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HomeMy WebLinkAbout05060131 Pool Plans$15.00 POOLS BY CENTI N D U S T R I E INGROUND VINYL LINED POOLS 7 Pools By Owner - CFNTE' INDUSTRIES Address Accepted By 566 MAIN ST. Date _ CLAY CITY, KENTUCKY 40312 A Complete Guide to Building Your Own Swimming Pool CONSTRUCTION NOTES Important Notice This manual is for illustrative purposes only. CENTE' INDUSTRIES makes only those represen- tations which are stated in its written warranty. Any other representation, statements, or contracts made by the dealer and/or the contractor to the customer regarding any material supplied by CENTE' INDUSTRIES are attributal to the dealer and/or contractor only. The dealer or contractor who sells or installs your pool is an independent contractor and not an agent or employee of CENTE' INDUSTRIES. Please use the back cover to prepare a scale draw- ing of the exact pool location, showing location of ladders, diving board, slide, steps, pump and filter, house, fence, trees, and underground obstructions such as septic tank, leachfield, underground utilities, (electrical, gas, sewer, telephone, TV cable, or water lines). DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED. ONE MISTAKE COULD BE VERY COSTLY - ALWAYS CHECK BEFORE DIGGING. REMEMBER: DAM- AGED UTILITIES ARE COSTLY! PLEASE CHECK FIRST!!! pull o0h6 p?Rml r ewtP n6 CUDE'5 Foe 7TU)n of Go EXCAVATION CEMENT ELECTRICAL WATER FENCE Page 36 POOL SPECIFICATIONS TABLE OF CONTENTS Customer's Name Date Address City State & Zip I. PLANNING YOUR POOL Pages 1 to 7 Home Phone Business Phone Tools and Material 2 Building Permits 3 Pool Size Style Tree Removal Considerations 3 Selecting Excavation Contractors 4 Type Steps Handrails Deciding Placement of Pool 4-5 Deciding Placement of Equipment 6 Ladders Clorinator Pump Utilities Required 6 Initial Layout and Stakeout of Pool 7 Filter Diving Board Slide II. EXCAVATING YOUR POOL Page 8 Heater Solar Cover Cover Maintenance Equipment Pool Cleaner III. ERECTING YOUR POOL Pages 9 to 18 Decks Patio Setting the Walls 9-10 Installing In-Wall Steps 11 Permits Electrical Permit Pouring Concrete Collar 12 Light Installation Guide 13-14 Additional work to be performed: Installing Wall Fittings 15-16 Installing Plumbing 17 Installing Main Drain (optional) 18 Electrician IV. FINISHING YOUR POOL BOTTOM Pages 19 to 23 Water Source Preparing Pool Bottom 19 Back Fill Installing Pool Base 21-22 Final Touches for Pool Bottom 23 Concrete V. INSTALLING YOUR POOL LINER Pages 24 to 31 Salesman Date Coping Installation 24 Accepted Date Avoiding Air Leaks 24 Installing Liner 25-26 Excavator Filling Pool with Water 27 Installing (optional) Main Drain 28 "(Must be completed before pool hopper contains 8" of water) Installer Installing Cover Plates 29 Installing Liner on In-Wall Steps 30 VI. FINISHING YOUR POOL Pages 32 to 34 Travel Directions Backfilling Behind Walls 32 Installing Deck 33 Installing Ladders 34 Page 35 REMEMBER: Before you start building your pool, be sure to... Fully read the manual and consult local codes BPS b RY4J C j„ OUAP146 CODES fvr t0W4 0f Obtain the necessary building permit Stake out the pool area and plan the access routes ROAD hoc ? ,? j " Arrange for material and subcontractors p A?C,po 0 ? ` IV, o--- 0 ELECTRICAL WATER EXCAVATION CEMENT FENCE Include the customer in the plann Be sure they understand their obl LADDER LOCATION Every pool should contain at least one ladder for access into the pool. It is better to use two, one in the deep end and another in the shallow end. An alternative might be a set of in-pool steps in the shallow end and a ladder in the deep end. To install the ladders, assemble the treads to the side rails, attach the rubber ladder bumpers, attach the anchor sockets and tighten the wedge of the socket against the ladder. Cover the hole on the bottom of the anchor socket with tape so that concrete will not come inside the socket, thus making later removal of the ladder difficult. Set the ladder with the anchor sockets attached into wet cement. Plumb and level the ladder and then do not remove for at least 24 hours. or until the cement has set up and cured. Remove while still wet any cement that may have splashed onto the ladder. ket Page 1 Page 34 Pool excavation entirely in clay. CLAY Remove and Replace with Gravel Fill Continuous Deck Drain Deck Drains `i71-1 F - W ?, ca I } f (41 + Continuous deck drain set 3' from the pool, wall works best in this situation The deck drain then serves as an expansion joint Slope deck to drains 1/4" per foot. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS. 1. If you are not experienced in concrete work do not attempt to instail the decks. 2. Expansion joints must be used. 3. Steps must be isolated from the deck with expansion joints. 4. The deck should be pitched at ieast 112" and 1 foot away from the pool. Page 33 - Wall - Sealed Expansion Joint tools & materials required TOOLS e PLIERS TAPE Y CARPENTFRS LEVEL ro SCREWDRIVER HOE ?s KNIFEi -?-_' RAKE SHOVEL ROI I FR I IAMMER 1 - 3' Carpentet's Level 1 - Transit Level 1 - 100' Tape Measure 1 -12' Tape Measure 1 - Roll Builders Cord 1 - Chalk Line, or Lime. or Flour for marking 1 - hnpact Wrench with Universals 1 -318" Electric Drill & Bit Set 2 - 2 hp Shop Vacuum 2 - 100' Extension corns 3 - Long Handle Shovels 1 - Steel Rake 1 - Garden Rake 1 - Pick 1 -16 lb. Sledge Hammer 1 - 3' Crowbar 2 - Soft Bristle Broorns 1 - TaMper 1 - 318" Drive Ratchet Set 1 - Open End Box Wrench Set 1 - Drift Pin (hole alignment tool) 1 - Razor Knife Page 2 1 - Set of Screwdrivers 1 - Vice Grip pliers 1 - Water Grip Pliers 2 - Pipe Wrenches 1 - Hack Saw 1 - Rubber Mallet 3 - Wood Floats 3 - Steel Trowels 1 - Water Pump (it required) Concrete Patio Blocks, Perrnatex, Teflon Tape, Work Gloves, Rubber Boats FRIENDS PLANNING PLANNING BEFORE CONSTRUCTION SAVES TIME AND DOLLARS! You have heard the saying, "When all else fails, read the instructions." Not reading your pool installation instructions could be the most costly error you will make.. Failure to read this manual could result in your pool being located too high or too low on grade, the fittings poorly aligned, the filtration equiptment inadequately functioning, the concrete settling and cracking, and many other unpleasant and costly mistakes. Take a few minutes NOW to read the manual, because it represents many years of experience in pool construction. If after reading the manual, you still have questions, DO NOT PROCEED until discuss- ing the questions with your local dealer. WHEN IN DOUBT, ASK ?P ?'?? canes PERMITS r BUILDING CODES Advance knowledge concerning local as well as state swimming pool codes can avert many a disaster upon final completion Most ordinances vary con- siderably from one community to another, and nothing should be assumed or inferred. Be sure that you understand as outlined in the code all requirements directly and indirectly associated with your pool. Take special note of sewer, drainage, fencing, lot lines, fire, and electrical requirements Obtain PERMITS where required. PROBLEMS OF TREE REMOVAL The subject of tree removal is sometimes a personal one, in that it is an individual preference as to how much landscaping a pool owner will sacrifice in order to produce a low-maintenance pool. However, it should be noted that a certain amount of removal may be tolerated without disturbing the natural atmosphere of the backyard by the careful use of planters, shrubs, and flowers. When it becomes necessary to remove trees that will interfere with the pool itself; the entire root system should be excavated. This prevents the possibility of any settling of pool panels and any of the concrete deck which is to be poured in the pool area, An effective method of preventing continued root growth is to apply copper sulphate to the root system. BACK FILLING AROUND POOL WALLS After 6" of water has been placed in the shallow end and the vacuum has been removed, you are ready to start backfilling. Cover the concrete that surrounds the pool walls with about 6" of sand. This will protect the plumbing so that the pipes will not come in contact with the rough texture of the concrete ooflar If you install your piping at the depth it should be below the frost line and by settling it on the sand, you will minimize the stress caused by compaction of earth. The backfill used should contain a minimum amount of clay and absolutely no shale or large rocks. The bottom of the backfill should be of porous material to allow for drainage away from the pool. Left over sand from the pool is excellent for this purpose. Backfill may be wetted or puddled when placed behind the walls to hasten the settlement DO NOT INSTALL A DECK FOR SEVERAL WEEKS TO ALLOW FOR PROPER COMPACTION. IF YOU ARE GOING TO POUR A DECK AT ONCE, YOU SHOULD USE DECK SUPPORT BRACES. YOUR DEALER HAS THEM AVAILABLE FOR YOUR POOL. OR SONOTUBES MAY ALSO BE USED, (Further discussion under "Concrete Decking".) FAILURE TO SUPPORT THE DECK WILL CAUSE CRACKfNG OF THE CONCRETE, WHILE USE OF DECK SUPPORTS OR SONOTUBES WILL NOT GUARANTEE THAT THE CONCRETE WILL NOT CRACK, THEIR USE WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE EXTENT OF SUCH CRACKING. NOTE: CENTE' ACCEPTS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE TO POOL CAUSED BY IMPROPER IDECK INSTALLATION. FURTHERMORE, CENTE' IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DECK MOVEMENT. SETTLING, CRACKING, ETC. CONCRETE DECKING. During construction you should provide for the deck support systern if the pool owner plans to install a concrete deck. Either of the following systems may be used; (A) CENTE' concrete deck bracing system and 6 x 6 wire or 318" rebars. Page 3 Page 32 LINER INSTALLATION REVIEW 1. Have you checked all finished pool dimensions? 2 Is the bottom smooth and ready for the liner? 3 Have you cleaned the pool walls and coping of any dirt, sand, concrete, or anything else that would harm the liner? 4 Have you read the description on the liner box BEFORE OPENING? Are the dimensions color and design correct? 5. Did you clean an area to open the liner that is free of all rock, twigs, stones, wood, metal or anything that can damage a finer? 6, Did you have at least 4 people to help install a liner? Six would be even better- 7- What kind of a day is it? Vinyl liners are best installed at a temperature of 60 degrees. If you attempt to install a liner in cooler weather, make sure: (a) The liner has been in a warm place for at least 2 days (dropping a boxed liner may damage it); (b) Fill the pool only in direct sunlight or when the water and air temperature are over 60 degrees; (c) Raise shallow end depth close to the walls by an inch to account for loss of elasticity in the liner. 8. Did You hang the liner straight? Is the deep end and shallow end correct) placed? Don't laugh. People have installed them backwards and then had to buy a new finer. If there are wrinkles you can not et out, CHECK. you may_ have the liner in backwards. Are the corners strai ht and true? 9. You may now start to fill your pool until at least 8" to 10" of water is in the bottom. Fill only from a garden hose. 10. Continue to run the vacuum until 6'' - 8" of water is in the shallow end. Remove the vac; reinstall the liner back into the bead receiver (extrusion). Do not continue to fill until you have removed the vac and reinstalled the liner. 11. After you have 6" to 8" of water in the shallow end of the pool, start your backfilling. Backfilling should proceed at the same rate as water filling, therefore, to equalize the pressures. + l7 OclLn YOU ARE NOW READY TO BACKFILL EXCAVATING EXCAVATION CONTRACTORS One of the most important phases of the pool construction is the excavation. If the excavation is not properly done, you will spend hours doing by hand what a machine could have done in minutes. Selecting a competent excavation con- tractor is important. Ask for references of where he has worked before. Try to get a contractor who has done many excavations for pools, as they are different from those for sewers, house foundations, etc. It is desirable that the excavation contractor have a rubber-tired backhoe with a bucket capacity of at least one-half cubic yard. (Case 580; Massey-Harris 2200 with 212 back-hoe, John Deere or International - and a dump truck for re- moving excess dirt - should be the equiptment he uses.) The back-hoe should have a minimum extended reach of 14' from tractor supports so that the hoe can reach the desired depth of the pool from any angle and have adequate swing to enable loading of earth direcly into a dump truck, thus eliminating unnecessary handling of dirt. Extendable type hoes are desirable. After selecting the excavation contractor, you will want to have the contractor study the drawings of the particular pool he is to excavate. Establish the exact requirements of the job and set tolerances to which he is to dig the various sections of the excavation, In this way both you and the contractor will know in advance what performance each of you will be required to make to the other. Be sure he knows exactly what route he is to use in gaining access to the excavation site and where excess dirt is to be disposed. You may wish to incorporate the performance requirements and pool drawings into a contract so there will be no misunderstandings later on PLOT PLAN DRAW A PLOT PLAN ON REAR COVER SCALE 118" = 1' SELECTING THE POOL SITE OBSTRUCTIONS: Obstructions such as underground wires, gas lines, septic tanks, dry-well systems, plumbing, trees, overhead power lines, etc., must be considered before selecting a final pool site. If various obstructions are un- avoidable, a compromise must be resolved, keeping in mind that labor and material costs will be reflected in the total cost of the pool. Page 31 Page 4 SUN AND SHADE: Both can be important factors when determining the pool site best INSTALLING LINER ON STEP suited to your needs. Excessive shaded areas from trees and other buildings could result in uncomfortable swimming conditions during marginal weather months, and will considerably increase the costs of heating the pool water. Proper pool orientation will take advantage of all sunny days for comfortable swimming conditions, will decrease heating costs, and in some states will meet requirements set forth by the public health department pertaining to diving board placement. 1. Disassemble cover cap, face plate and 4. Fill pool with water until water level ROAD gasket not sealed to step reaches a point approximately 6" up vx? A on front of step unit. s ACCESS 2. Before installing liner cut a 2" x 4" to span the top of the step, Nail a piece 5. Using stainless steel screws provided, EASE OF EXCAVATION Try to locate the pool in such a manner so as to provide the of extrusion to the 2" x 4" to hold fasten face plate and gasket to step best access and most ideai working conditions. By placing the pool a few feet one way liner bead. This will eliminate any using all holes provided. See below for or the other, the owner may permit easier access by the backhoe, easier concrete stress during installation. (If you do assembly details. The recommended placement, improved digging conditions, easier dirt removal, and thus less costly labor. not have extrusion the liner can be tool for screw installation is a 1 1/2" taped to the 2" x 4".) long blade phillips screwdriver. Do not use a power drill or a ratchet type CONVENIENT ACCESS: The pool owner should determine the best placement of the 3. Install liner in entire pool using screwdriver, (In the unlikely event you pool in relation to dressing facilities and house exits. As you select your pool site, vacuum to draw it against walls, A should strip out a screw hole, larger make rough layouts where you think the pool might be located. Then consider decking piece of vinyl taped horizontally over screws for use in the stripped out hole and walkways by staking out their approximate positions. Now ask yourself: "Is the the top of the step opening will assist are available through your distributor.) total poolside living space convenient to dressing facilities and house exits?" vacuum in picking up suction (Alternately you can use duct tape 6. Using a sharp knife or razor blade cut THE LOCATION OF THE POOL IN RELATION TO OTHER BUILDINGS should be to temporarily seal back of liner to liner out as shown in sketch considered from an esthetic point of view as well as from practicality. Determine from step.) the point of "Eyeball Appeal" whether the pool should be laid out parallel, perpendicu- lar, or 450 to an existing building, building line, hedge row, fence, or some other definite object. AN ADVANCE KNOWLEDGE OF UNKNOWN SUB-SOIL CONDITIONS could definitely be helpful in determining the placement of the pool. It would be advisable under certain circumstances to probe the subgrade by boring a series of test holes, the results of which would indicate the best position and grade of the pool. Problems such as rocky substratum, high water table, clay, etc., would be indicated before construction and could be eliminated simply by moving the pool, or if conditions such as these are planned for in advance, the construction process will be as smooth and economical as possible. CHECK THE SELECTED LOCATION FOR GRADE. The pool floor must rest on un- disturbed earth Keep the top of the pool at least 3" to 4" above highest grade in the area. AVOID ANY SURFACE DRAINAGE BACK INTO THE POOL! The top of the pool wall coping is known as pool grade or "top surface." This elevation is used in setting up the transit as a reference point for all grades THE EQUIPTMENT LOCATIQN Both pool owner and pool builder should collaborate when deciding where the filter should be located. The following points should be included in your considerations: --'1 GASKET (SEALED TO STEP) GASKET CUT LINE .y ? FACE % PLATE SCREW-USE AWL TO GO THROUGH GASKET AND LINER AT EACH HOLE IN FACE PLATE BEFORE INSERTING ` POOL LINER SCREW. (TYPICAL) CUT LINE Page 5 Page 30 INSTALLING COVER PLATES 1" Flat Head Screw (12 Required) --- Duaa Face Plate Countersink for pan head securing screws ? 101? If a light is being installed wait until the light niche is under water before installing face ring. Install all face ring screws before cutting liner with sharp knife; then install light. DO NOT CUT OFF EXTRA CORD: WRAP AROUND LIGHT INSTEAD. Wall Panel Continue to fill pool until water level reaches a point just below the wall fittings. Then inst. skimmer and inlet gaskets and face plates by lining up holes as described above. r 1 L Base of Inlet EQUIPMENT Locate filter on concrete slab. Be sure to make the slab large enough for all equipment. Also consider at this time whether an enclosure will be erected. If so, plan slab size accordingly. Consider the possibility of later adding a heater, and if that is probable, be sure to enlarge the slab. Locate pump above water level of pool whenever possible. This prevents gravity flooding and simplifies winterization. 2. Keep the filter within 25 feet of the pool! By doing so, optimum pump perfor- mance is maintained Also the filter will be easily accessible for backwashing and other routine maintenance 3. Never locate the filter and pump more than two (2) feet above pool grade This will keep priming problems with the pump to a minimum. 4. Never locate the filter and pump in the basement! Pump noise could be annoy- ing Also the possibility does exist that a malfunction in plumbing could flood the basement. 5. Consider where the backwash water will run. Is there adequate drainage? Are there local codes requiring special methods of disposal of such? 6. Location of the filter is also important from an esthetic point of view. When making the rough layout of the pool, visualize placement of the filter and plan for future landscaping or enclosures. _% ? M- UTILITIES THE UTILITIES REQUIRED 1. Water 2. Electrical supply 3. Sewer, or adequate drainage 4. Fuel for heater: natural gas, propane, fuel oil, electricity Be sure that each utility requirement is adequate. Also take into account the present location of the utility and plan accordingly when laying out pool and equipment. Page 29 Page 6 Skimmer Throat LOCK NUi EXCAVATION LAYOUT LAYOUT OF POOL AREA. In order to provide working space when the pool wails are set in place, the outer dimensions of the excavation are made 24" larger on each side than the actual pool size. Set eight (8) rebar-rods to outline the excavation. (See draw- ing for appropriate "stakeout"). Rebar-rods should be 318" x 2'. Allowing for the 24" working border all around the pool, drive the first layout stake firmly into the ground in the excavation corner which has the highest elevation. From this stake as a working point, lay out the rest of the excavation as shown in the diagram and chart. PY B ---+I x AI 1 - -- Y ---RECTANGLE STAKEOUT !•--• oz •--+I X 1921 . EXCAVATION NOT POOL MEASUREMENTS EXCAVAIION EXCAVATION SIZE DIAGONALS POOL SIZE A B X. Y 12' X 24' 16' 28' 32'- 3" 14' X 28' 18' 32' 36- 8 518" 16' X 32' 20' 36' 41'- 2 114" 16' X 34' 20' 38' 42'- 11 114" 16' X 36' 20' 40' 44'- 8 314" 18' X 36' 22' 40' 45'- 7 314" 20' X 40' 24' 44' 50' 1112" ---GRECIAN STAKEOUT EXCAVATION EXCAVATION SIZE DIAGONALS POOL SIZE A B A2 82 X. Y 14'-6" X 29'-6" 181-6" 33'-6" 7'-9" 22' 7" 29'- 4" 16-6" X 32'-6" 20'-6" 36-6" 9'-7" 25-7" 32' -10112" TAPE 16-6" X 35'-6" 20'-6" 39'-6" 9'-7" 28'-7" 35- 3114" 1T-11" X 36-11" 21'-11" 40'-11" 9'-7" 28'-7" 36'- 2" 20'-9" X 39'-9" 24'-9" 43'-9" 9' 7" 28'-7" 38'- 0" Y / When you have co mpleted your layout, it must look like Diagram "B" before you can start excavation. IF STEPS ARE BEING INSTALLED, SEE DIAGRAM "C". The excavation layout is now squared. Next choose the level of the top of the pool. This surface will normally be the surrounding walk, patio deck, or highest ground elevation. The top surface of the pool (top of the coping) should be 3" above this highest ground elevation. MAIN DRAIN OPTIONAL Make a Main Drain Work Platform from a piece of plywood approx. 30" x 30"/ Cut a 1' hole in center. Cover one side with carpet (cut hole in carpet). This platform will distribute your weight and prevent marring the liner and bottom. Lower platform, carpet side down, over main drain. Lower ladder to platform. Use ladder to locate platform in exact position. Ladder weight will keep platform from floating out of position. Climb out of pool and remove ladder and work platform. As in the case of skimmer and inlet prep- aratory installation procedures, your main drain has been installed and the pri- mary gasket is fixed to the housing surface with Permatex. After the liner has been in- stalled, and with the vacuums still opera- ting, allow about 6"-8" of water to cover the hopper bottom. Then lower the work platform (fig. 1) over the main drain (fig. 2). Lower ladder onto platform (fig 3.). Care- fully descend ladder to platform. Place the secondary gasket on the liner and line up holes with gasket that is under the liner. Place the main drain face plate over the gasket and align its holes with the gaskets. Screw self-tapping screws through liner and into holes in drain housing. Use a sharp knife or razor to cut the liner material within the circle of the main drain face plate. Finally, install grate cover inside the face plate. at 4 ..J './ R :? ': r Page 7 Page 28 2 H.N. VACUUM 2 hp VENTURA VACUUM-BLOWER OR EQUIVALENT SEAL OPENING WITH DUCT TAPE Remove 12" of liner from the extrusion. Insert the hose of a heavy duty vacuum behind the liner in the deep end and another in the shallow end. The hose should extend to within 12" of the bottom of the wall panel. Using duct tape and/or rags, close the opening made by the vacuum hose. Turn the vacuum on, the liner will pull tight. After you have started the vacuum, you will notice that its suction will be helpful in removing wrinkles. ALL WRINKLES SHOULD BE REMOVED BEFORE WATER IS STARTED INTO THE POOL. If the vacuum is not powerful enough, begin adding water. The weight of the water will keep the liner from wrinkling again. REMEMBER. NEVER LET MORE THAN 1" OF WATER COVER ANY WR-I_NKLE_BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE IT. More water than that will make it impossible for you to work the wrinkle out. _WRINKLES WILL NOT DAMAGE THE LINER BUT A WRINKLE- FREE POOL IS MUCH BETTER LOOKING. .+l a With the vacuum running, start filling the pool with a garden hose. Lay the hose on the bottom; do not allow the water to splash in, as this may cause depressions in the bottom. Any wrinkles must be smoothed out as the water level continues to rise. NEVER PERMIT THE POOL TO FILL FASTER THAN YOU CAN WORK OUT WRINKLES. STOP THE WATER IF NECESSARY. REMEMBER THAT A WRINKLE LEFT AT THIS TIME IS PERMANENT. The vacuum should continue to run until there is 6" of water in the shallow end. Stop the water fill. remove the vacuum, and reinstall the liner bead. DO NOT FILL BEYOND THIS POINT BEFORE REMOVING VACUUM. Page 27 Choose as your reference for the top elevation of the pool a point on a deck or patio that is not in the way of excavation or dirt removal. If it is in the way, transpose this elevation to a sidewalk, mortar joint on a block basement wall, or even a stake driven in an out-of-the-way place. Mark this point in a conspicuous manner so that it may be re- ferred to later in the construction process. If the transit is taken down before excavation is complete, always reset the transit to the reference point. Try to locate the transit so that it will not interfere with excavation or dirt removal. Once the top surface of the pool has been established, outline the excavation, between the stakes, with either flour, agricultural lime, or aerosol paint. This outline will serve as the boundary to which the excavator will dig. Wall height 42", coping 2 314". add 3" for good deck drainage. Total is 47 314" TRANSIT EXCAVATION Using your previously marked reference point for the top elevation of the pool, determine the depth of the initial excavation by adding to that top elevation 3". This will be the elevation for the top of the coping. The depth of the footing excavation will then be 44 3/4" (the wall height of 42" plus the coping height of 2 3/4") from the reference point. Remember. the reference point is the top of the pool INCLUDING the coping! IMPORTANT: ALWAYS MEASURE EXCAVATION DEPTH FROM REFERENCE POINT! The 44 3/4" depth, measured from the top of the coping, will be maintained in the shallow end and on the 36" wide working ledge around the pool wall perimeter. On hopper or flat bottom pools, the first operation is to dig the 24" wide working ledge to a uniform depth of 44 3/4" below the reference point selected as the top surface of the pool. This is done on one side and across the deep end. To accomplish this efficiently, set up a shot stick in the following manner: (1) Select a 2" x 2" or other similar stick approximately 15' long. (2) After setting and leveling the transit in an appropriate place, mark the shot stick by placing it at the selected elevation, and marking it at the transit level. Do this by sighting through the shot stick. A pencil mark on the stick at the point where the cross hairs in the transit intersect the shot stick will indicate the transit level Mark off an additional 44 3/4" above the level mark on the shot stick and place the stick in the hole as the excavator digs. When the 44 3/4" mark is in the level sight of the transit, you know that this part of the hole is at proper depth TO STRETCH OUT SMOOTHLY. Page 8 POOL WALL ERECTION A level foundation of undisturbed earth should be provided where the wall sections will be installed As final hand trimmings of the excavation are being made, the wall panels should be laid on the ground and a dry-marker used to mark a line 2" up from the bottom of each panel, completely along the length of each panel, so that when the panels are put into place, a line can be seen 2" up from the bottom around the interior of the entire pool CAPPER Mow r NEW LINER INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Most problems occur around steps, roman ends and shallow end walls. On pools we have seen in the field. all have shown the base seal to be five to ten inches out from the wall causing excessive amount of strain on the seal. The normal finished dimension of our walls is forty inches, We use thirty-nine inch wall material which allows for one inch of stretch. If you took a thirty-nine inch piece of material and tried to stretch it five to ten inches you can readily see how much strain is put on the base seal. Most problems in the installation of the liner develop in the shallow end. We feel if more attention is paid to securing the base seal in the shallow end, especially around steps and roman ends, most of your field problems would be avoided. To secure the base seal, we strongly urge the use of either sand bags or double tube water bags We realize that most liners manufactured in the United States are folded with instruct- ions to start at the deep end. This puts the bulk of the liner's weight in the deep end. C0Pil?r, 'AMES On a hot day the liner has tendency to stick to the bottom, making it rather difficult to pull the shallow end base seals up, where they belong. With this thought in mind, all of our liners are fan-folded with instructions to unfold and start at the shallow end, stopping just short of the transition between shallow end and deep end. At this point while there is no strain on the liner, install steps or roman ends, where applicable, and insert bead into coping extrusions around shallow end. Secure base seal, especially at corners and steps, with either sand bags or double tube water bags. You are now ready to hang the rest of the liner in the deep end. -5-rk-EL P?n? * v? s?RkE A-.rR,9M, pErAll. SK/mM45-R 5aPPVRT Page 9 After the liner is secured, we suggest that you use two vacuums to hold the liner in place - one on the shallow end and one on the deep end. Take time to position the liner properly and pull out wrinkles before starting to fill the pool with water. Have at least a foot of water in the bottom of the hopper before installing the sealing ring on the main drain. Do not install the face plates on the inlets, lights, or skimmers until the water is over top of the openings. IF YOU ARE USING A FIBERGLASS STEP, DO NOT INSTALL THE FACE PLATES ON THE STEP UNTIL YOU HAVE 5 OR 6 INCHES OF WATER IN THE SHALLOW END. INSTALLING THE FACE PLATES ON THE STEP BEFORE YOU HAVE WATER IN THE SHALLOW END WILL CAUSE THE LINER TO STRETCH AROUND THE FACE PLATES AND MAY LEAVE WRINKLES OR CAUSE THE LINER TO TEAR AROUND THE STEPS. BE SURE THAT ALL SCREWS IN FACE PLATE OF INLETS, LIGHTS, SKIMMERS, MAIN DRAIN, AND STEPS ARE TIGHT. If you are in doubt of have a problem, don't hesitate to call your nearest Cente" Dealer or our office in Clay City, Kentucky. Page 26 ?,__ RAplus 60Kn0? READ INSTRUCTIONS! k? k? k? A k? Place carton on edges of shallow end. THIS PRODUCT Z Unfold. Carry unfold liner to transition of shallow end and deep end and rest liner on bottom. IS FAN-FOLDED After shallow end has been 4 pulled and positioned, deep end wall will be on top of remaining folds. Grasp corners of deep end wall and pull to deep end and install. Grasp corners of 3 exposed top flap and pull to shallow end of pool. Position and install end wall. Secure liner at corners ((plus roman ends and steps where applicable) with sand bags. C?? CAUTION a DO NOT DRAG MATERIAL ON ROUGH SURFACE After the panels have had the line placed 2" up from the bottom of the walls, you are now ready to lower the panels into the overdug area of the pool and rest them against the side of the excavation. Make a final check to see that the skimmer panel and inlet panels are placed in the desired location. (The manufacturer recommends that the skimmer panel be placed in the middle of the wall toward which the wind blows.) After the panels have been properly placed in the excavation, the next step is to bolt them together. Start bolting the panels together at one corner, using the excavation stakes as a reference mark. Working out from the corner in both directions will make the wall self- supporting as the assembly progresses around the pool. Where two panels bolt to- gether except at a corner an ADJUSTABLE A FRAME IS USED. THIS IS ALSO IN- STEPS AND LINER, page 11. Take a sight through the transit as each panel is joined to ensure that the pool level is maintained. Once squared, the long wall parallel to the property line should not be moved. Check each panel joint for level in relation to the first corner assembly. Be sure to install A-FRAMES at each panel joint except on corners. As each panel is leveled and inside surfaces are in line, bolts may be tightened. When the wall is completely assembled, the POOL MUST BE SQUARED. This is accomplished by checking the diagonal measurements from the outside corners of the pool. When these two diagonal measurements are equal, drive a stake rod through the base of the panels near the corner. Now check the alignment of the bottom of the panels by using a string line, This line may be maintained straight by driving a steel stake near each panel joint. These stakes are only temporary and should not be driven down so far that removal is impossible after the concrete collar has been poured. To align the top of the pool you again use the string by stretching tight from one corner to the next corner. When all of your panels are straight and true, use the rebars furnished to finish staking in the panels. This will hold panels until the final phases of construction. Page 25 Page 10 BEFORE A SAFE LINER INSTALLATION CAN BE MADE. If you have installed steps on your pool you should bring the finish grade in front of the steps at least 1" above joint of the step bottom and the concrete pad or blocks supporting the bottom of the steps. This grade should then be brought back to the finish pool grade, from both sides and in front of the step, in as short a distance as is practical, to avoid liner wrinkles and to maintain a reasonable grade for walking from !APAN<J0N the steps into the pool. WIVI, - Page 11 fill; COPING INSTALLATION COP LINE BEA REC LINER BEAD RECEIVER -APPING SCREW WALL Y BULLNOSE concrete receptor coping is standard on all pools and is fastened to the steel wall panel from above, with self-tapping screws. Coping should be installed by starting at a corner, with the pre-cut 6" length placed over the 6" radius filler on the top flange. It is advisable to have a helper hold coping in place to keep it from moving away from the walls. If you use a variable speed 318" drill with socket to fit screws, it is not necessary to pre-drill coping. Otherwise use a drill bit size 9164" and proceed until all coping has been installed. After all coping is installed, put in place the beauty clips furnished to cover all cut joints. Next use duct tape to tape the flange, below the liner bead receptor, to the wall. This wi!1 make it easier to get good suction and vacuum air from between liner and wall. TAPE COPING FLANGE TO WALL FOR BETTER SUCTION Page 24 FINAL BOTTOM FINISHING Bottom finishing can be accomplished by progressing either from shallow to deep end or deep to shallow end. If you choose to finish from shallow to deep end, the men must be provided with a means of getting into and out of the pool without disturbing the already finished areas. For this purpose, a wooden extension ladder with a 12" x 36" board nailed to the bottom should be set into the hopper. This will enable the workmen to climb out of the pool without disturbing the finished bottom. figure C: r 1' % As deep end slopes are completed and hopper bottom is trowelled, strings and nails should be removed from hopper frame and sand or vermiculite trowelled over hopper frame as shown in Fig. C. You are now finished with the pool bottom. It is now time for a review. Please do not proceed until you have had your review. REVIEW 1 Have you obtained all permits? 2. Have you made plans for all utilities? 3. Are all nuts; bolts, screws, A-Frames tight and are all walls properly aligned? 4. Has all plumbing been installed and pressure tested? 5 Is the pool bottom installed smoothly and to correct finish dimensions? Did you allow for hot weather on dimension C? This can be up to a 3" increase. 6. Have you made arrangements to rill your pool with water? 7. If you have done all of the above correctly, pat yourself on the back, You soon will be swimming in your beautiful pool. BUILT BY YOU"' Page 23 IMPORTANT IF YOU ARE INSTALLING A MAIN DRAIN PLACE UNDER THE WALL, LENGTHS OF PLUMBING PIPE SUFFICIENT TO REACH THE FLOOR OF THE POOL WHERE THE MAIN DRAIN WILL BE SET YOU ARE NOW READY TO POUR CONCRETE. To prevent the concrete from flowing under the wall and into the pool, all spaces under the walls should be packed with sand, dirt, or strips of wood. It is recommended that you pour a concrete collar around the entire perimeter of the pool. When the concrete truck arrives, place one wheelbarrow of very dry concrete on each adjustable A-FRAME, then ask the concrete truck operator to make the mixture very soupy so that it can be puddled around the pool with rakes and shovels. BE CERTAIN THAT ALL AREAS OF THE POOL WALLS ARE COVERED TO A DEPTH OF AT LEAST 4 6" IS EVEN BETTER. BE CERTAIN THAT THE STEPS ARE BRACED ACROSS THE FRONT WITH THE 2 x 6 DESCRIBED IN THE INSTALLATION OF STEPS. FAILURE TO BRACE THE BOTTOM OF STEPS WILL RESULT IN BOWING INTO THE POOL AND WILL CAUSE AN UNSIGHTLY APPEARANCE. 4 yards of concrete is needed for a 16 x 32 pool, 5 yards for an 18 x 36, and 6 yards for a 20 x 40 pool. DO NOT SKIMP ON CONCRETEI THIS IS YOUR BEST INSURANCE FOR A VERY SATISFACTORY POOL INSTALLATION. ELECTRICAL Before proceeding with the installation, be sure to arrange for a licensed electrician to ground the pool according to local and national codes and also make all electrical connections required for the pump and any optional equiptment. REFER TO ANY AND ALL LOCAL BUILDING CODES REGARDING YOUR INSTALLATION. FAILURE TO COMPLY MAY RESULT IN FINES, A STOP WORT{ ORDER, OR OTHER FORMS OF ENFORCEMENT. DO NOT ASSUME! ALLWAYS CHECK! BE RIGHT, NOT SORRY!! PLUMBING INSTALLATION BECAUSE OF THE VARIETY OF SHAPES, SIZES AND TYPES OF PUMPS FILTERS, HEATERS SLIDES, AND CLEANING EQUIPMENT PLEASE SEE SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS SUPPLIED WITH THE PARTICULAR PRODUCTS YOU ARE USING. ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE DRAWINGS OF INDIVIDUAL ITEMS. USE THEM ONLY FOR REFERENCE. ALWAYS CHECK MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS WHEN AVAILABLE NEVER VIOLATE ANY LOCAL CODES. WHEN IN DOUBT CHECK!!! Page 12 LIGHT INSTALLATION DIAGRAM iameter les eq-sp (180°) 1/2" B.C.D. liner screws iameter ales eq-sp Ill" B.C.D. ling screws 10" O.C. Max.- Niche Body 12 3116" O.D.- Niche Flange EQUIPMENT: (1) Paddle-type mixer (five cu, ft, capacity), (2) One 55 gallon drum for water; (3) Five gallon pails for measuring mixed vermiculite material into excavation (See item #4 under "Mixing Instructions"); (4) Sufficient length of hose for filling water drum and swimming pool; (5) Several round edge, flexible swimming pool trowels (14 or 16 inch); (6) One long-handled shovel. MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: (1) Introduce water first and then the Portland cement in proper proportions into the paddle-type mixer, (2) While rotating the mixer, slowly add the proper amount of vermiculite until all the aggregate is in the mixer; (3) Keep rotating the drum for at least 60 seconds after all the aggregate is in the mixer. Adjust mixing time and amount of water to find a workable consistency. Do not overmix. (See item #4 under "Additional Mixing Tips"); (4) Convey the prepared mixture into exca- vation in buckets and proceed with installation. FORMULATION: (1:8 MIX PROPORTION) - each bag of vermiculite pool base aggregate contains 4 cu, ft. at time of filling. VERMICULITE For 5 cu. ft. mixer 112 bag 1 bag For 9 cu. ft mixer 1 bag 2 bags WATER 24 - 25 Wall Panel Gaskets (3) ADDITIONAL MIXING TIPS: Here are some helpful hints from experienced installers: Ground Connector (1) For sloped sections, use a stiffer mix (accomplished by using less water and/or shorter mixing time). The greater the degree of pitch, the stiffer the mix should be. "?X=- Stainless Steel Niche (2) Be sure your mixer is clean and free of debris. (3) Make sure the proper amounts IJ (Fixture Housing) of ingredients are used in each batch. (4) Check your mix for these visual 1 characteristics: (a) Has uniform gray cement color. (b) No dry or unmixed material Stainless P?Jnyl Liner visible. (c) Has consistency of whipped cream. (5) Avoid overmixing (6) Do not Steel Screws install a base made with vermiculite on a day when rain is threatening. (7) If sub- 114-20 x 1" FH internal ground stratum is excessively dry or contains a large percentage of sand, wet it down (10) required Lug for: thoroughly before applying the mix. (8) if mix conveyed into the pool bottom turns out GN-5LHPVC & to be too wet for application to sloped surfaces, trowel up only to the point where the "- - -- I GN-5LHPVC=1 mix begins to slide back. Move sideways and apply to the next area Continue in this only manner around the hopper. By the time you return to the original area, the concrete will have set sufficiently to enable application of a second "course" above the first. (9) On FACE PLATE extremely hot, dry days, more water may be needed to achieve proper consistency in (Brass-Chrome) your mix. (10) In areas where winter temperatures drop rapidly and often to sub-zero f readings, some installers place the mix on a chicken wire mesh for added protection against cracking. (11) If you run into an extremely rough or rocky hole, it may help to -- - -?j apply the mix very roughly to fill in gouges and cover stones. When mix has set up CountersunkD'* A- - ^fi - - slightly, surface can be moistened and trowelled to a smooth, final finish. (12) Ver- for Retainer Screw Back Up Ring miculite is not recommended for use in sidewalks or decks around pools. Retainer Screw - -- 12-24 x 112", Fillister HD 114 oz of Liquid "Joy" Soap creates a petroleum base (2) required for easy and smooth trowelling. Page 13 Page 22 INSTALLING THE POOL BOTTOM UNDER WATER LIGHT Light switch 115V- ' Ha: CARPENTERS - deck box LEVEL , RAKE ground SHOVEL B _ ?{ ?? ' ROLLER SAND BOTTOM ?-? Male fittings The bottom of the pool is finished directly to the 2" line up from the bottom of the Light conduit panels. About 2" of a "lake" or "mason's" sand will give this depth. Wet and tamp solid all loose earth in the pool bottom before adding the sand. Particular care should be taken with the tamping of the sand bottom. The smoothness and evenness of this bottom will determine the appearance of the liner when it is placed in the pool. In order to get maximum compaction and evenness of surface, it is suggested that the sand be 18" minimum drenched thoroughly and deeply with water before and after placement in the pool. to lens top Coil excess, cord This will allow the finishing operation to proceed orderly and one section of the bottom around light will not dry out before the finishing is completed and the liner set into place. To attain a aroro not cut off thoroughly compact sand bottom, the wet sand should first be tamped with a hand (Do tamper. Work should progress at the shallow end and proceed to the deep end. The Niche shallow end should be dished toward the center approximately 2" to ensure good liner fit, except when using an automatic pool cleaner. If using galvanized or PVC Pipe install 450 elbows never 900 elbows. VERMICULITE For 120 Volt Light use 314" pipe for 12 Volt adapt 1". Vermiculite is an aggregate which when added to cement and used as a base for in ground vinyl liner pools offers benefits such as less liner abrasion, longer liner life. porosity, insulation properties, and firmness. The bottom of the pool is finished directly to the 2" line as in the sand bottom procedure About 1 112" - 2" of Vermiculite. Zonalite, C.P.B.A. (Concrete Pool Base Aggregate) or equivalent and concrete is trowelled into place to give this depth. THE FOLLOWING IS A STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE FOR MIXING. PLACING, AND FINISHING VERMICULATE POOL BASE BOTTOM. MATERIALS: To install a vermiculite pool base, you will need sufficient quantities of the following: (1) Vermiculite Pool Base Aggregate (available in 4 cu. ft. bags); (2) Portland cement, type #1 (CAUTION. ALWAYS USE PLAIN PORTLAND CEMENT; NEVER USE AN AIR-ENTRAINED CEMENT.) (3) Clean water, suitable for use with Portland cement, free from deleterious amounts of acid, alkali or organic matter, which might adversely affect the setting or curing of the Portland cement. LIGHT INSTALLATION MUST ADHERE TO LOCAL ELECTRICAL CODES Snake the 3-conductor electric cord through the conduit outlet of the fixture housing (niche), into the conduit, and up to the junction box. DO NOT CUT EXCESS CORD! The extra footage of cord is provided to allow for raising the fixture to the pool deck for re-lamping. Leave sufficient cord to reach from fixture housing to deck. Coil this excess cord around the lighting fixture and insert the bottom lug of the front rim into the groove of the fixture housing mounting rim. Align the face rim lock screw with the tapped hole on the mounting rim, and secure. LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Page 21 Page 14 INSTALLATION OF WALL FITTINGS AND MAIN DRAIN If you will follow the installaton drawings as shown you should experience easy installation. After all the fittings have been installed, start the installation of plumbing - either poly pipe or schedule 40 pipe may be used. Please follow the suggestions provided for a quality and trouble-free installation. VINYL LINER FACE PLATE SCREWS a r^'_ 0" (GASKET SECURING SCREWS 518" PAN HEAD G (2 REQUIRED) GALVANIZED STEEL WALL PANEL EXPANSION JOINT ADJUSTABLE COLLAR COVER L ?V?O?Citd?• vp WIER GASKET PLASTIC PIPE SCH 40 PVC SP-1408 • • LOCK NUT1} WASHER ? SPACER POOL STEF'.. WALL BASKET ,u-to _ PLASTIC PIPE ' SCH 40 PVC ADAPTER FITTING and Q CAP ??....•• GASKET POOL LINER GASKET ikimmer SCH 40 PVC iCH 40 PVC fitting Inlet Page 15 PVC elbow Main Drain Slope to main drain - 777 Page 20 ",r 2 x 2 Frame ? , ...?' C_t2 Sand or vermiculite bottom POOL BOTTOM PREPARATION TAPE 'Al- HAMMER Once the walls are up and footings are poured, check the depth in various sections of the pool bottom and hopper in relation to the TOP OF THE WALL. If the excavator has worked carefully, the pool floor should be very near its exact depth and only a small amount of hand trimming will be necessary. As mentioned before, the depths may be made 2" deeper than required but may not be made less than the dimensions shown. The final sizing of the pool bottom governs the smooth future appearance of the liner in the finished pool Fabricate a jig of 2" x 2" lumber according to the dimensions of the hopper bottom for the particular pool being installed. The hopper bottom dimensions should be measured inside to inside when constructing the jig. In order to set this jig in the exact position, the following procedure should be followed: 1. Measuring from the end wall in the deep end of the pool towards the shallow end of the pool, make a mark on the top of the side wall assembly at measurement D (shown on following page). Do this on both sides. 2. Using a 2 x 4 long enough to span the width fo the pool, align one edge of the 2 x 4 with marks on top of the pool wall. 3. Make a mark on the 2 x 4 which corresponds to the inside edge of the pool. Do this on both ends of the 2 x 4. 4. Remove the 2 x 4 and measure 4' from each mark towards the center of the 2 x 4. Mark. 5. Drive 2 nails on the 4' mark on the edge of the 2 x 4 Leave nails protruding enough to hang a plumb bob. 6. Replace 2 x 4 on top of pool walls, aligning the edge of 2 x 4 where nails were placed with the 4' mark on the pool wall. 7. Next align the 4' mark on 2 x 4 with inside edge of the pool. 8. Hang plumb bob on nails. Plumb bob will then indicate the front 2 corners of the hopper frame. 9. Position 2 front corners of hopper frame and stake into place. 10. Measure diagonals on hopper frame to square rear corners with front corners and stake into place. 11. Set the elevation of this jig at the same elevation as the main drain, if one is used. The next step is to set strings from the inside corners of the hopper frame to the panel joints of the corner panels in the deep end, and to the beginning of the break from shallow to deep end. 2' pins should be driven in next to the panels at these points. Strings should be fastened to the pins so as to correspond with a point 2" up from the bottom of the panel. Gate Valve or 4-way Ball Valve qjS **NOTE: It an automatic, pool cleaner is planned for im- mediate or future installa- tion, it is essential that a return fitting be located at the center of the long wall closest to the filter svstem. HEATFR FILTER ? PUMP & MOTOR '2 RETURN MAIN DRAIN (optional) SKIMMER RETURN R 1 f U- -? 1 Run pipes straight down to virgin ground, Or, if concrete collar has already been poured, run pipe to top of collar--NOTE use thin layer of fine earth on top of collar to cushion pipe Page 19 Page 16 INSTALLING PLASTIC PIPING SCHEDULE 40 PVC With the fittings already in place, you can begin to plumb the pool by installing plastic piping. First, partially backfill and hand tamp around the pool with good drainage gravel that is free of rocks, large boulders, and debris. Backfill approximately halfway up the wall. Never use heavy clay soil or sand for backfilling because they will not pack properly or provide adequate drainage. Lay out your piping making certain that the suction line slants toward the filter whenever possible. Be sure that pipes are installed away from the pool wall, bracing system, and any other sharp objects which could cut the pipe. Be careful to fully seal all pipe connections to eliminate the possibility of water or air leaks. Many experienced installers pressure test the lines before burying them. A few minutes of extra care in checking lines can save a lot of time in repair work later. Valve Inlet Circulating Line Pool Wall Plug ?r FRENCH DRAIN - OPTIONAL THIS PROCEDURE IS TO BE USED ONLY IF AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF WATER IS PRESENT WHEN THE EXCAVATION IS MADE. LUG CONCRETE DECK 1?FEMALE COUPLER COMPACTED EARTH OR CONCRETE PAD --? 4 - 1/4" DRILLED HOLES EQUALLY SPACED AROUND PIPE SCREEN MAIN DRAIN - OPTIONAL A4cE G1"MrE 6- 2Y" - - ? GRSKE7s L/b1 YG LNlI --1 TO PUMP MAIN DRAIN: If a main drain is to be used it is advisable to set it into a concrete pad approximately 2'x 2' x 6". If concrete is not used be sure the earth is packed tightly around it. The pipe must be buried at least 6" below the side bank and wall. Extra care should be taken in assembling the components. Direct the pipe either toward the pump or the bottom of the skimmer. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS 1. ARE ALL NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS TIGHT? 2. ARE WALLS LEVEL AND STRAIGHT? 3. ARE ALL ACCESSORIES IN PLACE? 4. ARE STEPS (IF USED) AND LADDERS PROPERLY BRACED? Pressure Gauge Page 17 Page 18 After you have pressure tested all lines for your plumbing installation, you may complete the backfilling, or at least bring the backfill up 112 way on the wall panels.