HomeMy WebLinkAbout1014.95.2R) Install the end stud at the "rear" or house end of the wall, nailing through the
mudsill and top plate with a pair of 12 nails at each connection.
S) Install the second top plate (to create a double top plate). Any joints in the
second top plate should be at least 32 inches away from joints in the top
plate. Cut the second top plate the same length as the top plate. Fasten the
second top plate on with a pair of 12d nails every 32 inches.
Some preparation is necessary before standing the walls:
T) Locate where the Gabled Sunroom walls will fit against the house, and use
your level to help you scribe plumb lines on the house siding indicating the
exterior face of the Gabled Sunroom framing. Carefully cut and remove all of
the siding between the exterior faces of these two walls to expose the
sheathing (or studs if your house does not have sheathing). Take extra pre-
cautions when doing this. There may be plumbing or electrical wires in the
house wall. Accidentally cutting these could be damaging at least, or cause
serious injury.
U) The Gabled Sunroom walls must be firmly attached to the house (See Detail
"V3 "). Remove the sheathing at the points where the walls meet the house
and install four separate pieces of horizontal blocking between existing
house studs (one each at the top and bottom, the other two spaced evenly
between). Replace the house wall sheathing.
W... T0%I &S.0 0 � EXISTING STUD
C(
NEW BLOCKING
1 OR 2 LAYERS (OR PER CODE) OF
5/8" TYPE "X" FIRE RESISTIVE
GYPSUM WALLBOARD AT COMMON WALL
TRIPLE 2 X 4 STUD CORNER
1 X 6 INSIDE CORNER TRIM
VEW SIDING
SHEATHING
EXISTING SIDING
XISTING SHEATHING
1 X 6 BASE TRIM
V) It will probably be necessary to remove that portion of the existing house
eave which is between the exterior faces of the Gabled Sunroom walls (a
reciprocating saw really helps with this task). Cut and remove the existing
fascia board, then cut and remove any soffit material and framing. Cut the
roof sheathing back so it is slightly inside the interior face of the house wall,
taking care not to cut into the top of the rafters any more than absolutely nec-
essary when cutting through the sheathing. Once the rafter tails are
exposed, they can be cut so they are flush with the exterior face of the house
wall (they must still bear fully on the wall).
NOTE: Before setting the walls in place, set sill sealer in place between the
mudsill and the concrete floor, using the chalklines snapped earlier as a guide.
W) Once the house is prepared, stand each wall frame and lift the unit onto the
anchor bolts. (With all the headers in place, these walls will be quite heavy.
You will need helpers to stand them up and hold them in position while they
are being attached and braced).
X) Align the wall with the chalkline on the foundation, put the washers and nuts
on the anchor bolts, and tighten them down. Fasten the Gabled Sunroom
wall to the house, making sure it is plumb in both directions. If necessary,
install shims between the house framing and the Gabled Sunroom wall.
Because of the post at the end of the wall, you must toenail through the post
into the house framing.
Y) Install a temporary brace at the front end of the wall. Construct each brace
by nailing one end of a long 2x4 to the side of the end stud (just below the
top plate) and fastening it's free end to a stake driven into the ground.
Before fastening the brace to the stake, make sure the wall is straight and
plumb.
Z) The Gabled Sunroom walls have 112 inch plywood sheathing. This sheathing
helps keep the wall rigid and plumb, providing resistance to "racking ", and
also serves as a backer for the siding. Install the sheathing on the two side
walls, holding its lower edge even with the bottom of the mudsill. If the
Gabled Sunroom walls are taller than 8 feet, 1 inch, additional pieces of
sheathing will be needed to bring the top of the sheathing up within 3/4 inch
(or closer) of the top of the wall. Use 6d nails spaced 8 inches o.c. into each
stud, and into the top plate and mudsill. Be certain the wall is perfectly plumb
first; once the plywood is nailed in place adjustments are not possible. It is
probably easiest to install the sheathing as whole sheets, cutting the window
openings after the sheets are nailed in place (here's another place where a
reciprocating saw is really helpful).
Once the two side walls are standing, attached to the house at one end, firm-
ly braced at the free end, and the sheathing has been installed, it is time to cut
and install the rafters.
Step 4
BUILDING THE ROOF
The roof system is made up of several components: rafters (they bear the
weight of the roof and transfer it to the walls), the ridge (it provides a nailing sur-
face for the rafters and helps tie them together), collar ties (they tie the rafters
together and help keep the structure rigid) and sheathing (it ties all the rafters
together and provides a surface for nailing the shingles).
The rafter assemblies in this plan are shown at 24 inches o.c. Each rafter
has a "plumb cut' which butts into the ridge, a "bird's -mouth cut" which fits over
the double top plate (see Detail "K "), and a "tail cut" so the fascia and soffit fit.
The size and spacing of the rafters takes into account the strength of the lumber,
the distance each rafter must span, the anticipated weight the roof will bear
(called "load "), and the fact that a sufficient thickness of insulation will be
installed between the rafters.
There are several other terms you should know: "Pitch" refers to the angle of
the roof, "eave(s)" refers to that edge of the roof which is horizontal and parallel
to the ground, "rake(s)" refers to that edge which follows the pitch of the roof and
rises along the gable wall. "Fascia" is the trim board at the edges of the roof,
CAUTION: Getting all the framing pieces of a roof into place can be dangerous,
and is impossible for one person. Plan to have helpers on hand for this task.
Take precautions and use scaffolding to reach the highest parts of the roof. Use
plenty of temporary bracing while erecting the roof.
Before starting the roof: Cutting and installing rafters requires a high level
of skill. Even though these plans contain a rafter template, laying out and cutting
the rafters so they are the exact length and the angles for the cuts are correct
can be tricky even for experienced carpenters. Fitting all of the pieces together
is far more difficult than nailing together stud walls. This roof must also be
attached to either the existing house roof or the existing wall. In either case, this
is not for the inexperienced. Mistakes here can be very costly, so we recom-
mend you consider having an experienced carpenter frame the roof for you.
The basic instructions for building a Gable roof which attaches to the house
roof follow. If the roof of the Gabled Sunroom will attach to the wall of the house,
refer to the paragraphs labeled Roof -to -Wall Connection.
NOTE: Because of tremendous variations in the style, pitch, and material of
house roofs, it is not possible to anticipate the correct size and quantities of the
materials needed to connect this roof to the house roof. The materials lists for
this Gabled Sunroom package are based on the specific conditions shown on
the drawings. Your situation will likely be different; it is the builder's responsibili-
ty to determine the correct materials needed for your specific conditions. Any
materials beyond those shown on the materials list must be determined on site,
and are optional and extra.
Here's the basic procedure for laying out, cutting and assembling a roof with
rafters:
A) Use a reference book on roof construction as a supplement to these instruc-
tions.
B) The rafter layout starts at the front of the building, just as it did for the wall
studs. Layout the rafter locations on the top plates using the layout tech-
niques described previously (remember that the rafters are set 24 inches on-
center, not 16 inches).
C) The 2x12 ridge is exactly the same length as the double top plates. Cut the
ridge to the correct length, then layout the rafter locations using the same
measurements as for the top plates. Double check the ridge layout by set-
ting it on top of one of the top plates. The layout marks should correspond
exactly.
D) Cutting instructions for the common (full - length) rafters are included in this
package. The rafter length shown in the Rafter Template assumes the
Gabled Sunroom is exactly the correct width; if your building width differs by
more than 1 inch, the correct rafter length will also differ and will need to be
determined. Lay out and cut one rafter. Hold the rafter in place and check
the fit of the bird's -mouth and tail cuts.
E) Use the first rafter as a pattern to cut the second. Hold both rafters in place
with a scrap piece of 2x between them to simulate the ridge. Check the fit at
both ends of the building.
F) When you're satisfied with the fit, write "template" on the first rafter and use it
as a pattern for all the others.
G) Nail the rafters in place with 12d nails. At the wall, toenail through the rafter
into the double top plate using two nails on one side, and one nail centered
between them on the other side. At the ridge, face nail through the ridge into
the rafter, or toenail through the rafter into the ridge (use four 12d nails in
either case).
H) It will be necessary to use some temporary bracing to hold the ridge up until
the rafters and wall ties are in place. If more than one board is necessary to
achieve the proper length for the ridge, any joints must occur at the center of
a rafter pair.
J) Install the collar ties, using the height dimension shown on the plans. Use
four 12d nails into the rafter at each end of the collar tie.
With the main portion of the roof in place over the Gabled Sunroom, it is time
to remove the shingles from the house roof where the two roofs intersect and
install that portion of the roof which connects the house and Gabled Sunroom.
Extreme care must be taken when removing and replacing the shingles so the
finished roof does not leak. This is best handled by an experienced roofer, so be
sure and consult with the roofing contractor about your approach to this portion
of the construction. If you are going to tackle this portion of the construction
yourself, have a reference book (or several) on roof framing close at hand.
K)
Q
Once you have rafters and ridge in place above the Gabled Sunroom, drive a
nail into the top of the ridge, near the front of the Gabled Sunroom. Hook a
string onto this nail and stretch it tightly back to the roof of the house and
adjust it vertically until it just touches the end of the ridge nearest the house.
Mark where this string line meets the house roof. Measure from the end of
the ridge nearest the house to this point on the roof. This is the length of the
top of the 2x8 ridge extension. Cut one end of the ridge extension square,
and angle cut the other end to follow the slope of the house roof. Toenail the
square end to the end of the 2x12 ridge, and attach the angled end to the
roof sheathing with eight 8d nails. (If possible, get into the attic and insi
piece of 2x10 blocking between the rafters where the new ridge sets.)
To establish a guideline for placement of the valley plate, mark a chalk
from the intersection of the ridge extension and the house roof to the ini
section of the house roof and the top of the Gabled Sunroom rafter whit
against the house. This chalk line is the point where the sheathing for t
Gabled Sunroom roof and house roof meet. Nail the 2x8 valley plate sli
behind this line so it continues the plane of the other rafters and the roo
sheathing will fit smoothly over it. (See Detail "X3 ") Use two 12d nails e
16 inches and try to get the nails into the house rafters below.
TY"' ^wI MwrrrM
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TAIL CUT
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N) Cut and install the gable overhang framing (See Detail "Y3 "). Both ends of
the continuous 2x4 pieces have the same plumb cut as the rafters. In fact,
these pieces are cut exactly like a rafter, except they do not have a tail or a
seat cut. Assemble each unit into a "ladder" before installation. Face nail
through each continuous 2x4 with two 12d nails into each end of the blocking
pieces. Fasten the unit to the end rafter with two 12d nails every 16 in. The
upper ends of the overhang ladders butt into each other (at the centerline of
the ridge board). The lower ends of the ladders should be flush with the
lower ends of the rafters. �# RooFING FELT
Step 5
2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING
ETAL RAKE EDGE
X 6 RAKE TRIM
X 4 LADDER RAFTER
4D RAFTER
DNTINUOUS 2 X 4
X 4 BLOCKING Co) 24" O.C.
3" PLYWOOD SOFFIT
X 6 TRIM BOARD
?" SHEATHING
4BLE WALL STUD
LAP SIDING
RUBLE TOP PLATE
i DETAIL (Y3)
ROOF SHEATHING
When setting the plywood in place, make certain the rafters remain straight
and maintain their 24 inch o.c. layout. If the rafters bow slightly off -line, the next
row of plywood may not fit correctly. Instead of ending at the center of the rafter
the sheets may fall short, or extend past. Take a little extra care to get the first
sheets in exactly the right place, then hook your tape at the end of each sheet,
and make a mark every 24 inches. This should be the center of your rafter.
A) To help keep the sheathing straight and square, measure up 48 inches at
either end of the roof. Snap a chalkline to use as a guide for the top edge of
the first row of sheathing (extend this chalkline to the valley plate). Attach
the 112 inch plywood sheathing with 6d nails spaced 6 inches apart. Start at
the eaves and work up. Stagger joints in adjacent rows so they don't fall on
the same rafter (see the Roof Sheathing Layout).
B) At both the eaves and gable rakes, the sheathing stops flush with the face of
the framing so the fascia will cover the exposed plywood edge.
C) To protect the sheathing from moisture, cover it with 15# roofing felt as soon
as you have finished nailing it in place. Start at the base of the roof and work
up, overlapping each row by 12 inches. Staple in place every 6 inches along
each edge and down the middle of each row. Let the felt hang over each
edge of the roof by about 2 inches so it will cover the fascia boards which are
installed later. If the sheathing does get wet, let it dry out thoroughly before
putting down the felt.
D) The sheathing stops short of the peak of the roof, creating an air passage for
the ridge vent. Follow the ridge vent manufacturer's recommendations for
the correct amount of space to leave (usually about 1 inch to either side of
the ridge). When applying the roofing felt, let it cover this opening to protect
the interior from the weather, but don't forget to remove this portion of the
roofing felt before installing the ridge vent.
NOTE: Instructions for applying shingles to the roof appear later in this text. If
inclement weather looms, however, you may wish to install the fascia boards
and shingle the roof as soon and quickly as possible.
Step 6
BUILDING THE FRONT (GABLE END) WALL
The front gable end wall is built after the rafters are in place.
A) Measure and cut the 2x4 "gable plate" pieces to fit as shown on the Front
Framing Elevation. These boards fasten to the bottom of the end rafters,
butting into the top plates of the side walls at their lower end, and butting into
one another at their upper end. The outside edge of the gable plate should
be flush with the outside surface of the end rafter. Install the 2x4 gable
backer on top of the gable plate (the drywall ceiling material fastens to this
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` XIS
TING ROOF
X 8 RIDGE EXTENSION
'X 12 RIDGE BOARD
B) Measure between the mudsills of the side walls, and locate the exact center
of the front wall, marking it on the slab. Measure and mark 112 the rough
opening dimension for the sliding door to each side of the center mark.
Double check the size of the rough opening to make sure it is correct. The
mudsills are installed in the space between the door opening and the side
walls, and should both be the same length. Measure and cut the 2x4
mudsills for the front wall from pressure- treated material. Use the same
techniques as before to locate and drill the anchor bolt holes.
C) Layout these mudsills using the dimensions shown on the Front Framing
Elevation and the Floor Plan. Because of the limited space, the construction
of this wall is slightly different: for example, there is no king stud at the out-
side edge of the headers. They toenail directly to the corner posts of the side
walls. For each mudsill:
D) Start at the outside end and mark 1-1/2 inches for the jack stud, then the
width of the window rough opening, then 1 -1/2 inches for the second jack
stud, 1 -1/2 inches for the king stud, and two 1 -112 inch spaces for the two
studs alongside the door opening. The last stud should fall flush with the end
of the mudsill.
E) Cut and assemble the window header using the same techniques as for the
side wall window headers. It is 3 inches larger than the rough opening width.
F) The studs for the front gable wall are individually measured and cut to fit to
the slope of the gable plate using this same basic technique: stand a slightly
longer than necessary 2x4 stud in place on its layout mark and hold it along-
side the gable plate, making sure it is plumb. Draw lines on the stud indicat-
ing the bottom of the gable plate, and lines on the gable plate to mark the
position of the stud. Cut the stud to length, making sure to cut the end at the
correct angle to fit nicely against the gable plate.
G) Cut and install the king stud and the two studs alongside the door opening,
then cut and install the two jack studs, keeping them flush with the front of
the king stud and corner post. Make sure the studs are plumb and nail them
in place with 12d nails (two toenails into the gable plate and three toenails
into the mudsill).
H) Install the 2x12 window headers, toenailing them to the corner posts and king
studs with four 12d nails through each header member.
J) Once all of the front wall studs are installed, measure up along either side of
the door opening and make a mark indicating the bottom of the header for
the door and circletop window. Snap a chalkline across the faces of the end
rafter, then measure between the gable plates at this line.
NOTE: The header fits differently in each of the three different size buildings.
Refer to the Front Framing Elevation to determine the relationship between the
door header, king studs, and gable plate for the size you are building.
K) Cut two 2xl2s this length. To determine the angled cuts at each end of the
header, hold each piece against the face of the end rafters, its bottom exactly
on the chalkline, and scribe along the bottom of both gable plates. Cut the
2xl2s along these lines, then assemble the header.
Q Hold the assembled header in position, aligning it's bottom edge with the
chalkline, and toenail through the header into the gable plates, using four 12d
nails along each side.
NOTE: The 14'x 14' and 16'x16' Gabled Sunrooms both have jack studs under
the door header. These are cut and installed after the headers are in place. The
door header for the 16'x 16' Sunroom will not need to be cut at an angle to follow
the roof slope (although the upper corners may need to be cut slightly for a good
fit).
M) Double 2x4 angled headers are installed at 45 degrees in the corners of the
opening for the circletop window (See the Front Framing Elevation). Use the
dimensions on the plans to locate the ends of these boards, and use the
same basic techniques described above: hold them alongside their final loca-
tion, scribe lines indicating their actual length, cut, and install them.
N) Measure, cut, and install the cripple studs above and below the window
openings.
P) Install 112 inch sheathing to the front wall in the same manner as for the side
walls.
Q) Once the sheathing is installed, remove the temporary braces from the side
walls.
Step 7
INSTALLING THE FASCIA
A) At the eaves, make sure all the rafter tails are the same length (any variation
will be visible in the fascia) by stretching a string line from one end rafter tail
to the other, trimming rafter tails where necessary.
B) Install the fascia boards along the gable rakes, holding them flush with the
top of the plywood roof sheathing. It is allowable for the fascia to dip slightly
above or below the surface of the roof (up to 1/4 inch) in order to keep it as
straight as possible. You may find it effective to nail either end in place, then
use a string line or a helpers eye to determine any adjustments necessary to
get the board straight. The same plumb cut used on the rafters is used
where the pieces meet at the ridge. Let the lower end of the fascia extend
about 1/16 inch past the rafter tail; this will insure the eave fascia fits tight
against it and makes a professional looking joint. To determine the exact
length for these two boards, make the angled cut for the upper end, hold (or
tack) them in position, and scribe a line along the end of the rafter.
C) Install the fascia boards along the eaves, setting the top of the fascia flush
with the top surface of the plywood roof sheathing (using a square as a
straight -edge, set it on top of the roof so it protrudes over the edge, and
adjust the fascia until it just touches the square). Use a similar technique as
above for installing the fascia board as straight as possible.
X 6 VALLEY JACK RAFTER
Step 8
X 6 COLLAR TIE INSTALLING THE SOFFITS
Overhangs along the eaves are built into this design. They consist of framing
covered with plywood (see Detail "A4 "). To install the soffits:
A) Fasten the 2x4 nailer to the wall of the Gabled Sunroom, level with the hori-
x 8 VALLEY PLATE zontal tail cut of the rafter, using a 12d nail into each stud. This nailer must
extend past the front wall, and stop flush with the face of the ladder gable
framing (to provide a nailing surface for the soffit returns installed later).
B) Install the 2x4 "lookouts" between the nailer (two 12d toe nails) and each
rafter tail (two 12d face nails). These should be level.
;OMMON RAFTER C) Install continuous soffit vent at the front and rear overhangs, nailing the vent
aT SUNROOM to the bottom of the rafters. Several companies make soffit vents, so the
exact location of the vent and its method of installation should follow the par-
ticular manufacturer's instructions.
D) Rip the 3/8 inch A -C soffit plywood to size and nail it in place. Use 6d galv.
box nails: 12 inches o.c. into the continuous nailer, 2 into each lookout, and 2
into each rafter tail. Intersections between sheets should occur at the center
of one of the lookout pieces, so the end of each sheet can be nailed. This
plywood should extend to the front end of the 2x4 nailer (flush with the out-
side face of the end rafter).
El ADDIV olvwood to the aable overhangs at this time_ The lower ends of these
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