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POOLS BY
CENTI
N D U S T R I E
INGROUND
VINYL LINED POOLS
7
Pools By
Owner - CFNTE' INDUSTRIES
Address
Accepted By 566 MAIN ST.
Date _ CLAY CITY, KENTUCKY 40312
A Complete Guide to
Building Your Own
Swimming Pool
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
Important Notice
This manual is for illustrative purposes only.
CENTE' INDUSTRIES makes only those represen-
tations which are stated in its written warranty. Any
other representation, statements, or contracts
made by the dealer and/or the contractor to the
customer regarding any material supplied by
CENTE' INDUSTRIES are attributal to the dealer
and/or contractor only. The dealer or contractor
who sells or installs your pool is an independent
contractor and not an agent or employee of
CENTE' INDUSTRIES.
Please use the back cover to prepare a scale draw-
ing of the exact pool location, showing location of
ladders, diving board, slide, steps, pump and filter,
house, fence, trees, and underground obstructions
such as septic tank, leachfield, underground
utilities, (electrical, gas, sewer, telephone, TV cable,
or water lines).
DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED. ONE
MISTAKE COULD BE VERY COSTLY - ALWAYS
CHECK BEFORE DIGGING. REMEMBER: DAM-
AGED UTILITIES ARE COSTLY! PLEASE CHECK
FIRST!!!
pull o0h6
p?Rml r
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CUDE'5
Foe
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Go
EXCAVATION
CEMENT
ELECTRICAL WATER
FENCE
Page 36
POOL SPECIFICATIONS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Customer's Name Date
Address City State & Zip I. PLANNING YOUR POOL Pages 1 to 7
Home Phone Business Phone Tools and Material 2
Building Permits 3
Pool Size Style Tree Removal Considerations 3
Selecting Excavation Contractors 4
Type Steps Handrails Deciding Placement of Pool 4-5
Deciding Placement of Equipment 6
Ladders Clorinator Pump Utilities Required 6
Initial Layout and Stakeout of Pool 7
Filter Diving Board Slide
II. EXCAVATING YOUR POOL Page 8
Heater Solar Cover Cover
Maintenance Equipment Pool Cleaner III. ERECTING YOUR POOL Pages 9 to 18
Decks Patio Setting the Walls 9-10
Installing In-Wall Steps 11
Permits Electrical Permit Pouring Concrete Collar 12
Light Installation Guide 13-14
Additional work to be performed: Installing Wall Fittings 15-16
Installing Plumbing 17
Installing Main Drain (optional) 18
Electrician IV. FINISHING YOUR POOL BOTTOM Pages 19 to 23
Water Source
Preparing Pool Bottom
19
Back Fill Installing Pool Base 21-22
Final Touches for Pool Bottom 23
Concrete
V. INSTALLING YOUR POOL LINER Pages 24 to 31
Salesman Date
Coping Installation 24
Accepted Date Avoiding Air Leaks 24
Installing Liner 25-26
Excavator Filling Pool with Water 27
Installing (optional) Main Drain 28
"(Must be completed before pool hopper contains 8" of water)
Installer Installing Cover Plates 29
Installing Liner on In-Wall Steps 30
VI. FINISHING YOUR POOL Pages 32 to 34
Travel Directions
Backfilling Behind Walls 32
Installing Deck 33
Installing Ladders 34
Page 35
REMEMBER: Before you start
building your pool, be sure to...
Fully read the manual and consult local codes
BPS b
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CODES
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Obtain the necessary building permit
Stake out the pool area and plan the access routes
ROAD
hoc ? ,? j "
Arrange for material and subcontractors
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ELECTRICAL WATER
EXCAVATION CEMENT FENCE
Include the customer in the plann
Be sure they understand their obl
LADDER LOCATION
Every pool should contain at least one ladder for access into the pool. It is better to
use two, one in the deep end and another in the shallow end. An alternative might be a
set of in-pool steps in the shallow end and a ladder in the deep end.
To install the ladders, assemble the treads to the side rails, attach the rubber ladder
bumpers, attach the anchor sockets and tighten the wedge of the socket against the
ladder. Cover the hole on the bottom of the anchor socket with tape so that concrete
will not come inside the socket, thus making later removal of the ladder difficult.
Set the ladder with the anchor sockets attached into wet cement. Plumb and level
the ladder and then do not remove for at least 24 hours. or until the cement has set up
and cured. Remove while still wet any cement that may have splashed onto the ladder.
ket
Page 1 Page 34
Pool excavation entirely in clay.
CLAY
Remove and Replace
with Gravel Fill
Continuous Deck Drain
Deck Drains
`i71-1 F -
W
?, ca I }
f
(41 +
Continuous deck drain set 3' from
the pool, wall works best in this
situation The deck drain then
serves as an expansion joint
Slope deck to drains 1/4" per foot.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS.
1. If you are not experienced in concrete work do not
attempt to instail the decks.
2. Expansion joints must be used.
3. Steps must be isolated from the deck with expansion
joints.
4. The deck should be pitched at ieast 112" and 1 foot
away from the pool.
Page 33
- Wall
- Sealed
Expansion
Joint
tools
& materials
required
TOOLS
e
PLIERS
TAPE
Y
CARPENTFRS
LEVEL
ro
SCREWDRIVER HOE
?s
KNIFEi -?-_'
RAKE
SHOVEL
ROI I FR I IAMMER
1 - 3' Carpentet's Level
1 - Transit Level
1 - 100' Tape Measure
1 -12' Tape Measure
1 - Roll Builders Cord
1 - Chalk Line, or Lime. or
Flour for marking
1 - hnpact Wrench with Universals
1 -318" Electric Drill & Bit Set
2 - 2 hp Shop Vacuum
2 - 100' Extension corns
3 - Long Handle Shovels
1 - Steel Rake
1 - Garden Rake
1 - Pick
1 -16 lb. Sledge Hammer
1 - 3' Crowbar
2 - Soft Bristle Broorns
1 - TaMper
1 - 318" Drive Ratchet Set
1 - Open End Box Wrench Set
1 - Drift Pin (hole alignment tool)
1 - Razor Knife
Page 2
1 - Set of Screwdrivers
1 - Vice Grip pliers
1 - Water Grip Pliers
2 - Pipe Wrenches
1 - Hack Saw
1 - Rubber Mallet
3 - Wood Floats
3 - Steel Trowels
1 - Water Pump (it required)
Concrete Patio Blocks, Perrnatex,
Teflon Tape, Work Gloves, Rubber Boats
FRIENDS
PLANNING
PLANNING BEFORE CONSTRUCTION SAVES TIME AND DOLLARS!
You have heard the saying, "When all else fails, read the instructions." Not
reading your pool installation instructions could be the most costly error you will
make.. Failure to read this manual could result in your pool being located too
high or too low on grade, the fittings poorly aligned, the filtration equiptment
inadequately functioning, the concrete settling and cracking, and many other
unpleasant and costly mistakes. Take a few minutes NOW to read the manual,
because it represents many years of experience in pool construction. If after
reading the manual, you still have questions, DO NOT PROCEED until discuss-
ing the questions with your local dealer. WHEN IN DOUBT, ASK
?P ?'?? canes
PERMITS r
BUILDING CODES
Advance knowledge concerning local as well as state swimming pool codes
can avert many a disaster upon final completion Most ordinances vary con-
siderably from one community to another, and nothing should be assumed or
inferred. Be sure that you understand as outlined in the code all requirements
directly and indirectly associated with your pool. Take special note of sewer,
drainage, fencing, lot lines, fire, and electrical requirements Obtain PERMITS
where required.
PROBLEMS OF TREE REMOVAL
The subject of tree removal is sometimes a personal one, in that it is an
individual preference as to how much landscaping a pool owner will sacrifice in
order to produce a low-maintenance pool. However, it should be noted that a
certain amount of removal may be tolerated without disturbing the natural
atmosphere of the backyard by the careful use of planters, shrubs, and flowers.
When it becomes necessary to remove trees that will interfere with the pool
itself; the entire root system should be excavated. This prevents the possibility
of any settling of pool panels and any of the concrete deck which is to be poured
in the pool area, An effective method of preventing continued root growth is to
apply copper sulphate to the root system.
BACK FILLING AROUND POOL WALLS
After 6" of water has been placed in the shallow end and the vacuum has been
removed, you are ready to start backfilling. Cover the concrete that surrounds the pool
walls with about 6" of sand. This will protect the plumbing so that the pipes will not
come in contact with the rough texture of the concrete ooflar If you install your piping
at the depth it should be below the frost line and by settling it on the sand, you will
minimize the stress caused by compaction of earth. The backfill used should contain a
minimum amount of clay and absolutely no shale or large rocks. The bottom of the
backfill should be of porous material to allow for drainage away from the pool. Left
over sand from the pool is excellent for this purpose. Backfill may be wetted or puddled
when placed behind the walls to hasten the settlement DO NOT INSTALL A DECK
FOR SEVERAL WEEKS TO ALLOW FOR PROPER COMPACTION. IF YOU ARE
GOING TO POUR A DECK AT ONCE, YOU SHOULD USE DECK SUPPORT
BRACES. YOUR DEALER HAS THEM AVAILABLE FOR YOUR POOL. OR
SONOTUBES MAY ALSO BE USED, (Further discussion under "Concrete Decking".)
FAILURE TO SUPPORT THE DECK WILL CAUSE CRACKfNG OF THE CONCRETE,
WHILE USE OF DECK SUPPORTS OR SONOTUBES WILL NOT GUARANTEE THAT
THE CONCRETE WILL NOT CRACK, THEIR USE WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE
EXTENT OF SUCH CRACKING.
NOTE:
CENTE' ACCEPTS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY
DAMAGE TO POOL CAUSED BY IMPROPER IDECK
INSTALLATION. FURTHERMORE, CENTE' IS
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DECK MOVEMENT.
SETTLING, CRACKING, ETC.
CONCRETE DECKING.
During construction you should provide for the deck support
systern if the pool owner plans to install a concrete deck.
Either of the following systems may be used;
(A) CENTE' concrete deck bracing system and 6 x 6 wire or
318" rebars.
Page 3
Page 32
LINER INSTALLATION REVIEW
1. Have you checked all finished pool dimensions?
2 Is the bottom smooth and ready for the liner?
3 Have you cleaned the pool walls and coping of any dirt, sand, concrete, or
anything else that would harm the liner?
4 Have you read the description on the liner box BEFORE OPENING? Are
the dimensions color and design correct?
5. Did you clean an area to open the liner that is free of all rock, twigs, stones,
wood, metal or anything that can damage a finer?
6, Did you have at least 4 people to help install a liner? Six would be even
better-
7- What kind of a day is it? Vinyl liners are best installed at a temperature of
60 degrees. If you attempt to install a liner in cooler weather, make sure:
(a) The liner has been in a warm place for at least 2 days (dropping a boxed
liner may damage it); (b) Fill the pool only in direct sunlight or when the water
and air temperature are over 60 degrees; (c) Raise shallow end depth close
to the walls by an inch to account for loss of elasticity in the liner.
8. Did You hang the liner straight? Is the deep end and shallow end correct)
placed? Don't laugh. People have installed them backwards and then had
to buy a new finer. If there are wrinkles you can not et out, CHECK. you
may_ have the liner in backwards. Are the corners strai ht and true?
9. You may now start to fill your pool until at least 8" to 10" of water is in the
bottom. Fill only from a garden hose.
10. Continue to run the vacuum until 6'' - 8" of water is in the shallow end. Remove
the vac; reinstall the liner back into the bead receiver (extrusion). Do not
continue to fill until you have removed the vac and reinstalled the liner.
11. After you have 6" to 8" of water in the shallow end of the pool, start your
backfilling. Backfilling should proceed at the same rate as water filling,
therefore, to equalize the pressures.
+ l7
OclLn YOU ARE NOW READY TO BACKFILL
EXCAVATING
EXCAVATION CONTRACTORS
One of the most important phases of the pool construction is the excavation.
If the excavation is not properly done, you will spend hours doing by hand what
a machine could have done in minutes. Selecting a competent excavation con-
tractor is important. Ask for references of where he has worked before. Try to
get a contractor who has done many excavations for pools, as they are different
from those for sewers, house foundations, etc.
It is desirable that the excavation contractor have a rubber-tired backhoe with
a bucket capacity of at least one-half cubic yard. (Case 580; Massey-Harris
2200 with 212 back-hoe, John Deere or International - and a dump truck for re-
moving excess dirt - should be the equiptment he uses.) The back-hoe should
have a minimum extended reach of 14' from tractor supports so that the hoe can
reach the desired depth of the pool from any angle and have adequate swing to
enable loading of earth direcly into a dump truck, thus eliminating unnecessary
handling of dirt. Extendable type hoes are desirable.
After selecting the excavation contractor, you will want to have the contractor
study the drawings of the particular pool he is to excavate. Establish the exact
requirements of the job and set tolerances to which he is to dig the various
sections of the excavation, In this way both you and the contractor will know in
advance what performance each of you will be required to make to the other. Be
sure he knows exactly what route he is to use in gaining access to the
excavation site and where excess dirt is to be disposed. You may wish to
incorporate the performance requirements and pool drawings into a contract so
there will be no misunderstandings later on
PLOT PLAN
DRAW A PLOT PLAN
ON REAR COVER
SCALE 118" = 1'
SELECTING THE POOL SITE
OBSTRUCTIONS: Obstructions such as underground wires, gas lines, septic
tanks, dry-well systems, plumbing, trees, overhead power lines, etc., must be
considered before selecting a final pool site. If various obstructions are un-
avoidable, a compromise must be resolved, keeping in mind that labor and
material costs will be reflected in the total cost of the pool.
Page 31 Page 4
SUN AND SHADE: Both can be important factors when determining the pool site best INSTALLING LINER ON STEP
suited to your needs. Excessive shaded areas from trees and other buildings could
result in uncomfortable swimming conditions during marginal weather months, and will
considerably increase the costs of heating the pool water. Proper pool orientation will
take advantage of all sunny days for comfortable swimming conditions, will decrease
heating costs, and in some states will meet requirements set forth by the public health
department pertaining to diving board placement.
1. Disassemble cover cap, face plate and 4. Fill pool with water until water level
ROAD gasket not sealed to step reaches a point approximately 6" up
vx? A on front of step unit.
s ACCESS 2. Before installing liner cut a 2" x 4" to
span the top of the step, Nail a piece 5. Using stainless steel screws provided,
EASE OF EXCAVATION Try to locate the pool in such a manner so as to provide the of extrusion to the 2" x 4" to hold fasten face plate and gasket to step
best access and most ideai working conditions. By placing the pool a few feet one way liner bead. This will eliminate any using all holes provided. See below for
or the other, the owner may permit easier access by the backhoe, easier concrete stress during installation. (If you do assembly details. The recommended
placement, improved digging conditions, easier dirt removal, and thus less costly labor. not have extrusion the liner can be tool for screw installation is a 1 1/2"
taped to the 2" x 4".) long blade phillips screwdriver. Do not
use a power drill or a ratchet type
CONVENIENT ACCESS: The pool owner should determine the best placement of the 3. Install liner in entire pool using screwdriver, (In the unlikely event you
pool in relation to dressing facilities and house exits. As you select your pool site, vacuum to draw it against walls, A should strip out a screw hole, larger
make rough layouts where you think the pool might be located. Then consider decking piece of vinyl taped horizontally over screws for use in the stripped out hole
and walkways by staking out their approximate positions. Now ask yourself: "Is the the top of the step opening will assist are available through your distributor.)
total poolside living space convenient to dressing facilities and house exits?" vacuum in picking up suction
(Alternately you can use duct tape 6. Using a sharp knife or razor blade cut
THE LOCATION OF THE POOL IN RELATION TO OTHER BUILDINGS should be to temporarily seal back of liner to liner out as shown in sketch
considered from an esthetic point of view as well as from practicality. Determine from step.)
the point of "Eyeball Appeal" whether the pool should be laid out parallel, perpendicu-
lar, or 450 to an existing building, building line, hedge row, fence, or some other
definite object.
AN ADVANCE KNOWLEDGE OF UNKNOWN SUB-SOIL CONDITIONS could definitely
be helpful in determining the placement of the pool. It would be advisable under certain
circumstances to probe the subgrade by boring a series of test holes, the results of
which would indicate the best position and grade of the pool. Problems such as rocky
substratum, high water table, clay, etc., would be indicated before construction and
could be eliminated simply by moving the pool, or if conditions such as these are
planned for in advance, the construction process will be as smooth and economical as
possible.
CHECK THE SELECTED LOCATION FOR GRADE. The pool floor must rest on un-
disturbed earth Keep the top of the pool at least 3" to 4" above highest grade in the
area. AVOID ANY SURFACE DRAINAGE BACK INTO THE POOL! The top of the
pool wall coping is known as pool grade or "top surface." This elevation is used in
setting up the transit as a reference point for all grades
THE EQUIPTMENT LOCATIQN Both pool owner and pool builder should collaborate
when deciding where the filter should be located. The following points should be
included in your considerations:
--'1 GASKET (SEALED TO STEP)
GASKET
CUT LINE
.y
? FACE
% PLATE
SCREW-USE AWL TO GO THROUGH
GASKET AND LINER AT EACH HOLE
IN FACE PLATE BEFORE INSERTING
` POOL LINER SCREW. (TYPICAL)
CUT LINE
Page 5
Page 30
INSTALLING COVER PLATES
1" Flat Head Screw
(12 Required)
---
Duaa
Face Plate
Countersink
for pan head
securing screws
? 101?
If a light is being installed wait
until the light niche is under
water before installing face ring.
Install all face ring screws before
cutting liner with sharp knife; then
install light. DO NOT CUT OFF
EXTRA CORD: WRAP AROUND
LIGHT INSTEAD.
Wall Panel
Continue to fill pool
until water level reaches
a point just below the
wall fittings. Then inst.
skimmer and inlet gaskets
and face plates by lining
up holes as described
above.
r 1 L
Base of Inlet
EQUIPMENT
Locate filter on concrete slab. Be sure to make the slab large enough for all
equipment. Also consider at this time whether an enclosure will be erected. If
so, plan slab size accordingly. Consider the possibility of later adding a heater,
and if that is probable, be sure to enlarge the slab. Locate pump above water
level of pool whenever possible. This prevents gravity flooding and simplifies
winterization.
2. Keep the filter within 25 feet of the pool! By doing so, optimum pump perfor-
mance is maintained Also the filter will be easily accessible for backwashing
and other routine maintenance
3. Never locate the filter and pump more than two (2) feet above pool grade This
will keep priming problems with the pump to a minimum.
4. Never locate the filter and pump in the basement! Pump noise could be annoy-
ing Also the possibility does exist that a malfunction in plumbing could flood the
basement.
5. Consider where the backwash water will run. Is there adequate drainage? Are
there local codes requiring special methods of disposal of such?
6. Location of the filter is also important from an esthetic point of view. When
making the rough layout of the pool, visualize placement of the filter and plan
for future landscaping or enclosures.
_% ? M-
UTILITIES
THE UTILITIES REQUIRED
1. Water
2. Electrical supply
3. Sewer, or adequate drainage
4. Fuel for heater: natural gas, propane, fuel oil, electricity
Be sure that each utility requirement is adequate. Also take into account the present
location of the utility and plan accordingly when laying out pool and equipment.
Page 29 Page 6
Skimmer Throat
LOCK NUi
EXCAVATION LAYOUT
LAYOUT OF POOL AREA. In order to provide working space when the pool wails are
set in place, the outer dimensions of the excavation are made 24" larger on each side
than the actual pool size. Set eight (8) rebar-rods to outline the excavation. (See draw-
ing for appropriate "stakeout"). Rebar-rods should be 318" x 2'. Allowing for the 24"
working border all around the pool, drive the first layout stake firmly into the ground in
the excavation corner which has the highest elevation. From this stake as a working
point, lay out the rest of the excavation as shown in the diagram and chart.
PY B ---+I
x
AI
1 - -- Y
---RECTANGLE STAKEOUT
!•--• oz •--+I
X
1921 .
EXCAVATION NOT POOL
MEASUREMENTS
EXCAVAIION EXCAVATION
SIZE DIAGONALS
POOL SIZE A B X. Y
12' X 24' 16' 28' 32'- 3"
14' X 28' 18' 32' 36- 8 518"
16' X 32' 20' 36' 41'- 2 114"
16' X 34' 20' 38' 42'- 11 114"
16' X 36' 20' 40' 44'- 8 314"
18' X 36' 22' 40' 45'- 7 314"
20' X 40' 24' 44' 50' 1112"
---GRECIAN STAKEOUT EXCAVATION EXCAVATION
SIZE DIAGONALS
POOL SIZE A B A2 82 X. Y
14'-6" X 29'-6" 181-6" 33'-6" 7'-9" 22' 7" 29'- 4"
16-6" X 32'-6" 20'-6" 36-6" 9'-7" 25-7" 32' -10112"
TAPE 16-6" X 35'-6" 20'-6" 39'-6" 9'-7" 28'-7" 35- 3114"
1T-11" X 36-11" 21'-11" 40'-11" 9'-7" 28'-7" 36'- 2"
20'-9" X 39'-9" 24'-9" 43'-9" 9' 7" 28'-7" 38'- 0"
Y /
When you have co mpleted your layout, it must look like Diagram "B" before you
can start excavation. IF STEPS ARE BEING INSTALLED, SEE DIAGRAM "C".
The excavation layout is now squared. Next choose the level of the top of the pool.
This surface will normally be the surrounding walk, patio deck, or highest ground
elevation. The top surface of the pool (top of the coping) should be 3" above this
highest ground elevation.
MAIN DRAIN OPTIONAL
Make a Main Drain Work Platform from
a piece of plywood approx. 30" x 30"/
Cut a 1' hole in center. Cover one
side with carpet (cut hole in carpet).
This platform will distribute your
weight and prevent marring the liner
and bottom.
Lower platform, carpet side down,
over main drain.
Lower ladder to platform.
Use ladder to locate platform in
exact position. Ladder weight will
keep platform from floating out of
position.
Climb out of pool and remove ladder and work platform.
As in the case of skimmer and inlet prep-
aratory installation procedures, your
main drain has been installed and the pri-
mary gasket is fixed to the housing surface
with Permatex. After the liner has been in-
stalled, and with the vacuums still opera-
ting, allow about 6"-8" of water to cover
the hopper bottom. Then lower the work
platform (fig. 1) over the main drain (fig. 2).
Lower ladder onto platform (fig 3.). Care-
fully descend ladder to platform. Place the
secondary gasket on the liner and line up
holes with gasket that is under the liner.
Place the main drain face plate over the
gasket and align its holes with the gaskets.
Screw self-tapping screws through liner and
into holes in drain housing. Use a sharp
knife or razor to cut the liner material
within the circle of the main drain face
plate. Finally, install grate cover inside
the face plate.
at 4 ..J './ R :? ': r
Page 7 Page 28
2 H.N. VACUUM
2 hp VENTURA VACUUM-BLOWER
OR EQUIVALENT
SEAL OPENING WITH DUCT TAPE
Remove 12" of liner from the extrusion. Insert the hose of a heavy duty vacuum
behind the liner in the deep end and another in the shallow end. The hose should
extend to within 12" of the bottom of the wall panel. Using duct tape and/or rags, close
the opening made by the vacuum hose. Turn the vacuum on, the liner will pull tight.
After you have started the vacuum, you will notice that its suction will be helpful in
removing wrinkles. ALL WRINKLES SHOULD BE REMOVED BEFORE WATER IS
STARTED INTO THE POOL. If the vacuum is not powerful enough, begin adding
water. The weight of the water will keep the liner from wrinkling again. REMEMBER.
NEVER LET MORE THAN 1" OF WATER COVER ANY WR-I_NKLE_BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE IT. More water than that will make it impossible for you to
work the wrinkle out. _WRINKLES WILL NOT DAMAGE THE LINER BUT A WRINKLE-
FREE POOL IS MUCH BETTER LOOKING.
.+l
a
With the vacuum running, start filling the pool with a garden hose. Lay the hose on
the bottom; do not allow the water to splash in, as this may cause depressions in the
bottom. Any wrinkles must be smoothed out as the water level continues to rise.
NEVER PERMIT THE POOL TO FILL FASTER THAN YOU CAN WORK OUT
WRINKLES. STOP THE WATER IF NECESSARY. REMEMBER THAT A WRINKLE
LEFT AT THIS TIME IS PERMANENT. The vacuum should continue to run until there
is 6" of water in the shallow end. Stop the water fill. remove the vacuum, and reinstall
the liner bead. DO NOT FILL BEYOND THIS POINT BEFORE REMOVING VACUUM.
Page 27
Choose as your reference for the top elevation of the pool a point on a deck or patio
that is not in the way of excavation or dirt removal. If it is in the way, transpose this
elevation to a sidewalk, mortar joint on a block basement wall, or even a stake driven in
an out-of-the-way place. Mark this point in a conspicuous manner so that it may be re-
ferred to later in the construction process. If the transit is taken down before
excavation is complete, always reset the transit to the reference point. Try to locate the
transit so that it will not interfere with excavation or dirt removal.
Once the top surface of the pool has been established, outline the excavation,
between the stakes, with either flour, agricultural lime, or aerosol paint. This outline will
serve as the boundary to which the excavator will dig.
Wall height 42", coping
2 314". add 3" for good
deck drainage. Total is
47 314"
TRANSIT
EXCAVATION
Using your previously marked reference point for the top elevation of the pool,
determine the depth of the initial excavation by adding to that top elevation 3". This will
be the elevation for the top of the coping. The depth of the footing excavation will then
be 44 3/4" (the wall height of 42" plus the coping height of 2 3/4") from the reference
point. Remember. the reference point is the top of the pool INCLUDING the coping!
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS MEASURE EXCAVATION DEPTH FROM REFERENCE
POINT!
The 44 3/4" depth, measured from the top of the coping, will be maintained in the
shallow end and on the 36" wide working ledge around the pool wall perimeter. On
hopper or flat bottom pools, the first operation is to dig the 24" wide working ledge to a
uniform depth of 44 3/4" below the reference point selected as the top surface of the
pool. This is done on one side and across the deep end. To accomplish this efficiently,
set up a shot stick in the following manner: (1) Select a 2" x 2" or other similar stick
approximately 15' long. (2) After setting and leveling the transit in an appropriate
place, mark the shot stick by placing it at the selected elevation, and marking it at the
transit level. Do this by sighting through the shot stick. A pencil mark on the stick at
the point where the cross hairs in the transit intersect the shot stick will indicate the
transit level Mark off an additional 44 3/4" above the level mark on the shot stick and
place the stick in the hole as the excavator digs. When the 44 3/4" mark is in the level
sight of the transit, you know that this part of the hole is at proper depth
TO STRETCH OUT SMOOTHLY.
Page 8
POOL WALL ERECTION
A level foundation of undisturbed earth should be provided where the wall sections
will be installed As final hand trimmings of the excavation are being made, the wall
panels should be laid on the ground and a dry-marker used to mark a line 2" up from
the bottom of each panel, completely along the length of each panel, so that when the
panels are put into place, a line can be seen 2" up from the bottom around the interior
of the entire pool
CAPPER Mow r
NEW LINER INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Most problems occur around steps, roman ends and shallow end walls. On pools we
have seen in the field. all have shown the base seal to be five to ten inches out from
the wall causing excessive amount of strain on the seal.
The normal finished dimension of our walls is forty inches, We use thirty-nine inch wall
material which allows for one inch of stretch. If you took a thirty-nine inch piece of
material and tried to stretch it five to ten inches you can readily see how much strain is
put on the base seal.
Most problems in the installation of the liner develop in the shallow end. We feel if
more attention is paid to securing the base seal in the shallow end, especially around
steps and roman ends, most of your field problems would be avoided. To secure the
base seal, we strongly urge the use of either sand bags or double tube water bags
We realize that most liners manufactured in the United States are folded with instruct-
ions to start at the deep end. This puts the bulk of the liner's weight in the deep end.
C0Pil?r,
'AMES
On a hot day the liner has tendency to stick to the bottom, making it rather difficult to
pull the shallow end base seals up, where they belong.
With this thought in mind, all of our liners are fan-folded with instructions to unfold and
start at the shallow end, stopping just short of the transition between shallow end and
deep end. At this point while there is no strain on the liner, install steps or roman ends,
where applicable, and insert bead into coping extrusions around shallow end. Secure
base seal, especially at corners and steps, with either sand bags or double tube water
bags.
You are now ready to hang the rest of the liner in the deep end.
-5-rk-EL P?n? * v? s?RkE
A-.rR,9M, pErAll.
SK/mM45-R 5aPPVRT
Page 9
After the liner is secured, we suggest that you use two vacuums to hold the liner in
place - one on the shallow end and one on the deep end. Take time to position the
liner properly and pull out wrinkles before starting to fill the pool with water. Have at
least a foot of water in the bottom of the hopper before installing the sealing ring on the
main drain. Do not install the face plates on the inlets, lights, or skimmers until the
water is over top of the openings.
IF YOU ARE USING A FIBERGLASS STEP, DO NOT INSTALL THE FACE PLATES
ON THE STEP UNTIL YOU HAVE 5 OR 6 INCHES OF WATER IN THE SHALLOW
END. INSTALLING THE FACE PLATES ON THE STEP BEFORE YOU HAVE WATER
IN THE SHALLOW END WILL CAUSE THE LINER TO STRETCH AROUND THE
FACE PLATES AND MAY LEAVE WRINKLES OR CAUSE THE LINER TO TEAR
AROUND THE STEPS. BE SURE THAT ALL SCREWS IN FACE PLATE OF INLETS,
LIGHTS, SKIMMERS, MAIN DRAIN, AND STEPS ARE TIGHT.
If you are in doubt of have a problem, don't hesitate to call your nearest Cente" Dealer
or our office in Clay City, Kentucky.
Page 26
?,__ RAplus 60Kn0?
READ INSTRUCTIONS!
k? k? k? A k?
Place carton on edges of
shallow end.
THIS PRODUCT
Z Unfold.
Carry
unfold liner to transition of
shallow end and deep end
and rest liner on bottom.
IS FAN-FOLDED
After shallow end has been
4 pulled and positioned, deep
end wall will be on top of
remaining folds. Grasp corners of
deep end wall and pull to deep end
and install.
Grasp corners of
3 exposed top flap and
pull to shallow end of
pool. Position and
install end wall. Secure liner
at corners ((plus roman ends
and steps where applicable)
with sand bags.
C?? CAUTION a
DO NOT DRAG MATERIAL ON ROUGH SURFACE
After the panels have had the line placed 2" up from the bottom of the walls, you are
now ready to lower the panels into the overdug area of the pool and rest them against
the side of the excavation. Make a final check to see that the skimmer panel and inlet
panels are placed in the desired location. (The manufacturer recommends that the
skimmer panel be placed in the middle of the wall toward which the wind blows.) After
the panels have been properly placed in the excavation, the next step is to bolt them
together.
Start bolting the panels together at one corner, using the excavation stakes as a
reference mark. Working out from the corner in both directions will make the wall self-
supporting as the assembly progresses around the pool. Where two panels bolt to-
gether except at a corner an ADJUSTABLE A FRAME IS USED. THIS IS ALSO IN-
STEPS AND LINER, page 11.
Take a sight through the transit as each panel is joined to ensure that the pool level
is maintained. Once squared, the long wall parallel to the property line should not be
moved.
Check each panel joint for level in relation to the first corner assembly. Be sure to
install A-FRAMES at each panel joint except on corners. As each panel is leveled and
inside surfaces are in line, bolts may be tightened. When the wall is completely
assembled, the POOL MUST BE SQUARED. This is accomplished by checking the
diagonal measurements from the outside corners of the pool. When these two
diagonal measurements are equal, drive a stake rod through the base of the panels
near the corner. Now check the alignment of the bottom of the panels by using a string
line, This line may be maintained straight by driving a steel stake near each panel joint.
These stakes are only temporary and should not be driven down so far that removal is
impossible after the concrete collar has been poured.
To align the top of the pool you again use the string by stretching tight from one
corner to the next corner. When all of your panels are straight and true, use the rebars
furnished to finish staking in the panels. This will hold panels until the final phases of
construction.
Page 25 Page 10
BEFORE A SAFE LINER INSTALLATION CAN BE MADE.
If you have installed steps on your pool
you should bring the finish grade in front
of the steps at least 1" above joint of the
step bottom and the concrete pad or
blocks supporting the bottom of the steps.
This grade should then be brought back to the
finish pool grade, from both sides and in
front of the step, in as short a distance as
is practical, to avoid liner wrinkles and to
maintain a reasonable grade for walking from !APAN<J0N
the steps into the pool. WIVI, -
Page 11
fill;
COPING INSTALLATION
COP
LINE
BEA
REC
LINER
BEAD
RECEIVER
-APPING SCREW
WALL
Y
BULLNOSE concrete receptor coping is standard on all pools and is fastened to the
steel wall panel from above, with self-tapping screws. Coping should be installed by
starting at a corner, with the pre-cut 6" length placed over the 6" radius filler on the top
flange. It is advisable to have a helper hold coping in place to keep it from moving
away from the walls. If you use a variable speed 318" drill with socket to fit screws, it is
not necessary to pre-drill coping. Otherwise use a drill bit size 9164" and proceed until
all coping has been installed. After all coping is installed, put in place the beauty clips
furnished to cover all cut joints.
Next use duct tape to tape the flange, below
the liner bead receptor, to the wall. This wi!1
make it easier to get good suction and vacuum
air from between liner and wall.
TAPE COPING FLANGE
TO WALL FOR BETTER SUCTION
Page 24
FINAL BOTTOM FINISHING
Bottom finishing can be accomplished by progressing either from shallow to deep
end or deep to shallow end. If you choose to finish from shallow to deep end, the men
must be provided with a means of getting into and out of the pool without disturbing the
already finished areas. For this purpose, a wooden extension ladder with a 12" x 36"
board nailed to the bottom should be set into the hopper. This will enable the workmen
to climb out of the pool without disturbing the finished bottom.
figure C:
r 1'
%
As deep end slopes are completed and hopper bottom is trowelled, strings and nails
should be removed from hopper frame and sand or vermiculite trowelled over hopper
frame as shown in Fig. C. You are now finished with the pool bottom. It is now time for
a review. Please do not proceed until you have had your review.
REVIEW
1 Have you obtained all permits?
2. Have you made plans for all utilities?
3. Are all nuts; bolts, screws, A-Frames tight and are all
walls properly aligned?
4. Has all plumbing been installed and pressure tested?
5 Is the pool bottom installed smoothly and to correct
finish dimensions? Did you allow for hot weather on
dimension C? This can be up to a 3" increase.
6. Have you made arrangements to rill your pool with water?
7. If you have done all of the above correctly, pat yourself
on the back, You soon will be swimming in your beautiful
pool. BUILT BY YOU"'
Page 23
IMPORTANT IF YOU ARE INSTALLING A MAIN DRAIN PLACE UNDER THE
WALL, LENGTHS OF PLUMBING PIPE SUFFICIENT TO REACH THE FLOOR OF
THE POOL WHERE THE MAIN DRAIN WILL BE SET
YOU ARE NOW READY TO POUR CONCRETE. To prevent the concrete from
flowing under the wall and into the pool, all spaces under the walls should be packed
with sand, dirt, or strips of wood. It is recommended that you pour a concrete collar
around the entire perimeter of the pool. When the concrete truck arrives, place one
wheelbarrow of very dry concrete on each adjustable A-FRAME, then ask the concrete
truck operator to make the mixture very soupy so that it can be puddled around the
pool with rakes and shovels. BE CERTAIN THAT ALL AREAS OF THE POOL WALLS
ARE COVERED TO A DEPTH OF AT LEAST 4 6" IS EVEN BETTER. BE CERTAIN
THAT THE STEPS ARE BRACED ACROSS THE FRONT WITH THE 2 x 6
DESCRIBED IN THE INSTALLATION OF STEPS. FAILURE TO BRACE THE
BOTTOM OF STEPS WILL RESULT IN BOWING INTO THE POOL AND WILL CAUSE
AN UNSIGHTLY APPEARANCE.
4 yards of concrete is needed for a 16 x 32 pool, 5 yards for an 18 x 36, and 6 yards
for a 20 x 40 pool. DO NOT SKIMP ON CONCRETEI THIS IS YOUR BEST
INSURANCE FOR A VERY SATISFACTORY POOL INSTALLATION.
ELECTRICAL
Before proceeding with the installation, be sure to arrange for a licensed electrician
to ground the pool according to local and national codes and also make all electrical
connections required for the pump and any optional equiptment. REFER TO ANY AND
ALL LOCAL BUILDING CODES REGARDING YOUR INSTALLATION. FAILURE TO
COMPLY MAY RESULT IN FINES, A STOP WORT{ ORDER, OR OTHER FORMS OF
ENFORCEMENT. DO NOT ASSUME! ALLWAYS CHECK! BE RIGHT, NOT SORRY!!
PLUMBING INSTALLATION
BECAUSE OF THE VARIETY OF SHAPES, SIZES AND TYPES OF PUMPS
FILTERS, HEATERS SLIDES, AND CLEANING EQUIPMENT PLEASE SEE
SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS SUPPLIED WITH THE PARTICULAR PRODUCTS YOU
ARE USING. ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE DRAWINGS OF INDIVIDUAL
ITEMS. USE THEM ONLY FOR REFERENCE. ALWAYS CHECK MANUFACTURER'S
SPECIFICATIONS WHEN AVAILABLE NEVER VIOLATE ANY LOCAL CODES.
WHEN IN DOUBT CHECK!!!
Page 12
LIGHT INSTALLATION DIAGRAM
iameter
les eq-sp (180°)
1/2" B.C.D.
liner screws
iameter
ales eq-sp
Ill" B.C.D.
ling screws
10" O.C. Max.-
Niche Body
12 3116" O.D.-
Niche Flange
EQUIPMENT: (1) Paddle-type mixer (five cu, ft, capacity), (2) One 55 gallon drum
for water; (3) Five gallon pails for measuring mixed vermiculite material into excavation
(See item #4 under "Mixing Instructions"); (4) Sufficient length of hose for filling water
drum and swimming pool; (5) Several round edge, flexible swimming pool trowels (14
or 16 inch); (6) One long-handled shovel.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: (1) Introduce water first and then the Portland cement in
proper proportions into the paddle-type mixer, (2) While rotating the mixer, slowly add
the proper amount of vermiculite until all the aggregate is in the mixer; (3) Keep
rotating the drum for at least 60 seconds after all the aggregate is in the mixer. Adjust
mixing time and amount of water to find a workable consistency. Do not overmix. (See
item #4 under "Additional Mixing Tips"); (4) Convey the prepared mixture into exca-
vation in buckets and proceed with installation.
FORMULATION: (1:8 MIX PROPORTION) - each bag of vermiculite pool base
aggregate contains 4 cu, ft. at time of filling.
VERMICULITE
For 5 cu. ft. mixer 112 bag 1 bag
For 9 cu. ft mixer 1 bag 2 bags
WATER
24 - 25
Wall Panel
Gaskets (3)
ADDITIONAL MIXING TIPS: Here are some helpful hints from experienced installers:
Ground Connector (1) For sloped sections, use a stiffer mix (accomplished by using less water and/or
shorter mixing time). The greater the degree of pitch, the stiffer the mix should be.
"?X=- Stainless Steel Niche (2) Be sure your mixer is clean and free of debris. (3) Make sure the proper amounts
IJ (Fixture Housing) of ingredients are used in each batch. (4) Check your mix for these visual
1 characteristics: (a) Has uniform gray cement color. (b) No dry or unmixed material
Stainless P?Jnyl Liner visible. (c) Has consistency of whipped cream. (5) Avoid overmixing (6) Do not
Steel Screws install a base made with vermiculite on a day when rain is threatening. (7) If sub-
114-20 x 1" FH internal ground stratum is excessively dry or contains a large percentage of sand, wet it down
(10) required Lug for: thoroughly before applying the mix. (8) if mix conveyed into the pool bottom turns out
GN-5LHPVC & to be too wet for application to sloped surfaces, trowel up only to the point where the
"- - -- I GN-5LHPVC=1 mix begins to slide back. Move sideways and apply to the next area Continue in this
only manner around the hopper. By the time you return to the original area, the concrete will
have set sufficiently to enable application of a second "course" above the first. (9) On
FACE PLATE extremely hot, dry days, more water may be needed to achieve proper consistency in
(Brass-Chrome) your mix. (10) In areas where winter temperatures drop rapidly and often to sub-zero
f readings, some installers place the mix on a chicken wire mesh for added protection
against cracking. (11) If you run into an extremely rough or rocky hole, it may help to
-- - -?j apply the mix very roughly to fill in gouges and cover stones. When mix has set up
CountersunkD'* A- - ^fi - - slightly, surface can be moistened and trowelled to a smooth, final finish. (12) Ver-
for Retainer Screw Back Up Ring miculite is not recommended for use in sidewalks or decks around pools.
Retainer Screw - --
12-24 x 112", Fillister HD 114 oz of Liquid "Joy" Soap creates a petroleum base
(2) required for easy and smooth trowelling.
Page 13 Page 22
INSTALLING THE POOL BOTTOM
UNDER WATER LIGHT
Light switch
115V-
' Ha:
CARPENTERS - deck box
LEVEL , RAKE
ground
SHOVEL B _ ?{
?? ' ROLLER
SAND BOTTOM ?-? Male fittings
The bottom of the pool is finished directly to the 2" line up from the bottom of the Light conduit
panels. About 2" of a "lake" or "mason's" sand will give this depth. Wet and tamp solid
all loose earth in the pool bottom before adding the sand. Particular care should be
taken with the tamping of the sand bottom. The smoothness and evenness of this
bottom will determine the appearance of the liner when it is placed in the pool. In order
to get maximum compaction and evenness of surface, it is suggested that the sand be 18" minimum
drenched thoroughly and deeply with water before and after placement in the pool. to lens top Coil excess, cord
This will allow the finishing operation to proceed orderly and one section of the bottom around light
will not dry out before the finishing is completed and the liner set into place. To attain a aroro not cut off
thoroughly compact sand bottom, the wet sand should first be tamped with a hand (Do tamper. Work should progress at the shallow end and proceed to the deep end. The Niche
shallow end should be dished toward the center approximately 2" to ensure good liner
fit, except when using an automatic pool cleaner.
If using galvanized or PVC Pipe install 450 elbows never 900 elbows.
VERMICULITE For 120 Volt Light use 314" pipe for 12 Volt adapt 1".
Vermiculite is an aggregate which when added to cement and used as a base for in
ground vinyl liner pools offers benefits such as less liner abrasion, longer liner life.
porosity, insulation properties, and firmness. The bottom of the pool is finished directly
to the 2" line as in the sand bottom procedure About 1 112" - 2" of Vermiculite.
Zonalite, C.P.B.A. (Concrete Pool Base Aggregate) or equivalent and concrete is
trowelled into place to give this depth.
THE FOLLOWING IS A STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE FOR MIXING. PLACING, AND
FINISHING VERMICULATE POOL BASE BOTTOM.
MATERIALS: To install a vermiculite pool base, you will need sufficient quantities of
the following: (1) Vermiculite Pool Base Aggregate (available in 4 cu. ft. bags); (2)
Portland cement, type #1 (CAUTION. ALWAYS USE PLAIN PORTLAND CEMENT;
NEVER USE AN AIR-ENTRAINED CEMENT.) (3) Clean water, suitable for use with
Portland cement, free from deleterious amounts of acid, alkali or organic matter, which
might adversely affect the setting or curing of the Portland cement.
LIGHT INSTALLATION
MUST ADHERE TO LOCAL ELECTRICAL CODES
Snake the 3-conductor electric cord through the conduit outlet of the fixture housing
(niche), into the conduit, and up to the junction box. DO NOT CUT EXCESS CORD!
The extra footage of cord is provided to allow for raising the fixture to the pool deck for
re-lamping. Leave sufficient cord to reach from fixture housing to deck. Coil this
excess cord around the lighting fixture and insert the bottom lug of the front rim into the
groove of the fixture housing mounting rim. Align the face rim lock screw with the
tapped hole on the mounting rim, and secure.
LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.
Page 21
Page 14
INSTALLATION OF WALL FITTINGS AND MAIN DRAIN
If you will follow the installaton drawings as shown you should experience easy
installation. After all the fittings have been installed, start the installation of plumbing -
either poly pipe or schedule 40 pipe may be used. Please follow the suggestions
provided for a quality and trouble-free installation.
VINYL LINER
FACE PLATE
SCREWS
a
r^'_ 0"
(GASKET
SECURING SCREWS
518" PAN HEAD G
(2 REQUIRED)
GALVANIZED STEEL
WALL PANEL
EXPANSION JOINT
ADJUSTABLE
COLLAR
COVER
L
?V?O?Citd?• vp
WIER
GASKET
PLASTIC PIPE
SCH 40 PVC
SP-1408
• •
LOCK NUT1}
WASHER ?
SPACER
POOL STEF'.. WALL
BASKET
,u-to
_ PLASTIC PIPE
' SCH 40 PVC
ADAPTER FITTING
and Q
CAP
??....•• GASKET
POOL LINER
GASKET
ikimmer SCH 40 PVC
iCH 40 PVC fitting Inlet
Page 15
PVC elbow
Main Drain
Slope to main drain -
777
Page 20
",r
2 x 2 Frame
? , ...?'
C_t2 Sand or vermiculite bottom
POOL BOTTOM PREPARATION
TAPE
'Al- HAMMER
Once the walls are up and footings are poured, check the depth in various sections
of the pool bottom and hopper in relation to the TOP OF THE WALL. If the excavator
has worked carefully, the pool floor should be very near its exact depth and only a
small amount of hand trimming will be necessary. As mentioned before, the depths
may be made 2" deeper than required but may not be made less than the dimensions
shown. The final sizing of the pool bottom governs the smooth future appearance of
the liner in the finished pool
Fabricate a jig of 2" x 2" lumber according to the dimensions of the hopper bottom
for the particular pool being installed. The hopper bottom dimensions should be
measured inside to inside when constructing the jig. In order to set this jig in the exact
position, the following procedure should be followed:
1. Measuring from the end wall in the deep end of the pool towards
the shallow end of the pool, make a mark on the top of the side
wall assembly at measurement D (shown on following page).
Do this on both sides.
2. Using a 2 x 4 long enough to span the width fo the pool, align
one edge of the 2 x 4 with marks on top of the pool wall.
3. Make a mark on the 2 x 4 which corresponds to the inside edge
of the pool. Do this on both ends of the 2 x 4.
4. Remove the 2 x 4 and measure 4' from each mark towards the
center of the 2 x 4. Mark.
5. Drive 2 nails on the 4' mark on the edge of the 2 x 4 Leave
nails protruding enough to hang a plumb bob.
6. Replace 2 x 4 on top of pool walls, aligning the edge of 2 x 4
where nails were placed with the 4' mark on the pool wall.
7. Next align the 4' mark on 2 x 4 with inside edge of the pool.
8. Hang plumb bob on nails. Plumb bob will then indicate the
front 2 corners of the hopper frame.
9. Position 2 front corners of hopper frame and stake into place.
10. Measure diagonals on hopper frame to square rear corners with
front corners and stake into place.
11. Set the elevation of this jig at the same elevation as the
main drain, if one is used.
The next step is to set strings from the inside corners of the hopper frame to the
panel joints of the corner panels in the deep end, and to the beginning of the break
from shallow to deep end. 2' pins should be driven in next to the panels at these
points. Strings should be fastened to the pins so as to correspond with a point 2" up
from the bottom of the panel.
Gate Valve
or 4-way Ball Valve
qjS
**NOTE: It an automatic, pool
cleaner is planned for im-
mediate or future installa-
tion, it is essential that
a return fitting be located
at the center of the long
wall closest to the filter
svstem.
HEATFR
FILTER ? PUMP & MOTOR
'2
RETURN
MAIN DRAIN
(optional)
SKIMMER
RETURN
R
1
f U- -? 1 Run pipes straight down to virgin ground, Or, if
concrete collar has already been poured, run pipe
to top of collar--NOTE use thin layer of fine earth
on top of collar to cushion pipe
Page 19 Page 16
INSTALLING PLASTIC PIPING
SCHEDULE 40 PVC
With the fittings already in place, you can begin to plumb the pool by installing
plastic piping. First, partially backfill and hand tamp around the pool with good
drainage gravel that is free of rocks, large boulders, and debris. Backfill approximately
halfway up the wall. Never use heavy clay soil or sand for backfilling because they will
not pack properly or provide adequate drainage.
Lay out your piping making certain that the suction line slants toward the filter
whenever possible. Be sure that pipes are installed away from the pool wall, bracing
system, and any other sharp objects which could cut the pipe. Be careful to fully seal
all pipe connections to eliminate the possibility of water or air leaks.
Many experienced installers pressure test the lines before burying them. A few
minutes of extra care in checking lines can save a lot of time in repair work later.
Valve
Inlet Circulating
Line
Pool Wall
Plug
?r
FRENCH DRAIN - OPTIONAL
THIS PROCEDURE IS TO BE USED ONLY IF AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF WATER
IS PRESENT WHEN THE EXCAVATION IS MADE.
LUG CONCRETE DECK
1?FEMALE COUPLER
COMPACTED EARTH OR
CONCRETE PAD --?
4 - 1/4" DRILLED
HOLES EQUALLY
SPACED AROUND PIPE
SCREEN
MAIN DRAIN - OPTIONAL
A4cE
G1"MrE
6-
2Y" - -
? GRSKE7s
L/b1 YG LNlI
--1 TO PUMP
MAIN DRAIN: If a main drain is to
be used it is advisable to set it into
a concrete pad approximately 2'x 2'
x 6". If concrete is not used be sure
the earth is packed tightly around it.
The pipe must be buried at least 6"
below the side bank and wall. Extra
care should be taken in assembling
the components. Direct the pipe
either toward the pump or the
bottom of the skimmer.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
1. ARE ALL NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS TIGHT?
2. ARE WALLS LEVEL AND STRAIGHT?
3. ARE ALL ACCESSORIES IN PLACE?
4. ARE STEPS (IF USED) AND LADDERS PROPERLY BRACED?
Pressure Gauge
Page 17
Page 18
After you have pressure tested all lines for your plumbing installation, you may
complete the backfilling, or at least bring the backfill up 112 way on the wall panels.