HomeMy WebLinkAbout0266.95.8Df the lower and middle 44 posts to the ladder rails with two
1ch carriage bolts (using washers and lock washers as
)ve).
ofety rails to the posts with three 12d nails at each
Fhe safety rails run exactly parallel to the ladder rails; the top
upper rails should be 30 inches (measured vertically) above
of each step. Place the lower rail equidistant between the
I the ladder rail. The unprotected opening in the floor for the
)e very hazardous. USE EXTREME CAUTION until the 42
is built (see FRAMING THE LOFT WALLS).
HE LOFT WALLS
re are some differences (no anchor bolts, treated mudsills are
,m plates, different stud lengths, etc.), the same basic
rout, assembly sequence and nailing described in Framing The
he construction of the loft walls. As in the previous steps, any
ersect, overlap the double top plates to tie the walls together.
for the loft walls at the same point as fop the wall below. The
)stalled above the ladder opening to support the roof attaches
walls (the rear wall, the left side wall, and the safety wall at the
ction sequence is important.
1es on the decking to define the inside edge of each frame
ut top and bottom plates for the loft walls. It is important that
n center layout for the studs begin at the same place as the
lower walls. The front and rear walls are built first, the left
walls will fit between them.
Jction with the rear wall. After the stud locations are marked,
ates apart, keeping the bottom plate near its final location.
to length (if necessary) and lay them in place between the
a two 12d nails at each location, face nail through the plates
of each stud. The front and rear walls have double 2x4
at each end. Use the same construction technique as for the
,xcept as noted in the next sentence. The corner post at the
e rear wall is constructed somewhat differently because the
I supports the roof above the stairs is supported by members
post. Instead of building a normal corner post, install one full
ositioned so the last 3 inches -of the top and bottom plates are
e remaining members of this corner will be installed later, after
set in place.
)ond top plate (to create a double top plate), but stop it 3 -1/2
at each end of the wall, which leaves room for the double top
ide walls to overlap.
or two, "walk up" the wall frame and stand it in place. Align
e wall so it is flush with the end joist and wall below, making
; are positioned correctly. Fasten in place with a pair of 12d
3 inches through the bottom plate and plywood flooring into the
below. These nails can't hold the wall upright, so install
aces to keep the walls from falling over. Construct each brace
e end of a long 2x4 to the outside of each end stud Oust below
. Nail a short length of 2x4 to the deck (to the outside of
e walls will sit) and fasten the free end of the brace to it.
of the front wall is similar to the rear, except this wall includes
)r, so a few adjustments are necessary. (See Detail "RR ".)
ride garage: a) Let the bottom plate run continuous as if the
ere; b) Cut and assemble the header using the
the drawings; c) Attach a full height stud to each end to the
iit in place between plates and nail it in position, then; d)
1e wall. After the wall is standing, install the jack studs under
saw through and remove the bottom plate from the opening,
as at each side for the jack studs.
ersion, the header is placed on top of double top plates (to
Est possible headroom), so the header itself is not included in
Front Framing Elevation for the 22 foot Wide Garage for the
If framing members).
Ind brace the right side wall.
is standing, install the second top plate (to create a double
ing it overlap the front and back walls.
)f the left side loft wall is similar to the right, except it stops 3-
)rt of the opening for the stairs. Build, erect, and brace the
but don't install the second top plate yet.
of the left side wall also serves as the full height stud for the
e header above the stairs. Determine the length of the
asuring from the outside face of the rear wall bottom plate,
Iir opening to the end of the left side wall bottom plate. Cut
es this length and nail them together as with the other
A this header doesn't have the 112 inch plywood spacer
lieces; they are nailed directly together.
2x4 top plate exactly 3 -1/2 inches shorter than the header.
ate to the header so it is flush at both the front end and
,f the header (the top plate will stop 3 -1/2 inches short of the
header and protrude 112 inch along the inside face).
iepth of the header and top plate, and use this measurement
he correct length for the jack studs which support the header.
,tuds to this length (two for each end of the header). The jack
ront of the header are installed as part of the safety wall,
ext step.
iE SAFETY WALL
i safety wall separates the loft from the opening for the
ack studs at the end of this wall support the header above the
)etail "QQ ".) Use the same basic techniques described
ayout and build this wall. At the edge of the ladder opening,
I the outside face of the left side loft wall to the front face of
rail post and cut one bottom plate to this length. Cut two top
3 inches shorter.
tion for the two jack studs at one end of the bottom plate;
mal 16 inches on center spacing from the other end. Also
fiches on center layout on one of the top plates. Cut the
amber of studs to length (37 -1/2 inches) and nail them in
i the plates, then install the second top plate.
ick stud in place on it's layout mark on the bottom plate. It
against the end of the top plates. Face nail through the jack
iouble top plates of the safety wall with two 12d nails into
ail the second jack stud to the first with a pair of 12d nails
I up and slide it into place at the end of the left side wall, flush
)f the joist at the ladder opening along it's side and flush with
;e of the left side wall at it's end. Nail through the bottom
Double joist below with two 12d nails every 32 inches.
ugh the end stud into the two jack studs, starting near the
orking upwards, being sure to align the jack studs with the
�f the end stud.
all is connected to the rail post with two horizontal 2x4's; one
f the wall, the other at about 20 inches above the floor. Face
ach 2x4 block with two 12d nails into the end of the wall and
UPPER RAFT
WALL TII
1 X 10 LEDGER BOA
JACK STU
LOWER RAFT
BOTTOM PLA
42" SAFETY WA
left side loft wall
stud and full height studs of the loft wall, using three pairs of 12d nails
spaced evenly from top to bottom.
7. The safety wall must be covered in some fashion so there are no openings
larger than 4 inches. Building codes state that a 4 inch diameter sphere
must NOT be able to pass through the railing. To meet this criteria, you
may add additional studs (at 5 inch Centers) in the wall, nail -horizontal
members across the studs with less than 4 inches betw4aen pieces, or cover
the safety wall with drywall, paneling, or plywood.
NOTE: It is necessary to block access to the ladder opening in the area
between the loft wall and the lower roof rafters. Covering the loft wall so people
or objects cannot pass through it is one method, if the loft wall framing is left
open, then additional material will be required to construct a small wall which
meets the same criteria as the safety wall. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
INSURING YOUR BUILDING IS SAFE!
INSTALLING THE HEADER ABOVE THE
LADDER OPENING
1. At the rear wall, install one of the two remaining jack studs cut in Step 12 of
Framing the Loft Walls. Space was left for these two pieces when building
the rear wall; they also function as members of the corner post at the left
end of the rear wall. Nail the jack stud to the full height stud with a pair of
12d nails every 16 inches.
2. Set the header in place on top of the jack studs at either end. Where the
header butts into the end stud of the left side wall, face nail through the
stud with three 12d nails into each member of the header, and toenail
through the header into the jack studs with two 12d nails from each side.
At the rear wall, face nail through the full height stud with six 12d nails.
(See Details "QQ" and "PP ".)
3. Install the remaining jack stud under the header at the rear wall, nailing it to
the first jack stud with a pair of 12d nails every 16 inches. Toenail the
header to the jack studs with a pair of nails from each side.
4. Install the second top plate along the left side wall; one continuous piece
should tie the rear wall, header, and left side wall together.
5. Once all of the loft walls are up and before setting the rafters, plumb each
corner, straighten the walls and brace them into position.
NOTE: If you applied 112 inch plywood to the front garage walls (Step 26 of
Framing the Walls), apply plywood to the front loft wall also so there is a
smooth, continuous surface to apply siding over.
FRAMING THE ROOF
The roof system is made up of several components: rafters (they bear the
weight of the roof and transfer it to the walls), the ridge (it provides a-nailinq
surface for the rafters and helps tie them together), wall ties (they tie the walls
together and help keep the structure rigid) and sheathing (it ties all the rafters
together and provides a surface for nailing the shingles). This design features a
gambrel style roof with two distinct pitches so there are both upper and lower
rafters; the lower rafters fasten to a "ledger" board attached to the loft wall
(instead of a ridge) and rest on a 2x4 bearing plate nailed on top of the floor.
Additional components for this roof include a section of support ridge (designed
to support a pulley) at the front, and a "Cantilever" or "Visor" overhang at the
roof peak. (See Detail "RR ".)
The rafter assemblies in this plan are shown at 16 inches on center. The
upper rafters have a "seat cut" which rests on the loft wall and a "plumb cut"
which butts into the ridge. The lower rafters have a "bird's- mouth" notch which
fits over the bearing plate; a "plumb cut" which butts into the ledger, and a "tail
cut" so the trim boards will fit. (See the Rafter Templates on the drawings.)
There are several other terms you should know: "Pitch" refers to the angle
of the roof, "eave(s)" refers to that edge of the roof which is horizontal and
parallel to the ground, "rake(s)" refers to that edge which follows the. pitch of the
roof and rises along the gable wall. "Fascia ", is the trim board at the edges of
the roof, either covering the rafter tails at the eaves, or the end rafter at the
rakes, and "soffit" is the material that covers the exposed underside of the
rafters and roof sheathing along the eaves and rakes.
The size and spacing of the rafters takes into account the strength of the
lumber, the distance each rafter must span, and the anticipates weight the roof
will bear (called "load "). If you must change this to suit your local conditions,
refer to the "Rafter Load" Table. If you decide to build the rafters yourself, you
will want to supplement these instructions with a reference book on roof
construction.
CAUTION: Getting all the framing pieces of a roof into place can be
dangerous. It is also impossible for one person so plan to have several helpers
on hand for this task. Take precautions and use scaffolding to reach the
highest parts of the roof. While erecting the roof, use temporary bracing to hold
the ridge board in place and to keep the rafters from falling ova.
Follow this basic procedure:
Framing the Upper Roof
1. Lay out and mark the rafter locations on the double top.plates of the loft
walls. Since the rafters are spaced at 16 inches on center, and the layout
starts at the same end of the building as for the wall studs, the rafters
should fall directly above the studs. Mark the locations for the wall ties at
this time also.
UH I HIUUL LEAM
LEVER VISOR FRAMING
3 RAFTER
LE TOP PLATE
R RAFTER
STUD
STUDS Co) 16" D.C.
12 HEADER
8 HEADER
_D JAMB
& G PLYWOOD SUBFLOOR
4 POST BELOW BEAM
)IST (CONTINUOUS)
JACK STU[
CONTINUOUS RIM JOI!
4 X 4 POST 42" SAFETY WA
2. Layout and cut two upper rafters. Because of the support ridge, there are
two sizes of upper rafters, long (for the regular ridge) and short (for the
support ridge). Install the regular ridge and long rafters first, then repeat
the same steps to install the support ridge and short rafters. Where the
support ridge butts into the regular ridge board and rafter pair, face nail
through each rafter into the end of the support ridge with three 12d nails.
The support ridge extends 2 feet beyond the front wall to create a
cantilevered "visor" at the peak of the roof. .
NOTE: Because the support ridge is wider than the regular ridge, a slight bevel
is necessary to keep the top edges of the supporbridge from protruding above
the plane of the roof. For convenience, use two scraps to simulate the support
ridge, hold them in place at the end of the regular ridge, and determine how
much material to remove.
3. With several helpers, hold a left and right rafter pair in place with a scrap
piece of 2x between them to simulate the ridge. Check the fit and make
any minor adjustments.
4. When you're satisfied with the fit, write "template" on one rafter and use it
as a pattern for all the others. Check the crown of each rafter (See Step 8
of Framing the Loft Floor) and make sure the seat cut is on the "bottom"
side.
5. Nail the rafters in place with 12d nails, toenailing through the rafter into the
double top plate using two nails on one side, and one nail centered
between them on the other side. At the ridge, face nail through the ridge
into the rafter (use three 12d nails) or toenail through the rafter into the
ridge (use two 12d nails on either side of the rafter). Use several long 2x's
to temporarily brace the ridge to the floor while installing the rafters, and
install the rafters in pairs (one left and one right) instead of doing one side
then the other.
6. Cut the wall ties to the correct length and attach the spacer block at it's
center with six 12d face nails. If boards long enough to span from the left
to right walls are not available, use two shorter pieces, using the spacer
block to tie them together with six 12d nails into each wall tie member. Set
the wall ties in place, toenailing through them into the double top plate at
the front wall and the top of the beam with two 12d nails at each
connection. Since the wall ties are next to a rafter, fasten the two pieces
together with three 12d nails. Install the hangers for the wall ties, face
nailing through the ridge into the hanger with two 12d nails and through the
hanger into the rafter with three 12d nails. The hanger fastens to the
spacer block with four 12d face nails.
Framing the Lower Roof
NOTE: There is an extra consideration when installing the lower rafters:
Because the rafters bear on top of the floor system, the effective wall height is
close to nine feet. However, eight foot sheets of siding are used to keep waste
(and cost) to a minimum. The rafters are designed to take this into account and
be long enough so that the fascia board will meet the siding slightly below it's
top (which is at the joint between the two top plates). When testing the rafters
for fit, check this aspect also. It may be necessary to adjust the length of the
rafters slightly.
1. Once the upper roof components are in place, install the 1 x10 ledger board
for the lower rafters as shown. It fits below the top of the upper rafters, so
the plywood sheathing will cover it. Also install the 2x4 bearing plate along
the outside edge of the loft floor, nailing it with a 12d nail into the rim joist
every 16 inches, and into each joist it crosses.
2. Mark the layout for the lower rafters on the ledger and on the bearing plate.
As with the upper rafters, the 16 inches on center layout starts from the
same place as the wall studs, so the rafters should be directly in line with
the studs.
3. Cut and check the fit of one rafter for each side. Make any adjustments,
then mark these rafters as templates for their respective sides and use
them as patterns for laying out the rest of the lower rafters, making sure
they are crowned up.
4. Toenail through the rafter into the bearing plate with two 12d nails on one
side, and one 12d nail centered between them on the other side. At the
ledger, either face nail (at a slight angle) through the back of the ledger into
the rafter or toenail through the rafter into the ledger, using six 8d nails for
each connection.
GABLE WALLS
Gable studs don't have a top plate; they fasten directly to the rafters and
enclose the triangular areas formed by the regular walls and roof members.
They are installed after all of the rafters are in place.
1. Layout the gable studs using the same measurements as for the wall
below: the gable studs fall directly above the wall studs.
2. Stand a slightly longer than necessary 2x4 stud on it's layout mark and hold
it against the rafter, making sure it is plumb. Draw lines on the stud
indicating the top and bottom of the rafter, and lines on the rafter to mark
the position of the stud.
3. Cut the stud to length (it can't be any longer than the top of the rafter)
Once the stud is cut, stand it in position, make sure it is plumb, and nail it in
place with 12d nails (two toenails into the top plate and two nails into the
end rafter).
BUILDING THE OPTIONAL DORMER
If you are building the optional dormer, follow the basic directions for
building the loft walls for your chosen size, but use these directions in place of
those for the left side loft wall, and in addition to the directions for framing the
roof and gable end walls. (See Detail "PP ".)
1. Snap chalklines on the plywood to use as a guide when laying out and
setting the walls in place.
2. Layout and cut bottom and top plates for the dormer wall. The 16 inch on
center layout for this wall should be done so these studs fall directly over
the joists below. If installing the optional windows in the dormer wall,
include them when laying out the plates. This layout is important: as with
the left side joists the studs need to be shifted forward 1 -112 inches relative
to the other members. This allows the shortened versions of the lower
rafters to be placed on their correct layout and fall directly next to the
dormer studs. Study the drawings carefully. The first stud from the end of
the plate may fall at less than the normal spacing, which is perfectly
acceptable.
3. Cut the correct number of studs to length, lay them between the bottom
plate and top plate, and nail in place. If you are installing the optional
windows, the full height stud at the "outside" of each header is also part of
the three -stud corner post at each end of the dormer wall. To simplify
construction, attach both full height studs to the header, set this unit in
place between plates and nail it in position, then attach the remaining
pieces of the corner post to the full- height stud.
4. Stand the dormer wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and
decking with a two 12d nail into each joist. Temporarily brace the wall in
position so it does not fall over.
5. Layout and cut bottom plates for the front and rear dormer end walls.
These walls don't have a top plate because the studs are fastened to the
rafters (in the same manner as gable studs). Set the bottom plate in place
.-_.... ,-- ,.:. - -, -.I - .. -l:. - .. - - -_ ______ -__ _I___
vr.-. . - ■ . .al......\A WWII.. VV.Il1.16.I1 Vf- INVI\
6. Layout and cut the top and bottom plates for the front section of left side
loft wall. This wall has a three -stud corner post at each end; the front loft
wall and the front dormer end wall both butt into this wall.
7. Cut the correct number of studs to length and pre - assemble the corner
posts. Lay them between the bottom plate and top plate and nail in place.
8. Stand the wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and plywood with
a 12d nail into each joist. Brace the wall temporarily in place so it does not
fall over.
9. Layout and cut the top and bottom plates for the rear section of the left side
loft wall. This wall also needs a corner post at each end. The rear loft wall
and the rear dormer end wall both butt into this wall, but the full height and
jack studs associated with the header above the ladder opening serve this
purpose.
Some hints for building and erecting this wall: a) Let the bottom plate run
across the ladder opening as if the opening wasn't there; b) Attach both full
height studs to the header, set this unit in place between plates and nail it in
position; c) Erect and brace the wall, then saw through and remove the bottom
plate across the ladder opening; d) Install the jack studs under the header.
Framing the Dormer Roof
The roof for the optional dormer varies slightly from the basic roof. (See
Detail "RR ".) Dormer rafters replace some of the upper rafters. The dormer
rafters are long enough to span from the ridge to the dormer wall, have a bird's -
mouth cut which fits on the dormer wall, and have a tail cut which
accommodates the fascia and an overhanging soffit (both of which are
constructed of 1x6).
Framing the Upper Roof with Dormer Option
1 . Use the same techniques as for the upper rafters to layout, cut, and
check the dormer rafters. Install them as part of the upper rafter pairs.
2. Wall ties at the dormer are installed at 16 inches on center instead of
48 inches on center. Using a level to position each one, nail one end to the
loft wall rafter as described in Step 6 of Framing the Upper Roof, and nail the
other end to the dormer rafter, using five 12d face nails.
Installing the Dormer End Studs
After the dormer roof is framed, the dormer end studs can be installed.
Layout the plate so there is one stud against the corner post of the dormer wall,
one stud against the corner post of the loft wall, and one stud at 16 inches on
center from the outside face of the dormer wall. To determine the size and
position of each stud, use the same basic techniques as for gable end studs.
Cut each dormer end stud to the correct length, and bevel -cut the top to fit
under the double rafter. Nail into position with four 8d toenails at the bottom
plate and at the double rafter.
Framing the lower roof
1. Install the regular lower rafters as described in the section on Framing the
Roof, omitting those displaced by the dormer.
2. At each end of the dormer, a rafter fits alongside the dormer end studs.
Additional rafters which are not part of the 16 inches on center layout may
be necessary. After this rafter is in place, a short piece of "backer" should
be installed. The backer is a short piece of scrap 2x8 nailed along the
inside face of the rafter (between the dormer end studs) so that it protrudes
3 -1/2 inches above the top of the rafter and provides a nailing surface for
the lower edge of the siding on the dormer end wall.
3. Shortened versions of the lower rafters are installed along the dormer wall.
To align the top edge of the short rafters, snap a horizontal chalkline across
the face of the dormer wall between the points at either end where the top
of the extra rafter (installed in Step 2) intersects with the face of the wall.
4. Use the same process as for other rafters: cut one rafter (using the bird's -
mouth and tail cut portion of the lower roof template rafter) and check it's fit
at either end, make any adjustments and use as a pattern for the rest.
These rafters are installed on the regular layout marks for the lower rafters,
and should lay directly alongside the studs for the dormer wall. They need
only be long enough to fasten securely to the dormer studs (with four 12d
nails). At the rear of the dormer wall, there may be a conflict between the
last shortened tail and the double joist used along the ladder opening. If
this occurs, move the rafter tail forward to the next closest stud (the
spacing between rafter tails may be less than 16 inches on center, but that
is acceptable).
SOFFITS
An overhanging soffit along the eaves (the edge of the roof which is level
and parallel to the ground) is built into this design. The soffit is made of 1 x
material ripped to width and applied to the underside of the rafter tails; it is
installed after the siding and fascia board are in place. (If you have opted for
horizontal lap siding the soffit is installed after the wall sheathing is on, but
before the siding is applied.) Nail the soffit board in place with three 8d nails
into each rafter tail, and nail through the fascia board into the edge of the soffit
board with an 8d finish nail every 24 inches.
ROOF SHEATHING
NOTE: If you are using gable overhangs, install them now as shown. (See
Detail "X1 ".) Assemble each unit into a "ladder" before installation. Face nail
through each continuous 2x4 with two 12d nails into each end of the blocking
pieces. Fasten the unit to the end rafter with two 12d nails every 16 inches.
Once all of the rafters, wall ties, and gable studs are in place, the plywood
sheathing can be attached to the roof. Each roof pitch is sheathed
independently, so the same steps are repeated each time. Sheath the upper
roof first, then the lower roof.
NOTE: When setting the plywood in place, make certain the rafters remain
straight and maintain their 16 inches on center layout. If the rafters bow slightly
off -line, the next row of plywood may not fit correctly. Instead of ending at the
center of the rafter the sheets may fall short, or extend past. Take a little extra
care to get the first sheets in exactly the right place, then hook your tape at the
end of each sheet, and make a mark every 16 inches. This should be the
center of your rafter.
1. To help keep the sheathing straight and square, measure up 48 inches at
either end of the roof. Snap a chalkline to use as a guide for the top edge
of the first row of sheathing. Attach the 1/2 inch plywood sheathing with 8d
nails spaced 6 inches apart. Start at the eaves (the edge of the roof which
is level and parallel to the ground) and work up. Stagger joints in adjacent
rows so they don't fall on the same rafter (See Roof Sheathing Layout).
2. At both the eaves and gable rakes, the sheathing stops flush with the face
of the framing so the fascia will cover the exposed plywood edge.
3. To protect the sheathing from moisture, cover it with 15# roofing felt as
soon as you have finished nailing it in place. Start at the base of the roof
and work up, overlapping each row by 12 inches. Staple in place every 6
inches along each edge and down the middle of each row. Let the felt
hang over each edge of the roof by about 2 inches so it will cover the siding
and fascia boards which are installed later. If the sheathing does get wet,
lo+ it A- nil i+ fin-r--ink, t.ofl nil.0;n Ah +k- fol+
If you use lap siding, place it over 12 inch sheathing. The sheathing is
installed in the same manner as vertics siding, except it generally does not
have lap joints. During construction, we the sheathing instead of the plywood
siding so the sequence of constructionremains the same. The lap siding is
installed after the other trim boards, fri(ze boards, and any doors or windows
are installed.
When you install the lap siding, wTk from the bottom to the top using
GABLE STUD chalklines to keep each row straight. (heck your work with a level as you
progress and make sure the same am(unt of siding is exposed for each row. If
you have built the dormer, the flashingat the roof is installed on top of the
sheathing and under the siding. At theintersections of the wall and soffit, install
a 1 x2 frieze board after the sheathing i; on and before the siding is applied.
If you elect to use vinyl or metal horizontal siding, the installation process is
DOUBLE TOP PLATE similar to regular lap siding, and simila, quantities would be required. Corner
(2) 2 x 1 o HEADER trim and material for the fascia and sofit are readily available with the siding.
AT LADDER OPENING Follow the manufacturer's instructions or handling and installation.
You may wish to consider hiring aorofessional siding contractor to do the
installation for you. Whatever siding you choose, get professional - looking
LOWER RAFTER results by taking the time to install it straight and level.
FASCIA AND RAKE TRIM
GABLE STUD Install the rake boards along the g(ble rakes, holding it flush with the top of
the plywood roof sheathing. The sameplumb cut used on the rafters will be
required on the rake board for the uppT roof where the pieces meet at the ridge
on the rear wall and butt into the support ridge at the front wall. Along the lower
roof, let the lower end of the rake boar( "run wild ", extending several inches _
HAND RAIL beyond the end of the rafter tail. Trim his after the fascia along the eaves is
installed for a perfect fit. It is allowablefor the rake boards to dip slightly above
or below the surface of the roof (up to 14 inch) in order to keep it as straight as
BOTTOM PLATE possible. You may find it effective to n(il either end in place, then use a
stringline or a helper's eye to determinf any adjustments necessary to get the
INTERMEDIATE HAND RAIL board straight.
4 x 4 POST Install the fascia boards along the roves. Fit the fascia board against the
siding so the joint can be caulked; the lascia may not cover the end of the
plywood sheathing, but the metal drip dge installed with the shingles will cover
SIDING this gap Use a similar technique as akove for installing the fascia board as
The plywood siding is applied before the fascia boards are installed and the
shingles put on. If you wish to install the optional mitered corners at the
overhead door, frame them now. (See Detail "W1 ".) Install the 45 degree
framing piece by measuring 12 inches each way from the intersection of the
header and jack stud. Use two 12d nails at each end of the miter. Here's the
basic procedure for installing sheet siding:
straight as possible.
After all the fascia boards are inst2led, apply 1x4 trim over the siding at the
corners. .
THE CANTILEVER
After all the fascia and rake board; are in place, bevel cut both ends of the
two angled 2x4 pieces that form the ca)tilevered visor at the support ridge. The
lower end fits against the rake board a a point 24 inches (measured along the
DETAIL W1 - MITERED CORNER
HEADER
17 " LONG 2X4 @45°
FULL HEIGHT STUD
DOUBLE JACK STUDS UNDER HEADER
-112" SHEATHING
SECTIONAL ROLL -UP GARAGE DOOR
BRICK MOLD AROUND DOOR OPENING
- L ------
1 X 6 JAMB TRIM
711 1 1 -�-��� GARAGE DOOR STOP ADJUST TO FIT SNI
TO DOOR
Sheet siding generally has overlapping joints; always install the sheets so
that the next sheet you add laps on top of the previous sheet. When nailing
each sheet in place, don't nail the "underneath" edge of the lap joint until the
next sheet is installed, then nail through both sheets at once. If you are using
siding without overlapping joints, cover the joints with a 1 x2 "batten" to keep the
weather out. Start installation of the siding from the same point where you
began your framing layout. Put one sheet against the wall, flush with the end of
the building and extending about 1/2 inch below the mudsill. Adjust the location
if necessary so that it laps halfway onto the stud. Use a level to plumb the edge
of the sheet, and nail it in place using 8d galvanized siding nails spaced 8
inches apart. For those walls which require more than one row of siding, you
will need to install metal "Z" flashing before putting the second row of siding on.
(See Detail "R ".)
DETAIL R - PLYWOOD SIDING
I GABLE WALL STUD
VG
4L "Z" FLASHING
WALL TOP PLATE
STUD
At the gable ends, pay close attention and plan ahead; because of the
angled cuts at the roof edge and orientation of the sheets required for the
overlapping joints, you will find that the "waste" pieces will only fit at the opp
end of the building. Careful planning will eliminate what could potentially be
considerable waste and the expense of buying additional sheets of siding.
At the front gable, there is a large opening for the cargo door. If the joil
between sheets of siding falls exactly at the center of this opening (where th
joint between door panels is), you will be able to use these pieces for the pa
of the door itself. If the joint between sheets does not fall at the center of the
opening, it will be necessary to use additional sheets of siding for the door
panels. Refer to the section on Building the Cargo Door.
If you have built the optional dormer, there are special considerations when
installing siding on the dormer walls. At the intersection of the dormer wall and
the short lower rafters, flashing is installed which fits under the siding (extending
at least 4 inches up the wall) and on top of the shingles (extending 6 inches
down the roof). The siding should stop short of this intersection, leaving at least
2 inches of flashing exposed; be sure and get a coat of paint on the bottom
edge of the siding to prevent water from absorbing into the end. When you
install the siding at the dormer wall, don't nail the bottom 18 inches of each
sheet: leave it loose so the flashing may be slipped into place. Finish nailing the
siding in place after the shingles and flashing are installed.
Flashing is also used where the lower roof meets the dormer end wall.
(You will need to install backers as described in Step 2 of Framing The Lower
Roof in the section on Framing The Optional Dormer.) Individual pieces of
metal stepped flashing (sometimes called flashing shingles) are installed, one
piece for each row of shingles. When installing the roofing felt, it should extend
up the wall at least 6 inches. Each piece of flashing should be bent so it
extends 4 inches up the dormer end wall and 4 inches across the shingles. As
each row of shingles is being installed, slip a piece flashing up and under the
siding, positioning and nailing it in place with one nail at the uppermost corner of
it's vertical leg. The siding covers the top of the flashing, but hold the lower
edge of the siding back from the roofing so 1 inch of flashing is exposed and the
end of the siding can be painted. Leave the lower 18 inches of siding loose so
flashing can be slipped up underneath it during the shingling process. Once all
of the flashing and shingles have been installed, finish nailing the siding in
place.
CAUTION: Wear gloves and be extremely careful when handling or working
around the flashing: it's edges are very sharp and can inflict severe cuts.
top of the rake board) from the center of the ridge and the upper end extends
past the end of the support ridge so the two angled pieces meet one another in
line with the centerline of the ridge. Use three 12d face nails through each
angled piece into the end rafter, and through the angled 2x4 into the support
ridge. Use three 12d nails from each side to fasten the angled pieces together
where they meet. (See Detail "RR ".)
Additional small triangular pieces (f roof sheathing will need to be installed
at this cantilever. As with the rest of tha roof, the plywood should stop even
with the face of the framing. At the wal, you will need to install a 2x2 nailer on
top of the fascia board to support the dge of the sheathing.
After the cantilever is framed and sheathed, install the two fascia boards
over the 2x4's. At the cantilever, the Enderside of the roof sheathing and
framing members are exposed to the veather; be sure to protect them with
paint or wood preservative (or both).
If optional gable overhangs have been installed, there are several changes
in how the cantilever is framed. (a) The cantilever must be framed before the
rake boards are attached so the lowerend of the angled 2x4 fits against the
overhang "ladder" instead of against the rake board. (b) After the rake boards
are installed, plywood soffit is installedon the underside of the gable overhangs
and on the underside of the angled 2x4's which frame the cantilever. The soffit
plywood butts into the support ridge; atach 2x2 nailers along the support ridge
to nail the end of the plywood to.
The support ridge is designed so z pulley or other device can be attached
for hoisting loads in and out of vehicles. Any load placed on the support ridge
must be applied from the top; i.e. a pulley should be supported by hangers or
straps which fit over the top of the ridge, not by bolts or nails which penetrate
through the ridge. Used properly, this ridge can safely support a load of 750
lbs. Whichever method or device you clay elect to use, you should consult with
the manufacturer to determine the besi and safest method of installation.
ROOF SHINGLES
After roof sheathing and fascia boards are in place, the shingles may be
installed. Shingle manufacturers generally provide excellent instructions for
installation; reading these car@fUil and following them closely will result in a roof
that looks great and lasts for many years. Shingle the lower roof first, then the
upper roof.
1. Along the eaves, slip the metal drip edge under the roofing felt and tack in
place with roofing nails spaced 12 inches apart.
2. Along the rakes, the rake edge lays on top of the roofing felt. (See Detail
"Y1 ".) Tack in place with roofing nails spaced 12 inches apart.
3. Install the shingles according to the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure
the shingles extend 1/2 inch beyord the drip edge along the eaves and the
rake edge along the rakes.
4. After the lower roof is shingled, a piece of drip edge must be installed at the
intersection of the two roof pitches. It should lay under the roofing felt for
the upper roof, but on top of the shingles on the lower roof. Once this is
installed, repeat Steps 2 and 3 forthe upper roof.
SOFFITS (for optional gable overhangs)
If you have included the optional gable overhangs, enclose them with
plywood soffit material applied to the u)derside of the "ladder" which creates the
overhang. Rip the soffit plywood to size and nail it in place. Use 4d galvanized
box nails, 6 inches on center into the 2x4 framing members (See Detail "X1 ".)
After the soffit is installed, a 1 x2 friezeboard is applied to cover the intersection lI
between the soffit and the wall (if optional lap siding is installed, this board is
installed on top of the sheathing beforethe siding is applied).
"N ROOFING - -' -
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4. Attach the 1 x4 trim t the do�rp;anb 4 0) q
a. At the hinge side of ch door panel the door frame, siding an
should all be aligned flush along this edge.
b. At the bottom of the lower pa an e op of the upper panel, attach
the trim so it extends about 1/2 inch past the plywood. This will cover
the gap between the door and the wall, and lap onto the wall by about
1/4 inch.
c. At the joint between the two doors, the trim on the left hand door extends
about 1/2 inch past the plywood to cover the gap between doors and lap
over the right hand door by 1/4 inch. The corresponding piece of trim on
the right hand door must be held back from the edge of the plywood far
enough to create the "lip" for the left hand trim to close against; allow an
additional 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch so the two pieces of trim do not interfere
with one another.
d. At the joint between the upper and lower panels, the trim board on the
top panel will lap over onto the plywood of the bottom segment, and the
trim for the bottom segment will be held down below this lip. Installing
the trim in this overlapping manner accomplishes two things: it creates a
stop which keeps the door from swinging into the opening and helps
provide a good seal against the weather. It also looks more appealing if
the gaps are covered.
5. Attach the vertical piece of 1 x4 trim to the garage wall along the hinge sides
of the opening. The 2x4 jack stud, plywood siding, and 1 x4 trim should all
be aligned and flush along this edge. Use a pair of 8d galvanized siding or
casing nails every 8 inches.
6. Attach the two hinges to each door panel, using screws for the hinges
which penetrate at least 1 -1/4 inches into the 2x4 framing.
7. Set the lower door panels in the opening, using shims and wedges as
required to align them correctly and hold them in proper alignment. Once in
position, attach the hinges to the 1 x4 trim at the garage wall, making sure
the screws penetrate at least 1 -1/4 inches into the 2x4 wall stud.
8. Set the upper door panels is place and attach their hinges in the same
manner.
9. With the doors hung and closed, install the remaining 1 x4 trim around the
opening, leaving 1/8 inch - 1/4 inch clearance so this trim will not interfere
with the operation of the doors.
10. With the doors in their closed position, install slide bolts, hooks and eyes, or
similar hardware to keep the door segments together and hold the doors
shut.
An important consideration: Since these doors swing outward, they could be
blown about by the wind if they are not fastened in position when opened.
This could be both dangerous and damaging. There are several styles of
gate latches available which can be used to address this problem. Install
the latch on the outside of the door and the catch on the wall of the garage;
when the door is opened, it will catch and be held in place; when it is time
to close the doors, a small rope rigged through hook eyes can be used to
trip the latch and pull the door shut. Regardless of the specific manner and
method, this situation must be addressed. Install a padlock able hasp or
slide bolt to keep the bottom segments of this door closed so they function
as a safety rail across the opening. With the door in it's fully opened
position there is nothing to prevent people or objects from inadvertently
falling from the loft to the ground below. The bottom portion of these doors
should only be opened when necessary, never just for ventilation.
DOORS and WINDOWS
Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the overhead
garage door. You may need to add additional boards to which you can fasten
door components.
Should you decide to install the optional personnel door and /or window,
they are typically installed after the siding is in place. The brick mold trim
around the opening is then installed over the siding. If lap siding is used, install
the doors and windows after the sheathing is installed but before the siding is
applied. The siding then butts into the brick mold trim.
FINISHING WORK
After doors and windows are installed, be sure to caulk the joints between
siding and trim, and any other exposed joints in the garage. Seal the floor as
per the concrete contractor's instructions. Paint, seal or stain the exterior.
Install gutter and downspouts (these materials are not included in the material
list), if necessary. Remember to pitch the gutter slightly towards the downspout
escape. Have a licensed electrician run power to the garage and install interior
and exterior lights and outlets. Landscape with flowers, shrubs, and walkways
to really enhance the appearance of your garage.
UC IAIL Al - UADLC VVCr1r1A14kX
BUILDING THE CARGO DOOR
The cargo door consists of three basic components: 2x4 framework,
plywood siding, and 1 x4 trim. The plar contains dimensioned drawings for the
doors, but it is essential to field verify the measurements and make any
necessary adjustments.
Important Safety Note: These doors ale large, heavy, and will be installed high
in the air at the edge of the building. S)me means of scaffolding will be
necessary so that these doors can be nanipulated and installed. Take extra
care; once the doors are hung and freeto swing, they could knock people or
material off of the scaffolding.
1. Construct the four 2x4 frames as mown, toenailing the pieces together with
12d nails. If necessary, adjust themeasurements so that when all of the
frames are set in place there is 112 inch clearance at the top and bottom of
the rough opening, 1/4 inch at thehinge side, and 1 inch between frames.
If there is no sufficient t su Iclent clearance wound the frames, they may bind against
the rough opening or strike one another when opened.
2. Check the measurements su ements bef r
o e setting the plywood; when the plywood is
set in the opening, there should be1 /4 inch clearance at the top, bottom,
and hinge side, and 1/8 inch to 1 /4inch clearance at the center between
the left and right door halves. Cut one large piece of plywood for each side
and attach both the upper and lower frames to it (leaving 1 inch between
the frames). When attaching the pywood it should be flush with the 2x4
frame at the hinge side, extend ab(,ut 1/4 inch beyond the frame at the top
and bottom, and extend about 112 hph beyond the frame at the center.
Make sure the grooves in the carg( door align with the grooves in the
siding. Being careful to maintain tha correct overlap, nail the plywood
siding to the 2x4 frames with 6d gavanized siding nails at 6 inch on center.
Snnn n chalkline to mark whoro to n it tho rinnr nonni in hnif
DETAIL Y1 - TYPICAL GABLE END
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DORMER RAFTI
NOTCHED GABLE STUD
DOUBE TOP PLATE
(2) 2 X 6 HEADE
(2) 2 X 10 HEADER
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GABLE STUD
DORMER STl
HAND RAIL
SHORTENE
LOWER RAFTE
INTERMEDIATE HAND RA
JACK STU[
CONTINUOUS RIM JOI!
4 X 4 POST 42" SAFETY WA
2. Layout and cut two upper rafters. Because of the support ridge, there are
two sizes of upper rafters, long (for the regular ridge) and short (for the
support ridge). Install the regular ridge and long rafters first, then repeat
the same steps to install the support ridge and short rafters. Where the
support ridge butts into the regular ridge board and rafter pair, face nail
through each rafter into the end of the support ridge with three 12d nails.
The support ridge extends 2 feet beyond the front wall to create a
cantilevered "visor" at the peak of the roof. .
NOTE: Because the support ridge is wider than the regular ridge, a slight bevel
is necessary to keep the top edges of the supporbridge from protruding above
the plane of the roof. For convenience, use two scraps to simulate the support
ridge, hold them in place at the end of the regular ridge, and determine how
much material to remove.
3. With several helpers, hold a left and right rafter pair in place with a scrap
piece of 2x between them to simulate the ridge. Check the fit and make
any minor adjustments.
4. When you're satisfied with the fit, write "template" on one rafter and use it
as a pattern for all the others. Check the crown of each rafter (See Step 8
of Framing the Loft Floor) and make sure the seat cut is on the "bottom"
side.
5. Nail the rafters in place with 12d nails, toenailing through the rafter into the
double top plate using two nails on one side, and one nail centered
between them on the other side. At the ridge, face nail through the ridge
into the rafter (use three 12d nails) or toenail through the rafter into the
ridge (use two 12d nails on either side of the rafter). Use several long 2x's
to temporarily brace the ridge to the floor while installing the rafters, and
install the rafters in pairs (one left and one right) instead of doing one side
then the other.
6. Cut the wall ties to the correct length and attach the spacer block at it's
center with six 12d face nails. If boards long enough to span from the left
to right walls are not available, use two shorter pieces, using the spacer
block to tie them together with six 12d nails into each wall tie member. Set
the wall ties in place, toenailing through them into the double top plate at
the front wall and the top of the beam with two 12d nails at each
connection. Since the wall ties are next to a rafter, fasten the two pieces
together with three 12d nails. Install the hangers for the wall ties, face
nailing through the ridge into the hanger with two 12d nails and through the
hanger into the rafter with three 12d nails. The hanger fastens to the
spacer block with four 12d face nails.
Framing the Lower Roof
NOTE: There is an extra consideration when installing the lower rafters:
Because the rafters bear on top of the floor system, the effective wall height is
close to nine feet. However, eight foot sheets of siding are used to keep waste
(and cost) to a minimum. The rafters are designed to take this into account and
be long enough so that the fascia board will meet the siding slightly below it's
top (which is at the joint between the two top plates). When testing the rafters
for fit, check this aspect also. It may be necessary to adjust the length of the
rafters slightly.
1. Once the upper roof components are in place, install the 1 x10 ledger board
for the lower rafters as shown. It fits below the top of the upper rafters, so
the plywood sheathing will cover it. Also install the 2x4 bearing plate along
the outside edge of the loft floor, nailing it with a 12d nail into the rim joist
every 16 inches, and into each joist it crosses.
2. Mark the layout for the lower rafters on the ledger and on the bearing plate.
As with the upper rafters, the 16 inches on center layout starts from the
same place as the wall studs, so the rafters should be directly in line with
the studs.
3. Cut and check the fit of one rafter for each side. Make any adjustments,
then mark these rafters as templates for their respective sides and use
them as patterns for laying out the rest of the lower rafters, making sure
they are crowned up.
4. Toenail through the rafter into the bearing plate with two 12d nails on one
side, and one 12d nail centered between them on the other side. At the
ledger, either face nail (at a slight angle) through the back of the ledger into
the rafter or toenail through the rafter into the ledger, using six 8d nails for
each connection.
GABLE WALLS
Gable studs don't have a top plate; they fasten directly to the rafters and
enclose the triangular areas formed by the regular walls and roof members.
They are installed after all of the rafters are in place.
1. Layout the gable studs using the same measurements as for the wall
below: the gable studs fall directly above the wall studs.
2. Stand a slightly longer than necessary 2x4 stud on it's layout mark and hold
it against the rafter, making sure it is plumb. Draw lines on the stud
indicating the top and bottom of the rafter, and lines on the rafter to mark
the position of the stud.
3. Cut the stud to length (it can't be any longer than the top of the rafter)
Once the stud is cut, stand it in position, make sure it is plumb, and nail it in
place with 12d nails (two toenails into the top plate and two nails into the
end rafter).
BUILDING THE OPTIONAL DORMER
If you are building the optional dormer, follow the basic directions for
building the loft walls for your chosen size, but use these directions in place of
those for the left side loft wall, and in addition to the directions for framing the
roof and gable end walls. (See Detail "PP ".)
1. Snap chalklines on the plywood to use as a guide when laying out and
setting the walls in place.
2. Layout and cut bottom and top plates for the dormer wall. The 16 inch on
center layout for this wall should be done so these studs fall directly over
the joists below. If installing the optional windows in the dormer wall,
include them when laying out the plates. This layout is important: as with
the left side joists the studs need to be shifted forward 1 -112 inches relative
to the other members. This allows the shortened versions of the lower
rafters to be placed on their correct layout and fall directly next to the
dormer studs. Study the drawings carefully. The first stud from the end of
the plate may fall at less than the normal spacing, which is perfectly
acceptable.
3. Cut the correct number of studs to length, lay them between the bottom
plate and top plate, and nail in place. If you are installing the optional
windows, the full height stud at the "outside" of each header is also part of
the three -stud corner post at each end of the dormer wall. To simplify
construction, attach both full height studs to the header, set this unit in
place between plates and nail it in position, then attach the remaining
pieces of the corner post to the full- height stud.
4. Stand the dormer wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and
decking with a two 12d nail into each joist. Temporarily brace the wall in
position so it does not fall over.
5. Layout and cut bottom plates for the front and rear dormer end walls.
These walls don't have a top plate because the studs are fastened to the
rafters (in the same manner as gable studs). Set the bottom plate in place
.-_.... ,-- ,.:. - -, -.I - .. -l:. - .. - - -_ ______ -__ _I___
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6. Layout and cut the top and bottom plates for the front section of left side
loft wall. This wall has a three -stud corner post at each end; the front loft
wall and the front dormer end wall both butt into this wall.
7. Cut the correct number of studs to length and pre - assemble the corner
posts. Lay them between the bottom plate and top plate and nail in place.
8. Stand the wall in place, and nail through the bottom plate and plywood with
a 12d nail into each joist. Brace the wall temporarily in place so it does not
fall over.
9. Layout and cut the top and bottom plates for the rear section of the left side
loft wall. This wall also needs a corner post at each end. The rear loft wall
and the rear dormer end wall both butt into this wall, but the full height and
jack studs associated with the header above the ladder opening serve this
purpose.
Some hints for building and erecting this wall: a) Let the bottom plate run
across the ladder opening as if the opening wasn't there; b) Attach both full
height studs to the header, set this unit in place between plates and nail it in
position; c) Erect and brace the wall, then saw through and remove the bottom
plate across the ladder opening; d) Install the jack studs under the header.
Framing the Dormer Roof
The roof for the optional dormer varies slightly from the basic roof. (See
Detail "RR ".) Dormer rafters replace some of the upper rafters. The dormer
rafters are long enough to span from the ridge to the dormer wall, have a bird's -
mouth cut which fits on the dormer wall, and have a tail cut which
accommodates the fascia and an overhanging soffit (both of which are
constructed of 1x6).
Framing the Upper Roof with Dormer Option
1 . Use the same techniques as for the upper rafters to layout, cut, and
check the dormer rafters. Install them as part of the upper rafter pairs.
2. Wall ties at the dormer are installed at 16 inches on center instead of
48 inches on center. Using a level to position each one, nail one end to the
loft wall rafter as described in Step 6 of Framing the Upper Roof, and nail the
other end to the dormer rafter, using five 12d face nails.
Installing the Dormer End Studs
After the dormer roof is framed, the dormer end studs can be installed.
Layout the plate so there is one stud against the corner post of the dormer wall,
one stud against the corner post of the loft wall, and one stud at 16 inches on
center from the outside face of the dormer wall. To determine the size and
position of each stud, use the same basic techniques as for gable end studs.
Cut each dormer end stud to the correct length, and bevel -cut the top to fit
under the double rafter. Nail into position with four 8d toenails at the bottom
plate and at the double rafter.
Framing the lower roof
1. Install the regular lower rafters as described in the section on Framing the
Roof, omitting those displaced by the dormer.
2. At each end of the dormer, a rafter fits alongside the dormer end studs.
Additional rafters which are not part of the 16 inches on center layout may
be necessary. After this rafter is in place, a short piece of "backer" should
be installed. The backer is a short piece of scrap 2x8 nailed along the
inside face of the rafter (between the dormer end studs) so that it protrudes
3 -1/2 inches above the top of the rafter and provides a nailing surface for
the lower edge of the siding on the dormer end wall.
3. Shortened versions of the lower rafters are installed along the dormer wall.
To align the top edge of the short rafters, snap a horizontal chalkline across
the face of the dormer wall between the points at either end where the top
of the extra rafter (installed in Step 2) intersects with the face of the wall.
4. Use the same process as for other rafters: cut one rafter (using the bird's -
mouth and tail cut portion of the lower roof template rafter) and check it's fit
at either end, make any adjustments and use as a pattern for the rest.
These rafters are installed on the regular layout marks for the lower rafters,
and should lay directly alongside the studs for the dormer wall. They need
only be long enough to fasten securely to the dormer studs (with four 12d
nails). At the rear of the dormer wall, there may be a conflict between the
last shortened tail and the double joist used along the ladder opening. If
this occurs, move the rafter tail forward to the next closest stud (the
spacing between rafter tails may be less than 16 inches on center, but that
is acceptable).
SOFFITS
An overhanging soffit along the eaves (the edge of the roof which is level
and parallel to the ground) is built into this design. The soffit is made of 1 x
material ripped to width and applied to the underside of the rafter tails; it is
installed after the siding and fascia board are in place. (If you have opted for
horizontal lap siding the soffit is installed after the wall sheathing is on, but
before the siding is applied.) Nail the soffit board in place with three 8d nails
into each rafter tail, and nail through the fascia board into the edge of the soffit
board with an 8d finish nail every 24 inches.
ROOF SHEATHING
NOTE: If you are using gable overhangs, install them now as shown. (See
Detail "X1 ".) Assemble each unit into a "ladder" before installation. Face nail
through each continuous 2x4 with two 12d nails into each end of the blocking
pieces. Fasten the unit to the end rafter with two 12d nails every 16 inches.
Once all of the rafters, wall ties, and gable studs are in place, the plywood
sheathing can be attached to the roof. Each roof pitch is sheathed
independently, so the same steps are repeated each time. Sheath the upper
roof first, then the lower roof.
NOTE: When setting the plywood in place, make certain the rafters remain
straight and maintain their 16 inches on center layout. If the rafters bow slightly
off -line, the next row of plywood may not fit correctly. Instead of ending at the
center of the rafter the sheets may fall short, or extend past. Take a little extra
care to get the first sheets in exactly the right place, then hook your tape at the
end of each sheet, and make a mark every 16 inches. This should be the
center of your rafter.
1. To help keep the sheathing straight and square, measure up 48 inches at
either end of the roof. Snap a chalkline to use as a guide for the top edge
of the first row of sheathing. Attach the 1/2 inch plywood sheathing with 8d
nails spaced 6 inches apart. Start at the eaves (the edge of the roof which
is level and parallel to the ground) and work up. Stagger joints in adjacent
rows so they don't fall on the same rafter (See Roof Sheathing Layout).
2. At both the eaves and gable rakes, the sheathing stops flush with the face
of the framing so the fascia will cover the exposed plywood edge.
3. To protect the sheathing from moisture, cover it with 15# roofing felt as
soon as you have finished nailing it in place. Start at the base of the roof
and work up, overlapping each row by 12 inches. Staple in place every 6
inches along each edge and down the middle of each row. Let the felt
hang over each edge of the roof by about 2 inches so it will cover the siding
and fascia boards which are installed later. If the sheathing does get wet,
lo+ it A- nil i+ fin-r--ink, t.ofl nil.0;n Ah +k- fol+
If you use lap siding, place it over 12 inch sheathing. The sheathing is
installed in the same manner as vertics siding, except it generally does not
have lap joints. During construction, we the sheathing instead of the plywood
siding so the sequence of constructionremains the same. The lap siding is
installed after the other trim boards, fri(ze boards, and any doors or windows
are installed.
When you install the lap siding, wTk from the bottom to the top using
GABLE STUD chalklines to keep each row straight. (heck your work with a level as you
progress and make sure the same am(unt of siding is exposed for each row. If
you have built the dormer, the flashingat the roof is installed on top of the
sheathing and under the siding. At theintersections of the wall and soffit, install
a 1 x2 frieze board after the sheathing i; on and before the siding is applied.
If you elect to use vinyl or metal horizontal siding, the installation process is
DOUBLE TOP PLATE similar to regular lap siding, and simila, quantities would be required. Corner
(2) 2 x 1 o HEADER trim and material for the fascia and sofit are readily available with the siding.
AT LADDER OPENING Follow the manufacturer's instructions or handling and installation.
You may wish to consider hiring aorofessional siding contractor to do the
installation for you. Whatever siding you choose, get professional - looking
LOWER RAFTER results by taking the time to install it straight and level.
FASCIA AND RAKE TRIM
GABLE STUD Install the rake boards along the g(ble rakes, holding it flush with the top of
the plywood roof sheathing. The sameplumb cut used on the rafters will be
required on the rake board for the uppT roof where the pieces meet at the ridge
on the rear wall and butt into the support ridge at the front wall. Along the lower
roof, let the lower end of the rake boar( "run wild ", extending several inches _
HAND RAIL beyond the end of the rafter tail. Trim his after the fascia along the eaves is
installed for a perfect fit. It is allowablefor the rake boards to dip slightly above
or below the surface of the roof (up to 14 inch) in order to keep it as straight as
BOTTOM PLATE possible. You may find it effective to n(il either end in place, then use a
stringline or a helper's eye to determinf any adjustments necessary to get the
INTERMEDIATE HAND RAIL board straight.
4 x 4 POST Install the fascia boards along the roves. Fit the fascia board against the
siding so the joint can be caulked; the lascia may not cover the end of the
plywood sheathing, but the metal drip dge installed with the shingles will cover
SIDING this gap Use a similar technique as akove for installing the fascia board as
The plywood siding is applied before the fascia boards are installed and the
shingles put on. If you wish to install the optional mitered corners at the
overhead door, frame them now. (See Detail "W1 ".) Install the 45 degree
framing piece by measuring 12 inches each way from the intersection of the
header and jack stud. Use two 12d nails at each end of the miter. Here's the
basic procedure for installing sheet siding:
straight as possible.
After all the fascia boards are inst2led, apply 1x4 trim over the siding at the
corners. .
THE CANTILEVER
After all the fascia and rake board; are in place, bevel cut both ends of the
two angled 2x4 pieces that form the ca)tilevered visor at the support ridge. The
lower end fits against the rake board a a point 24 inches (measured along the
DETAIL W1 - MITERED CORNER
HEADER
17 " LONG 2X4 @45°
FULL HEIGHT STUD
DOUBLE JACK STUDS UNDER HEADER
-112" SHEATHING
SECTIONAL ROLL -UP GARAGE DOOR
BRICK MOLD AROUND DOOR OPENING
- L ------
1 X 6 JAMB TRIM
711 1 1 -�-��� GARAGE DOOR STOP ADJUST TO FIT SNI
TO DOOR
Sheet siding generally has overlapping joints; always install the sheets so
that the next sheet you add laps on top of the previous sheet. When nailing
each sheet in place, don't nail the "underneath" edge of the lap joint until the
next sheet is installed, then nail through both sheets at once. If you are using
siding without overlapping joints, cover the joints with a 1 x2 "batten" to keep the
weather out. Start installation of the siding from the same point where you
began your framing layout. Put one sheet against the wall, flush with the end of
the building and extending about 1/2 inch below the mudsill. Adjust the location
if necessary so that it laps halfway onto the stud. Use a level to plumb the edge
of the sheet, and nail it in place using 8d galvanized siding nails spaced 8
inches apart. For those walls which require more than one row of siding, you
will need to install metal "Z" flashing before putting the second row of siding on.
(See Detail "R ".)
DETAIL R - PLYWOOD SIDING
I GABLE WALL STUD
VG
4L "Z" FLASHING
WALL TOP PLATE
STUD
At the gable ends, pay close attention and plan ahead; because of the
angled cuts at the roof edge and orientation of the sheets required for the
overlapping joints, you will find that the "waste" pieces will only fit at the opp
end of the building. Careful planning will eliminate what could potentially be
considerable waste and the expense of buying additional sheets of siding.
At the front gable, there is a large opening for the cargo door. If the joil
between sheets of siding falls exactly at the center of this opening (where th
joint between door panels is), you will be able to use these pieces for the pa
of the door itself. If the joint between sheets does not fall at the center of the
opening, it will be necessary to use additional sheets of siding for the door
panels. Refer to the section on Building the Cargo Door.
If you have built the optional dormer, there are special considerations when
installing siding on the dormer walls. At the intersection of the dormer wall and
the short lower rafters, flashing is installed which fits under the siding (extending
at least 4 inches up the wall) and on top of the shingles (extending 6 inches
down the roof). The siding should stop short of this intersection, leaving at least
2 inches of flashing exposed; be sure and get a coat of paint on the bottom
edge of the siding to prevent water from absorbing into the end. When you
install the siding at the dormer wall, don't nail the bottom 18 inches of each
sheet: leave it loose so the flashing may be slipped into place. Finish nailing the
siding in place after the shingles and flashing are installed.
Flashing is also used where the lower roof meets the dormer end wall.
(You will need to install backers as described in Step 2 of Framing The Lower
Roof in the section on Framing The Optional Dormer.) Individual pieces of
metal stepped flashing (sometimes called flashing shingles) are installed, one
piece for each row of shingles. When installing the roofing felt, it should extend
up the wall at least 6 inches. Each piece of flashing should be bent so it
extends 4 inches up the dormer end wall and 4 inches across the shingles. As
each row of shingles is being installed, slip a piece flashing up and under the
siding, positioning and nailing it in place with one nail at the uppermost corner of
it's vertical leg. The siding covers the top of the flashing, but hold the lower
edge of the siding back from the roofing so 1 inch of flashing is exposed and the
end of the siding can be painted. Leave the lower 18 inches of siding loose so
flashing can be slipped up underneath it during the shingling process. Once all
of the flashing and shingles have been installed, finish nailing the siding in
place.
CAUTION: Wear gloves and be extremely careful when handling or working
around the flashing: it's edges are very sharp and can inflict severe cuts.
top of the rake board) from the center of the ridge and the upper end extends
past the end of the support ridge so the two angled pieces meet one another in
line with the centerline of the ridge. Use three 12d face nails through each
angled piece into the end rafter, and through the angled 2x4 into the support
ridge. Use three 12d nails from each side to fasten the angled pieces together
where they meet. (See Detail "RR ".)
Additional small triangular pieces (f roof sheathing will need to be installed
at this cantilever. As with the rest of tha roof, the plywood should stop even
with the face of the framing. At the wal, you will need to install a 2x2 nailer on
top of the fascia board to support the dge of the sheathing.
After the cantilever is framed and sheathed, install the two fascia boards
over the 2x4's. At the cantilever, the Enderside of the roof sheathing and
framing members are exposed to the veather; be sure to protect them with
paint or wood preservative (or both).
If optional gable overhangs have been installed, there are several changes
in how the cantilever is framed. (a) The cantilever must be framed before the
rake boards are attached so the lowerend of the angled 2x4 fits against the
overhang "ladder" instead of against the rake board. (b) After the rake boards
are installed, plywood soffit is installedon the underside of the gable overhangs
and on the underside of the angled 2x4's which frame the cantilever. The soffit
plywood butts into the support ridge; atach 2x2 nailers along the support ridge
to nail the end of the plywood to.
The support ridge is designed so z pulley or other device can be attached
for hoisting loads in and out of vehicles. Any load placed on the support ridge
must be applied from the top; i.e. a pulley should be supported by hangers or
straps which fit over the top of the ridge, not by bolts or nails which penetrate
through the ridge. Used properly, this ridge can safely support a load of 750
lbs. Whichever method or device you clay elect to use, you should consult with
the manufacturer to determine the besi and safest method of installation.
ROOF SHINGLES
After roof sheathing and fascia boards are in place, the shingles may be
installed. Shingle manufacturers generally provide excellent instructions for
installation; reading these car@fUil and following them closely will result in a roof
that looks great and lasts for many years. Shingle the lower roof first, then the
upper roof.
1. Along the eaves, slip the metal drip edge under the roofing felt and tack in
place with roofing nails spaced 12 inches apart.
2. Along the rakes, the rake edge lays on top of the roofing felt. (See Detail
"Y1 ".) Tack in place with roofing nails spaced 12 inches apart.
3. Install the shingles according to the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure
the shingles extend 1/2 inch beyord the drip edge along the eaves and the
rake edge along the rakes.
4. After the lower roof is shingled, a piece of drip edge must be installed at the
intersection of the two roof pitches. It should lay under the roofing felt for
the upper roof, but on top of the shingles on the lower roof. Once this is
installed, repeat Steps 2 and 3 forthe upper roof.
SOFFITS (for optional gable overhangs)
If you have included the optional gable overhangs, enclose them with
plywood soffit material applied to the u)derside of the "ladder" which creates the
overhang. Rip the soffit plywood to size and nail it in place. Use 4d galvanized
box nails, 6 inches on center into the 2x4 framing members (See Detail "X1 ".)
After the soffit is installed, a 1 x2 friezeboard is applied to cover the intersection lI
between the soffit and the wall (if optional lap siding is installed, this board is
installed on top of the sheathing beforethe siding is applied).
"N ROOFING - -' -
_YWOOD SI
_TAL RAKE
X 6 RAKE E
END RAFT'.
)NTINUOU;
3LOCKING
PLYWOOD
(2 FRIEZE
iBLE WAIL
18" T1 -11S
)UBLE TOP
4. Attach the 1 x4 trim t the do�rp;anb 4 0) q
a. At the hinge side of ch door panel the door frame, siding an
should all be aligned flush along this edge.
b. At the bottom of the lower pa an e op of the upper panel, attach
the trim so it extends about 1/2 inch past the plywood. This will cover
the gap between the door and the wall, and lap onto the wall by about
1/4 inch.
c. At the joint between the two doors, the trim on the left hand door extends
about 1/2 inch past the plywood to cover the gap between doors and lap
over the right hand door by 1/4 inch. The corresponding piece of trim on
the right hand door must be held back from the edge of the plywood far
enough to create the "lip" for the left hand trim to close against; allow an
additional 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch so the two pieces of trim do not interfere
with one another.
d. At the joint between the upper and lower panels, the trim board on the
top panel will lap over onto the plywood of the bottom segment, and the
trim for the bottom segment will be held down below this lip. Installing
the trim in this overlapping manner accomplishes two things: it creates a
stop which keeps the door from swinging into the opening and helps
provide a good seal against the weather. It also looks more appealing if
the gaps are covered.
5. Attach the vertical piece of 1 x4 trim to the garage wall along the hinge sides
of the opening. The 2x4 jack stud, plywood siding, and 1 x4 trim should all
be aligned and flush along this edge. Use a pair of 8d galvanized siding or
casing nails every 8 inches.
6. Attach the two hinges to each door panel, using screws for the hinges
which penetrate at least 1 -1/4 inches into the 2x4 framing.
7. Set the lower door panels in the opening, using shims and wedges as
required to align them correctly and hold them in proper alignment. Once in
position, attach the hinges to the 1 x4 trim at the garage wall, making sure
the screws penetrate at least 1 -1/4 inches into the 2x4 wall stud.
8. Set the upper door panels is place and attach their hinges in the same
manner.
9. With the doors hung and closed, install the remaining 1 x4 trim around the
opening, leaving 1/8 inch - 1/4 inch clearance so this trim will not interfere
with the operation of the doors.
10. With the doors in their closed position, install slide bolts, hooks and eyes, or
similar hardware to keep the door segments together and hold the doors
shut.
An important consideration: Since these doors swing outward, they could be
blown about by the wind if they are not fastened in position when opened.
This could be both dangerous and damaging. There are several styles of
gate latches available which can be used to address this problem. Install
the latch on the outside of the door and the catch on the wall of the garage;
when the door is opened, it will catch and be held in place; when it is time
to close the doors, a small rope rigged through hook eyes can be used to
trip the latch and pull the door shut. Regardless of the specific manner and
method, this situation must be addressed. Install a padlock able hasp or
slide bolt to keep the bottom segments of this door closed so they function
as a safety rail across the opening. With the door in it's fully opened
position there is nothing to prevent people or objects from inadvertently
falling from the loft to the ground below. The bottom portion of these doors
should only be opened when necessary, never just for ventilation.
DOORS and WINDOWS
Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the overhead
garage door. You may need to add additional boards to which you can fasten
door components.
Should you decide to install the optional personnel door and /or window,
they are typically installed after the siding is in place. The brick mold trim
around the opening is then installed over the siding. If lap siding is used, install
the doors and windows after the sheathing is installed but before the siding is
applied. The siding then butts into the brick mold trim.
FINISHING WORK
After doors and windows are installed, be sure to caulk the joints between
siding and trim, and any other exposed joints in the garage. Seal the floor as
per the concrete contractor's instructions. Paint, seal or stain the exterior.
Install gutter and downspouts (these materials are not included in the material
list), if necessary. Remember to pitch the gutter slightly towards the downspout
escape. Have a licensed electrician run power to the garage and install interior
and exterior lights and outlets. Landscape with flowers, shrubs, and walkways
to really enhance the appearance of your garage.
UC IAIL Al - UADLC VVCr1r1A14kX
BUILDING THE CARGO DOOR
The cargo door consists of three basic components: 2x4 framework,
plywood siding, and 1 x4 trim. The plar contains dimensioned drawings for the
doors, but it is essential to field verify the measurements and make any
necessary adjustments.
Important Safety Note: These doors ale large, heavy, and will be installed high
in the air at the edge of the building. S)me means of scaffolding will be
necessary so that these doors can be nanipulated and installed. Take extra
care; once the doors are hung and freeto swing, they could knock people or
material off of the scaffolding.
1. Construct the four 2x4 frames as mown, toenailing the pieces together with
12d nails. If necessary, adjust themeasurements so that when all of the
frames are set in place there is 112 inch clearance at the top and bottom of
the rough opening, 1/4 inch at thehinge side, and 1 inch between frames.
If there is no sufficient t su Iclent clearance wound the frames, they may bind against
the rough opening or strike one another when opened.
2. Check the measurements su ements bef r
o e setting the plywood; when the plywood is
set in the opening, there should be1 /4 inch clearance at the top, bottom,
and hinge side, and 1/8 inch to 1 /4inch clearance at the center between
the left and right door halves. Cut one large piece of plywood for each side
and attach both the upper and lower frames to it (leaving 1 inch between
the frames). When attaching the pywood it should be flush with the 2x4
frame at the hinge side, extend ab(,ut 1/4 inch beyond the frame at the top
and bottom, and extend about 112 hph beyond the frame at the center.
Make sure the grooves in the carg( door align with the grooves in the
siding. Being careful to maintain tha correct overlap, nail the plywood
siding to the 2x4 frames with 6d gavanized siding nails at 6 inch on center.
Snnn n chalkline to mark whoro to n it tho rinnr nonni in hnif
DETAIL Y1 - TYPICAL GABLE END
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