Loading...
HomeMy WebLinkAbout1014.95.1IMPORTANT NOTES )esign Loads and Specifications This Gabled Sunroom has been designed to withstand a total roof Dad of 45 pounds per square foot. All lumber used in this project must rave a minimum Modulus of Elasticity (E) of 1.4 x 106 psi. and Fiber Stress in Bending factor (Fb ) of 1150 psi. Concrete footings are based Ipon a minimum soil bearing capacity of 2000 psf. and upon concrete vith a minimum compressive strength of 2500 psi. If these design loads Ind specifications do not meet your local requirements or conditions, hen the builder will be required to make any necessary changes to this Ilan. ;hanges and Adaptation of this Plan This plan has been professionally prepared to conform with generally Iccepted construction practices in North America and to be applicable o most local building conditions to the greatest extent possible. iowever, it is impossible to guarantee that this plan conforms to all wilding requirements and conditions in your local area. Therefore, :hanges or adjustments to this plan may be necessary to comply with Deal codes and regulations, and to conform to all local standards of ;afe and proper building practices for existing local site conditions. In addition, changes in this plan may also be necessary to adapt the struc- ure to the specific building lot conditions and /or the characteristics of he house to which this gabled sunroom may be attached. Such ;hanges to this plan and to its material list must be the responsibility of he builder. Wilder Qualifications This plan is intended for use only by persons knowledgeable in and amiliar with generally accepted methods, techniques and standards for ; onstruction, and persons who are properly trained and competent in he safe operation of all tools and machinery that may be necessary for he construction of this project. Construction of this project by any per - ,ons without these qualifications should NOT be attempted. )imensions Written dimensions shall take precedence over scale dimensions. Do lot scale drawings. :rrors and Omissions While every attempt has been made to produce a perfect set of plans Dr this project, there always exists a small possibility for errors. ,onsequently, it is vitally important that the builder carefully review and heck all details and information on this plan including dimensioning and naterial quantities. Responsibility for the interpretation of the plans in onjunction with the materials list, must lie with the builder. However, ny errors or omissions found should be reported immediately to the aarlinghouse Company Technical Services Department (203) 632- 064, P.O. Box 1717, Middletown, CT 06457. general Materials Notes All exposed nails and other metal parts must be of galvanized steel. ,II lumber in contact with concrete is to be pressure treated to be water - roofed and suitable for outside construction. Windows, doors, and any ther manufactured products are to be installed according to manufac- irer's specifications. Materials needed to construct valley framing are pproximate. Adjustments may be necessary based on existing site onditions and varying roof pitches. Materials for alternate construction iethods have not been addressed in the material list and should be cal - ulated separately. :NERAL INSTRUCTIONS These plans contain the necessary information for building an attached )led Sunroom with an 8/12 pitch gable roof. Dimensioned drawings are uded for three building sizes: 12' x 12', 14' x 14', and 16' x 16'. There is a separate materials list table for each Gabled Sunroom size option. 3ntities are given in the units shown; however, in some cases, the quantities followed by the length of the board (the two being separated by "/"). ,izontal lap siding is specified as standard in each materials list. The materi- lists are calculated based on the drawings contained in the plans. The actual lerials required for construction may vary, and additional materials may be uired to attach the Gabled Sunroom to the existing structure, depending on Sting site conditions, roof pitches, and local building codes. The Gabled Sunroom is designed to be attached to an existing house, and finished on the interior in much the same manner as other rooms in the Ise. Due to the complexity of this project, we do not recommend that con - Iction be attempted by a novice. A portion of the existing house eave will bably need to be removed, a window hole may need to be enlarged to create Dor way, siding must be removed from a portion of the existing house: a pro - of this nature takes considerable skill. If you have not successfully complet- a project of this scope before, we recommend that you hire professionals to d the Gabled Sunroom. To gain an overall understanding of the construction phases, please read rely through these instructions before beginning construction of the Gabled groom. Every effort has been made to insure these instructions are consis- t with the drawings and the materials lists, but there are many ways to build gs, and more than one method can be correct. We recommend purchasing a srence book on basic carpentry techniques for wood frame construction to plement these plans; these instructions are as clear, concise, and compre- Isive as possible for the limited space available, but they are not meant to be last word on the general principles of building. Use common sense, and be are that you may need to make alterations for your particular site, skill, and specific materials available to you. Instructions are included for attaching the Gabled Sunroom to a house wall 1 plywood or hardboard sheet siding or lap siding; if your home is faced with )co, brick, or stone, consult with a local masonry contractor to determine the it way to attach this unit to your house. The Gabled Sunroom is shown rched to the roof of an existing house, and instructions are also included for rching the Gabled Sunroom roof to the walls of a two -story home, or to the II ee nd of a single level home. If y ou have not had experience connecting roofs together, consider hiring professional carpenters and roofers for that tion of the job. Think the construction process through, h a n d answers 9 et t o any may have before you start. You may elect to modify these plans and materi- lists in order to use siding that matches your house, alter the roof pitch and /or 'e overhang to match or compliment the roof of the house, finish the interior in 'fferent manner, or otherwise customize the Gabled Sunroom. TE: These plans show the Gabled Sunroom walls framed with 'pre -cut" ' Js. These are 92 -518 inches long, so that with a single mudsill and a double plate, the walls are 8 feet, 1 inch tall (the height of a typical house wall). In sit cases, this should be tall enough that the ceiling of the Gabled Sunroom not encroach on the doorway from the house to the Gabled Sunroom, but it tie builders responsibility to make certain this is the case, and make any nec- ary alterations. You will need to consider the relationship of the Gabled Sunroom ceiling with doorway from the house, the relationship between the house eaves and L I-. r ".._ ........... ......1... -- 4 .4- - ;,J- ..1 --4l,. 11-... {_ ...J14. --- {";.. ..:/. 1-l;_- I- If you are unsure what to do, consult with your lumberyard, carpenter, or local design professional as to how you need to address this situation. Whatever the case, these instructions assume- the openings for the door and windows will remain a constant height (6 feet, 10 -314 inches) above the floor of the Gabled Sunroom. This is an absolute necessity for the sliding door, and keeps the windows at their normal height. BEFORE YOU BEGIN Planning the exact location of your Gabled Swiroorn is an important step. One major factor in choosing the location is local code restrictions for building setbacks from your property lines. Check with your building inspector for set- back requirements and determine if there are arty I_estrictions, ordinances, or zoning regulations that will affect you. Before construction starts, obtain any necessary building permits. The exact location will be influenced by several other factors: the location of the door(s) leading from your house to the Gabir�d Sunroom, the location of win- dows, and the overall aesthetic look of the Gaga zd Sunroom being attached to the house. Make certain that the Gabled Sunroom wiii not :interfere with any windows, hose bibs, vents, chimneys, or other features of yc,or house ;structure. it may be necessary to remove and /or relocate some Iter;s .heck for underground obsta- cles such as utility lines, sewer lines, or septic t.ani, that may be effected by the location and construction of your Gabled Sung.(-I - Also r heck',o.r overhead obstacles such as electric, phone, or cable Ilrt -7 t -,,itt may be lately above trey present grade but dangerously close to your fir isrw.� t Gar led S "j,1foom. Call your local utility companies for assistance and GETTING STARTED Prepare your site and have the foundation its _zce he'ire on) rin'i lit mate rials for framing the Gabled Sunroom. Coned ° :ks are iargie and ve.y heavy. They require room to maneuver and solr:I ,"urld to drive on ,t t� e i�i any question about access, discuss the situat .), A = -h your concre e ;uf pfier before ordering; a truck full of concrete unable acs A& y O ar site Or stuck rn rr mud is a costly problem. Have a convenient spot ready for stockpilwq )oiilding materials befe.(e they are delivered from the lumber yard. With each, in the construction Drocess, measure twice before you make a cut: you'll sr vF• ,.:)nsiderable time and limit wasted materials, which saves considerable more Pay attention to which pieces of lumber are intended for what componn +., always cut pieces out of the shortest board of sufficient length. There Is a sue s'_lntial difference between having four 2 foot boards left instead of one 8 foot t)oard. Plan to have helpers on hand for pouring the f^rviclation, standing the wai -, setting the rafters in place, and sheathing the rn_,of Your level of skill and physi- cal condition may mean that having help during caber phases of construction is appropriate for you. TOOLS LIST Here is a basic list of tools you may need for ftri.s project: Carpenter's apron Framing square Hammer Carpenter's pencil Chalkline Chisel Drill and Bits Felt -tip Pen Knife (for cutting roofing felt and sharpening pencil) Level (2 foot minimum, 4 foot preferred) Mason's string line (for layout and stra' Safety goggles Sawhorses Screwdrivers Retractable Tape measure Tape measure (reel type, for lay out, 25 foot minimum) Tri- square Wrench (adjustable crescent) Power Circular Saw Reciprocating Saw A special note before beginning construction Fte<, 1, Understand, and Foi!ow the instructions for using your tools, and ALWAYS tiSt- PROTECTIVE EYEWEARiI Step 1 LAYING OUT THE GABLED SUNROOM This is the most critical step of your Gabled Sunroom construction. In order for the doors, windows, and roof to fit well, the buI Ming must be square, level, and built to exact dimensions. , If you plan to here a concrete contractor to 1....,r the foundation of your Gabled Sunroom, laying out the Gabled Sunroom and building the forms can be includ- ed in the contractor's duties. Before the concre -1 +; poured, double check his work to be certain it is square, level, and the dimensions are accurate. A) Determine exactly where your Gabled Sunror m fits to the house, and drive a small nail into the house siding at each of the two corners. B) Estimate the location of the two free - standing corners, and construct batter boards like those shown in Detail "W3 ", using 2x4 stakes and a 2x4 cross- piece (make sure the cross -piece is nailed level). Set the batter boards so they are about 2 feet outside the actual location of the Gabled Sunroom. These batter boards make it easy to adjust the string lines used to precisely lay out the Gabled Sunroom foundation. I LAYING OUT THE GABLED SUNROOM (W3) OUTLINE OF SUNROOM --/ EX!STING, HOES E 0 ' -- BATTER BOARD STRING - - ---- STAKES C) Tie string lines attached to the nails in the siding and to nails driven into the ....... 1. ........... 1.f ill. 1. L...H... L... r...Jn i.. A,i 4"- 4. A C all.. i_..�J -a:_� 111 E) Repeat this process at the other intersection of house and stringline. F) Once the two sides are square with the house, it is only a matter of making sure the fourth side is parallel with the house by measuring the correct dis- tance along the two string lines and marking the remaining batter boards. G) Double check the stringlines for square by measuring diagonally between each pair of corners. If the corners of the rectangle are square and all of the sides are parallel, the two measurements should be identical. If not, recheck the corners using the 4 5 method and go through the process again. You may need to repeat +t � l °DCess several times. Remember getting the layout as exact uls po)ssrble v -t.31% H) With the felt - tipped pen, „lark the final location of the rails that hold the string to the batter board. If a nail should pull loose. you can easily replace it with- out going through the: iavout process again. As you work on excavating and setting forms for the fQU( dation, it may be easier if you take the strings down, but replace them p�) _) lirally and check your progress. THE FOUNDATION AND FLOOR healing with tEc n,:' ,14ferent types or hou E foundations and topographic v:i iatlor s of building 1i:;; � o J „possible in the ! wited space available on these clans. These Olan hr >r. : t,­)ical sc,iutilcli a-,- r , n. �e for a wide variety Of pos- Y P sibllit;es. Your rt ,ul, sibilities. r �� y r „t,or _, ., }a • requir . a off; rent solution, in which r tie you yhor.,lc:, pro f , ; ;�io rat., about the best solution and pros ­ °yi ,� I lie Gabled mown with a 4 i-. onolithic slab founda- tion,. The top Of the sl,41 I own at 8 inches i s r) ,nti ­o qsound. For houses on level lots with ty -gat )I nts or crawl spac,s, Ns places the slab about even with the t:,)p of the foun, and about 10 Inches to 12 inches below the floor of the house IbeC u leDth of the wood floor i(;izstsl In these cases you will netsd to SUO! ry cr '.r getting from the fO tine Gabled SLtrir =DOnl. NOTE: R =ian ahead P.' )main the four) l; > 11 (and stud length) you t 7 i:.' wl,l allcC ' 1 soflicient hea'i,' loo t for the door between ,'v c)Ui- =•ause and this is ab,cci If your .r, a typif,ai slab -on glade there are no floor joists, so the top of the 6 ibis _, ,t Dorn Fiat tin be se, fp ?` ime height as the house four,,dat,;,)r:. Althou:ah it is pt m:i . :�AH,.: to set the top ;f the slab somewhat higher than shown If that is aPlJ of.)rr f.,= your situation, 8 ,dies above grade is the absof 11c ? inimr , to I p insects oul and prevent decay by keeping wood- en components wv.i aw =.y tr,,,n the ground. i I eck yo +ur 'local building code. .;many codes have very i requirements coi1.._o ngng the allowable minimum distance between the t i ;wnd and the lumber used to frame the structure. Because tire for n tailcn is critical to a properly built Gabled Sunroom, and because a proper.y t u,c rdation depends cn a number of factors (concrete mix, depth, se ring tinny. c ii, ;. we recommend you hire a concrete contractor for !.his work. Check with y: -ur f .,nberyard for referrals or look in the yellow pages ;ender "Contractor I - C;,; Don't hesitate tr; tusk for references and the opportunity to see son:;: r contractor's prey s work. Your (;c ntractc ahcuid b< responsible f:)r setting any forms necessary, pour- ing the concrr_,te for the 'oun,: ation and floor, and setting anchor bolts in place (See Detail "B 1 "). The 1< _ -ibl 'J Sunroom fo:rndatiorl should also be tied to the house foundation ir: a mar,n,.�r appropriate for your situation and the materials involved. 112" DIA X 10' NiNCHOR BOIL @ PER LOCAL Or�r: O.C. o c E�O DED PER EXTERIOR BEAM DETAIL (B4) � �'� - 6 X 6 10,11 0 W.W.M. SLOPE GRADE AWAY FROM FOUNDAT @ 6" IN FIRST 10' -0" (TYR) 1� COMr ^ r =_. Generally, walls are constructed laying flat (the slab makes a great work sur- face), trlen stood into place as a unit. Here's the basic framing procedure: A) f;t1t 2x4 pressure- treated lumber to length for each mudsill. If more than one ,_c)",rd is used to achieve the necessary length, the intersection must occur at tt1f, center of a stud. (This also holds true for the top plate.) B) f'.) Jtion a mudsill on top of each line of anchor bolts so that the inside edge the mudsill is flush with the chalkline created in the Foundation and Floor .'ion. C) rA,vi< the mudsill to identify top, inside, and outside surfaces, then tap the Isill above each bolt with a hammer, creating a dimple on the underneath that marks the drilling location for each bolt hole. Dy a 5/8 inch diameter hole at each dimple. E) osition the mudsill to check hole placement and make sure the edge of mudsill lines up with the chalkline. Do riot bolt in place, however. F) the top plates to length (they will be the same length as the mudsills) and K for top, side, etc. G', I a mudsill and top plate next to each other and layout the wall. To layout )roper 16 inch on- center spacing of the studs, hook your tape measure the end of the mudsill, measure in and mark 15 -1/4 inches (the distance ' °.e closest edge of the first stud). Mark an "x" on the far side of the line re the stud will be placed. Tack a small nail at this 15-1/4 inch !nark; hook your tape measure onto the na' and make a rnark every 16 inches wre to place an "x" on the correct side of each mark). This method es the layout marks along the side of each Stud, making it easy to posi- the studs correctly when assembling the wail. P the dimensions shown on the Floor Plan to locate the center of each _h opening. Measure 112 the rough opening width to either side of the or mark and mark the location J the jack studs (which fit under the ter) and king studs (the full - height studs that fit alongside each header). ble check that the rough openings are thy; correct size. Any Of the 16 on- center stud locations that are within the window rough opening will ipple studs. NO L Windows vary widely, so use the rough opening sizes supplied by the r %. )r manufacturer when cutting and assembling the window header and J, ling the position, of the sill. The openings shown on these plans refer r She specific windows listed in the window schedule. The use of any other u- will require a different rough opening size and wail layout. J) ° - each window opening, measure between the king studs to determine the t length for each header (this should be 3 inches inrger than the rough rI r ring di-nension). .gut and assemble the window headers (a 112 inch ply I spacer sandwiched between two 2x12s) as shown in Detail -Z3 ". TOP 12 HE Sf -livl HI \CIC `OW FF STUDI �IEADE U HEIGHT SHED t SHIM AS - 1x61 6 MIL POLY VAPOR BARRIER BRICK f :OUND SAND CUSHION GRUBBED STONE NINDO' ' I -- 0 REBAPS W ;kti 1 l @ 24 O.G. START TIES 12' FROM CORNERS ;,IPPLE & BEAM INTERSECTIONS 12" Especially Important Notes About: Heating and Cooling: You may want some method for heating the Gabled Sunroom in the winter, am4t'Or cooling it in the summer. Find a mechanical con- tractor before starting c+ r strr,iJon, and let him help you determine what method r j is best for your location O ^: _,, and existing situation. it is possible that duct - work or hot water ht ,es w',40 need to be embedded in the slab. Electricity: , Ik . ut still possible, is the need to embed conduit in the c:,,ncrete as a path for tr I electricity into the Gabled Sunroom. Discuss this with a local alectri.-Jan f .r _ starting construction. Once the foun atI „r; r is set according to the contractor's recommendations, replace the soil that w,- + >t✓rbed while constructing the foundation. After the floor slab nas hardened sufficiently to work on, mark the inside edges of the Gabled &,nroom walls using a chalkline. Make sure the wall lines are parallel and check '(.or square by measuring the diagonals between the four corners (they should m:'c;h) Make adjustments if necessary; it is acceptable for the wall to protrude slightly (up to 1/4 inch) outside the foundation in order to cor- rect any irregularities in :he foundation. Step 3 FRAMING THE WALLS The terms "left”, '60 4". an d "front", used t h ese instructions are consistent with the manner In which the drawings are labeled on the plans. The arbitrary "side" r r, erm side Io used In re c ,e to one or both of the left and right walls, h arbi- trary as the 9 , term "end" is used when referring to the front wall. Because this structure is intended to attach to an existing house and has a finished interior, you will need to remove some of the siding on the house, that portion of the overhanging eave which is inside the Gabled Sunroom, and some of the shingles. You may have to cut or enlarge a hole for the door from the house to the Gabled Sunroom. These activities break the house's "seal" against the weather; try to schedule construction so any openings you have to make can be sealed up the same day. Exactly how the Gabled Sunroom is attached to the house may affect the construction sequence. Be prepared for rain before you take any siding off the house, or remove any of the roof shingles. Unless you are experienced in remodeling and attaching two structures together, or are very confident in your abilities, consider hiring professionals to connect the Gabled Sunroom to the existing house. UJ o�C go Z 49y ,_0 e sure the ends of the boards are flush with each other. TO nail the .ids together, use a row of three 12d nails, one about 2 inches from the �. A the header, one about 2 inches from the bottom of the header, and one ?�? e center. Do this every 16 inches along the length of the header, starting e a cl- 3 < . : ending about 6 inches from either end. Turn the header over, and °yi ,� W c.)at this nailing procedure from the other side. ; K) M.,,ke a sub - assembly of each header and it's pair of king studs, using four — o CZ C0 a C3 U) �- f nails through each stud into the end of each header member. Be sure co o J _)ottoms of the headers are set at 6 feet, 10 -3/4 inches above the floor, , .,,,,„­h is the bottom of the mudsiii, not the end of the stud. 3 lL = L) '_,bread the mudsill and plate apart, keeping the mudsill near its final location, C T p L C J set the header sub - assemblies in place between them. Position the studs on their correct layout marks and nail them in place, using two 12d o d .),O facenail through the mudsill and top plate into the end of each stud. M) ^,nf asure from the bottom of the header to the mudsill (this should be 6 feet, t °- , ) 4 inches), cut the jack studs to this length, and install them between the ~ »ader and mudsill. Nail through the mudsill into the bottom of the jack '1 ._ to d ,a us in two 12d nails at each connection and nail through the 'ack uds into the king studs with a pair of 12d nails every 16 inches. _U N) � rc;m the bottom of the header, measure the correct rough opening height `'- ) win- anon each jack stud and make a mark indicating the to of the win 9 1 9 P low 1:;w sill. Cut the sills to length (the same measurement as the window rough � f:F}�ing width), and toenail each sill between its pair of jack studs, using two 'd nails at each connection. P) {'ut the cripple studs to fit between the mudsill and window sill, set them in :c)-e, and fasten them with a pair of 12d nails at each connection. Cripple st;i: s may also be required between the header and the top plate. Install rhe�� >e in a similar manner. Q1 Irate the 2x4 corner post at the front end of the wall b nailing three 2x4 P Y 9 1>1r,(-ks in place alongside the king stud (one against each plate and one :j)aced equally between them), then installing the end stud of the wall. Note ­a,, the top block must be long enough to extend well below the bottom of e headers. Later, when installing the headers in the front wall, they will toe - ,i to this block. Use three 12d nails to fasten each block to the king stud, three 12d nails through the end stud into each block. UJ o�C go Z 49y ,_0 � � U L � C U a> 3 o U o CJ a� 0 3 < (J -0 a U) Za�o W 0 o i .. CD N rn — o CZ C0 a C3 U) �- U co o J Qo-a o Q~ 3 lL = Q C T p L C J c ° ° a c� Q) O o d UJ o�C go Z 49y ,_0