall
t i
cu. yds. 8" x 4'
Anchor Boit-Complete w/nut & washer
27
ea.
1/2"x 10"
Concrete Slab
8
cu. yds. 4"
6 mil Polyethylene film (vapor barrier)
1
roll
20'x 50'
Welded Wire Mesh
620
sq. ft.
6 x 6-10/10
Gravel
8-
cu. yds.
Expansion Joint
100
lin. ft.
1/2"x 4'
WALL FRAMING
Sill Sealer
1
roll
4"x 100'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
3
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Mudsill (pressure treated)
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Pre-cut wall studs
102
ea.
2 x 4 x 92-5/8"
Double top plate
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Double top plate
7
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Double top plate
6
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Header
4
ea.
2 x 12 x10'
Steel Pipe Column
2
ea.
3" x 8'
Interior L.V.L. Beam
2
ea.
1-3/4"x 9-1/2'x 28'
Blocking
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 10'
Plumb and Line Bracing
8
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
LOFT LEVEL FLOOR
Rim Joists
4
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
End Joists
4
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Floor Joists
39
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Floor Joists
2
ea.
2 x 10 X14'
Solid Blocking
2
ea.
2 x 10 x 14'
T & G Decking
18
ea.
314"x 4' x 8'
Glue
5
qts.
LOFT LEVEL WALL FRAMING
Loft Well Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Loft Wall Studs (includes safety wall at ladder)
19
ea.
2 x 4 x 14•
Front & Rear Wall Studs
17
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Plate
11
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Plate
12
ea.
2 x 4 x 16'
Header ® Cargo Door
1
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Header (Ladder Opening)
1
ea.
2 x 10 x 10'
Dormer Studs (with Dormer)
6
ea.
2 x 4 x V
Dormer Studs (with Dormer)
10
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Cargo Door Framing
6
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
LADDER
Kick Plate (Pressure treated)
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Ladder Rails
2
ea.
2 x lox 12'
Ladder Tread
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
Tread Supports
2
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Rail Posts
3
ea.
4 x 4 x 8'
Hand Rails
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
8
ea.
1/2" x 6'
Carriage Bolt w/Nut and Washer
4
ea.
1/2"x 8"
ROOF FRAMING
Ridge Board
1
ea.
2 x 8 x 10'
Ridge Board
1
ea.
2 x 8 x 12'
Support Ridge Board
2
ea.
2 x 12 x 10'
Upper Rafters
30
ea.
2 x 6 x 10'
" Upper Rafters
18
ea.
2 x 6 x 14'
Lower Rafters
30
ea.
2 x 6 x 10'
Ledger Board
2
ea.
1 x 10 x 12'
Ledger Board
1
ea.
1 x 10 x 16'
Wall Ties
16
ea.
2 x 6 x 16'
Spacer ® Wall Ties
3
ea.
2 x 6 x 12'
Hanger for Wall Ties
8
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Gable Stud
21
ea.
2 x 4 x 8'
Roof Bracing
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
Eave Soffit Framing 0 Dormer
1
ea.
' 1 x 6 x 10'
Eave Soffit Framing ■ Dormer
1
ea.
1 x 6 x 12'
Fascia at Eaves
1
ea.
i x 8 x 10'
Fascia at Eaves
1
ea.
1 x 8 x 12'
Fascia at Eaves
2
ea.
i x 8 x 14'
Fascia at Eaves
2
ea.
1 x 8 x 16'
Fascia at Gable Rake
10
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Plywood Roof Sheathing; incl. header spacers
32
shts.
1/2"x 4' x 8'
Rake Edge
10
pcs.
10'
Drip Edge
12
pos.
10•
15# Roofing Felt
3
rolls
432 s.fJroll
Shingles
32
bridle.
SIDINQ AND TRIM
Flashing above O.H. Door
2
pis.
1-1/2"x 10'
Brickmold Trim ■ O.H. Door
52
lin.ft.
Jamb 0 O.H. Door
4
ea.
1 x 6 x 8'
Jamb ■ O.H. Door
2
ea.
1 x 6 x 10'
Garage Door Stop
4
ea.
1 x 3 x 8'
Garage Door Stop
2
ea.
1 x 3 x 10'
Plywood Siding TI -11
49
shts.
5/8' x 4' x 8'
Z Metal Flashing
8
PCs.
5/8" x 10'
Corner Trim
8
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Corner Trim
2
ea.
i x 4 x 12'
Cargo Door Trim
1
ea.
1 x 4 x 8'
Cargo Door Trim
6
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Nails for T1-11 Siding
34
lbs.
6d Galy.
Frieze Trim at Eaves
7
ea.
1 x 2 x 10'
Frieze Trim at Eaves
1
ea.
1 x 2 x 12'
MWELLANEOUS
Overhead Garage Door
2
ea.
9'x 7'
Window
2
ea.
Approx. 3' x 3'
Header for Window
2
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Flashing above Window
1
pc.
1-1/2"x 10'
Nails for Rough Framing
42
lbs.
16d
Nails for Rough Framing
18
lbs.
10d—
Nails for Roof Sheathing
15
lbs.
6d
Nails for Soffit
1
Ib.
4d. GaIv.
Galvanized Roofing Nails
22
lbs.
1-1/4'
Galvanized Casing Nails for Trim
9
lbs.
6d Galv.
Shim Stock
1
bndl.
Floor Decking Nails
14
lbs.
8d
CARGO'DOOR
Siding T1-11
2
shts.
5/8"x 4' 8'
Framing
4
ea.
2 x 4 x 12'
Trim
6
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Trim Around Opening
2
ea.
1 x 4 x 12'
PERSONNEL DOOR
Pre -Hung Exterior Personnel Door
1
ea.
2'-8" x 6'-8"
Header for Personnel Door
1
ea.
2 x 6 x 8'
Keyed Lockset for Personnel Door
1
ea.
Flashing above Door
WINDS
1
pc.
1-1/2'x 10'
Window
1
ea.
Approx. 3'x 3'
Header for Window
1
ea.
2 x 6 x V
Flashing above Window
1
pc.
1-1/2"x 10'
FLOOR OPTION
Engine Lift Reinforcement
3
ea.
2 x 10 x 12'
OTHER SIDING PACKAGES
Let -in Bracing
14
ea.
1 x 4 x 10'
Front Wall Sheathing
12
shts.
1/2"x 4'x.8'
Lap Siding (10" Exposure) 1540
lin.ft.
12'
Galvanized Siding Nails
33
lbs.
8d GaIv.
Pre -formed Outside Corners
52
ea.
10'
Nails for Wall Sheathing
20
lbs.
6d
Preformed Gutter
8
ea.
10' length
Spikes
38
ea.
24" oc
Ferrules
38
ea.
24' oc
Slip Joint Connectors
7
ea.
Outlet Section
3
ea.
Elbow
9
ea.
Downspout
3
ea.
10' length
Downspout Strap
9
ea.
Right End Cap
3
ea.
Left End Cap
3
ea.
Gutter Seal
1 tubes
Concrete Splash Block
2
ea.
Rivets
1
box
box of 100
VINYL SIDINGAND TRIM
Starter Strip
8
pis.
10'
J -Channel (door & window)
13
pos.
3/4'x12'-6'
Utility Trim (door & window)
4
PCs.
12'-6"
Outside Corner Post
5
pos.
10'
Utility Trim (under save)
7
pcs.
12'-6"
J•CMnnel (gable end/under eave/shed roof)
15
pcs.
3/4"x12'-6"
J -Channel (soffit)
9
pcs.
1/2"x12'-6"
Vented Soffit
2
pcs.
12'-6"
Non -Vented Soffit
1
pcs.
12'-6"
Fascia Cap
9
pcs.
6"x12' -d"
Fascia Cap
5
pcs.
8"x12'-6"
Double 4" Vinyl Siding 144
pis.
(12 sq.)
Galvanized Roofing Nail
12
lbs
1-1/2"
Aluminum Trim Nail
1
Ib.
1-1/4'
GAME OVERIMANGS
Framing for Gable Overhangs
20
ea.
2 x 4 x10'
Framing for Gable Overhangs
2
ea.
2 x 4 x 14'
additional Ply. Roof Sheathing
(required for 1' Gable Overhang)
3
shts.
1/2'x 4'x 8'
additional Frieze Trim
3
ea.
1 x 2 x 8'
additional Frieze Trim
7
ea.
1 x 2 x 10'
additional Soffit Plywood
3
shts.
3/8" x 4' x 8'
GABLE OVERHANGS - VINYL
J -Channel (soffit)
13
pcs.
1002'-6"
Non -Vented Soffit
7
pcs.
12'-6"
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DETAIL B - CONCRETE STEM WALL 8. Beginning with the side walls, lay a mudsill and top plate next to each other on the slab (it makes a great DETAIL U1 - PERSONAL DOOR DETAIL T1 - GARAGE DOOR
• IMPORTANT NOTES work surface!). Hook your tape measure onto the outside edge of the mudsill and plate, and measure in
1/2" DIAX 10"ANCHOR BOLTS _ WALL AT GARAGE and mark 15-1/4 inches (this is the distance to the closest edge of the first stud). Mark an "x" on the side
BUILDER QUALIFICATIONS @4�-o"o.C.EMBEDDED
' This plan is intended for use only by persons knowledgeable in and familiar with generally accepted PER LOCAL CODE of the line where the stud will be placed. Tack a small nail at this 15-1 /4 inch mark; then hook your tape
methods, techniques and standards for construction, and persons who are properly trained and competent in measure onto it and mark off every 16 inches (be sure to place an "x" on the correct side of each mark).
a" CONC. SLAB W/6 X 610/10 WWM This places your 16 inch marks to the side of each stud. Mark each mudsill-plate pair the same way. Be DOUBLE TOP PLATE
the safe operation of all tools and machinery that may be necessary for the construction of this structure.
sure you are consistent with your markings. To mark the stud locations for the side walls, start at the front )�z• PLYWOOD
SHEATHING
` Construction of this garage by any persons without these qualifications should NOT be attempted. of the building and work towards the back. To mark locations for the front and back walls, work in the 2 X 4 CRIPPLE STUDS @ 16' o.c. ---_
same direction for both. Later, when a I in sidin or roof sheathin ,start from these same locations. 2- 2 x 6 HEADER 2-2 x 4
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS pp Y g g g
Concrete footings must be placed in undisturbed soil that has a minimum load bearing capacity of 2000 = ° • ° ° This keeps the rafters and studs aligned and minimizes waste when installing siding and sheathing.
DOUBLE TOP PLATE
1/2' PLYWOOD SPACER
• . p.s.f. Loft floors are designed for a live load of 40 pounds and a dead load of 10 pounds. Garage roofs have • 9. If you are installing the optional window and/or personnel door, include them when laying out the mudsill 2 x 4 CRIPPLE sruos
,I t' i i j ���� y� �'i- - 6 Jf�j: 1CY�:: i FLASHING
been designed to carry a total load (i.e., live load plus dead load) of 27 p.s.f. However, the roof load bearing ,(, t� II ( . _ .j, and plate. Doors are relatively standard in size, but you will need to use the rough opening sizes supplied SHIM BETWEEN HEADER AND @ 16" O.C.
capacity can be changed by altering the size and spacing of rafter members (and certain garage door head- it+ 1.! ��` _ 6 MIL. POLY VAPOR BARRIER
by the particular manufacturer when cutting and assembling the window header and determining the posi- DooR FRAME @,6• o.c. ort As REo'o.
ers) as directed in the "Rafter Load" table within the plans. These plans make no special provisions for high � - ! ! , 111 � 4" SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE w tion of the sill. To lay out the window, first locate the center of the opening. Measure 1/2 the suggested
'• wind conditions. Additional materials and/or altered construction techniques may be required to meet local I`I' ? g rough opening width to either side of this center mark. These two points establish the inside face of the PERsoNNEL000R
-FIEADER
F - ' JACK STUD UNDER HEADER /
conditions and requirements. ° ° o w jack studs. Measure an additional 1 1/2 inches from each of these points to define the inside face of the
SLOPE GRADE AWAY 1/2" EXPANSION JOINT CC o full height stud which attaches to either side of the header. Double check: The distance between the full FULL HEIGHT STUD
DIMENSIONS• FROM FOUNDATION W 'L O
Written dimensions shall take precedence over scale dimensions. Do not scale drawings. IN FIRST 8'-o" (TYR) C o height studs should be the length of the header (which is the window rough opening width plus 3 inches). I �r2'sNEATHING
e" POURED CONCRETE WALL o a Be sure and include the normal 16 inch on center layouts on mudsill and top plate; the cripple studs above SHIM AS REO'D.
ERRORS AND OMISSIONS W/#5 REBARS VERT. A 4'-W O.C.
While every attempt has been made to produce a perfect set of plans for this project, there always exists ° W/ (a) #5 KEBABS HORIZ. - - 3 o the header and below the sill follow this layout. Use a similar technique if you are installing the optional I t X 6 FRAME 2 X 4 BLOCKING
a small possibility for errors. Consequently, it is vitally important that the. builder carefully review and check o Y personnel door, but don't bother to include the 16 inch on center layout marks on the mudsill.
m i 10. After the stud locations are marked, spread the mudsill and plate apart, keeping the mudsill near its final
all details and information on this plan including dimensioning and material quantities. Responsibility for the o U location. Lay all of the studs in place between them. Assemble the double 2x4 corner post by puttin <
interpretation of the plans in conjunction with the materials list, must lie with the, builder. However, an errors g FLASHING-
2 X 4 WINDOW SILL ��
Y ° #5 X 18 DOWELS @ 9-0" o C. three blocks (1 at the top, 1 at the bottom, and 1 in the middle) between two 2x4 studs. Nail this unit
or omissions found should be reported immediately to the Garlinghouse Company Technical Services
together with 16d nails. (See Detail "F".) 2 X 4 CRIPPLE STUDS @ 16' O.C. OUBLE JACK STUDS
Department at (860) 659-5667 174 Oakwood Drive, Glastonbury, CT 06033 ° � - 11. With two 16d nails at each location, nail through the face of the mudsill and top plate into the end of each UNDER HEADER
GENERAL MATERIALS SPECIFICATIONS ° stud. ULLHEIGHTSTUD
All lumber used in these garages must have a minimum Modulus of Elasticity (E) of 1.4 x 106 and Fiber . • 12. If you have opted for the window and/or personnel door, frame as shown on the plans. (See Details "Ui" SECTIONAL ROLL•UP .
y GARAGE DOOR
,• Stress in Bending factor (Fb) of 875 p.s.i. BASE VALUE. Moisture content of the lumber is not to exceed ° and "V1".) Be sure to install the headers so the bottom is 6 foot - 10-3/4 inches above the floor, not the DETAIL V1 - WINDOW
19%. Footings require concrete with a minimum compressive strength of 2500 p.s.i. All bolts and other ° `D bottom of the wall. Remember: the header length equals the rough opening width plus a jack stud at either x 4 BLOCKING
(FULL HEIGHT)
. metal connectors must be of hot dipped galvanized steel. Windows, doors and other manufactured products side (Rough opening + 3 inches). Install the cripple studs after the window sill is in place.
are to be installed according to manufacturer's specifications. No allowance has been made for temporary
2 #5 REBARS CONT. 13. For ease of installation (and to keep the wall from flexing as you stand it up) install the second top plate (to 1 X 6 JAMB TRIM
bracing, batter board material, beam bearing plates and saddle, paint and stain or associated sundries in the 1'-4• create a double top plate). Any joints in the second top plate should be at least 32 inches away from joints 23. After all wall frames are up, use a level and adjust the braces as necessary to plumb each corner. Install
materials list. in the top plate. For the side walls, the second top plate stops 3-1/2 inches from each end of the wall, RICK MOLD
allowin the double to late of the front and rear walls to overla temporary diagonal braces on the inside faces of the walls (a 2x4 laid flat against the studs and nailed to
NOTE: Any garage design chosen which calls for rafters or trusses at 24 inches on center, will require 1/2 9 P P p, tying the walls together..Fasten the the top plate and mudsill).
second top plate on with a pair of 10d nails every 12 inches. (See Detail "F".) 24. Notch the outer ed b. Measure from the outside face of the side wall and mark locations for the two members of the header
gas of studs at an angle to accept the let -in braces (diagonal wall braces) as required.
inch plywood clips at all plywood joints at each midspan between rafters. DETAIL C - CONCRETE BLOCK STEM WALL . . (See Detail "F".) Place the let -in brace across the studs at the angle shown and mark where it crosses I which defines the length of the ladder opening. Cut these members to fit exactly between the end
DETAIL KK - BOLLARD & BEAM POST each stud. Set your circular saw to cut slightly deeper than the brace, and run it across each mark. At the joist and the floor joist. Cut three pieces this length, the third will be used in Step E. Install the first
These plans can be used to build a "Gambrel" style garage, with an upstairs loft, an optional Shed dorm , an FILL TOP 2 COURSES BEARING PLATE & SADDLE mudsill, you may need to use a chisel to remove the material. Lay the let -in brace into the notch, making piece of this header (the piece which fits against the end of the cantilevered joists), face nailing
• . optional front cargo door, and an optional beam for an engine lift. Several sizes are included in these p nS: WALL AT GARAGE W/GROUT AT BOLTS
sure the wall is still square, and attach the brace with two 8d nails at each stud. through the end joist and floor joist with four 16d nails at each location.
NOTE: There are several equally acceptable, bracing alternatives which maybe used. Several styles of metal c. Cut and install the cantilevered joists, fastening them to the rim joist in the same manner as the other
• 22' wide x 26' deep; • 24' wide x 28' deep; 1/2" ExPi4NSION JOINT BEAM SUPPORT POST bracing (which require only one or two saw cuts instead of a large notch) are readily available. Plywood joists, toenailing them to the beam with three 8d nails, and face nailing through the header board with
• 22' wide X 28' deep; • 24' wide X 30' dee SLOPE GRADE AWAY 4• CONC. SLAB W/6 X 610/10 WWM , three 16d face nails into each joist.
P; FROM FOUNDATION 8" sheathing or plywood siding also works very well: if you are using lap siding with 1/2 inch sheathing, use a d. Fasten the second member of the header in lace nailin
,. • 24' wide x 32' deep; IN FIRST 8'-0" (rYR) TYPICAL BOLLARD POST sheet of 1/2 inch plywood at each end of each wall. If you are using plywood siding (such as 5/8 inch T1-11) P ( gas described in Steps (b) and p above).
the siding itself is sufficient and other bracing is not necessary (because of the grooves cut into it, 3/8 inch T1- e. At the side wall, a third header member sets on the wall, flush with the inside face, to support the
• Standard construction is 8' tall main walls with two 9' wide x 7' high single garage doors. The 22' wi a garages K ° 0 11 is not thick enough and additional bracing is required). bearing plate for the rafters. Face nail it in place with four 16d nails through the end joist and through
have a 15' wide loft space with T tall side walls. The 24' wide garages have a 17' wide loft space w th 8 - 1-1 /8 o q - _ o o 1/2" DIA. X 16' ANCHOR BOLTS @ 4' �� 25. Once the corner bracing is installed, the temporary braces at each end can be removed and used to align the floor joist, and toenail it to the top plate of the wall with a 16d nail every 12 inches. There is a 1 /2
inch tall side walls. O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE the walls: Using a ladder, sight from one corner to the other along the top plate. Use the center brace to inch gap between this piece and the rim joist; using a.scrap of 1/2 inch plywood as a spacer will make
FILL TOP 6" W/CONCRETE move the wall in or out, adding additional temporary braces as necessary to completely straighten the wall installation easier.
ORGANIZATION OF THESE PLANS o f. Install the second floor oist, nailin it to the first joist S
Because this set of drawings contains full plans for garages in several optional sizes, you will ne d to locate ¢ � 6 MIL VAPOR BARRIER and hold it in place. (If the walls bow in or out, the rafters won't fit properly.) 1 9 � ' (tap 9-a) with a row of three 16d nails every 18
the foundation plans, framing plans, elevations, roof sheathing details, rafter template and the cross- action w �a• SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE 26. Unless ou are usin I inches and fastening it to the rim joist and beam in the typical manner. Make sure the ends of the
o z I Y g p ywood siding that is it least 5/8 inches thick apply 1/2 inch plywood sheathing to nails don't protrude into the ladder opening. At the rear wall, a second end- oist member sets flush
that pertain to the specific garage you intend to build and disregard the other drawings. O - the front garage wall. This is important; the large openings in the front wall make it impractical to install 1
0 - #5 AT W O.C. FILL BLKS SOLID ( FILL POST W/SAND let -in bracing. Plywood sheathing provides the necessary resistance to "racking", keeping the wall plumb. with the inside face of the wall (and fits between the members installed in Steps 9-d and 9-e). Toenail
Full framing elevations are shown for each garage size. Separate elevations are NOT included fo each m w W/CONC. AT VERT. #5 I Use 6d nails spaced 6 inches in center into each stud, and into the top plate and mudsill. Be certain the it to the top plate of the wall with 16d nails every 12 inches, and toenail into the headers at either end
. garage size. All garage elevations are provided only as "typical" examples. Z
There is a separate materials list for each garage size option. Quantities are given in the units sho n. b F = i wall is perfectly plumb first; once the plywood is nailed in place adjustments are not possible. with three 16d nails. There will be a 1/2 inch gap between this member and the end joist; use a 1/2
PI wood T1-11 sidin and two 9 foot wide ara a doors ares ecified in the materials list as standard. ¢ '4 B• C 90 CONC. BLK (# OF COURSES ! inch plywood spacer during installation.
Y g g g P 4" X 2" CONT KEY DETERMNJED BY FROST LINE)
FRAMING THE LOFT FLOOR 10. If you are building the optional dormer, install the additional joists required under the front dormer wall at
Materials for other optional features are contained in separate add-on materials lists at the end of each t le. a U. • •.
Use extra care and caution when working on the second floor loft, especially at the edges of the building. this time.
GENERAL GARAGE INSTRUCTIONS . .. < -CONCRETE FLOOR SLAB Consider installing temporary guard rails or scaffolding around the second floor perimeter of the building to pro- 11. Once all of the joists are in place, install the solid blockin as shown on the tans See
�a
Read through the entire instructions before beginning construction of your garage. You may want to pur- o o #5 DOWELS @ 4'-0" o.C. o o :I . •_.. ; ; • • • tett against falling from the building during construction. Such items are usually available from equipment g P ( Detail "CC".)
o ' I:- • ! I . The blocking should be directly over the beam and fit tightly in place between joists. Use three 16d nails
• chase a good reference book to supplement these plans. Although these instructions are clear, concise, and as • O 0. • I. ' i I • rental companies.
o ; I. I at every connection.
comprehensive as possible for the limited space available, they are not meant to be the last word on the gener- , L J . <° ,. , . .: The basic components which make up the floor system are: floor joists (the horizontal framing members) INSTALLING THE PLYWOOD DECKING
al principles of building a garage. 16" x a" FTG. W/ (2) #5 CONT . • � : I 1. • ; A 1111 and plywood decking (the actual surface of the floor). At the outside walls, the joists are nailed to a rim joist; at
The basic foundation plan for each width shows the overall dimensions and anchor bolt locations typical for ° I I - the beam, solid blockin Is installed between the joists. Headers, double members are installed around the After the floor framing is in place, the 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood floor decking can be installed.
all walls, as well as the location of the support beam for the second floor loft. A separate foundation plan seg- -� EMBED IN CONCRETE 9 1 ( )
NOTE: When setting the plywood in place, make certain the joists remain straight and maintain their 16 inch
opening for the ladder. Refer to the Loft Floor Framing plans. (See Details "CC" and "DD".) y g y the next row of plywood may not fit correctly- Instead of end-
ment contained with the loft floor framing plans show the correct size and spacing for the specific beam(s), DETAIL D - MONOLITHIC SLA$ WITH CURB CONCRETE FOOTING A Floor Framing Plan is included with these plans showing where the framing members are located. on center la out. If the bisis bow sli htl off-line,
posts and footings required for each depth option. The beams shown on the plans consist of two L.V.L. members. Each beam member must span the full dis- ing at the center of the joist the sheets may fall short or extend past Take extra care to get the first sheets in
Decide which ara a size and o tions ou want to use. Then, on the plans, circle the drawings and details 1/2• DIA X 18" ANCHOR BOLT 0 SLOPE GRADE AWAY tante between supports. Beam members may span more than one segment between supports, but any joint exactly the right place, then hook your tape at the end of each sheet, and make a mark every 16 inches. This
P Y
9 9 14.
With a helper or two, "walk pl each wall frame and lift the unit onto the anchor bolts. Since the anchors should be the center of your joists. When nailing the plywood in place, don't put nails along the edge until the
you'll need to refer to. Get answers to any questions that arise before you begin work. Once the foundation is a�-o" O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE FROM FOUNDATION @ 8" must fall on a su ort
pp post. Additionally, joints can not fall on adjacent members, they should alternate
' in place, two professional carpenters could probably erect this garage (including siding and shingles) in 5 to 7
IN FIRST8!Ar (TYP.) alone can't hold the walls in place, nail three 2x4's to the sides of the studs, just below the top plate (one at between inside and outside members for three iece beams or alternate between left and ri ht members for next row of plywood is installed, then add the missing nails. If you nail the edge of the sheet down too tightly,
D endin on our skill level Ian to s end 3 or 4 times Ion er buildin it ourself. For additional hal each end, the other in the center), to act as temporary bracing. Rest the ends of the bracing on the P g you may have trouble getting the tongues and grooves together when installing the next row.
days ep g y p p g 9 Y P two piece beams. (See The Column and Footing Configuration Detail for beam sizes.)
consult with your lumberyard. 8" CONCRETE BL D WITH MORTAR ground. Tilt the walls out so they're 1 inch out of plumb (to make it easier to set the front and back walls in Here is the procedure for installing the second floor loft: 1. To keep the decking straight and square, measure 48 inches from the outside face of the right side wall
place); then stake the free ends of the bracing to the ground. Put the washers and nuts on the anchor 1. Glue and nail the beam members together using a row of three 16d nails every 12 inches. Do this from along the end joists at the front and rear of the building. Snap a chalkline across the top of the joists
• • . IMPORTANT NOTE: When using 16d nails, please be aware that the heti or tip o the nail may penetrate s x s 10/10 bolts, but don't tighten them.
each side, sta erin the rows so the nails from one side fall in-between the rows on the o osite side. between these two marks. Install the first roW of decking using this chalkline as a guide, starting at the
•• through the material that you are working with. Bend over all nail tip penetrations for safety reasons. � 15. Frame the front and back walls. Follow the rocedure for the side walls
_ p Ceps 8-13) except locate the first 2. If necessary, aw th ough and remove the double top plate where it crosses the beam pocket. front of the building and working towards the rear.
LOCATING THE GARAGE stud 11-3/4 inches from the end of the mudsill or plate. This allows for the thickness of the side wall so the 3. Set the beam in lace, mak' sure it is level and strai ht. Shims ma be necessa tom h 2 �onf-�t Installing rows of plywood, working towards the left side of the building. Remember that each
Two important factors in choosing your garage location are driveway access and local code restrictions for stud layout begins at the comer of the building, where the sheathing and siding layout starts (11 3/4 inches P g Y ry tike t e beam fit
snugly in the beam pockets in the walls, or to make minor adjustments in height. The beams must bo fas- end of the plywood must fall at the center of a joist, and that joints between sheets in adjacent rows should
side and rear building setbacks from your property lines. Check with your building inspector for setback plus 3-1/2 inches equals 15-1/4 inches). tened to the posts. At the rear wall, face nail through the full height studs on either side of the beam with - be staggered so they don't fall on the same joist. Just before laying each sheet of plywood in lace, a I
P PP Y
• requirements and any other restrictions. +; 4 ° o ° I • \ 16. The front and rear walls each have a beam support post made of three sit)# cut to the correct height and four 16d nails from each side. At the front wall the beam fits snu I betty en he h a bead of construction adhesive to those joists under that sheet. Nail the lywood floor deckin to each
If the garage cannot be built in line with your driveway, be sure to allow sufficient swing for your vehicle to _ ) . I .�� nailed to ether. At the rear wall, a full hei ht stud is nailed to either side 01 this ost creatin a " ocket" 9 Y e t eaders for the over- P g
` g 9 P 9 P head doors: toenail through each side of each header with five 16d nails. (See Detail "RR".) For the joist with 8d nails every 8 inches.
curve throu h the door. If a ve Ion drivewa makes it im ractical to back out to the street which is i al in '> ` s I for the beam. See Detail "CC" as well as the Front and Rear Framin Elevations on the lans . The
g rY 9 Y P ( 6 MIL POLY VAPOR BAR . , • f I • i ( P ) steel posts there are various acceptable methods, depending on the posts supplied; talk with the post sup- BUILDING THE LADDER
Som locations!!), plan for aturn-around area beside the garage. ��. . top of the beam must set flush with the top of the double top plates. To find the correct length for cutting tier for their recommendations. If ou find it difficult to urcha e h - IMPORTANT SAFETY T
:�� S t e net NO E• T r
Once ou have settled on a location, make sure there are no underground obstacles such as utility lines, 1 4 the studs which form the beam support st, use two ieces of scr 2x4 to simulate the double to late P y P essary components, we recom o p oiect against children or other unauthorized persons from climbing onto
Y SAND CUSHION OR CRU D STONE a Po P aP P P mend having a local machine shop or welder fabricate the bearing plate for you, and pre -drill the neces- the loft floor before the walls and handrails are in place, consider using an extension ladder or other temporary
sewers or septic tanks. Check for trouble overhead as well: electric, phone or cable lines that may be in the - -9' • and, holding them in position at the top of the studs, measure down the depth of the beam. To make each
sary holes. A 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/2 inch steel bearing plate for the top of the post, with 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/4 means of access to the loft which can be removed when you are not on-site and working on the garage, install
way or dangerously close, both during construction and once your garage is built. Call your local utility compa- post, nail two 2x4's together with a pair of 1 Od nails every 12 inches. Add the additional members one inch uprights welded at either side, formin a "saddle" for the beam to rest in works well and holds the the permanent ladder once the walls are in lace and covered wi h
iece at a time, nailin them in the same manner. Note: To sim ll constliuction and make settin the wall g P t paneling, drywall,.or
plywood.
Hies for assistance and advice. Get a permit from the building inspector s office, if required. a) #5 KEBABS w✓#s TIES @ 24 O.C. P g Pty g beam securely. (See Detail "KK".) The bearing plate can either be welded to the top of the post, or have The ladder for getting to the loft is built using a 2x6 pressure treated kick plate, 2x10 ladder rails, 2x10
START TIES HERE 12' FROM CORNERS in place easier, install the top plates without interruption, as though there were no beam pocket. This g g P P pp P g p p pp posts and 2x4 safe rails. See Detail "DD". De endin on founda-
TOOLS LIST UNDISTLIRiBEDSOILOR a short len th of lar er diameter i e welded to the bottom which will fit outside the su ort ost, holdin Ste s, Ste su orts cut from a 2x8, 4x4 ty ( ) P g
12" WELL �D FILL makes the wall much stiffer and easier to handle; later, when it is time to set the beam, saw through and the unit in place. If the saddle is wider than the beam, add shims to create a tight fit. Use 16d nails to fas- tion choices and construction techniques, the distance between the floor of the garage and the top of the loft
Here r' a basic list of the tools you'll need for this project: >s< BEAM 1 remove that portion of the plates which obstructs the beam pocket. ten each beam to the saddle. floor may vary by several inches. The ladder plan shown may need to be modified so the distance between
Carpenter's apron Paint brushes, sandpaper 17. Stand the rear wall in lace usin braces to su ort it. At each corner, each step is identical. The ladder measurements shown on the plan only app! if the actual buildin is exactl
Framing square Safety goggles Your contractor should be responsible forj setting any forms necessary• pouring the concrete for the founds- P � 9 PP mlaks)! sure that both walls are set Y g Y
• Hammer Sawhorses firmly down on the foundation and the top plates are even with one anotll>hr, then fasten the walls t ether
tion, post footings) and floor, and setting anchor belts and beam support posts) in place. (See Detail °g DETAIL CC -LOFT FLOOR CONSTRUCTION the size shown on the plans. Any difference between the building and tans will re uire adjustments be made
Car enter's encil Saws crosscut and ri „ by face nailing through the sin le stud into the corner ost with a air of I6d ails eve 12 inches. Start P q
p p ( P) E .) To protect the beam support post the py of being hd by a car, we atgpest plating 4 inch g P P � ry to the dimensions for the ladder. FIELD VERIFY ALL MEASUREMENTS BEFORE CONSTRUCTING THE
Chalkline Screwdrivers (for door hinges, other hardware) diameter concrete -filled steel posts, calved lards", arouind the berm support post; two Bollards at every side near the bottom and work up; pushing or pulling on the single stud as n ssary to align the corner. You LADDER. Here is the procedure:
Chisel Tape measure (retractable, 20 foot minimum) of the t on which a car ma drive. uld be imbedded in 12 inches of con rete and extend at least may need to loosen some of the braces holding the walls up during this ocess; be sure and re -secure
y They these braces before roc g p 1 jo statott etinsidef ace of the s de wall shou d be 33 feet, 8 1/2 inches), f nd t'stce tern, and (mreasure 15uble
Drill and bits Tape measure (reel, for lay out, 50 foot minimum) 36 inches above the floor. (See De1pi1 .) If you are using the monolithic slab with a block curb, extra core 1 g, After the comers aref est nedlnt t ethern nsta I the second to late on th i rear wall. An oints in the sec- inches to either side of center. Usi these marks install h
• Felt-tip pen Tri -square and planning will be required to get the r bolts in the correct position so they don't interfere with laying the o9 P P Y j • .
Knife (for cutting roofing felt) Wrench (adjustable crescent) block, and are set at the r hei ht for hin the mudsill. and top plate should be at least 32 inches away from joints in the top pl- . At the wall intersections, the ee t t posts, making sure there are 30 inches (the
P g g' second t late overla s width of the ladder assembly) between them. Each post bolts to the double joist header with two 1/2 inch
Level (4 foot preferred, 2 foot minimum) Power circular saw Once the foundation has set accon�ng the cohtra�r's reconwriandations, repiace the soil that was dis- oP P pat the corner joints to tie the frames together. tote r the second top plate, x 8 inch carriage bolts. Use a flat washer and lock washer with every nut.
Mason's string line turbed while constructing the foundation; trenches and piles of dirt can slow the construction process and using a pair of 10d nails every 12 inches, and three 16d nails at the corn ' overlap. (See Detail F".) 2. Assemble the basic ladder frame. Cut the kick plate to 30 inches, then cut the ladder rails as shown in the
• 19. Assemble the garage door headers (a 1/2 inch plywood spacer sandwic lietween two 2x12 s). (See plans so they fit on top of the kick plate. Face nail through the kick plate into each ladder rail with three
be very hazardous. Detail "T1".) Make sure the ends of all the boards are flush with each o er. To nail the boards together, 16d nails. Stand the unit in place and fasten by nailing through each ladder rail into its associated post
'LAYING OUT THE GARAGE when the area around�the garage has pre�ered and the tAoer slab has hardened sufficerlltiy to work • - • '
This is the most critical step of your garage construction. In order for the roof to fit well, the garage must be on, mark the inside edges of the garage wal using a chalkline. Check for square by measuring the diagonals use three 16d nails, one about 2 inches from the top of the header, one ut 2 inches from the bottom of
with four 16d nails. Fasten the kick plate to the floor with construction adhesive and at least three fasten-
, the header
and one in the c
enter. Do hi v inch I I
t s e e 12 es a on the en h f the header a i
ry 9 ,
st rt n and
Th urs II lines ff the re
9
- e 4 co rs uld etch . en makes the wa are
betty en the me sho re not.
' will h r like a well Y adjust
r e ro erl and tt oto et a (�Y I parallel
square, level, and built to exact dimensions. Lay out the ga ag p p y, g g ending about 6 inches from either end. Tum the header over, and repea � nailing procedure from the ers designed for concrete (ex. cut nails, concrete nails, or some form of powder actuated fastener).
�• made jigsaw puzzle. Do it wrong, however, and you'll still feel like you're putting together a puzzle - but with the wall markings as necessary; it is a for the wall to protrude slightly (up to 1/4 uRch) outside the other side. P 9 P Y
PLYWOOD DECKING 3. Work from _the bottom u Installin the Ste s Once ou have determined the correct distance between
• : mismatched pieces! foundation in order to correct any irrequ in the foundation.
each step for your garage, cut a step support to size, and use it as a pattern for all the rest. Face nail
Note: If you plan to hire a concrete contractor to pour the foundation of your garage; laying out the garage and 20. To frame the frot wall, follow the same basic procedure for the side wall ( eps 8-13) and rear walls
`" through each step support into the ladder rail with four Sd nails, then set the step on top of the support and
DETAIL E - FOUNDATION`AT ORWAY (Steps 15-18), making the necessary adjustments to include the layout f ful doors and the beam sup- FLOOR JOIST • use two 16d face nails through the step into the support and two toenails through the step into the ladder
building the forms can be included in the contractors duties. port post. The bottom plates are three separate pieces, and there is only fall height stud along one side rail.
Here is the procedure: (the outside) of each header. The beam fits tightly between the two hes gat their inside ends. As with
1. Drive stakes into the ground to approximately mark the placement of one corner and two adjacent sides of 2 x a STuose ts• o.C. the rear wall, it will be much easier to handle and set the wall in place if t 1Dp plate is installed as an 4. Fasten each of the lower and middle 4x4 posts to the ladder rails with two 1 /2 inch x 6 inch carriage bolts
(using washers and lock washers as described above).
the garage. uninterrupted member. Remember: when setting the header in position putting the jack studs to SOLID DECKING 5. N2iil'N1e 2x4 safety rails to the posts with three 16d nails at each connection. The safet rails run exactl
2. Make batter boards, using 2x4 stakes and a 2x4 cross -piece (make sure the cross -piece is nailed level). length, calculate the height for the header from the floor of the garage, nod ist the bottom of the mudsill. Y Y
. Batter boards make it eas to adjust the strip lines used to recisel la out the ars e, and ensure the 2 x 4 TREAT®MUDSILL (LINE UPOUTStDE
y I g P Y y g g When assemblin the wall, nail the ack studs to the full-hei ht studs and!#* second ack stud to the first BEAM para8el to the ladder rails; the top surface of the upper rails should be 30 inches (measured vertically)
garage is square. DGE FLUSH wrTHFACE OF g j g ( j )
• 3. Drive the batter boards into the ground about 2 feet outside the stakes marking the corner. (See Detail with a pair of 16d nails every 12 inches. Nail the support post for the beats as in Step 16 (the header jack above the front ed a of each ste . Place the lower rail pp
g p equidistant between the u er rail and the ladder
studs are considered additional rail. The unprotected opeNng in the floor for the ladder could be very hazardous. USE EXTREME CAU -
1R' DIA. ANCFIOR BOLTS (FEF7=R i0•FOUNDATiON post members In this SltUatiOn). DOUBLE WALL PLATE TION until the 42 inch high wall is built. (See FRAMING THE LOFT WALLS).
"A"•) PLAN FOR SPACING) 21. To install the header, nail through the full height stud with three 16d nails itsothe end of each 2x header
4. Estimate the location of the remaining 3 corners, and construct batter boards for each one. board ,and toenail through the face of each jack stud into the bottom of the treader with two 16d nails from WALL STUD FRAMMNG THE LOFT WALLS
k h ex t location of the ora walls.
5. Run string lines between the batter boards to mar t e ac g ge - r' . - SILL SEALER either side. (See Detail 'T1 ".) Once the beam is in place, toenail through the header into the beam using Althoue,}ji there are some differences (no anchor bolts, treated mudsills are replaced by bottom plates, differ-
„ 6. To get the layout perfectly square, use the 3-4-5 method at each corner..Starting in one comer at the inter- .•N - = 41 . i two 16d nails from each side of each header. s/a• SHIM er►t stud (lengths, etc.), the same basic techniques for layout, assembly sequence and nailing described in
section of two of the string lines, measure 3 feet along one line and 4 feet along the other. Using a felt- •• • 1
_ S 22. Repeat Steps 17 and 18 for the front wall. Because the headers make th fl nt wall quite heavy, you may
tipped pen, mark both of these measurements. Then measure diagonally between the marks. If the Cor- n wish to put them in place after the wall is standing. To make sure everyth' will fit just right, set all of the BEAM SUPPORT POST
ner is perfectly square, the diagonal distance between these two points will be exactly 5 feet. I DETAIL DD - LADDER
components for the wall in place while it is laying on the ground. Nail the ds to their bottom plates, cre-
7. Double-check for square by measuring diagonally between each pair of corners. The measurements _ sting left, right, and ceter wall units. Set these in place on the foundatio ,bracing them securely so they 4. Using the same basic method as in Step 8 of Framing The Walls, mark the joist layout on top of the double
should be equal. If they're not, recheck your corners using the 3-4-5 method. - �M DO�FOUNDATION Will not fall over. Set each header in lace then toenail the cri le studs
•: . . < p pp required) above them. Once lates and beam. The oast la out for the left and ri
8. On the batter boards, use a felt-tip pen to mark the final location of the nails holding the string lines. That • :"• :.: l�DooR OPENING P 1 Y ght sides are offset so the joists can lap across the
the headers and all of the studs are in position, nail the top plates on. beam and lay next to one another. At the right side, the first joist is set so it's center is exactly 16 inches
4 X 4 POST
way, if a nail pulls loose, you can easily replace it. As you work, it may be easier to take the strings down, .. OpseARAGE DOOR OPErrIG from the front of the ora e; at the left side, the first joist is set with it's center 14-1/2 inches from the front.
g g ) PLYWOOD DECKING
but you should replace them periodically to check your progress. _,- '_- . The remaining joists for each side are set at 16 inch centers relative to the first one.
THE FOUNDATION AND FLOOR :: � OMCRETEGARIMEFLOORSLAB DETAIL F- WALL CONSTRUCTION
There are a variety of foundations, concrete stem wall, concrete block stem wall, or monolithic slab, that are 5. Include the ladder opening in the layout, using the dimensions on the plans. Along the two sides of the
ladder o enin defined b walls, the rim joist and end joist set flush with the outside face In their normal
• appropriate for a garage. (See Details "B", "C", and "D" ) Consult with your lumberyard to help you decide '"►'� r.�JeI�ED GRIgfELBELOW BLAB 2 x a s TOP PLATE P g Y I I ( FLOOR JOIST
(OVER THE TOP PLATE OF THE OTHER WALL) manner); the double header members set flush with the inside face of the wall (leaving a 1 /2 inch gap
M �- SOLID BLOCKING
which foundation is best for your situation. -f � between members).
Because the foundation is critical to a properly built garage, and because a properly built foundation NOTE: IF THERE IS A CONFLICT B THBR BOs7 AND 6. Starting at one corner, install the rim joists (and end joists) on top of the walls. Set the rim joist flush with .
depends on a number of factors (concrete mix, depth, setting time, etc.), we recommend you hire a concrete Tl E STUD LOCATION, RECESS T AND VO19M INTO IOD 2 X a TO PLATE OR PLATE the outside face of the wall and toenail it to the double top plate with a 16d nail every 16 inches. Continue
contractor for this work. Check with your lumberyard for referrals or look in the yellow pages under CUTOFF THE ANCHOR BOLT FLU THE*OPOFTHE
I around the building, butting the ends of the boards tightly together and fastening the joint with one toenail •
"Contractors - Concrete". 2 x a s IDS@ 1s" O.C. from the top. Intersections between the rim joist members should occur at the center of a joist.
FRAMING THE WALLS 7. If desired, a four member joist may be installed to accommodate a hoist, or boat lift, etc. This four member tA N
a8 lame basic methodg 1 X 4 LE BRACING
Generally, walls are constnx�ed laying arta they shod up fells, a unit The (NAIL TOEAgi STUD WITH 2 -10D NAILS) joist can accommodate 1,000 pounds, and must be placed so it is directly over a beam support post. (Be
BEAM
sure and install a total of four studs in the wall under the outside end of the beam). The four member joist `
• DETAIL A -LAYING OUT GARAGE will also be used for building the second floc oft wallwNh a fe11r ' ' ns (ie. Ere trebled multlti b /
replaced by a bottom plate, there are no bolts, 0m). The bit WIW right We walls NOW t o en*e I shoud be nailed together in the same manner as the beam. (See Step 1.) JOIST HEADER Z -
length of the foundation and have comer at eachAmd. Frame wo erect tele two wlrs first. then frame NOTE: The materials list calls out 3 2x10 members for the beam, add these three members to an existing joist
the front and rear walls. Lay out and cut the mludeills and top plates (Mps 1 - 9) for all of the walls before to make up the optional beam. 1 4 x 4 POST
STRING ) Pe square or framing square to transfer the joist layout to
beginning the actual constnrlction. Follow basic silep6: NOTCH S1rUDS 3/4" DEEP 8. After the rim joists are installed, use a Car tars
1. Cut 2x4 pressure -treated lumber to I for each nwrd$K The Irafdsills for the ttwo side walls didend the FOR L -IN BRACE -SIZE TO FIT SNUG the insde face of the rim joist. Use these lines as a guide for installing the joists so they are vertical. As .
. . � `�� � entire length of the foundation, the front back waft Y AI fit b4misin them. If more then one board is you install each joist, hold it up and site along it's length. Lumber is seldom perfectly straight, you will
used to achieve the necessary length= itetsedlion mast OOCIR Nit the CSRlnlier d a stud. (This abo holds DOUBL 0X 4 STUD CORNER POST probably notice a slight bow or "crown" in each board. Be sure to set each board in place with it's "crown" -s SAFETY RAILS
OUTLINE OF GARAGE true for the top plate.)
� 2 X 4 BLpClpNG up. Any sag it develops will tend to make the board straighter, instead of creating a dip in the floor. Fasten
. � 2. Position a mudsill on top of each line of baba so that the inside edge of the mudsiN b flush wills the each joist by face nailing through the rim joist with three 16d nails and toenailing it to the beam with two 8d LADDER RAIL
•• �� - � 5- � `� chalkline created in the Foundation and secdom 2 X 4 MU (PRESSURE TREATED) toenails. a x a POST
4. - 3. Mark each surface of the mudsill to i top, inside, and ottf/ilile• NOTE: Make sure the outside rim joist is straight before nailing the joists to the beam. The left and right joists STEP SUPPORT
. �. \ 3' _ , - ` 4. Tap the mudsill above each bolt with a mer. Thb puts a ample on the underneath side which marks u2" � ANCHOR BOLTS set next to one another on the beam; nail them together with four 16d face nails.
- drilling locations for each bolt. R M WIT 2"OFTHE CORNER 9. At the stair opening, components must be installed in the following sequence: STEP
BATTER BOARD 5. Drill a 5/8 inch hole at each dimple. _'-' '. a. Install the floor joist which defines the width of the ladder opening, locating it as shown on the plans to
6. Reposition the mudsill to check hole pl8bemet. Do rat bolt in place, however. create the proper width rough opening. Nail it to the rim joist and beam in the same manner as the KICK PLATE
STAKES
7. Cut the top plates to length (they will be'the same length 8S the mudsNb) and mark for top, side, etc. Oter jOIS(S. (PRESSURE TREATED)
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DETAIL RR - UPPER LOFT CONSTRUCTION
2 X 6 HAi\
2X6WAL
GABLE:
DORMER RAI
. WII
DOUBLE TOP
0UPPORT RIDGE BEAM
ANTILEVER VISOR FRAMING
PPER RAFTER
OUBLE TOP PLATE
OWER RAFTER
TABLE STUD
? X'4 STUDS @ 16" O.C.
(2) 2 X 12 HEADER
(2) � X 8 HEADER
ANdLED JAMB
3/4" T & G PLYWOOD SUBFLOOR
BEAM
(3) 2 X 4 POST BELOW BEAM
DOUBLE TOP PLATE II I III IIII i' ' '� ""' \ END JOIST (CONTINUOUS)
• BEARING PLATE MITERED CORNER
RIM JOIST (CONTINUOUS)
. notch which fits over the bearing plate; a "plumb cut" which butts into the ledger, and a "tail cut" so the trim
e construction of the loft walls. As in the previous steps, any time two walls boards will fit. (See the Rafter Templates on the drawings.)
- Framing The Walls applies to th
rsect overla the double top plates to tie the walls together. Start the layouts for the loft walls at the same There are several other terms you should know: "Pitch" refers to the angle of the roof, "eave(s)" refers to
inte P
• ow. The header which is installed above the ladder opening to support the roof attaches that edge of the roof which is horizontal nd parallel to the ground, "rake(s)" refers to that edge which follows
• oint as for the wall bel
P y ) the pitch of the roof and rises along the able wall. "Fascia", is the trim board at the edges of the roof, either
to three different walls (the rear wall, the left side wall, and the safet wall at the stairs so construction and "soffit" is the material that covers the
sequence is important. covering the rafter tails at the eaves, or t e end rafter at the rakes,
1. Sna chalklines on the dec ' define the inside edge of each frame wall. exposed underside of the rafters and roo sheathing along the eaves and rakes.
P I I nt that the 16 inch on center layout for The size and spacing of the rafters to es into account the strength of the lumber, the distance each rafter
•• 2. La out and cut top and b o Ia_tsof o)!tt inn ° " must than a this to suit our
Y roof will bear called load . If ou g Y
' first i i
ed wet ht th ) Y
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u t he a
reb dt
a an
walls � an
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n nd rea must
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9 � h
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' fter Loa Table. If ou decide Y Y
o the ' Ra
'ions
refer t Y
n d
cal c
od
n th
em.
to ,
• the left and right side walls will fit betwee
construction with the rear wall. After the stud locations are marked, spread the plates apart, keeping supplement these instructions with a reference book on roof construction.
3. Begin
late near its final location. Cut the studs to length (if necessary) and lay them in place CAUTION: Getting all the framing pieces of a roof into place can be dangerous. tt is also impossible or one
the bottom p
• between the plates. Using two 16d nails at each location, face nail through the plates into the ends of person so plan to have several helpers do hand for this task. Take precautions and use scaffolding to rea
each stud. The front and rear walls have double 2x4 corner posts at each end. Use the same construction the highest parts of the roof. While erecting the roof, use temporary bracing to hold the ridge board in place
1'n over.
_ technique as for the lower walls, except as noted in the next sentence. The corner post at the left side of and to keep the rafters from fol F g
the rear wall is constructed somewhat differently because the header which supports the roof above the Follow this basic procedure:
" stairs is supported by members of the corner post. Instead of building a normal corner post, install one full Framing the Upper Roof
height stud positioned so the last 3 inches of the top and bottom plates are exposed. The remaining mem- 1. Lay out and mark the rafter locations on the double top plates of the loft walls. Since the rafters are
bers of this corner will be installed later, after the header is set in place. spaced at 16 inches on center, and the layout starts at the same end of the building as for the wall studs,
4. Install the second top plate (to create a double top plate), but stop it 3-1 /2 inches short at each end of the the rafters should fall directly above'the studs. Mark the locations for the wall ties at this time also.
wall, which leaves room for the double top plate of the side walls to overlap. 2. Lay out and cut two upper rafters. Because of the support ridge, there are two sizes of upper rafters, long
. . 5. With a helper or two, "walk up" the wall frame and stand it in place. Align the face of the wall so it is flush (for the regular ridge) and short (for'the support ridge). Install the regular ridge and long rafters first, then
with the end joist and wall below, making sure the ends are positioned correctly. Fasten in place with a repeat the same steps to install the support ridge and short rafters. Where the support ridge butts into the
air of 16d nails every 16 inches through the bottom plate and plywood flooring into the joist members regular ridge board and rafter pair, Race nail through each rafter into the end of the support ridge with three
P 16d nails. The support ridge extends 2 feet beyond the front wall to create a cantilevered visor at the peak
- below. These nails can't hold the wall upright, so install temporary braces to keep the walls from falling
over. Construct each brace by nailing one end of a long 2x4 to the outside of each end stud (just below of the roof.
. the top plate). Nail a short length of 2x4 to the deck (to the outside of where the side walls will sit) and fas- NOTE: Because the support ridge is wilier than the regular ridge, a slight bevel is necessary to keep the top
ten the free end of the brace to it. edges of the support ridge from protruding above the plane of the roof. For convenience, use two scraps to
6. Construction of the front wall is similar to the rear, except this wall includes the cargo door, so a few adjust- simulate the support ridge, hold them inl place at the end of the regular ridge, and determine how much materiel
ments are necessary. (See Detail "RR".) to remove.
For the 24 foot wide garage: a) Let the bottom plate run continuous as if the opening wasn't there; h Cut 3. With several helpers, holo a left an right rafter pair in place with a scrap piece of 2x between them to sirr
- g g ulate the ridge. Check the fit and ke any minor adjustments
and assemble the header using the measurements on the drawin s, c) Attach a full het ht stud th each end to satisfied with the fit, w rte "tem " on one rafter and use it as a pattern for al the others.
the header, set this unit in place between plates and nail it in position, then; d) Erect and brace the wall. After 4. When you're P�
the wall is standing, install the jack studs under the header. Next, saw through and remove the bottom plate Check the crown of each rafter ( e Step se=of Frming the Loft Floor) and make sure the seat cut is on
from the opening, leaving 1-1/2 inches at each side for the jack studs. the "bottom" side.
22 foot version, the header is placed on top of double top plates (to provide the greatest possible 5. Nail the rafters in place with 8d nail , toenailing through the rafter into the double top plate using two nails
For the
e e
so the header itself is not included in the wall (study the Front Framing Elevation for the 22 foot on one side, and one nail ceNered etween'them on the other. At the ridge, face nail through th
headroom),
�� tiara a for the exact lacement of framing members). into the rafter (4se three 16s) or toenail through .the. rafter into the ridge (use two 16d nails on r
Wide g P
_ 7. Build erect, and brace the right side wall. side of the rafter;.'i�se severe) ;ong 2x's to temporarihr brace the ridge to the floor while installing the
8. After the wall n standing, install the second top plate (to create a double top plate), letting it overlap the rafters, install the rafters in pairs (one left and one right) instead of doing one side"then the other
front and back walls. 6. Cut the wall ties to the correct length and attach the spacer block at it's center with six 10d face nails. If
• nstr d ba k the left side loft wall is similar to the right, except it stops 3-1/2 inches short of the opening boards long enough to span from left to right walls are not available, use two shorter pieces, using the
9. Co
"es in
t the Wal tt
for the stairs. Build, erect, and brace the left side wall, but don't install the second top plate yet. spacer block to tie them together six 10d nails into anach wall tie member. Se
he end stud of the left side wall also serves as the full height stud for the front end of the header above toenailing through them into the do file top plate at the ftont wall and the top of the header with two 10d
10. T nails at each connection. Since the wall ties are next to a rafter, fasten the two pieces together with three
the stairs. Determine the length of the header by measuring from the outside face of the rear wall bottom 16d nails. Ihstall the hangers for the wall ties, face nailing through the ridge into the hanger with two 1 lid
plate, across the stair opening to the end of the left side wall bottom plate. Cut two 2x10 pieces this length
and nail them together as with the other headers except, this header doesn't have the 1/2 inch plywood nails and through the hanger into tine rafter with three 16d nails. The hanger fastens to the spacer bkx*
. spacer between the pieces; they are nailed directly together. with four 16d face nails.
11. Cut a piece of 2x4 top plate exactly 3-1/2 inches shorter than the header. Nail the top plate to the header Framing the Lower Roof
so it is flush at both the front end and outside face of the header (the top plate will stop 3-1/2 inches short NOTE: There is an extra consideratio when installing the lower rafters: Because the rafters bear on top of
of the rear end of the header and protrude 1/2 inch along the inside face). the floor system, the effective waNhefg t is dose to nine feet. However a## foot sheets of skiing are used to
12. Measure the depth of the header and top plate, and use this measurdment to determine the correct length keep waste (and cost) to a minimum. a rafters are designed to take Ibis kW account and be"enough so
•• tuds to this len th two for each end of the that the fascia board will meet thesi * sligbd/y below &'s top (which is at the joint between the two top plates).
for the jack studs which support the header. Cut four 2x4 s 9
header). The jack studs for the front of the header are installed as part of the safety wall, which is the next When testing the rafters for fit, check aspect also. !t may be necessary to a*wt the length of the rafters
step. slightly.
1. Once the upper roof components in place, Mall the 1x10 ledger board for the lower rafters aIs shown.
BUILDING THE SAFETY WALL It fits below the top of the upper , so the plywood sheathing WiN c over fL Also install the 2x4 bearing
1. A 42 inch hi h safet wall se arates the loft from the opening for the ladder. Two jack studs at the end of
I' g Y P ve the stairs. See Detail "DD".) Use the same basic techniques plate along the outside edge of loft floor, ring it with a 16d nail infix the rim joist every 16 inches, alnd
this wall support the header abo ( into each ' ist it crosses.
sure
from the
Jo
I d enm
mea
d eo
f the ad er o
t the e 9
' wall. A P ratters the
his with the
uild t 9 ri . As
and b boa
_ la out r and an lite
I to n t uPPar
vices w raft o he P�
described pre y Y 2. Mark the la out for thg to er Iedd;Qe n9
outside face of the left side loft wall to the front face of the upper 4x4 rail post and cut one bottom plate to 16 inches on center layout starts the same place as the wall studs, so the rafters should be directly in
this length. Cut two top plates exactly 3 inches shorter. inches on line with the studs.
2. Mark the location for the two jack studs at one end of the bottom plate; lay out the normal 16 lates. 3. Cut and check the fit f one rafter each side. Make any adjustments, then mark these rafters as tem-
. h to
center spacing from the other end. Also mark the 16 inches on center layout on one of t e p P plates for their respe�ive sides use them as patterns for layirp out the rest of the ower rafters, malc-
Cut the appropriate number of studs to length (37-1/2 inches) and nail them in place between the plates, ing sure they are crowned up.
then install the second top plate. 4. Toenail throe h the rafter i o the rim a with two lid nails on one side, and one 8d nail centered
. 3. Nail the first jack stud in place on it's layout mark on the bottom plate. It should fit fight against the end of g � g th the back of the
�• I tes. Face nail throe h the jack stud into the double top plates of the safety wall with two 16d between them on the other"side. t the ledger, either face nail (at a stisix ad mai rough
the top p a 9 I r into the rafter or toe(sall th h the rafter into the ledger, usirp six 8d nails for each connection.
_ nails into each plate. Nail the second jack stud to the first with a pair of 10d nails every 12 inches. L
4. Stand the wall up and slide it into place at the end of the left side wall, flush with the face of the joist at the GABLE WAL S rafters and endow the ular areas
trek to the tag
ladder opening along it's side and flush with the outside face of the left side wall at it's end. Nail through Gable studs don t hav� a top;plate; y fasten d tly
. the bottom late into the double joist below with two 16d nails every 12 inches. formed by the regular walls and roof rs. 'They are itre�ed after alt of the rafters are p
P
5. Face nail through the end stud into the two jack studs, starting near the bottom and working upwards, 1. Lay out the gable studs using the measta'emerlfa as for the wall below: t garble
being sure to align the jack studs with the outside face of the end stud. above the wall studs.
12x4's one near the to of the wall, the 2. Stand a sl htly longer than nice 2x4 stud on it's layout mark and fold ft against the railer, matting
rizonta i9
- 6. This partial wall is connected to the rail post with two ho P
other at about 20 inches above the floor. Face nail through each 2x4 block with two 10d nails into the end sure it is plumb. Draw lips on t stud indicating the top and bottom of the rafter, and lines on the ratter
of the wall and two 10d nails into the 4x4 post. At the intersection of the safety wall and left side loft wall, to mark the position of the'".
. nail through the end stud of the safety wall into the jack stud and full height studs of the loft wall, using 3. Cut the stud to length (ft caltl be y longer than the bop of the rafter) Once cut, stand it in position, malas
n infix the erd
three pairs of 10d nails spaced evenly from top to bottom. sure it is plumb, and nail it in plac . with 16d nails (two boea Is into the top plebe and two ails
. 7. The safety wall must be covered in some fashion so there are no openings larger than 4 inches. Building rafter).
codes state that a 4 inch diameter sphere must NOT be able to pass through the railing. To meet this cri- BUILDING THE OPTIONAL RWR
- teria, you may add additional studs (at 5 inch centers) in the wall, nail horizontal members across the studs
• with less than 4 inches between pieces, or cover the safety wall with drywall, paneling, or plywood.
NOTE: It is necessary to block access to the ladder opening in the area between the loft wall and the lower DETAIL QQ - LOFT FR*MING
roof rafters. Covering the loft wall so people or objects cannot pass through it is one method; if the loft wall
framing is left open, then additional material will be required to construct a small wall which meets the same cri-
teria as the safety wall. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR INSURING YOUR BUILDING IS SAFE!
INSTALLING THE HEADER ABOVE THE LADDER OPENING
1. At the rear wall, install one of the two remaining jack studs cut in Step 12 of Framing the Loft Walls.
Space was left for these two pieces when building the rear wall; they also function as members of the cor- UPPER
ner post at the left end of the rear wall. Nail the jack stud to the full height stud with a pair of 10d nails
every 16 inches. W/
2. Set the header in place on top of the jack studs at either end. Where the header butts into the end stud -
the left side wall, face nail through the stud with three 16d nails into each member of the header, and toe-
nail through the header into the jack studs with two 16d nails from each side. At the rear wall, face nail
. - through the full height stud with six 16d nails. (See Details " 00" and "PP".)
3. Install the remaining jack stud under the header at the rear wall, nailing it to the first jack stud with a pair of , X to LEDGEF
10d nails every 16 inches. Toenail the header to the jack studs with a pair of nails from each side.
4. Install the second top plate along the left side wail; one continuous piece should tie the rear wall, header,
and left side wall together.
. 5. Once all of the loft walls are up and before setting the rafters, plumb each corner, straighten the walls and
brace them into position. .
NOTE: If you applied 1/2 inch plywood to the front garage walls (Step 26 of Framing the Walls), apply plywood
to the front loft wall also so there is a smooth, continuous surface to apply siding over.
FRAMING THE ROOF JAC
The roof system is made up of several components: rafters (they bear the weight of the roof and transfer it
. to the walls), the ridge (it provides a nailing surface for the rafters and helps tie them together), wall ties (they
tie the walls together and help keep the structure rigid) and sheathing (it ties all the rafters together and pro-
vides a surface for nailing the shingles). This design features a gambrel style roof with two distinct pitches so
. . . there are both upper and lower rafters; the lower rafters fasten to a "ledger" board attached to the loft wall LOWER
.. (instead of a ridge) and rest on a 2x4 bearing plate nailed on top of the floor. Additional components for this
roof include a section of support ridge (designed to support a pulley) at the front, and a "Cantilever" or "Visor"
• overhang at the roof peak. (See Detail "RR".)
The rafter assemblies in this plan are shown at 16 inches on center. The upper rafters have a "seat cut" B0�0
which rests on the loft wall and a "plumb cut" which butts into the ridge. The lower rafters have a "bird's -mouth" 47 SAFE
r
If you are building the optional dormer, follow the basic directions for building the loft walls for your chosen
size, but use these directions in place of those for the left side loft wall, and in addition to the directions for
framing the roof and gable end walls. (See Detail "PP".)
1. Snap chalklines on the plywood to use as a guide when laying out and setting the walls in place.
2. Lay out and cut bottom and top plates for the dormer wall. The 16 inch on center layout for this wall
should be done so these studs fall directly over the joists below. Include the windows in the dormer wall
when laying out the plates. This layout is important: as with the left side joists the studs need to be shifted
forward 1-1/2 inches relative to the other members. This allows the shortened versions of the lower rafters
to be placed on their correct layout and fall directly next to the dormer studs. Study the drawings carefully.
The first stud from the end of the plate may fall at less than the normal spacing, which is perfectly accept-
able.
3. Cut the correct number of studs to length, lay them between the bottom plate and top plate, and nail in
place. When you are install the windows, the full height stud at the "outside" of each header is also part of
the three -stud corner post at each end of the dormer wall. To simplify construction, attach both full height
studs to the header, set this unit in place between plates and nail it in position, then attach the remaining
pieces of the corner post to the full -height stud.
4. Stand the dormer wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and decking with a two 16d nail into each
joist. Temporarily brace the wall in position so it does not fall over.
5. Lay out and cut bottom plates for the front and rear dormer end walls. These walls don't have a top plate
because the studs are fastened to the rafters (in the same manner as gable studs). Set the bottom plate in
place now; don't install the studs until the upper rafters are in place.
6. Lay out and cut the top and bottom plates for the front section of left side loft wall. This wall has a three -
stud corner post at each end; the front loft wall and the front dormer end wall both butt into this wall.
7. Cut the correct number of studs to length and pre -assemble the corner posts. Lay them between the bot-
tom plate and top plate and nail in place.
8. Stand the wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and plywood with a 16d nail into each joist.
Brace the wall temporarily in place so it does not fall over.
9. Lay out and cut the top and bottom plates for the rear section of the left side loft wall. This wall also needs
a corner post at each end. The rear loft wall and the rear dormer end wall both butt into this wall, but the
full height and jack studs associated with the header above the ladder opening serve this purpose.
Some hints for building and erecting this wall: a) Let the bottom plate run across the ladder opening as if
the opening wasn't there; b) Attach both full height studs to the header, set this unit in place between plates
and nail it in position; c) Erect and brace the wall, then saw through and remove the bottom plate across the
ladder opening; d) Install the jack studs under the header.
Framing the Dormer Roof
The roof for the optional dormer varies slightly from the basic roof. (See Detail "RR".) Dormer rafters
replace some of the upper rafters. The dormer rafters are long enough to span from the ridge to the dormer
wall, have a bird's- mouth cut which fits on the dormer wall, and have a tail cut which accommodates the fascia
and an overhanging soffit (both of which are constructed of 1x6).
Framing the Upper Roof with Dormer Option
1. Use the same techniques as for the upper rafters to lay out, cut, and cneck the dormer rafters. Install them
as part of the upper rafter pairs.
2. Wall ties at the dormer are installed at 16 inches on center instead of 48 inches on center. Using a level to
position each one, nail one end to the loft wall rafter as described in Step 6 of Framing the Upper Roof,
and nail the other end to the dormer rafter, using five 16d face nails.
Installin the Do
rmer End Studs
9
here is one
he late so t
ailed. La out t
After the dormer roof is framed, the dormer end studs can be inst y p
stud against the corner post of the dormer wall, one stud against the corner post of the loft wall, and one stud
at 16 inches on center from the outside face of the dormer wall. To determine the size and position of each
stud, use the same basic techniques as for gable end studs. Cut each dormer end stud to the correct length,
and bevel -cut the top to fit under the double rafter. Nail into position with four 16d toenails at the bottom plate
and at the double rafter.
Framing the lower roof
DETAIL PP - LOFT FRAMING WITH DORMER OPTION
W/
UPPER DORMER
(2)2X61
SH(
LOWEF
JAI
CONTINUOUS I
42" SAFI
1. Install the regular lower rafters as described in the section on Framiing the Roof, omitting those displaced
by the dormer.
2. At each end of the dormer, a rafter fits alongside the dormer end st yIds. Additional rafters which are not
part of the 16 inches on center layout may be necessary. After this rafter is in place, a short piece of
"backer" should be installed. The backer is a short piece of scrap 2*B nailed along the inside face of the
rafter (between the dormer end studs) so that it protrudes 3-1/2 inc s above the top of the rafter and pro-
vides a nailing surface for the lower edge of the siding on the dorm end wall.
3. Shortened versions of the lower rafters are installed along the dorm r wall. To align the top edge of the
short rafters, snap a horizontal chalkline across the face of the dor er wall between the points at either
end where the top of the extra rafter (installed in Step 2) intersects iththe face of the wall.
4. Use the same process as for other rafters: cut one rafter (using the 'rd's- mouth and tail cut portion of the
lower roof template rafter) and check it's fit at either end, make any d'ustments and use as a pattern for
the rest. These rafters are installed on the regular layout marks for a lower rafters, and should lay direct-
ly alongside the studs for the dormer wall. They need only be long enough to fasten securely to the
dormer studs (with four 16d nails). At the rear of the dormer wall, there may be a conflict between the last
r er tail for -
shortened tail and the double joist used along the ladder opening. fi this occurs, move the aft
ward to the next closest stud (the spacing between rafter tails may be less than 16 inches on center, but
that is acceptable). -
SOFFITS
An overhanging soffit along the eaves (the edge of the roof which is level and parallel to the ground) is built
h rafter tails•
r ice oft e
' h da t
o the undo s ,
f 1 x material ri e
d to wilt an
flit is made o
in o this lest n. The so PPS
t g PP
it is installed after the siding and fascia board are in place. (If you have opted for horizontal lap siding the soffit
is installed after the wall sheathing is on, but before the siding is applied.) Nail the soffit board in place with
three 6d nails into each rafter tail, and nail through the fascia board into the edge of the soffit board with an 6d
finish nail every 24 inches.
ROOF SHEATHING
NOTE. If you are using gable overhangs, install them now as shown. (See Detail "Xi':) Assemble each unit
into a "ladder" before installation. Face nail through each continuous 2x4 wit) two 10d nails into each end of
the bloddng pieces. Fasten the unit to the end rafter with two 10d nails evey 16 inches.
Once all of the rafters, wall ties, and gable studs are in place, the plywood sheathing can be attached to the
roof. Each roof pitch is sheathed independently, so the same steps are repeated each time. Sheath the upper
roof first, then the lower roof.
NOTE: When setting the plywood in place, make certain the rafters
remain straight and maintain their 18 inches on center layout. If the
rafters bow slightly off-line, the next row of plywood may not fit correctly.
Instead of ending at the center of the rafter the sheets may fall short, or
extend past. Take a little extra care to get the first sheets in exactly the
right place, then hook your tape at the end of each sheet, and make a
mark every 16 inches. This should be the center of your rafter.
1. To help keep the sheathing stralight and square, measure up 48
inches at either end of the roof: Snap a chalkline to use as a
guide for the top edge of the, first row of sheathing. Attach the 1/2
s�D inch plywood sheathing with 6d nails spaced 6 inches apart. Start
at the eaves (the edge of the roof which is level and parallel to the
E TOP PLATE ground) and work up. Stagger joints in adjacent rows so they
don't fall on the same rafter. (See Roof Sheathing Layout).
2. At both the eaves and gable rakes, the sheathing stops flush with
I0 HEADER the face of the framing so the fascia will cover the exposed ply
ER OPENING wood edge.
3. To protect the sheathing from moisture, cover it with 15# roofing
STUD felt as soon as you have finished nailing it in place. Start at the
base of the roof and work up, overlapping each row by 12 inches.
Staple in place every 6 inches along each edge and down the
RAIL middle of each row. Let the felt hang over each edge of the roof
by about 2 inches so it will cover the siding and fascia boards
which are installed later. If the sheathing does get wet, let it dry
MEDIATE HAND F out thoroughly before putting down the felt.
SIDING
The plywood siding is applied before the fascia boards are
installed and the shingles put on. If you wish to install the optional
mitered corners at the overhead door, frame them now. (See Detail
"W1".) Install the 45 degree framing piece by measuring 12 inches
)ETAIL W1 - MITERED CORNER
3. Install the shingles according to the manufacturer's instructighs. Be sure the shingles extend 1/2 inch
beyond the drip edge along the eaves and the rake edge alghg the rakes.
4. After the lower roof is shingled, a piece of drip edge must be installed at the intersection of the two roof
pitches. It should lay under the roofing felt for the upper roof, but on top of the shingles on the lower roof.
Once this is installed, repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the upper rogf.
SOFFITS (for optional gable overhangs)
If you have included the optional gable overhangs, enclose them with plywood soffit material applied to the
underside of the "ladder" which creates the overhang. Rip the soffit plywood to size and nail it in place. Use
6d galvanized box nails, 6 inches on center into the 2x4 framing members. (See Detail "X1 ".) After the soffit
is installed, a 1 x2 frieze board is applied to cover the intersection between the soffit and the wall (if optional lap
'
siding is installed, this board is installed on top of the sheathing before the siding is applied).
HEADER
BUILDING THE CARGO DOOR
The cargo door consists of three basic components: 2x4 framework, plywood siding, and 1 x4 trim. The plan
contains dimensioned drawings for the doors, but it is essential to field verify the measurements and make any
17" LONG 2 X 4 @ 45°
necessary adjustments.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: These doors are large, heavy, and will be installed high in the air at the edge of
the building. Some means of scaffolding will be necessary so that these doors can be manipulated and
installed. Take extra care; once the doors are hung and free to swing, they could knock people or material off
FULL HEIGHT STUD
of. the scaffolding.
DOUBLE JACK STUDS UNDER HEADER
1. Construct the four 2x4 frames as shown, toenailing the pieces together with 10d nails. If necessary, adjust
the measurements so that when all of the frames are set in place there is 1/2 inch clearance at the top and
1/2" SHEATHING
bottom of the rough opening, 1/4 inch at the hinge side, and 1 inch between frames. If there is not suffi-
cient clearance around the frames, they may bind against the rough opening or strike one another when
SECTIONAL ROLL -UP GARAGE DOOR
opened.
2. Check the measurements before cutting the plywood; when the plywood is set in the opening, there should
BRICK MOLD AROUND DOOR OPENING
be 1 /4 inch clearance at the top, bottom, and hinge side, and 1 /8 inch to 1 /4 inch clearance at the center
between the left and right door halves. Cut one large piece of plywood for each side and attach both the
1 X 6 JAMB TRIM
upper and lower frames to it (leaving 1 inch between the frames). When attaching the plywood it should
be flush with the 2x4 frame at the hinge side, extend about 1/4 inch beyond the frame at the top and bot -
GARAGE DOOR STOP ADJUST TO FIT SNUG TO DOOR
tom, and extend about 1/2 inch beyond the frame at the center. Make sure the grooves in the cargo door
align with the grooves in the siding. Being careful to maintain the correct overlap, nail the plywood siding
to the 2x4 frames with 8d galvanized siding nails at 6 inch on center. Snap a chalkline to mark where to
each way from the intersection of the header and jack stud. Use two 8d nails at each end of the miter. Here's
cut the door panel in half.
the basic procedure for installing sheet siding:
3. Cut each door panel into it's upper and lower pieces.
Sheet siding generally has overlapping joints; always install the sheets so that the next sheet you add laps
4. Attach the 1x4 trim to the door panels.
on top of the previous sheet. When nailing each sheet in place, don't nail the "underneath" edge of the lap joint
a. At the hinge side of each door panel the
until the next sheet is installed, then nail through both sheets at once. If you are using siding without overlap-
ping joints, cover the joints with a 1x2 "batten" to keep the weather out. Start installation of the siding from the
door frame, siding and trim should all be
aligned and flush along this edge. DETAIL R - PLYWOOD SIDING
same point where you began your framing layout. Put one sheet against the wall, flush with the end of the
b. At the bottom of the lower panel and
building and extending about 1/2 inch below the mudsill. Adjust the location if necessary so that it laps halfway
the top of the upper panel, attach the
onto the stud. Use a level to plumb the edge of the sheet, and nail it in place using 8d galvanized siding nails
trim so it extends about 1/2 inch past
spaced 8 inches apart. For those walls which require more than one row of siding, you will need to install metal
the plywood.This will cover the gap
"Z" flashing before putting the second row of siding on. (See Detail "R".)
between the door and the wall, and lap
At the gable ends, pay close attention and plan ahead; because of the angled cuts at the roof edge and ori-
onto the wall by about 1/4 inch.
2 X 4GABLE WALL STUD
entation of the sheets required for the overlapping joints, you will find that the "waste" pieces will only fit at the
c. At the joint between the two doors, the
opposite end of the building. Careful planning will eliminate what could potentially be considerable waste and
trim on the left hand door extends about
' al sheets of sidin .
f in addition
the expense o buy g 9
1 2 inch as t the I
/ p p y
SIDING
hee s of std in falls
' in between s t
r. If the o t
At the front gable, there is a large opening for the cargo loo � 9
wood to cover the gap between doors
exactly at the center of this opening (where the joint between door panels is), you will be able to use these
and lap over the right hand door by 1/4
METAL "Z" FLASHING
pieces for the panels of the door itself. If the joint between sheets does not fall at the center of the opening, it
inch. The corresponding
will be necessary to use additional sheets of siding for the door panels. Refer to the section on Building the
piece of trim on the right hand door
WALL TOP PLATE
Cargo Door.
must be held back from the edge of the
If you have built the optional dormer, there are special considerations when installing siding on the dormer
plywood far enough to crate
walls. At the intersection of the dormer wall and the short lower rafters, flashing is installed which fits under the
the "lip" for the left hand trim to close
siding (extending at least 4 inches up the wall) and on top of the shingles (extending 6 inches down the roof).
against; allow an additional 1/8 inch to
The siding should stop short of this intersection,
1/4 inch so the two piecesof
leaving at least 2 inches of flashing exposed; be
trim do not interfere with one another.
sure and get a coat of paint on the bottom edge of
d. At the joint between the upper and
the siding to prevent water from absorbing into the
lower panels, the trim board on the top
end. When you install the siding at the dormer wall,
panel will lap over onto the
2 x 4 STUD
don't nail the lower 18 inches of each sheet: leave it
plywood of the bottom segment, and the
loose so the flashing may be slipped into place.
trim for the bottom segment will be held
Finish nailing the siding in place after the shingles
down below this lip. Installing the trim
and flashing are installed.
in this overlapping manner accomplishes two things: it creates a stop which keeps the door from
i Flashing is also used where the lower roof
GABLE STUD
swinging into the opening and helps provide a good seal against the weather. It also looks more
meets the dormer end wall. You will need to install
(
appealing if the gaps are covered.
backers as described in Step 2 of Framing The
5. Attach the vertical piece of 1x4 trim to the garage wall along the hinge sides of the opening. The 2x4 jack
Lower Roof in the section on Framing The Optional
stud, plywood siding, and 1x4 trim should all be aligned and flush along this edge. Use a pair of 8d galva-
Dormer.) Individual pieces of metal stepped flashing
nized siding or casing nails every 8 inches.
(sometimes called flashing shingles) are installed,
6. Attach the two hinges to each door panel, using screws for the hinges which penetrate at least 1-1/4 inch -
DOUBLE TOP PLATE one piece for each row of shingles. When installing
es into the 2x4 framing.
(2) 2 X 10 HEADER the roofing felt, it should extend up the wall at least
7, Set the lower door anels in the o enin , usin shims and wed es as re uired to alt n them correct) and
P P 9 9 9 q 9 Y
AT LADDER OPENING 6 inches. Each piece of flashing should be bent so
hold them in proper alignment. Once in position, attach the hinges to the 1 x4 trim at the garage wall, mak-
it extends 4 inches up the dormer end wall and 4
ing sure the screws penetrate at least 1-1/4 inches into the 2x4 wall stud.
__ inches across the shingles. As each row of shingles__
_ g_ _e t the -upper door panels-is{place and attach their hinges in the same manner.
-
LOWER RAFTER is being installed, slip a piece flashing up and under
g, With the doors hung and closed, install the remaining 1x4 trim around the opening, leaving 1/8 inch - 1/4
the siding, positioning and nailing it in place with one
' inch clearance so this trim will not interfere with the operation of the doors.
.
nail at the uppermost corner of it's vertical leg. The
10. With the doors in their closed position, install slide bolts, hooks and eyes, or similar hardware to keep the
GABLE STUD siding covers the top of the flashing, but hold the
door segments together and hold the doors shut.
lower edge of the siding back from the roofing so 1
AN IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION: Since these doors swing outward, they could be blown about by the wind
inch of flashing is exposed and the end of the siding
if they are not fastened in position when opened. This could be both dangerous and damaging. There are
can be painted. Leave the lower 18 inches of siding
several styles of gate latches available which can be used to address this problem. Install the latch on the
loose so flashing can be slipped up underneath it
outside of the door and the catch on the wall of the garage, when the door is opened, it will catch and be held
HAND RAIL during the shingling process. Once all of the flash-
in place; when it is time to close the doors, a small rope rigged through hook eyes can be used to trip the latch
ing and shingles have been installed, finish nailing
and pull the door shut. Regardless of the specific manner and method, this situation must be addressed.
BOTTOM PLATE the siding in place.
Install a padlock able hasp or slide bolt to keep the bottom segments of this door closed so they function as a
_, CAUTION: Wear gloves and be extremely careful
safety rail across the opening. With the door in its fully opened position there is nothing to prevent people or
INTERMEDIATE HAND RAIL when handling or working around the flashing: it's
objects from inadvertently falling from the loft to the ground below. The bottom portion of these doors should
edges are very sharp and can inflict severe cuts.
only be opened when necessary, never just for ventilation.
4 x 4 POST If you use lap siding, place it over 1 /2 inch
DOORS AND WINDOWS
sheathing. The sheathing is installed in the same
manner as vertical siding, except it generally does not have lap joints. During construction, use the sheathing
Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the overhead garage door. You may need to
add additional boards to which you can fasten door components,
instead of the plywood siding so the sequence of construction remains the same. The lap siding is installed
Should you decide to install the optional personnel door and/or window, they are typically installed after the
after the other trim boards, frieze boards, and any doors or windows are installed.
install the lap siding, work from the bottom to the top using chalklines to keep each row straight.
When di
siding is in place. The brick mold trim around the opening is then installed over the siding. If lap siding is
installed is The
you
Check vel ou ro rose and make sure the same amount of siding is exposed for each
work with a le y p g
used, install the doors and windows after the sheathing is but before the siding applied. siding
your
row. If you have built the dormer, the flashing at the roof is installed on top of the sheathing and under the sid-
then butts into the brick mold trim.
ing. At the intersections of the wall and soffit, install a 1 x2 frieze board after the sheathing is on and before the
FINISHING WORK
sidin is a lied.
9 PP
After doors and windows are installed, be sure to caulk the joints between siding and trim, and any other
If you elect to use vinyl or metal horizontal siding, the installation process is similar to regular lap siding, and
Pin seal or stain
exposed joints in the garage. Seal the floor as per the corncrete contractor's instructions. a t,
similar uantities would be required. Corner trim and material for the fascia and soffit are readily available with
q
the exterior. Install optional gutters and downspouts if desired, if necessary. Remember to pitch the gutter
the siding. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for handling and installation.
slightly towards the downspout escape. Have a licensed electrician run power to the garage and install interior
You may wish to consider hiring a professional siding contractor to do the installation for you. Whatever sid-
and exterior lights and outlets. Landscape with flowers, shrubs, and walkways to really enhance the appear-
ing you choose, get professional -looking results by taking the time to install it straight and level.
ance of your.garage.
FASCIA AND RAKE TRIM
f sheathin .
Install the rake boards along the gable rakes, holding it flush with the top of the plywood roo g
The same plumb cut used on the rafters will be required on the rake board for the upper roof where the pieces
meet at the ridge on the rear wall and butt into the support ridge at the front wall. Along the lower roof, let the
DETAIL X1- GABLE OVERHANGING -
lower end of the rake board "run wild", extending several inches beyond the end of the rafter tail.
Trim this after the fascia along the eaves is installed for a perfect fit. It is allowable for the rake
FIN FELT
1 ROO G
boards to di sli htl above or below the surface of the roof (up to 1/4 inch) in order to keep it as
P 9 Y
:' :,... 1rz' PLYWOOD SHEATHING
...,
":;:..:::: • •• ;:;,:�
•'� ;. • •„ •.. �
end in lace then us east rim line or a
' ffective to nail either 9
straight as possible. You may find It e P
METAL RAKE EDGE
`:�:•.., ... -r . .<.
helper's eye to determine any adjustments necessary to get the board straight.
Install the fascia boards along the eaves. Fit the fascia board against the siding so the joint
1 X 6 RAKE BOARD
can be caulked; the fascia may not cover the end of the plywood sheathing, but the metal drip
edge installed with the shingles will cover this gap. Use a similar technique as above for installing
END RAFTER
the fascia board as straight as possible. • '` .'
After all the fascia boards are installed, apply 1 x4 trim over the siding at the corners.
CON11Nuous 2x4
�
THE CANTILEVER
2 X 4 BLOCKING @ 24" O.c.
After all the fascia and rake boards are in place, bevel cut both ends of the two angled 2x4
s18" PLYWOOD SOFFrr
pieces that form the cantilevered visor at the support ridge. The lower end fits against the rake
1 X 2 FRIEZE BOARD
board at a point 24 inches (measured along the top of the rake board) from the center of the ridge
and the upper end extends past the end of the support ridge so the two angled pieces meet one
. . GABLE WALL
another in line with the centerline of the ridge. Use three 16d face nails through each angled
•
piece into the end rafter, and through the angled 2x4 into the support ridge. Use three 16d nails
;
from each side to fasten the angled pieces together where they meet. (See Detail "RR".)
1
.3518" T1-11 SIDING
Additional small triangular pieces of roof sheathing will need to be installed at this cantilever.
As with the rest of the roof, the plywood should stop even with the face of the framing. At the
DOUBLE TOP PLATE
wall, you will need to install a 2x2 nailer on top of the fascia board to support the edge of the
.
sheathing.
After the cantilever is framed and sheathed, install the two fascia boards over the 2x4's. At the
cantilever, the underside of the roof sheathing and framing members are exposed to the weather;
DETAIL Y1 - TYPICAL GABLE END
be sure to protect them with paint or wood preservative (or both).
If optional gable overhangs have been installed, there are several changes in how the can-
-
tilever is framed. (a) The cantheever must be framed before the rake boards are attached so the lower end of
_
the angled 2x4 fits against the overhang "ladder" instead of against the rake board. (b) After the rake boards
.
are installed, plywood soffit is installed on the underside of the gable overhangs and on the underside of the
angled 2x4's which frame the cantilever. The soffit plywood butts into the support ridge; attach 2x2 nailers
along the support ridge to nail the end of the plywood to.
The support ridge is designed so a pulley or other device can be attached for hoisting loads in and out of
vehicles. Any load placed on the support ridge must be applied from the top; i.e. a pulley should be supported
by hangers or straps which fit over the top of the ridge, not by bolts or nails which penetrate through the ridge.
Used properly, this ridge can safely support a load of 750 lbs. Whichever method or device you may elect to
use, you should consult with the manufacturer to determine the best and safest method of installation.
ROOF SHINGLES
After roof sheathing and fascia boards are in place, the shingles may be installed. Shingle manufacturers
generally provide excellent instructions for installation; reading these carefully and following them closely will
result in a roof that looks great and lasts for many years. Shingle the lower roof first, then the upper roof.
1. Slip the metal drip edge under the roofing felt along the eaves, and tack in place with roofing nails spaced
12 inches apart.
2. Along the rakes, the rake edge lays on top of the roofing felt. (See Detail "Y1".) Tack in place with roofing
nails spaced 12 inches apart.
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