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Home My WebLink About09110029.1IMPORTANT NOTES BUILDER QUALIFICATIONS This plan is intended for use only by persons knowledgeable in and famili�r with generally accepted methods, techniques and standards for construction, and persons who are properly trained and competent in the safe operation of all tools and machinery that may be necessary for the construction of this structure. Construction of this garage by any persons without these qualifica- tions should NOT be attempted. DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS Concrete footings must be placed in undisturbed soil that has a minimum load bearing capacity of 2000 p.s.f. . Garage roofs have been designed to carry a total load (i.e., live load plus dead load) of 27 p.s.f. However, the roof load bearing capacity can be changed by altering the size and spacing of rafter members Iand certain garage door headers) as directed in the "Rafter Load" table within the plans. These plans make no special provisions for high wind conditions. Additional materials and/or altered construction techniques may be required to meet local conditions and requirements. DIMENSIONS Written dimensions shall take precedence over scale dimensions. Do not scale drawings. ERRORS AND OMISSIONS While every attempt has been made to produce a perfect set of plans for this project, there always exists a small possibility for errors. Consequently, it is vitally important that the builder carefully review and check all details and information on this plan including dimensioning and material quantities. Responsibility for the interpretation of the plans in conjunction with the materi- als list, must lie with the builder. However, any errors or omissions fiound should be reported immediately to the Garlinghouse Company Technical Services Department at (860) 659-5667, 174 Oakwood Drive, Glastonbury, CT 06033. GENERAL MATERIALS SPECIFICATIONS All lumber used in these garages must have a minimum Modulus of Elasticity (E) of 1.4 x 106 and Fiber Stress in Bending factor (Fb) of 875 p.s.i. BASE VALUE. Moisture content of the lumber is not to exceed 19%. Footings require concrete with a minimum compressive strength of 2500 p.s.i. All nails, bolts, and other metal connectors that are exposed must be of hot dipped gal- vanized steel. Windows, doors and other manufactured products are to be installed according to manufacturer's specifications. No allowance has been made in the materials list for temporary bracing, batter board material, paint and stain or associated sundries. Nofe: Any garage design chosen which calls for rafters or trusses at 24 inches on center. will require 1/2 inch plywood clips at all plywood joints at each midspan between rafters. GENERAL GARAGE INSTRUCTIONS Read through the entire instructions before beginning construction of your garage. You may want to purchase a good reference book to supplement these plans. Although these instructions are clear, concise, and as comprehensive as possible for the limited space available, they're not meant to be the last word on the general principles of building a garage. Decide which garage size and options you want to use. Then, on the plans, . n w r to an u- circle the drawings and details you'll need to refer to Get a s e s y q es tions that arise before you begin work. Two professional carpenters could prob- ably erect this garage in a week. Depending on your skill leve�, plan to spend 3 or 4 times longer building it yourself. For add�tional help, consult with your lumberyard. These plans can be used to build a garage with a 4/12 pitch and an 8/12 pitcl� gable roof in a variety of sizes and garage door configurations. Standard con- struction is 8' tall walls with 7' high garage doors. Plans for the following garages are contained in this package: • Gable entry garages that are: 12�� 12' x 20', @ 4 14' wide and 20', 22', 24', 26' deep, PE 16' wide and 20', 22', 24', 26' deep, with these front garage door options: • jType "A") one 9' wide single garage door, •{Type "B") one 9' wide single garage door and a personnel door IMPORTANT NOTE: When using 16d nails, please be aware that the "head" or "tip" of the nail may penetrate through the material that you are working with. Bend over all nail tip penetrations for safety reasons. ORGANIZATION OF THESE PLANS Because this set of drawings contains full plans for garages in several sizes and roof pitches, you will need to locate the foundation plans, framing plans, elevations. roof sheathing details, rafter template and cross-sectional that pertain to the specific garage you intend to build and disregard the other details. Full framing plans for each garage size are shown. Quantities are given in the units shown. Horizontal lap siding, 4/12 roof pitch, and a 9 foot wide single garage are specified in the materials list as standard (where options are available, this selection is preceded by "Either". Within each list, materials for the other roof pitch are shaded and preceded by "Or". To build a garage with one of the alternate roof pitches, include the materials in the appropriate shaded areas instead of the materials next to the "Either" immediately preceding them. Materiafs for other optional features are contained in separate add-on materi�ls lists at the bottom of each table. LOCATING THE GARAGE Two important factors in choosing your garage location are driveway access and local code restrictions for side and rear building setbacks from your proper- ty lines. Check with your building inspector for setback requirements and any other restrictions. If the garage cannot be built in line with your driveway, be sure to allow suffi- cient swing for your car to curve through the door. If a very long driveway makes it �mpractical to back out to the street (which is illegal in some locations!!) plan for a turn-around area beside the garage. Once you've settled on a location, make sure there are no underground z obstacles such as utility lines, sewers or septic tanks. And check for trouble � overhead as well: electric, phone or cable lines that may be in the way or dan- � gerously close, both during construction and once your garage is built. Call your local utility companies for assistance and advice. �� 0 O� GETTING STARTED � _ Get a permit from the building inspector's office, if required. Order all necE�s- m z o- sary materials (See "Materials List") from your lumberyard and have them deliv- o� ere d to a spo t convenien t to your cons truc tion si te. Fami liarize yourse l f wi t h � o any tools (See "Tools LisY') you'll be using during construction. With each step, = J measure twice before you make a cut. You'll save on time and limit wasted W o materials. Plan to have helpers on hand for pouring the foundation, standing °-� the walls. and setting the rafters in place. TOOLS LIST Here is a basic list of the tools you'll need for this project: Carpenter s apron Sawhorses Framing square Saws (crosscut and rip) Hammer Screwdrivers Carpenter's pencil Tape measure (retractable, 20 Chalkline foot minimum) Drill and b�ts Tape measure (100 foot reel type Felt-tip pen tape measure) Knife Tri-square 4 f r f rr 2 foot minimum Wr n h le rescent Level ( oot p e e ed, ) e c (adjustab c ) Paint brushes, sandpaper Power circular saw Safety goggles LAYING OUT THE GARAGE This is the most critical step of your garage construction. In order for the roof to fit well, the garage must be square, level, and built to exact dimensions. L<�y out the garage properly, and it will go together like a well-made jigsaw puzzle. Do it wrong, however, and you'll still feel like you're putting together a puzzle - but with mismatched pieces! NOTE: If you plan to hire a concrete contractor to pour the foundation of your garage; laying out the garage and building the forms can be included in the con- tractors duties. Here's the procedure: 1. Drive stakes into the ground to approximately mark the placement of one corner and two adjacent sides of the garage. 2. Make batter boards, using 2x4 stakes and a 2x4 cross-piece (make sure the cross-piece is nailed level). Batter boards make it easy to adjust the string lines used to precisely lay out the garage, and ensure the garage is square. 3. Drive the batter boards into the ground about 2 feet outside the stakes marking the approximate corner. (See Detail "A".) 4. Estimate the location of the remaining 3 corners, and construct batter boards for each one. DETAIL A- LAYING OUT THE GARAGE 5. Run string lines between the batter boards to mark the exact �� location of the garage ��- ,��\ � srR�r,G WaIIS. %' � � � � \� �� 6. To get the � � � � Ia�/OUt p2f- � � � , �' � � �= OUTLINE OF GARAGE � �� \ fectly �� _____ � ` % � square, use � ��'� �� - 5 `� _ � -- " the 3-4-5 method ° � \�\ - - _ _ _ , � i � � � 3 � - ,y,1i at each corner. Starting in �, ,. one corner at the intersec- 1�- \�� '� '/ tion of two of the string lines, �'�" �;�, '- BArTER BonRo measure 3 feet along one line - sTnKEs and 4 feet along the other. Using a felt- tipped pen, mark both of these measurements. Then measure diagonally between the marks. If the corner is perfectly square, the diagonal distance between these two points will be exactly 5 feet. 7. Double-check for square by measuring diagonally between each pair of cor- ners. The measurements should be equal. If they're not, recheck your cor- ners using the 3-4-5 method. 8. On the batter boards, use a felt-tip pen to mark the final location of the nails holding the string lines. That way, if a nail pulls loose, you can easily replace it. As you work, it may be easier to take the strings down, but you should replace them periodically to check your progress. THE FOUNDATION AND FLOOR There are a variety of foundations - concrete stem wall, concrete block stem wall, monolithic slab with curb - that are appropriate for a garage. Refer to Details "B", "C" and "D" and consult with your lumberyard to help you decide which is best for your situation. Because the foundation is critical to a properly built garage, and because a properly built foundation depends on a number of factors (concrete mix, depth, setting time, etc.), we recommend you hire a concrete contractor for this work. Check with your lumberyard for referrals or look in the yellow pages under °Contractors - Concrete." Your contractor should be responsible for setting any forms necessary, pour- ing the concrete for the foundation, post footing(s) and floor, and setting the anchor bolts and beam support post(s) in place. (See Detail "E".) If you are using the monolithic slab with a block curb, extra care and planning will be required to get the anchor bolts in the correct position so they don't interfere with laying the block, and are set at the proper height for attaching the mudsill. Once the foundation has set according to the contractor's recommendations, replace the soil that was disturbed while constructing the foundation; open trenches and piles of dirt can slow the construction process and be very haz- ardous. When the area around the garage has been prepared and the floor slab has hardened sufficiently to work on, mark the inside edges of the garage walls using a chalkline. (See Detail "E".) Check for square by measuring the diago- nals between the 4 corners (they should match). Then make sure the wall lines are parallel. If they're not, adjust the wall markings as necessary; it is accept- able for the wall to protrude slightly (up to 1/4 inch) outside the foundation in order to correct any irregularities in the foundation. DETAIL B- CONCRETE STEM WALL DIA X 10" ANCHOR BOLTS-� �-- WALL AT GARAGE '-0" O.C. EMBEDDED � R LOCAL CODE � � � 4" CONG SLAB W,' 6 X 6 10/10 WWM Z � - � � , �� ' � - '�<�; �, '' •. ,_�,,,�-,. � _=.- _ - 6'IAIL POLY VAPOR BARRIER �:' `- 4" SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE ` � < SLOPE GRADE AWAY � 112" EXPPNSION JOWT FROM FOUNDATION 8" IN FIRST8'-0" (TYP.) 8" POURED CONCRETE WALL W/ #5 REBARS VER-. A 4'-0" O.C. ° W/ (4) #5 REBARS H�RIZ. � 0 ° °� 1'-4" #5 X 18" DOWELS �a 4'-0° O.C. 2 #5 REBAflS CONT. DETAIL C- CONCRETE BLOCK STEM WALL FILL TOP 2 COURSES WALL AT GARAGE W/ GROUT AT BOLTS �- 1/2" EXPANSION JOINT SLOPE GRADE AWAY �- 4" CONG SLAB W/ 6 X 6 10/10 WWM FROM FOUNDATION 8" / W FIRST8'-0" (TYP.)� � � � n ., o , ��-, � °� ��o c � ,�\� i - �,,� �� 4" X 2" CONT. KEY - I � � #5 DOWELS @ 4'-0" O.C. � C ^ J oo � � 16" X 8" FTG. W/ (2) #5 CONT. -� Z Z J � � N ° o LL p J () a J � ' U ��o �J O Y J W w m = p U � 1/2" DIA. X 18" ANCHOR BOLTS @ 4' O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE 6 MIL VAPOR BARRIER �" SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE #5 AT 4' O.C. FILL BLKS SOLID Wi CONG AT VERT. #5 8" C-90 CONC. BLK. (ti OF COURSES DETERMINED BY FROST LINE) DETAIL D- MONOLITHIC SLAB WITH CURB V2" DIA X 18" ANCHOR BOLT �a I 4'-0" O.C. EMBEDDED PER LOCAL CODE I 8" CONCRETE BLOCK FILLED WITH MORTAR � 6X610/10WWM-� .\ � \ � -� � �\ }- r -,- - -- 6 MIL POLY VAPOR BARRIER � SAND CUSHION OR CRUSHED STONE -� SLOPE GRADE AWAY -- FROM FOUNDATION C� 8" IN FIRST 8'-0" (TYP.) m 6 J � �� . , � o j°_ _ _.. ?. �� N I (4) #5 REBARS W/ #5 TIES Qa 24" O.C. _._'� i I �, START TIES HERE 12" FROM CORNERS ' UNDISTURBED SOIL OR & BEAM INTERSECTIONS I 12�� y WELL COMPACTED FILL DETAIL E- FOUNDATION AT DOORWAY � I'I I I I , � -' i_' � � e - °� �. .- �_ • � �-- , �-- ° = i . / `� 2 X 4 STUDS @ 16" O.C. 2 X 4 TREATED MUDSILL (LINE UP OUTSIDE EDGE OF SILL FLUSH WITH FACE OF FOUNDATION) 1!2" DIA. ANCHOR BOLTS jREFER TO FOUNDATION PLAN FOR SPACING) SILL SEALER STUD � BLOCK DOWN FOUNDATION � ? °""' @ PERSONNEL DOOR OPENING �; , �;.rx .r4: ' OR GARAGE DOOR OPENING �a � � `_ �` • Ft"��T �- CONCRETE GARAGE FLOOR SLAB 'y#'��r� -= � CRUSHED GRAVEL BELOW SLAB ' , � �- i A NF�ICT NOTE IF THERE S CO BETWEEN THE ANCHOR BOLT LOCATION AND THE STUD LOCATION. RECESS THE NUT AND WASHER INTO THE PLATE AND CUT OFF THE ANCHOR BOLT FLUSH WITH THE TOP OF THE PLATE. If your garage will be attached. the side of the foundation abutting the house will be eliminated. The contractor should tie the garage foundation to the house foundation in a manner that is appropriate to your particular situation. Usually, the garage foundation should be at the same height as the house foundation. FRAMING THE WALLS Generally, walls are constructed and then set into place as a unit. The basic instructions for framing walls for a gable style garage follow. Here's the framing procedure: 1. Cut 2x4 pressure-treated lumber to length for each mudsill. The mudsills for the two side walls should ex+P��+ �he entire length of the foundation so the front and back walls butt into them. 2. Position a mudsill on top of each line of anchor bolts so that the inside edge of the mudsill is flush with the chalkline created in the Foundation and Floor Section. 3. Mark each surface of the mudsill to identify top, inside, and outside. 4. Tap the mudsill above each bolt �,�Pith a hammer. This puts a dimple on the underneath side which marks drilling locations for each bolt. 5. Drill a 5/8 inch hole at each dimple. 6. Reposition the mudsill to check hole placement. Do not bolt in place, how- ever. 7. Cut the top plates to length and mark for top, side, etc. 8. Beginning with the side walls. lay a mudsill and top plate next to each other on the slab (it makes a great work surface!). Hook your tape measure onto the outside edge of the mudsill and plate, and measure in and mark 15-1/4 inches (this is the distance to the closest edge of the first stud). Mark an "x" on the side of the line where the stud will be placed. Tack a small nail at this 15-1/4 inch mark: then hook your tape measure onto it and mark off every 16 inches (be sure to place an "x" on the correct side of each mark). This places your 16 inch marks to the side of each stud. Mark each mudsill-plate pair the same way. Be sure you are consistent with your markings. To mark the stud loc�tions for the side walls, start at the front of the building and work towards the back. To mark locations for the front and back walls. work in the same direction for both. Later, when applying siding or roof sheathing. start from these same locations. This keeps the rafters and studs aligned and minimizes waste when installing siding and sheath- ing. 9. After the stud locations are marked, spread the mudsill and plate apart, keeping the mudsill near its final location. Lay all of the studs in place 14. Frame the fr�nt and back walls. Follow the procedure for the side walls DETAIL K- TYPICAL RAFTER (Steps 8-13) except locate the first stud 11-3/4 inches from the end of the mudsill or plake. This allows for the thickness of the side wall so the stud layout begins at the corner of the building, where the sheathing and siding layout starts (11-3/4 inches plus 3-1/2 inches equals 15-1/4 inches.) For RIDGE larger garage door openings, you may elect to put the header in place after the wa91 is st�nding. Nail the two jack studs in place using two 16d nails / � through the piate; nail the jack stud to the full height stud (and the second ; jack stud to �he first) with a pair of nails every 16 inches. Cut the header D �P�uMe cuT (and cripple_, �f required) to length while the wall is on the ground. Remember t� calculate the height for the header from the floor of the , garage, not j�:st the bottom of the wall plate. �� \�---ROOF PiTCH 15. Set the fr�nt and back walls in place, using bracing to support them. 16. Assemble tha garage door header (1/2 inch plywood spacer sandwiched between twa 2x10s). (See Detail "J".) Larger openings require larger eiRO'S-MOUTH CUT headers. Make sure the ends of all the boards are flush with each other. t`�' � 17. Nail the headeo assembly securely by nailing through Zh full height stud .� !� into the heaclE3r as shown in Detail "J". Use four 16d to each end of r,� �� # cur� ch 2x he er rd. - � y �� +� ea a� boa �° t,.� � h�, t„�?� 18. After all wall frames are up, use a level and adjust th�i�es as necessary .b a to plumb each corner. �� ('j ,� T��'after assemblies in this plan are shown at 16 inches on center. Eacn rafter 19. After the cor�ers are plumb, nail on the remaining s�� top plate, ov��r7� 4�n c�' ;a bird's-mouth" notch which fits over the double top plate, a"plumb cut" lapping cornar joints to tie alt frames together. Use�� of 16d nail �`ve�ryy�►�J� ��ch butts into the ridge, and a"tail cut" so the fascia and soffit fit. (See Detail 32 inches, a7c� three 16d nails at the overlaps as s �in Detail "F.:L��7 C�,�'' ".) The size and spacing of the rafters takes into account the strength of the 20. Nail the walls together at the corners. Face nail t the single st�.a�i �°�� mber, the distance each rafter must span, and the anticipated weight the roof the corner wtt7 a pair of 16d nails every 12 inche �� p�will bear (called "load"). If you need to change this, see the Rafter Load -able. 21. Notch the o�ter edges of the studs at an angle to t the let-in � '��w `�' If you decide to build the rafters yourself, follow this procedure: �� Q �- � (diagonal wcis braces) as required. Place the 1et � ce across ��ci�',;x• �"� 1. Use a reference book on roof construction as a supplement to these instruo- at the angle :�ii�wn and mark where it crosses e ud. Set y �ularr;"� � tions. saw to cut sl�g��tly deeper than the brace, and r eross ea . L�� 2. Cutting instructions for the common (full-length) rafters are included iri this the let-in br�ce into the notch, making sure the� ' is still squar , and �JO Q package. The rafter length shown in the Rafter Template assumes th� attach the brace with two 10d nails at each stud. NOTE: There are sev�r� garage is exactly the correct width; if your building width differs by mc�re equally acce;�table bracing alternatives which may be used. These include than 1 inch, the correct rafter length will also differ and will need to be deter- several style� of inetal bracing (which require only one or two saw cuts mined. Lay out and cut one rafter. Hold the rafter in place and check the fit instead of a arge notch), or a sheet of plywood sheathing at each end of of the bird's-mouth and tail cuts. the wall (whi:�� may not be feasible with some siding options). 3. Use the first rafter as a pattern to cut the second. Hold both rafters ir� place with a scrap piece of 2x between them to simulate the ridge. Check the fit DETAIL J- aARAGE DOOR DETAIL at both ends of the garage wall. 4. When you're satisfied with the fit, write "tempfate" on the first rafter ar.d use v2° P�vwoo� it as a pattern for all the others. SHEATHING 5. Nail the rafters in place with 16d nails. At the wall, toenail through the rafter z-2xa into the double top plate using two nails on one side, and one nail centered �oue�E roP P�arE between them on the other side. At the ridge, face nail through the ridge 2 X 4 CRIPPLE STUDS into the rafter (use four 16d nails in either case). f� � 1 b�� n r I'� i � y:f CAUTION: Getting all the framing pieces of a roof into place can be I' ' � dangerous. Take precautions and use scaffolding to reach the highest parts of ,, , ��\� __, ��.. the roof. ��-� �` z x a a�ocK�r,� 6. Install the collar ties and wall ties. (See Detail "L".) Use four 16d nails at '`°'�:�y � '!' S, ;� = each end of the collar tie into the rafter. At the wall, toenail through tr�e wall �\�, , �.w � ; AV� � FLASHING tie into the double top plate using three 16d nails. Since the wall ties are �, �� _ .'` � !' next to a rafter, fasten the two pieces together with two 16d nails. Or�ce the . I �`�� ' wall ties are installed, remove the bracing holding the walls in place. � ° DOUBLE JACK STUDS 7. Cut the gable studs to fit (16 inches on center) between the double top plate � �' u"°ER "�A°E� and the gable end rafters. (See Details "M" and "N".) �, Fu��HE�GHTSTUO g Line up each gable stud with the wall studs betow; plumb and nail in place � :;; �i ' SECTIONAL ROLL-UP with 8d nails (three toenails into the top plate and two nails into the end �' GARAGE DOOR !; rafter). ! i � t X 6 JAMB TRIM X 4 BLOCKWG {FULL HEIGHT) 9. Use a string line to make sure the ends of the rafter tails are all the same aR�cK rao�n length (if they're not, a bow will show up in the fascia). Trim the rafter tails if necessary. 10. If you're using gable overhangs, install them now. (See Detail "N".) between them. Assemble the double 2x4 corner post by putting three 22. Remove the temporary braces at each end and align the walls: Using a Assemble each unit into a"ladder" before installation. Face nail through blocks (1 at the top. 1 at the bottom, and 1 in the middle) between two 2x4 ladder, sight ;rom one corner to the other aiong the top plate. Use the cen- each continuous 2x4 with two 10d nails into each end of the blocking studs. Nail this unit together with 16d nails. (See Detail "F".) ter brace to r�ve the wall in or out as necessary. Add more bracing if nec- pieces. Fasten the unit to the end rafter with two 16d nails every 16 �nches. 10. With two 16d nails at each location hammer through the face of the mudsill essary to �r.��letely straighten the wall and hold it in place. (If the walls 11. To help keep the sheathing straight and square, measure up 48 inchE� at and the plate into the end of each stud. bow in or �uG. �I �� f�afters w�n'+ fit �ro��rly.) Qnce the �,valls are straight, either end of the roof. Then snap a chalkline to use as a guide for thr= top 11. If you have opted for the �vindow and/or personnel door, frame as shown in tic�hte;� ?!-�� c�h�r bolts. edge o# the #irst row of shea#k�ing. Attach the 1/2 inch plywood sheatf �,ng Details "G" and "H". 23. Apply 1/2 �nt;h plywood sheathing to the front garage wall. This is impor- with 8d nails spaced 6 inches apart. Start at the eaves and work up. DETAIL F - WALL CONSTRUCTION �� - _`'1 / r � �'� r � l; �i i �; ,, i I �I ' \.� ' i �, � i nC7t IRI. H �:'6P F � X a GRIPPLF STUO; ? 2 X 6 NEA( `- ii2" PLYWOOD ,: �, � -� a5t iINC " SHin,t rsr � wrrN �-, �OOR FRAME ��1 E \ � -�- rrtSJltNNtL L �-��c;rc 5 i w urvu �ULL I IEIt'aHT; �:2" SI IEPSH ` SHIM AS REC X 6 �Rh� DETAIL G & H - DOOR AND WINDOW z X a WINDON 2 x � CRIPPLE STUDS b tant; the larc=.� openirgs in the front wall make it impractical to install let-in Stagger joints in adjacent rows so they don't fall on the same rafter. (See bracing. F'lywood sheathing provides the necessary resistance to "racking". Roof Sheathing Layout.) z x a sECOrvo roP P�ATE �eeping the �vall plumb. Use 8d nails spaced 8 inches on center into each 12. If you are not building the gable overhangs, the sheathing should be flush � �ovER�AP THE ToP P�ATE stud, and �n`o th� top plate and mudsill. Be certain the wall is perfectly with the end of the last rafter. If gable overhangs are used, the sheathing , oF THE o-rHERwa�� plumb first: �rce the plywood is nailed in place, adjustments are not should be flush with the outside face of the overhang framing. - 2 X 4 TOP PLATE OR PLATE possible. NOTE: The Roof Sheathing Layouts included with the plans do not include the FRAMING TFiE ROOF optional gable overhangs. If you do use the overhangs, the layout will be simi- .- 2 X 4 STUDS @ 16° o.c. The roof system is made up of several components: rafters (they bear the lar, but not exactly the same. Of course, more sheathing will be required. 1 X 4 LET-IN BRACING ��NAi�TO EACH sruo weight of the root and transfer it to the walls), the ridge (it provides a nailing sur wirH 2-,00 �,A��s� face for the rafters and heips tie them together), wall ties (they keep the walls from spreadina ��art), collar ties (they tie the rafters together and help keep the structure rigid} a� �d sheathing (it ties all the rafters together and provides a sur- NOTCH STUDS 3/4� oEEP face for nailing t`�e shingles). Trusses, which may be used instead of rafters, - FoR �Er-iN sRacE- incorporate all ?hese components except the sheathing. SIZE TO FIT SNUG DOUBLE 2 X 4 STU� -CORNER POST Rafters vs. Trusses 2 X 4 BLOCKING Trusses can kj� used in place of or in combination with the rafter assemblies in some roofs. -i r+.asses are manufactured off site to your garage specificatians. - 2 X 4 MUDSILL �PRESSURE TREaTEO> When they can 17�� used, they have several advantages over °stick-frame" or t/2" DIA. ANCHOR BOLTS hand built rafter�>: they're strong, relatively fast and easy to erect, can span -wirH�rv,z�oFrHECORNER larger areas withc�ut interior support wails, and fewer trusses may be required because they cG�? be installed at 24 inches on center. Rafters, on the other hand, require a high Isvel of skill. Calculating the exact length and angles for the cuts and fitti �g all of the pieces together is far more difficult than nailing together stud w�,'is. Both rafters ar?� trusses must be made to exact dimensions of your garage. While rafters arE c:�nstructed at the site (where exact dimensions are readily �--- / --- available), trusses are built by the manufacturer from measurements taken after the foundation i�� ;�oured. Delivery time varies but it can take several weeks. In many case�. rafters are less expensive than trusses. However, to make a •� / fair price compa� ison that takes into consideration the various advantages and - -,_ disadvantages �f each, consult with your lumberyard. If you're unsure about �^, your skills or ju�t �vvant to make this praject easier, we recommend yau investr �-' gate the use c�s +r:asses or hire a carpenter to frame the roof for you. �, ,,;� j� ,�� " DETAIL S- TRUSS CONSTRUCTION I� If You Use T�usses �� Follow the mar:ufacturers instruc- rvp�ca�T�uss � ;' r; , � tions for handlin��. installation, and WALL DOUBLE TOP PLATE I ( bracing. To sst r�e trusses, temporariiy na�l � .�veral long � f 2x4s or 2x6s to t�� ,; � � back wall of the � � �1,j ' �. !'�� building so they p��:�- j HURRICANE ANCHOR I ,�� trude well abovE t;12 / (TYPICAL INSTALLATIO � '%� I top plates and hc�h � � enough for the t u�s to rest against. �_____-- These vertica! TvPica� sTUo ' - - � braces must be � `'`�I anchored and 12. Some walls are short enough that the top �\ plate will be one continuous board; long � r � braced from the { � walls will require two or more boards. Any ground. Set the,�!`St tCUSS SILLANCHOR joints in this plate must occur at the center of a stud. flush with the bG�k wall and .�,� ;,rv��ca�_�r,sra��aT�c For these long walls. now would be an appropriate time to install a section temporarily nail t io the uprights. ��,�� ;:. Continue settinetrie trusses in place, ��'� f'a° of the second top plate (to create a double top plate) across any joints in bracin them as ou o. See Detail "S". the to late. See Detail "F". This kee s the wall from flexin as ou g Y g � } �°�POUREO coNCRErE p P � � p g y FOUNDATiON stand it up. The rest of this second plate can be installed from a ladder Shown is an ex�rnple of optional "hurricane after the walls are in place. anchors". Area: tabject to high winds often require 13. With a helper or two, "walk up" each wall frame and lift the unit onto the these fasteners, Your local building department can tell you if these are neces- anchor bolts. Since the anchors alone can't hold the walls in place, nail sary, and which ��ecific model or type meets local requirements. Anchors three 2x4s to the sides of the studs (just below the top plate) - one at each should be instali�� according to the manufacturers instructions. end, the other in the center - to act as temporary bracing. Rest the ends of the bracing on the ground. Tilt the walls out so they're 1 inch out of If You Use R�fters plumb (to make it easier to set the front and back walls in place); then stake The basic ins ructions for building rafter assemblies for a gable roof garage the free ends of the bracing to the ground. Put the washers and nuts on the follow. If you're 4�uilding the optional Tudor roof and/or side shed, refer to the anchor bolts (but don't tighten them). paragraphs discassing each one later in this section for any changes to these instructions. DETAIL L - ROOF CONSTRUCTION �- 2 X 4 WALL TIE ��, `BIRD'S-MOUTH CUT RAFTER TAIL DETAIL M& N- TYPICAL GABLE END " "'�ORNG "� ` OOD SF L RAKE 3AKE BC � RAFTE INUOUS CKING ( (WOOD =RIEZE E E WALL LL SHEF LE TOP _.vlVll"VJI I IVIV JYI1NULtJ 15# FELT 1!2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING COLLAR TIE RIDGE RAFTER 2 X 6 HANGER 2 X 4 X 3' SPLICE BLOCK WITH NAIL� INTO JOIST �Pi ir.F.inisr� 13. Once the sheathing is attached, the fascia boards can be installed. Along the eaves the fascia is set so it continues the plane of the roof sheathing (set a square on top of the roof, protruding over the edge, and adjust the fascia until it just touches the square). Along the gable ends, the top of the rake board should be flush with the top surface of the plywood sheatYiing. NOTE: To protect the sheathing from moisture, install the roofing felt (see next section) as soon as possible. If the sheathing does get wet, let it dry out thor- oughly (at least two days) before putting down the felt. SOFFITS Overhangs along the eaves (the edge of the roof that is level and parallel to the ground) are built into this design. The overhanging soffits consist of framing covered with plywood. (See Detail "O".) Generally, the soffit is installed after the wall sheathing is on, but before the siding is applied. If you are using 4x8 sheets of siding without any sheathing, apply the siding before installing the soffits. DETAIL O- EAVE OVERHANG To install the soffit: 1. Using a 16d nail into each stud, fasten the 2x2 nailer to the wall of RAFTERS @,s° o c the building, level with the horizontal tail cut of the rafter. coMPOS�T�or, sHwc�Es 2. Install the 2x2 "lookouts" between the nailer (two 8d toe nails) ,s# FE�r and each rafter tail (two 8d face nails). These should be level. 1/2" CDX PLYWOOD 3. Rip the soffit plywood to size and nail it 2 x 2"A'�ER in place. Use 4d galvanized box nails, z x 2 �ooKOUr c EACH RnFrER 10 inches on center into the continu �� - ous nailer; 2 into each lookout, and 2 into each rafter tail. If you have installed METAL DRIP EDGE the gable overhangs, apply the soffit ply- wood to them at this time also. 1 x s Fascia ROOF SHINGLES � �AP SIDING 1. Tack the metal drip edge along the eaves using �__ galvanized roofing nails spaced every 12 inches. (See Detail "O".) 3;s° P�vw000 soFFir 2. Cover the sheathing with 15# roofing felt paper. 1 X 2 FRIEZE BD. f the roof and wor Start at the base o k up. Overlap each row by 12 inches. Staple in place every 6 inches along each edge and down the sHEATH�NG middle. z x a sTU�s �,s� c c 3. Tack the metal rake edge along the rakes using galvanized roofing nails spaced 12 inches apart. (See Details "M" and "N".) 4. Install the shingles according to the manufacturers' instructions. Be sure to cut shingles to extend 1/2 inch beyond the rake edge along the rakes and the drip edge along the eaves. DETAIL P - MITERED CORNER ER )NG2X4@45° HEIGHT STUD ILE JACK STUDS :R HEADER LYWOOD SHEATHING IONAL ROLL-UP �GE DOOR 4 MOLD AROUND � OPENING JAMB TRIM - u�+nr�GE DOOR STOP ADJUST TO FIT SNUG TO DOOR SIDING If installing the optional mitered corn�rs at the overhead door, install the 45 degree framing piece by measuring 12 inches each way from the intersection of the header and jack stud. Use two 10d nails at each end of the miter. (See Detail "P".) If you choose plywood or other sheet sidi�ig such as T1-11 ply- wood or tempered hardboard, start your installation where you began your fram- ing layout. (See Detail "R".) Put one sheet against the wall, flush with the end and extending about 1/2 inch below the mudsill. Adjust the location if necessary so that it laps halfway onto the stud. Use a level to plumb the edge of the sheet, and nail it in place using 8d galvanized siding nails spaced every 8 inch- es. Sheet siding generally has overlapping joints; always install the sheets so that the next sheet you add laps over the previous sheet. Then when you nail that sheet in place, don't nail the lapping edge until the next sheet is installed. That way, you can nail through both sheets at once. If you are DETAIL R- PLYWOOD SIDING using siding without overlapping � joints, consider covering the � joints with a 1 x2 "batten" to i keep the weather out. If your y� garage requires more than one �! row of siding, you will need to i�� 2 X 4GABLE WALL STUD install metal "Z" flashing before putting the second row of siding SIDING on. (See Detail "R".) Apply 1 x4 trim over the siding at the METAL "Z" FLASHING corners and a 1 x2 frieze board � at the intersection of the siding wa�� ToP P�nrE and soffit. �; II If you use lap siding, place it �! � � '�; over 1/2 inch sheathing. The I sheathing is installed in the ' same manner as vertical siding. When you install the siding, , work from the bottom to the top i� using chalklines to keep each � 2X4 STUD row straight. Check your work with a level as you progress and make sure the same amount of siding is exposed for each row. The 1x2 frieze board is installed at the underside of the soffit after the sheathing and before the siding. You may elect to use vinyl or me+.a� horizontal siding. The installation process is similar to regular lap siding, and the same quantities would be required. Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully. You may wish to consider hiring a professional siding contractor to do the installation for you. Whatever siding you choose, get professional-looking results by taking the time to install it straight and level. DOORS AND WINDOWS Carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the overhead Y m need to add addi � � h n f n garage door. ou ay tional boards to whic you ca aste door components. The door track requires hangers for support; It is important that the weight of the door and track be carried by the rafters, not the wall ties. However, if you use trusses, the door trc�ck may be hung from the bottom chord of the truss. Should you decide to install the optional personnel door and/or window, the siding option you choose determines when they are installed. Consult with your lumberyard or the door and/or window manufacturers for installation instruc- tions. For plywood or other sheet siding, they're typically installed after the sid- ing is in place. The brick mold trim around the opening is then installed over the siding. For horizontal lap siding, the window or door and it's trim are installed after the sheathing is applied but before the siding is put on so that the siding butts into the trim. FINISHING WORK After doors and windows are installed, be sure to caulk the joints between siding and trim, and any other exposed joints in the garage. Seal the floor as per the concrete contractor's instructions. Paint, seal or stain the exterior. Install the optional gutter and downspouts. Remember to pitch the gutter slight- ly towards the downspout escape. Have a licensed electrician run power to the garage and install interior and exterior lights and outlets. 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