HomeMy WebLinkAbout1014.95.1IMPORTANT NOTES
)esign Loads and Specifications
This Gabled Sunroom has been designed to withstand a total roof
Dad of 45 pounds per square foot. All lumber used in this project must
rave a minimum Modulus of Elasticity (E) of 1.4 x 106 psi. and Fiber
Stress in Bending factor (Fb ) of 1150 psi. Concrete footings are based
Ipon a minimum soil bearing capacity of 2000 psf. and upon concrete
vith a minimum compressive strength of 2500 psi. If these design loads
Ind specifications do not meet your local requirements or conditions,
hen the builder will be required to make any necessary changes to this
Ilan.
;hanges and Adaptation of this Plan
This plan has been professionally prepared to conform with generally
Iccepted construction practices in North America and to be applicable
o most local building conditions to the greatest extent possible.
iowever, it is impossible to guarantee that this plan conforms to all
wilding requirements and conditions in your local area. Therefore,
:hanges or adjustments to this plan may be necessary to comply with
Deal codes and regulations, and to conform to all local standards of
;afe and proper building practices for existing local site conditions. In
addition, changes in this plan may also be necessary to adapt the struc-
ure to the specific building lot conditions and /or the characteristics of
he house to which this gabled sunroom may be attached. Such
;hanges to this plan and to its material list must be the responsibility of
he builder.
Wilder Qualifications
This plan is intended for use only by persons knowledgeable in and
amiliar with generally accepted methods, techniques and standards for
; onstruction, and persons who are properly trained and competent in
he safe operation of all tools and machinery that may be necessary for
he construction of this project. Construction of this project by any per -
,ons without these qualifications should NOT be attempted.
)imensions
Written dimensions shall take precedence over scale dimensions. Do
lot scale drawings.
:rrors and Omissions
While every attempt has been made to produce a perfect set of plans
Dr this project, there always exists a small possibility for errors.
,onsequently, it is vitally important that the builder carefully review and
heck all details and information on this plan including dimensioning and
naterial quantities. Responsibility for the interpretation of the plans in
onjunction with the materials list, must lie with the builder. However,
ny errors or omissions found should be reported immediately to the
aarlinghouse Company Technical Services Department (203) 632-
064, P.O. Box 1717, Middletown, CT 06457.
general Materials Notes
All exposed nails and other metal parts must be of galvanized steel.
,II lumber in contact with concrete is to be pressure treated to be water -
roofed and suitable for outside construction. Windows, doors, and any
ther manufactured products are to be installed according to manufac-
irer's specifications. Materials needed to construct valley framing are
pproximate. Adjustments may be necessary based on existing site
onditions and varying roof pitches. Materials for alternate construction
iethods have not been addressed in the material list and should be cal -
ulated separately.
:NERAL INSTRUCTIONS
These plans contain the necessary information for building an attached
)led Sunroom with an 8/12 pitch gable roof. Dimensioned drawings are
uded for three building sizes: 12' x 12', 14' x 14', and 16' x 16'.
There is a separate materials list table for each Gabled Sunroom size option.
3ntities are given in the units shown; however, in some cases, the quantities
followed by the length of the board (the two being separated by "/").
,izontal lap siding is specified as standard in each materials list. The materi-
lists are calculated based on the drawings contained in the plans. The actual
lerials required for construction may vary, and additional materials may be
uired to attach the Gabled Sunroom to the existing structure, depending on
Sting site conditions, roof pitches, and local building codes.
The Gabled Sunroom is designed to be attached to an existing house, and
finished on the interior in much the same manner as other rooms in the
Ise. Due to the complexity of this project, we do not recommend that con -
Iction be attempted by a novice. A portion of the existing house eave will
bably need to be removed, a window hole may need to be enlarged to create
Dor way, siding must be removed from a portion of the existing house: a pro -
of this nature takes considerable skill. If you have not successfully complet-
a project of this scope before, we recommend that you hire professionals to
d the Gabled Sunroom.
To gain an overall understanding of the construction phases, please read
rely through these instructions before beginning construction of the Gabled
groom. Every effort has been made to insure these instructions are consis-
t with the drawings and the materials lists, but there are many ways to build
gs, and more than one method can be correct. We recommend purchasing a
srence book on basic carpentry techniques for wood frame construction to
plement these plans; these instructions are as clear, concise, and compre-
Isive as possible for the limited space available, but they are not meant to be
last word on the general principles of building. Use common sense, and be
are that you may need to make alterations for your particular site, skill, and
specific materials available to you.
Instructions are included for attaching the Gabled Sunroom to a house wall
1 plywood or hardboard sheet siding or lap siding; if your home is faced with
)co, brick, or stone, consult with a local masonry contractor to determine the
it way to attach this unit to your house. The Gabled Sunroom is shown
rched to the roof of an existing house, and instructions are also included for
rching the Gabled Sunroom roof to the walls of a two -story home, or to the
II ee nd of a single level home. If y ou
have not had experience connecting
roofs together, consider hiring professional carpenters and roofers for that
tion of the job.
Think the construction process through, h a n d answers 9 et t o any
may have before you start. You may elect to modify these plans and materi-
lists in order to use siding that matches your house, alter the roof pitch and /or
'e overhang to match or compliment the roof of the house, finish the interior in
'fferent manner, or otherwise customize the Gabled Sunroom.
TE: These plans show the Gabled Sunroom walls framed with 'pre -cut" '
Js. These are 92 -518 inches long, so that with a single mudsill and a double
plate, the walls are 8 feet, 1 inch tall (the height of a typical house wall). In
sit cases, this should be tall enough that the ceiling of the Gabled Sunroom
not encroach on the doorway from the house to the Gabled Sunroom, but it
tie builders responsibility to make certain this is the case, and make any nec-
ary alterations.
You will need to consider the relationship of the Gabled Sunroom ceiling with
doorway from the house, the relationship between the house eaves and
L I-. r ".._ ........... ......1... -- 4 .4- - ;,J- ..1 --4l,. 11-... {_ ...J14. --- {";.. ..:/. 1-l;_- I-
If you are unsure what to do, consult with your lumberyard, carpenter, or
local design professional as to how you need to address this situation.
Whatever the case, these instructions assume- the openings for the door and
windows will remain a constant height (6 feet, 10 -314 inches) above the floor of
the Gabled Sunroom. This is an absolute necessity for the sliding door, and
keeps the windows at their normal height.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Planning the exact location of your Gabled Swiroorn is an important step.
One major factor in choosing the location is local code restrictions for building
setbacks from your property lines. Check with your building inspector for set-
back requirements and determine if there are arty I_estrictions, ordinances, or
zoning regulations that will affect you. Before construction starts, obtain any
necessary building permits.
The exact location will be influenced by several other factors: the location of
the door(s) leading from your house to the Gabir�d Sunroom, the location of win-
dows, and the overall aesthetic look of the Gaga zd Sunroom being attached to
the house.
Make certain that the Gabled Sunroom wiii not :interfere with any windows,
hose bibs, vents, chimneys, or other features of yc,or house ;structure. it may be
necessary to remove and /or relocate some Iter;s .heck for underground obsta-
cles such as utility lines, sewer lines, or septic t.ani, that may be effected by the
location and construction of your Gabled Sung.(-I - Also r heck',o.r overhead
obstacles such as electric, phone, or cable Ilrt -7 t -,,itt may be lately above trey
present grade but dangerously close to your fir isrw.� t Gar led S "j,1foom. Call
your local utility companies for assistance and
GETTING STARTED
Prepare your site and have the foundation its _zce he'ire on) rin'i lit mate
rials for framing the Gabled Sunroom. Coned ° :ks are iargie and ve.y
heavy. They require room to maneuver and solr:I ,"urld to drive on ,t t� e i�i
any question about access, discuss the situat .), A = -h your concre e ;uf pfier
before ordering; a truck full of concrete unable acs A& y O ar site Or stuck rn rr
mud is a costly problem.
Have a convenient spot ready for stockpilwq )oiilding materials befe.(e they
are delivered from the lumber yard. With each, in the construction Drocess,
measure twice before you make a cut: you'll sr vF• ,.:)nsiderable time and limit
wasted materials, which saves considerable more Pay attention to which
pieces of lumber are intended for what componn +., always cut pieces out of the
shortest board of sufficient length. There Is a sue s'_lntial difference between
having four 2 foot boards left instead of one 8 foot t)oard.
Plan to have helpers on hand for pouring the f^rviclation, standing the wai -,
setting the rafters in place, and sheathing the rn_,of Your level of skill and physi-
cal condition may mean that having help during caber phases of construction is
appropriate for you.
TOOLS LIST
Here is a basic list of tools you may need for ftri.s project:
Carpenter's apron
Framing square
Hammer
Carpenter's pencil
Chalkline
Chisel
Drill and Bits
Felt -tip Pen
Knife (for cutting roofing felt and sharpening pencil)
Level (2 foot minimum, 4 foot preferred)
Mason's string line (for layout and stra'
Safety goggles
Sawhorses
Screwdrivers
Retractable Tape measure
Tape measure (reel type, for lay out, 25 foot minimum)
Tri- square
Wrench (adjustable crescent)
Power Circular Saw
Reciprocating Saw
A special note before beginning construction Fte<, 1, Understand, and Foi!ow the
instructions for using your tools, and ALWAYS tiSt- PROTECTIVE EYEWEARiI
Step 1
LAYING OUT THE GABLED SUNROOM
This is the most critical step of your Gabled Sunroom construction. In order
for the doors, windows, and roof to fit well, the buI Ming must be square, level,
and built to exact dimensions.
,
If you plan to here a concrete contractor to 1....,r the foundation of your Gabled
Sunroom, laying out the Gabled Sunroom and building the forms can be includ-
ed in the contractor's duties. Before the concre -1 +; poured, double check his
work to be certain it is square, level, and the dimensions are accurate.
A) Determine exactly where your Gabled Sunror m fits to the house, and drive a
small nail into the house siding at each of the two corners.
B) Estimate the location of the two free - standing corners, and construct batter
boards like those shown in Detail "W3 ", using 2x4 stakes and a 2x4 cross-
piece (make sure the cross -piece is nailed level). Set the batter boards so
they are about 2 feet outside the actual location of the Gabled Sunroom.
These batter boards make it easy to adjust the string lines used to precisely
lay out the Gabled Sunroom foundation. I
LAYING OUT THE
GABLED SUNROOM (W3)
OUTLINE OF SUNROOM --/
EX!STING, HOES
E
0 ' -- BATTER BOARD
STRING
- - ---- STAKES
C) Tie string lines attached to the nails in the siding and to nails driven into the
....... 1. ........... 1.f ill. 1. L...H... L... r...Jn i.. A,i 4"- 4. A C all.. i_..�J -a:_�
111
E) Repeat this process at the other intersection of house and stringline.
F) Once the two sides are square with the house, it is only a matter of making
sure the fourth side is parallel with the house by measuring the correct dis-
tance along the two string lines and marking the remaining batter boards.
G) Double check the stringlines for square by measuring diagonally between
each pair of corners. If the corners of the rectangle are square and all of the
sides are parallel, the two measurements should be identical. If not, recheck
the corners using the 4 5 method and go through the process again. You
may need to repeat +t � l °DCess several times. Remember getting the layout
as exact uls po)ssrble v -t.31%
H) With the felt - tipped pen, „lark the final location of the rails that hold the string
to the batter board. If a nail should pull loose. you can easily replace it with-
out going through the: iavout process again. As you work on excavating and
setting forms for the fQU( dation, it may be easier if you take the strings down,
but replace them p�) _) lirally and check your progress.
THE FOUNDATION AND FLOOR
healing with tEc n,:'
,14ferent types or hou E foundations and topographic
v:i iatlor s of building 1i:;;
� o J „possible in the ! wited space available on these
clans. These Olan hr >r. : t,)ical sc,iutilcli a-,- r , n. �e for a wide variety Of pos-
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sibllit;es. Your rt ,ul,
sibilities. r
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r tie you yhor.,lc:,
pro f , ; ;�io rat., about the best
solution and pros
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I lie Gabled
mown with a 4 i-. onolithic slab founda-
tion,. The top Of the sl,41
I own at 8 inches i s r) ,nti o qsound. For houses on
level lots with ty -gat
)I nts or crawl spac,s, Ns places the slab about even
with the t:,)p of the foun,
and about 10 Inches to 12 inches below the floor
of the house IbeC u
leDth of the wood floor i(;izstsl In these cases you
will netsd to SUO! ry cr
'.r getting from the fO tine Gabled SLtrir =DOnl.
NOTE: R =ian ahead P.' )main the four) l; > 11 (and stud length) you
t 7 i:.' wl,l allcC ' 1 soflicient hea'i,' loo t for the door between ,'v c)Ui-
=•ause and this is ab,cci
If your .r, a typif,ai slab -on glade there are no floor joists,
so the top of the 6 ibis _, ,t Dorn Fiat tin be se, fp ?` ime height as the
house four,,dat,;,)r:.
Althou:ah it is pt m:i . :�AH,.: to set the top ;f the slab somewhat higher than
shown If that is aPlJ of.)rr f.,= your situation, 8 ,dies above grade is the
absof 11c ? inimr , to I p insects oul and prevent decay by keeping wood-
en components wv.i aw =.y tr,,,n the ground. i I eck yo +ur 'local building code.
.;many codes have very i requirements coi1.._o ngng the allowable minimum
distance between the t i ;wnd and the lumber used to frame the structure.
Because tire for n tailcn is critical to a properly built Gabled Sunroom, and
because a proper.y t u,c rdation depends cn a number of factors (concrete
mix, depth, se ring tinny. c ii, ;. we recommend you hire a concrete contractor for
!.his work. Check with y: -ur f .,nberyard for referrals or look in the yellow pages
;ender "Contractor I - C;,; Don't hesitate tr; tusk for references and the
opportunity to see son:;: r contractor's prey s work.
Your (;c ntractc ahcuid b< responsible f:)r setting any forms necessary, pour-
ing the concrr_,te for the 'oun,: ation and floor, and setting anchor bolts in place
(See Detail "B 1 "). The 1< _ -ibl 'J Sunroom fo:rndatiorl should also be tied to the
house foundation ir: a mar,n,.�r appropriate for your situation and the materials
involved.
112" DIA X 10' NiNCHOR BOIL
@ PER
LOCAL Or�r: O.C. o c E�O DED
PER EXTERIOR BEAM DETAIL (B4)
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- 6 X 6 10,11 0 W.W.M.
SLOPE GRADE AWAY FROM FOUNDAT
@ 6" IN FIRST 10' -0" (TYR)
1� COMr ^ r =_.
Generally, walls are constructed laying flat (the slab makes a great work sur-
face), trlen stood into place as a unit. Here's the basic framing procedure:
A) f;t1t 2x4 pressure- treated lumber to length for each mudsill. If more than one
,_c)",rd is used to achieve the necessary length, the intersection must occur at
tt1f, center of a stud. (This also holds true for the top plate.)
B) f'.) Jtion a mudsill on top of each line of anchor bolts so that the inside edge
the mudsill is flush with the chalkline created in the Foundation and Floor
.'ion.
C) rA,vi< the mudsill to identify top, inside, and outside surfaces, then tap the
Isill above each bolt with a hammer, creating a dimple on the underneath
that marks the drilling location for each bolt hole.
Dy a 5/8 inch diameter hole at each dimple.
E) osition the mudsill to check hole placement and make sure the edge of
mudsill lines up with the chalkline. Do riot bolt in place, however.
F) the top plates to length (they will be the same length as the mudsills) and
K for top, side, etc.
G', I a mudsill and top plate next to each other and layout the wall. To layout
)roper 16 inch on- center spacing of the studs, hook your tape measure
the end of the mudsill, measure in and mark 15 -1/4 inches (the distance
' °.e closest edge of the first stud). Mark an "x" on the far side of
the line
re the stud will be placed. Tack a small nail at this 15-1/4 inch !nark;
hook your tape measure onto the na' and make a rnark every 16 inches
wre to place an "x" on the correct side of each mark). This method
es the layout marks along the side of each Stud, making it easy to posi-
the studs correctly when assembling the wail.
P the dimensions shown on the Floor Plan to locate the center of each
_h opening. Measure 112 the rough opening width to either side of the
or mark and mark the location J the jack studs (which fit under the
ter) and king studs (the full - height studs that fit alongside each header).
ble check that the rough openings are thy; correct size. Any Of the 16
on- center stud locations that are within the window rough opening will
ipple studs.
NO L Windows vary widely, so use the rough opening sizes supplied by the
r %. )r manufacturer when cutting and assembling the window header and
J, ling the position, of the sill. The openings shown on these plans refer
r She specific windows listed in the window schedule. The use of any other
u- will require a different rough opening size and wail layout.
J) ° - each window opening, measure between the king studs to determine the
t length for each header (this should be 3 inches inrger than the rough
rI r
ring di-nension). .gut and assemble the window headers (a 112 inch ply
I spacer sandwiched between two 2x12s) as shown in Detail -Z3 ".
TOP
12 HE
Sf -livl HI
\CIC `OW FF
STUDI
�IEADE
U HEIGHT
SHED
t
SHIM AS
- 1x61
6 MIL POLY VAPOR BARRIER BRICK
f :OUND
SAND CUSHION GRUBBED STONE NINDO'
' I
-- 0 REBAPS W ;kti 1 l @ 24 O.G.
START TIES 12' FROM CORNERS ;,IPPLE
& BEAM INTERSECTIONS
12"
Especially Important Notes About:
Heating and Cooling: You may want some method for heating the Gabled
Sunroom in the winter, am4t'Or cooling it in the summer. Find a mechanical con-
tractor before starting c+ r strr,iJon, and let him help you determine what method
r j
is best for your location O ^: _,, and existing situation. it is possible that duct -
work or hot water ht ,es w',40 need to be embedded in the slab.
Electricity: , Ik . ut still possible, is the need to embed conduit in the
c:,,ncrete as a path for tr I electricity into the Gabled Sunroom. Discuss this
with a local alectri.-Jan f .r _ starting construction.
Once the foun atI „r; r is set according to the contractor's recommendations,
replace the soil that w,- + >t✓rbed while constructing the foundation.
After the floor slab nas hardened sufficiently to work on, mark the inside
edges of the Gabled &,nroom walls using a chalkline. Make sure the wall lines
are parallel and check '(.or square by measuring the diagonals between the four
corners (they should m:'c;h) Make adjustments if necessary; it is acceptable for
the wall to protrude slightly (up to 1/4 inch) outside the foundation in order to cor-
rect any irregularities in :he foundation.
Step 3
FRAMING THE WALLS
The terms "left”, '60
4". an d "front", used t h ese instructions are consistent
with the manner In which the drawings are labeled on the plans. The arbitrary
"side"
r r, erm side Io used In re c ,e to one or both of the left and right walls, h arbi-
trary as the 9 ,
term "end" is used when referring to the front wall.
Because this structure is intended to attach to an existing house and has a
finished interior, you will need to remove some of the siding on the house, that
portion of the overhanging eave which is inside the Gabled Sunroom, and some
of the shingles. You may have to cut or enlarge a hole for the door from the
house to the Gabled Sunroom. These activities break the house's "seal" against
the weather; try to schedule construction so any openings you have to make can
be sealed up the same day. Exactly how the Gabled Sunroom is attached to the
house may affect the construction sequence. Be prepared for rain before you
take any siding off the house, or remove any of the roof shingles. Unless you
are experienced in remodeling and attaching two structures together, or are very
confident in your abilities, consider hiring professionals to connect the Gabled
Sunroom to the existing house.
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e sure the ends of the boards are flush with each other. TO nail the
.ids together, use a row of three 12d nails, one about 2 inches from the
�.
A the header, one about 2 inches from the bottom of the header, and one
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e center. Do this every 16 inches along the length of the header, starting
e a cl-
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. : ending about 6 inches from either end. Turn the header over, and
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c.)at this nailing procedure from the other side.
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M.,,ke a sub - assembly of each header and it's pair of king studs, using four
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f nails through each stud into the end of each header member. Be sure
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_)ottoms of the headers are set at 6 feet, 10 -3/4 inches above the floor,
,
.,,,,„h is the bottom of the mudsiii, not the end of the stud.
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'_,bread the mudsill and plate apart, keeping the mudsill near its final location,
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set the header sub - assemblies in place between them. Position the
studs on their correct layout marks and nail them in place, using two 12d
o d
.),O facenail through the mudsill and top plate into the end of each stud.
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^,nf asure from the bottom of the header to the mudsill (this should be 6 feet,
t °-
, ) 4 inches), cut the jack studs to this length, and install them between the
~ »ader and mudsill. Nail through the mudsill into the bottom of the jack
'1 ._
to d ,a us in two 12d nails at each connection and nail through the 'ack
uds into the king studs with a pair of 12d nails every 16 inches.
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� rc;m the bottom of the header, measure the correct rough opening height
`'-
) win-
anon each jack stud and make a mark indicating the to of the win
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low
1:;w sill. Cut the sills to length (the same measurement as the window rough
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f:F}�ing width), and toenail each sill between its pair of jack studs, using two
'd nails at each connection.
P)
{'ut the cripple studs to fit between the mudsill and window sill, set them in
:c)-e, and fasten them with a pair of 12d nails at each connection. Cripple
st;i: s may also be required between the header and the top plate. Install
rhe�� >e in a similar manner.
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Irate the 2x4 corner post at the front end of the wall b nailing three 2x4
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1>1r,(-ks in place alongside the king stud (one against each plate and one
:j)aced equally between them), then installing the end stud of the wall. Note
a,, the top block must be long enough to extend well below the bottom of
e headers. Later, when installing the headers in the front wall, they will toe -
,i to this block. Use three 12d nails to fasten each block to the king stud,
three 12d nails through the end stud into each block.
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