HomeMy WebLinkAbout0266.95.7IMPORTANT NOTES
LIFICATIONS
lded for use only by persons knowledgeable in and familiar
led methods, techniques and standards for garage
sons who are properly trained and competent in the safe
and machinery that may be necessary for the construction
istruction of this garage by any persons without these
NOT be attempted.
IFICATIONS
Is must be placed in undisturbed soil that has a minimum
It of 2000 p.s.f. Loft Floors are designed for a live load of
)d load of 10 pounds. Garage roofs have been designed to
., live load plus dead load) of 27 pounds per square foot.
ad bearing capacity can be changed by altering the size
members as directed in the "Rafter Load" tables within the
T1ake no special provisions for high wind conditions.
and /or altered construction techniques may be required to
) and requirements.
rERIALS SPECIFICATIONS
in these garages must have a minimum Modulus of
106 and Fiber Stress in Bending factor (Fb) of 875 p.s.i.
,ture content of the lumber is not to exceed 19 %. Footings
I a minimum compressive strength of 2500 p.s.i. All nails,
al connectors must be of hot dipped galvanized steel.
other manufactured products are to be installed according
ecifications. No allowances have been made for temporary
I material, foundation reinforcing materials, concrete, beam
addle, paint and stain or associated sundries in the material
•ed to build a "Gambrel" style garage, with an upstairs loft,
er, an optional front cargo door, and an optional beam for
sizes are included in these plans:
,ep;
!ep;
,ep;
is 8' tall main walls with two 9' wide x Thigh single
wide garages have a 15' wide loft space with T tall side
(rages have a 17' wide loft space with 8'- 1-1/8 inch tall
OF THESE PLANS
If drawings contains full plans for garages in several
need to locate the foundation plans, framing plans,
ing details, rafter template and the cross - sectional that
3arage you intend to build and disregard the other
lions are shown for each garage size. Separate
:luded for each garage size. All garage elevations are
al" examples.
:e materials list for each garage size option. Quantities
hown. Plywood T1 -11 siding and two 9 foot wide garage
be materials list as standard. Materials for other optional
in separate add -on materials lists at the end of each
4GE INSTRUCTIONS
entire instructions before beginning construction of your
t to purchase a good reference book to supplement these
instructions are clear, concise, and as comprehensive as
space available, they are not meant to be the last word
as of building a garage.
ion plan for each width shows the overall dimensions and
/pica) for all walls, as well as the location of the support
oor loft. A separate foundation plan segment contained
ig plans show the correct size and spacing for the
and footings required for each depth option.
)ge size and options you want to use. Then, on the plans,
i details you'll need to refer to. Get answers to any
:fore you begin work. Once the foundation is in place,
nters could probably erect this garage (including siding
days. Depending on your skill level, plan to spend 3 or 4
yourself.
), consult with your lumberyard.
GARAGE
tors in choosing your garage location are driveway
restrictions for side and rear building setbacks from your
with your building inspector for setback requirements and
iot be built in line with your driveway, be sure to allow
ar vehicle to curve through the door. If a very long
ractical to back out to the street (which is illegal in some
turn - around area beside the garage.
Mled on a location, make sure there are no underground
ty lines, sewers or septic tanks. Check for trouble
-tric, phone or cable lines that may be in the way or
th during construction and once your garage is built. Call
inies for assistance and advice.
TED
the building inspector's office, if required. Order all
See "Materials List ") from your lumberyard and have the
a spot convenient to your construction site. Familiarize
(See "Tools List ") you will be using during construction.
- onstruction process, measure twice before you make a
1e and limit wasted materials. Plan to have helpers on
)undation, standing the walls, and setting the rafters in
,t of the tools you'll need for this project:
ng felt)
J, 2 foot minimum)
iper
LAYING OUT THE GARAGE
This is the most critical step of your larage construction. In order for the
roof to fit well, the garage must be squan, level, and built to exact dimensions.
Lay out the garage properly, and it will gctogether like a well -made jigsaw
puzzle. Do it wrong, however, and you'll )till feel like you're putting together a
puzzle - but with mismatched pieces!
Note: If you plan to hire a concrete contnctor to pour the foundation of your
garage; laying out the garage and buildirq the forms can be included in the
contractors duties---
Here's the procedure:
1. Drive stakes into the ground to appraimately mark the placement of one
corner and two adjacent sides of thegarage.
2. Make batter boards, using 2x4 stake and a 2x4 cross -piece (make sure
the cross -piece is nailed level). Batt1r boards make it easy to adjust the
string lines used to precisely lay out ne garage, and ensure the garage is
square.
3. Drive the batter boards into the grouid about 2 feet outside the stakes
marking the corner. (See Detail "A ".
DETAIL A - LAYINGOUT GARAGE
STRING
�� 41�_ - - , - I ,,,:�
,
/ OUTLUE OF GARAGE 1� 11
I
\ 3'
Your contractor should be responsible for setting any forms necessary,
pouring the concrete for the foundation, post footing(s) and floor, and setting the
anchor bolts and beam support post(s) in place. (See Detail "E ".) To protect the
beam support post from the possibility of being hit by a car, we suggest placing
4 inches diameter. concrete - filled steel posts, called "Bollards ", around the
beam support post; two Bollards at every side of the post on which a car may
drive. They should be imbedded in 12 inches of concrete and extend at least 36
inches above the floor. (See Detail "KK ".) If you are using the monolithic slab
with a block curb, extra care and planning will be required to get the anchor
bolts in the correct position so they don't interfere with laying the block, and are
set at the proper height for attaching the mudsill.
,- 2 X 4 STUDS @ 16" O.C.
DETAIL E - FOUNDATION AT DOORWAY
���
..
-1 �
2 X 4 TREATED MUDSILL (LINE UP OUTSIDE EDGE
OF SILL FLUSH WITH FACE OF FOUNDATION)
1/2" DIA. ANCHOR BOLTS (REFER TO FOUNDATION
PLAN FOR SPACING)
SILL SEALER
JACK STUD
BLOCK DOWN FOUNDATION @ SERVICE DOOR
OPENING OR GARAGE DOOR OPENING
14. With a helper or two, "walk up" each wall frame and lift the unit onto the
anchor bolts. Since the anchors alone can't hold the walls in place, nail
three 2x4's to the sides of the studs, just below the top plate (one at each
end, the other in the center), to act as temporary bracing. Rest the ends of
the bracing on the ground. Tilt the walls out so they're 1 inch out of plumb
(to make it easier to set the front and back walls in place); then stake the
free ends of the bracing to the ground. Put the washers and nuts on the
anchor bolts, but don't tighten them.
15. Frame the front and back walls. Follow the procedure for the side walls
(Steps 8 -13) except locate the first stud 11 -3/4 inches from the end of the
mudsill or plate. This allows for the thickness of the side wall so the stud
layout begins at the corner of the building, where the sheathing and siding
layout starts (11 -3/4 inches plus 3 -1/2 inches equals 15 -1/4 inches).
16. The front and rear walls each have a beam support post made of three
studs cut to the correct height and nailed together. At the rear wall, a full
height stud is nailed to either side of this post, creating a "pocket" for the
beam. (See Detail "CC" as well as the Front and Rear Framing Elevations
on the plans). The top of the beam must set flush with the top of the
double top plates. To find the correct length for cutting the studs which
form the beam support post, use two pieces of scrap 2x4 to simulate the
double top plate and, holding them in position at the top of the studs,
measure down the depth of the beam. To make each post, nail two 2x4's
together with a pair of 12d nails every 16 inches. Add the additional
members one piece at a time, nailing them in the same manner. Note: To
simplify construction and make setting the wall in place easier, install the
top plates without interruption, as though there were no beam pocket. This
makes the wall much stiffer and easier to handle; later, when it is time to
set the beam, saw through and remove that portion of the plates which
obstructs the beam pocket.
17. Stand the rear wall in place, using braces to support it. At each corner,
make sure that both walls are set firmly down on the foundation and the top
plates are even with one another, then fasten the walls together by face
nailing through the single stud into the corner post with a pair of 12d nails
-- CONCRETE GARAGE FLOOR SLAB every 12 inches. Start near the bottom and work up, pus hing or pulling on
�- BATTER BOARD . I , ;_ the single stud as necessary to align the corner. You may need to loosen
I n: CRUSHED GRAVEL BELOW SLAB
:. some of the braces holding the walls up during this process; be sure and
- sTAKFS � re- secure these braces before proceeding to the next step.
4. Estimate the location of the remainiq 3 comers, and construct batter NOTE: IF THERE IS A CONFLICT BETWEEN THE ANCHOR BOLT LOCATION AND
18. After the corners are fastened together, install the second top plate on the
boards for each one. THE STUD LOCATION, RECESS THE NUT AND WASHER INTO THE PLATE AND
5. Run string lines between the batter bards to mark the exact location of the CUT OFF THE ANCHOR BOLT FLUSH WITH THE TOP OF THE PLATE. rear Wall. Any joints t In the plate. top plate Should be at least se inches
to
garage walls. away from joints in the top plate. At the wall intersections, the second top
6. gar get the layout perfectly square, we the 3 -4 -5 method at each corner. Once the foundation has set according to the contractor's plate overlaps at the corner joints to tie the frames together. Fasten the
recommendations, replace the soil that was disturbed while constructing the second top plate, using a pair of 12d nails every 32 inches, and three 12d
Starting in one corner at the intersecion of two of the string lines, measure foundation; open trenches and piles of dirt can slow the construction process nails at the corner overlap. (See Detail "F ".)
3 feet along one line and 4 feet along the other. Using a felt - tipped pen, and be very hazardous. 19. Assemble the garage door headers (a 1/2 inch plywood spacer sandwiched
mark both of these measurements. -hen measure diagonally between the When the area around the garage has been prepared and the floor slab between two 2x1 2's). (See Detail "71 ".) Make sure the ends of all the
marks. If the corner is perfectly square, the diagonal distance between has hardened sufficiently to work on, mark the inside edges of the garage walls boards are flush with each other. To nail the boards together, use three
these two points will be exactly 5 fee. using a chalkline. Check for square by measuring the diagonals between the 4 12d nails, one about 2 inches from the top of the header, one about 2
7. Double -check for square by measurig diagonally between each pair of corners (they should match). Then make sure the wall lines are parallel. If inches from the bottom of the header, and one in the center. Do this every
corners. The measu rem ents- shouldbe equal. If they're not, recheck your necessary; s they're not, adjust the wall markings it is acceptable for the wall
corners using the 3 -4 -5 method. y � g y p 16 inches along the length of the header, starting and ending about 6
to protrude slightly (up to 1/4 inch) outside the foundation in order to correct any inches from either end. Turn the header over, and repeat this nailing
8. On the batter boards, use a felt -tip pen to mark the final location of the nails irregularities in the foundation.
holding the string lines. That way, if a nail pulls loose, you can easily procedure from the other side.
FRAMING THE WALLS
replace it. As you work, it may be easier to take the strings down, but you
should replace them periodically to deck your progress. Generally, walls are constructed laying flat and then stood up into place as
THE FOUNDATION AND FLOOR a unit. The same basic methods will also be used for building the second floor DETAIL T1 - GARAGE DOOR
loft walls, with a few variations (i.e. the treated mudsill is replaced by a bottom 1/2' PLYWOOD
There are a variety of foundations, concrete stem wall, concrete block stem late, there are no anchor bolts, etc.). The left and right side walls extend the
wall, or monolithic slab, that are approprate for a garage. Refer to Details "B ", P g SHEATHING
entire length of the foundation and have corner posts at each end. Frame and
"C ", and "D" and consult with your lumberyard to help you decide which 2-2X4
erect these two walls first, then frame the front and rear walls. Layout and cut DOUBLE TOP PLATE
foundation is best for your situation.
Because the foundation is critical toa properly built garage, and because a the mudsills and top plates (Steps 1 - 9) for all of the walls before beginning the
properly built foundation depends on a cumber of factors (concrete mix, depth, actual construction. Follow these basic steps:
1. Cut 2x4 pressure - treated lumber to length for each mudsill. The mudsills 1.
setting time, etc.), we recommend you Fire a concrete contractor for this work. 2 x a CRIPPLE sruos
@ 16" O.C.
Check with your lumberyard for referralsor look in the yellow pages under for the two side walls extend the entire length of the foundation, the front 1 I m
R
"Contractors -Concrete ". and back walls will fit between them. If more than one board is used to
achieve the necessary length, the intersection must occur at the center of a HEADER
stud. (This also holds true for the top plate.) - -_ - -__ _
2. Position a mudsill on top of each line of anchor bolts so that the inside edge
112" DIA X 10" ANCHOR BOLTS of the mudsill is flush with the chalkline created in the Foundation and Floor 60 11
@ 4' "O" O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE WALLAT GARAGE
Section. 1/2" PLYWOOD SPACER
f 3. Mark each surface of the mudsill to identify top, inside, and outside.
4" CONC. SLAB W/6 X 6 10110 WWM 4. Tap the mudsill above each bolt with a hammer. This puts a dimple on the - _ 2 x a BLOCKING
1, _""�4 - --.--- - underneath side which marks drilling locations for each bolt.
5. Drill a 5/8 inch hole at each dimple. '
z 6. Reposition the mudsill to check hole placement. Do not bolt in place, FLASHING
° - _ however.
-
7. Cut the top plates to length (they will be the same length as the mudsills) ®'
and mark for top, side, etc.
MIL. POLY VAPOR BARRIER DOUBLE JACK STUDS
-- , _ 1 4" SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE 8. Beginning with the side walls, lay a mudsill and top plate next to each other UNDER HEADER
z z on the slab (it makes a great work surface!). Hook your tape measure onto ULL HEIGHT STUD
� the outside edge of the mudsill and plate, and measure in and mark 15 -1/4
in N inches (this is the distance to the closest edge of the first stud Mark an SECTIONAL ROLL -UP
SLOPE GRADE AWAY FROM 1/2" EXPANSION JOINT O w g ) GARAGE DOOR
FOUNDATION 6" IN FIRST 10' -O" (TYR) ¢ °o "x" on the side of the line where the stud will be placed. Tack a small nail at
a
C) this 15 -1/4 inch mark; then hook our tape measure onto it and mark off X 4 BLOCKING
" POURED CONCRETE WALL U -' Y P (FULL HEIGHT)
o 0 every 16 inches (be sure to place an "x" on the correct side of each mark).
5 REBARS VERT. A 4' -0" O.C. O
W/ #5 REBARS HORIZ. 3 This places your 16 inch marks to the side of each stud. Mark each
O Y
WALL AT GARAGE ---A
SLOPE GRADE AWAY FROM FOUNDA
6" IN FIRST 10' -0" (TYP.) - ,
Z \
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CO w
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C3 I-
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U) Ir 4" X 2"
QLL
CL v #5 DOWELS @ 4'4!1`4 w
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16" X 8" FTG. W/ (2) #5 CONT.
D) 112" DIA X 18" ANCHOR BOLT @
hinges, other hardware) 4' -0" O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE _- --- ----\
table, 20 foot minimum) �\
or lay out, 50 foot minimum) 8" CONCRETE BLOCK FILLED WITH MORTAR _,_� \
escent) 6 X 6 1 0/1 0 WWM - \ \ ____ E�
N \
6 o
6 MIL POLY VAPOR BARRIER -J/ .
SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE /,* 0
(4) # RE R /# IES 24" � _
S T E E 2" F M R RS
TE ECT S 12"
DETAIL D - MONOLITHIC SLAB WiTtf"Vdft '
24. Notch the outer edges of studs at an angle to accept the let -in braces
(diagonal wall braces) as required. (See Detail "F ".) Place the let -in brace
across the studs at the angle shown and mark where it crosses each stud.
Set your circular saw to cut slightly deeper than the brace, and run it across
each mark. At the mudsill, you may need to use a chisel to remove the
material. Lay the let -in brace into the notch, making sure the wall is still
square, and attach the brace with two 8d nails at each stud.
NOTE: There are several equally acceptable bracing alternatives which may be
used. Several styles of metal bracing (which require only one or two saw cuts
instead of a large notch) are readily available. Plywood sheathing or plywood
siding also works very well: if you are using lap siding with lit inch sheathing,
use a sheet of 112 inch plywood at each end of each wall. If you are using
plywood siding (such as 518 inch T1 -11) the siding itself is sufficient and other
bracing is not necessary (because of the grooves cut into it, .V8 inch T1 -11 is
not thick enough and additional bracing is required).
25. Once the corner bracing is installed, the temporary braces at each end can
be removed and used to align the walls: Using a ladder, sight from one
corner to the other along the top plate. Use the center brace to move the
wall in or out, adding additional temporary braces as necessary to
completely straighten the wall and hold it in place. (If the walls bow in or
out, the rafters won't fit properly.)
26. Unless you are using plywood siding that is it least 5/8 inches thick, apply
1/2 inch plywood sheathing to the front garage wall. This is important; the
large openings in the front wall make it impractical to install let -in bracing.
Plywood sheathing provides the necessary resistance to "racking ", keeping
the wall plumb. Use 8d nails spaced 8 inches on center into each stud, and
into the top plate and mudsill. Be certain the wall is perfectly plumb first;
once the plywood is nailed in place adjustments are not possible.
FRAMING THE LOFT FLOOR
Use extra care and caution when working on the second floor loft,
especially at the edges of the building. Consider installing temporary guard rails
or scaffolding around the second floor perimeter of the building to protect
against falling from the building during construction. Such items are usually
available from equipment rental companies.
The basic components which make up the floor system are: floor joists (the
horizontal framing members) and plywood decking (the actual surface of the
floor). At the outside walls, the joists are nailed to a rim joist; at the beam, solid
blocking is installed between the joists. Headers, (double members) are
installed around the opening for the ladder. Refer to the Loft Floor Framing
plans and Details "CC" and "DD ". \
PLYWOOD DECKIN(
FLOOR JOIST
SOLID BLOCKING -'
BEAM ��/
DOUBLE TOP PLATE
BEAM SUPPORT POST
WALL STUD- -
DETAIL CC - LOFT FLOOR CONSTRUCTION
A Floor Framing Plan is included with these plans showing where the
framing members are located. NOTE: The elevations show beam /wall framing
for the 3 -2x12; beam /wall framing for the L.V.L.'s will be similar.
The beams shown on the plans consist of either three 2x12's or two L.V.L.
members. Each beam member must span the full distance between supports.
Beam members may span more than one segment between supports, but any
joint must fall on a support post. Additionally, joints can not fall on adjacent
members, they should alternate between inside and outside members for three
piece beams or alternate between left and right members for two piece beams.
(See The Column and Footing Configuration Detail for beam sizes.)
Here's the procedure for installing the second floor loft: _
1. Glue and nail the beam members together using a row- Jfthree92d nails
every 18 inches. Do this from each side, staggering the rows so the nails
from one side fall in- between the rows on the opposite side.
2. If necessary, saw through and remove the double top plate where it
crosses the beam pocket.
3. Set the beam in place, making sure it is level and straight. Shims may be
necessary to make the beam fit snugly in the beam pockets in the walls, or
to make minor adjustments in height. The beams must be fastened to the
posts. At the rear wall, face nail through the full height studs on either side
mudsill- late air the same war Be sure you are consistent with our of the beam with four 12d nails from each side. At the front wall, the beam
P P Y Y Y 1 X 6 JAMB TRIM
W w fits snugly between the headers for the overhead doors: toenail through
CO x markings. To mark the stud locations for the side walls, start at the front of
o V each side of each header with five 12d nails. (See Detail "RR ".) For the
I- the building and work towards the back. To mark locations for the front and BRICK MOLD
ns x 1a OWELS @ a'-o" O.C. steel posts there are various acceptable methods, depending on the posts
back walls, work in the same direction for both. Later, when applying siding 20. To frame the front wall, follow the same basic procedure for the side walls
or roof sheathing, start from these same locations. This keeps the rafters (Steps 8 -13) and rear walls (Steps 15 -18), making the necessary supplied; talk with the post supplier for their nts, we e'lornmen If you find it
` and studs aligned and minimizes waste when installing siding and difficult to purchase the necessary components, we re(�ommend having a
9 9 9 adjustments to include the layout for the doors and the beam support post. local machine shop or welder fabricate the bearing plat for you, and pre-
p - sheathing. The bottom plates are three separate pieces, and there is only a full height
9. If you are installing the optional window and /or personnel door, include along one side the outside of each header. The beam fits tightly drill the necessary holes. A 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/2 inch steel bearing plate for
0 \ co Y 9 P P stud a o g o ( ) g Y the top of the post, with 6 inch x 6 inch x 1/4 inch uprights welded at either
them when laying out the mudsill and plate. Doors are relatively standard between the two headers at their inside ends. As with the rear wall, it will side, forming a "saddle" for the beam to rest in, works well and holds the
in size, but you will need to use the rough opening sizes supplied by the be much easier to handle and set the wall in place if the top plate is beam securely. (See Detail "KK ".) The bearing plate can either be welded
2 #5 REBARS CONT. particular manufacturer when cutting and assembling the window header installed as an uninterrupted member. Remember: when setting the to the top of the post, or have a short length of larger diameter pipe welded
1'-4" DETAIL B - CONCRETE STEM WALL and determining the position of the sill. To layout the window, first locate header in position and cutting the jack studs to length, calculate the height to the bottom which will fit outside the support post, hoping the unit in
the center of the opening. Measure 1/2 the suggested rough opening width for the header from the floor of the garage, not just the bottom of the place. If the saddle is wider than the beam, add shimsto create a tight fit.
to either side of this center mark. These two points establish the "inside" mudsill. When assembling the wall, nail the jack studs to the full- height Use 16d nails to fasten each beam to the saddle.
face of the jack studs. Measure an additional 1 -112 inches from each of studs (and the second jack stud to the first) with a pair of 12d nails every 16
FILL TOP 2 COURSES W /GROUT AT BOLTS these points to define the "inside" face of the full height stud which attaches inches. Nail the support post for the beam as in Step 16 (the header jack
/- to either side of the header. Double check: The distance between the full studs are considered additional post members in this situation).
/ 112" EXPANSION JOINT height studs should be the length of the header (which is the window rough 21. To install the header, nail through the full height stud with three 12d nails DETAIL KK - BOLLARD & BEAM POST BEARING PLATE &SADDLE
opening width plus 3 inches). Be sure and include the normal 16 inch on into the end of each 2x header board , and toenail through the face of each
ONC. SLAB W/6 X 6 1 0/1 0 WWM center layouts on mudsill and top plate; the cripple studs above the header jack stud into the bottom of the header with two 12d nails from either side.
r BEAM SUPPORT POST
-;! , � I al �C
t✓/ and below the sill follow this layout. Use a similar technique if you are I (See Detail "T1 ".) Once the beam is in place, toenail through the header
installing the optional personnel door, but don't bother to include the 16 inch into the beam using two 12d nails from each side of each header.
q on center layout marks on the mudsill. > I I BOLLARD POST
1/2" DIA. X 18" ANCHOR B LTS @ 4' DOUBLE TOP PLATE
10. After the stud locations are marked, spread the mudsill and plate apart,
O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE keeping the mudsill near its final location. Lay all of the studs in place
�oL� between them. Assemble the double 2x4 corner post by putting three
° 0 6 MIL VAPOR BARRIER blocks (1 at the top, 1 at the bottom, and 1 in the middle) between two 2x4 2 X 4 CRIPPLE STUDS @ 16" O.C.
-4" SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE studs. Nail this unit together with 16d nails. (See Detail "F ".) 2 - 2 X 6 HEADER
11. With two 12d nails at each location, nail through the face of the mudsill and
. -, #5 AT 4'0.C. FILL BLKS SOLID 1/2" PLYWOOD SPACER
_ - , top plate into the end of each stud.
, W /GONG. AT VERT. #5 i FLASHING
12. If you have opted for the window and /or personnel door, frame as shown _
on the plans and in Details "U1" and "V1". Be sure to install the headers so SHIM BETWEEN HEADER AND
_ 8" C -90 CONC. BLK. (# OF COURSES DOOR FRAME @ 16" O.C. OR AS REQ'D.
I I DETERMINED BY FROST LINE) . the bottom is 6 foot - 10 -3/4 inches above the floor, not the bottom of the
wall. Remember: the header length equals the rough opening width plus a PERSONNEL DOOR
i -i jack stud at either side (Rough opening + 3 inches). Install the cripple JACK STUD UNDER HEADER
° ° ( D TAIL C - CONCRETE BLOCK STEM WALL studs after the window sill is in place.
� FULL HEIGHT STUD
o °° a °I 13. For ease of installation (and to keep the wall from flexing as you stand it up) •I ..-
install the second top plate (to create a double top plate). Any joints in the 1/2" SHEATHING ----,
second top plate should be at least 32 inches away from joints in the top SHIM AS REQ'D. -_
plate. For the side walls, the second top plate stops 3-1/2 inches from 1 k 6 FRAME
each end of the wall, allowing the double top plate of the front and rear
walls to overlap, tying the walls together. Fasten the second top plate on BRICK MOLD AROUND OPENING -
- SLOPE GRADE AWAY FROM FOUNDATION with a pair of 12d nails every 32 inches. (See Detail "F ".)
@ 6" IN FIRSTI0' -0" (TYR) 2 X 4 SECOND TOP PLATE DETAIL U1 - PERSONAL DOOR 2 X 4 WINDOW SILL
�- (OVERLAP THE TOP PLATE OF THE OTHER WALL)
=A - F 2 X 4 TOP PLATE OR PLATE 2 X 4 CRIPPLE STUDS @ 16" O.C.
,
I
z q 41 J t y L�:,� C, � I
2 X 4 STUDS @ 16" O.C.
ao 1 X 4 LET -IN BRACING
/ -- (NAIL TO EACH STUD WITH 2 - 10D NAILS) �
`'r DETAIL V1 - WINDOW
z DETAIL F - WALL CONSTRUCTION 22. Repeat Steps 17 and 18 for the front wall. Because the headers make the
2 front wall quite heavy, you may wish to put them in place after the wall is
c NOTCH STUDS 3/4" DEEP
N FOR LET -IN BRACE -SIZE TO FIT SNUG standing. To make sure everything will fit just right, set all of the
components for the wall in place while it is laying on the ground. Nail the
studs to their bottom plates, creating left, right, and center wall units. Set
DOUBLE 2 X 4 STUD CORNER POST these in place on the foundation, bracing them securely so they will not fall
UNDISTURBED SOL OR 2 X 4 BLOCKING over. Set each header in place, then toenail the cripple studs (if required)
WELL COMPACTEE FILL above them. Once the headers and all of the studs are in position, nail the
2 X 4 MUDSILL (PRESSURE TREATED) top plates on.
23. After all wall frames are up, use a level and adjust the braces as necessary
/� 112" DIA. ANCHOR BOLTS to plumb each corner. Install temporary diagonal braces on the inside
// 1"�'u1 ✓J r .4.A WITHIN 19" OF THE C(_1R1\1FR „ . ,. .. •.__.., -_ _.._- -__.i_1._--
V /CONCRETE
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FOOTING
4. Using the same basic method as in Step 8 of Framing -he Walls, mark the
joist layout on top of the double plates and beam. The foist layout for the
left and right sides are offset so the joists can lap across the beam and lay
next to one another. At the right side, the first joist is set so it's center is
exactly 16 inches from the front of the garage; at the left side, the first joist
is set with it's center 14 -1/2 inches from the front. The remaining joists for
each side are set at 16 inch centers relative to the first one.
5. Include the ladder opening in the layout, using the dimensions on the plans.
Along the two sides of the ladder opening defined by wells, the rim joist and
end joist set flush with the outside face (in their normal manner); the double
header members set flush with the inside face of the wall (leaving a 1/2
inch gap between members).
6. Starting at one corner, install the rim joists (and end joists) on top of the
walls. Set the rim joist flush with the outside face of the wall and toenail it
to the double top plate with a 12d nail every 16 inches. Continue around
the building, butting the ends of the boards tightly together and fastening
the joint with one toenail from the top. Intersections between the rim joist
members should occur at the center of a joist.
7. If desired, a triple joist may be installed to accommodate a hoist, boat lift, or
other requirement. This triple joist can accommodate 1000 pounds, and
must be placed so it is directly over a beam support post. (Be sure and
. .... . .... I .. _., _ I__..1_ _..._.J_ -_J -(- ___
8. After the rim joists are installed, use a carpenters square or framing square
to transfer the joist layout to the inside face of the rim joist. Use these lines
as a guide for installing the joists so they are vertical. As you install each
joist, hold it up and site along it's length. Lumber is seldom perfectly
straight, you will probably notice a slight bow or "crown" in each board. Be
sure to set each board in place with it's "crown" up. Any sag it develops will
tend to make the board straighter, instead of creating a dip in the floor.
Fasten each joist by face nailing through the rim joist with three 12d nails
and toenailing it to the beam with two 12d toenails. NOTE: Make sure the
outside rim joist is straight before nailing the joists to the beam. The left
and right joists set next to one another on the beam; nail them together with
four 12d face nails.
9. At the stair opening, components must be installed in the following
sequence:
a. Install the floor joist which defines the width of the ladder opening,
locating it as shown on the plans to create the proper width rough
opening. Nail it to the rim joist and beam in the same manner as the
other joists.
b. Measure from the outside face of the side wall and mark locations for the
two members of the header which defines the length of the ladder
opening. Cut these members to fit exactly between the end joist and the
floor joist. Cut three pieces this length, the third will be used in Step E.
Install the first piece of this header (the piece which fits against the end
of the cantilevered joists), face nailing through the end joist and floor joist
with four 12d nails at each location.
c. Cut and install the cantilevered joists, fastening them to the rim joist in
s the other joist
the same manner a s toenailin them to the beam with
1 9
three 12d nails, and face nailing through the header board with three 12d
face nails into each joist.
d. Fasten the second member of the header in place (nailing as described
in Steps (b) and (c) above).
e. At the side wall, a third header member sets on the wall, flush with the
inside face, to support the bearing plate for the rafters. Face nail it in
place with four 12d nails through the end joist and through the floor joist,
and toenail it to the top plate of the wall with a 12d nail every 12 inches.
There is a 112 inch gap between this piece and the rim joist; using a
scrap of 1/2 inch plywood as a spacer will make installation easier.
f. Install the second floor joist, nailing it to the first joist (Step 9 -a) with a
row of three 12d nails every 18 inches and fastening it to the rim joist
and beam in the typical manner. Make sure the endsof the nails don't
protrude into the ladder opening. At the rear wall, a'Second end -joist
member sets flush with the inside face of the wall (and fits between the
members installed in Steps 9 -d and 9 -e). Toenail it to the top plate of
the wall with 12d nails every 12 inches, and toenail into the headers at
either end with three 12d nails. There will be a 1/2 inch gap between this
member and the end joist; use a 1/2 inch plywood spacer during
installation.
10. If you are building the optional dormer, install the additional joists required
under the front dormer wall at this time.
11. Once all of the joists are in place, install the solid blocking as shown on the
plans and Detail "CC ". The blocking should be directly over the beam and
fit tightly in place between joists. Use three 12d nails at every connection.
INSTALLING THE PLYWOOD DECKING
After the floor framing is in place, the 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood
floor decking can be installed.
NOTE: When setting the plywood in place, make certain the joists remain
16 inch on cent slightly ff-
straightand maintain their er layout. If the joists bow o
line, the next row of plywood may not fit correctly. Instead of ending at the
center of the joist the sheets may fall short, or extend past. Take extra care to
get the first sheets in exactly the right place, then hook your tape at the end of
each sheet, and make a mark every 16 inches. This should be the center of
your joists. When nailing the plywood in place, don't put nails along the edge
until the next row of plywood is installed, then add the missing nails. If you nail
the edge of the sheet down too tightly, you may have trouble getting the
tongues and grooves together when installing the next row.
1. To keep the decking straight and square, measure 48 inches from the
outside face of the right side wall along the end joists at the front and rear
of the building. Snap a chalkline across the top of the joists between these
two marks. Install the first row of decking using this chalkline as a guide,
starting at the front of the building and working towards the rear.
2. Continue installing rows of plywood, working towards the left side of the
building. Remember that each end of the plywood must fall at the center of
a joist, and that joints between sheets in adjacent rows should be staggered
so they don't fall on the same joist. Just before laying each sheet of
plywood in place, apply a bead of construction adhesive to those joists
under that sheet. Nail the plywood floor decking to each joist with ring
shank or screw shank 8d nails every 8 inches.
BUILDING THE LADDER
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: To protect against children or other
unauthorized persons from climbing onto the loft floor before the walls and
handrails are in place, consider using an extension ladder or other temporary
means of access to the loft which can be removed when you are not on -site and
working on the garage, install the permanent ladder once the walls are in place
and covered with paneling, drywall, or plywood.
The ladder for getting to the loft is built using a 2x6 pressure treated kick
plate, 2x10 ladder rails, 2x10 steps, step supports cut from a 2x8, 4x4 posts
and 2x4 safety rails. (See Detail "DD ".) Depending on foundation choices and
construction techniques, the distance between the floor of the garage and the
top of the loft floor may vary by several inches. The ladder plan shown may
need to be modified so the distance between each step is identical. The ladder
measurements shown on the plan only apply if the actual building is exactly the
size shown on the plans. Any difference between the building and plans will
require adjustments be made to the dimensions for the ladder. FIELD VERIFY
ALL MEASUREMENTS BEFORE CONSTRUCTING THE LADDER. Here's the
4 X 4 POST
PLYWOOD DECKING
FLOOR JOIST
SOLID BLOCKING
)ER
LS
IL
OFT
(PRESSURE TREATED)
1. Install the two upper 4x4 posts. To locate these posts, measure the width
of the opening (from the double joist to the inside face of the side wall
should be 3 feet, 4 3/4 inches), find it's center, and measure 15 inches to
either side of center. Using these marks, install the posts, making sure
there is 30 inches (the width of the ladder assembly) between them. Each
post bolts to the double joist header with two 1/2 inch x 8 inch carriage
bolts. Use a flat washer and lock washer with every nut.
2. Assemble the basic ladder frame. Cut the kick plate to 30 inches, then cut
the ladder rails as shown in the plans so they fit on top of the kick plate.
Face nail through the kick plate into each ladder rail with three 12d nails.
Stand the unit in place and fasten by nailing through each ladder rail into its
associated post with four 12d nails. Fasten the kick plate to the floor with
construction adhesive and at least three fasteners designed for concrete
(such as cut nails, concrete nails, or some method of powder actuated
fastener).
3. Work from the bottom up installing the steps. Once you have determined
the correct distance between each step for your garage, cut a step support
to size, and use it as a pattern for all the rest. Face nail through each step
support into the ladder rail with four 8d nails, then set the step on top of the
sunoort and use two 12d face nails throuah the step into the support an